Thank you - THANK YOU, your great video saved me a lot of time. If you view GE's repair guide I would almost disassembled the entire washing machine. The new gearbox didn't have the mounting holes for the shield by the motor, possibly a change in the gearbox housing style - or the forgot to create the screw holes in mine! Once again, thx!
Utterly wonderful and thank you for going out of your way making a video of it. ( Oh before I forget, there is no "brake assembly" on this, just what they call "Gearcase"). while you simply laid the whole machine on its side and even keeping the suspension in place, I place the whole basket on its head. Me being an ambitious nut ( even in my old age) I take the gearcase apart and replace the bearing and the seal, a $20 value and a bunch of work as you can imagine. :-)
@@frenchonion4595 I don't think you will find anyone on RU-vid that will go that far to do what I have. Then again I have done all kinds of other things that no one does either. I am more into fixing things than replacing them. And for a reason and it is not economics either, although of course you save money in exchange for your time plus extra extra time to figure things out as there are no "corporate instruction" due to intellectual property rights........ I repair door lock switches, clutch actuators, suspensions and trace problems with control boards. I modify some machines so they work better but that is another story. There are other hidden problems that most people have no clue about at all. And the experts , so called experts are parts changers. They have no clues about what is really going on. You see, you realize that there is no parts listing...( of course not), for the bearings and the seals. Why? They make more money selling you the whole thing. Plus they pay them chinese folks nickle and dime making the machines. But you have to realize that a bearing is a bearing. A bearing is not some unique breed, some especialty item. That would be like saying a tire is a specialty item. It is not. Neither is sealing. A bearing is recognized by three numbers. inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness. That is it. And so is the sealing. Are you sure you want to get miserable and go that far and taking the crap apart? ( I do things for spite. I do things to remove the cobweb out of my eyes. I go to the point that I make the transmission). I find it criminal that a person has to spend from $40 to $100 replacing the suspension rods or the front loaders suspension struts, seeing that it can be repaired actually free. While the monkey see monkey do experts are experts at how to remove some bolts and install another one and walk around beating their chest like you know..... grape..... It appears that you are not concerned about doing what it takes to take the so called gearbox ( I call it a tin can box. It really is) apart but you are wondering where to get the bearings and what is involved in removing them? Is that really the case? ( And there is another thing, not a big deal for me... you can find the seal and the bearing but there is a race you can not find but you can make your own. The race sits right above the top bearing and basically it is there so the seal has a smooth surface to ride on. The seal can not ride on the transmission outer shaft housing. It is not smooth enough.) If you want to do all this. I will tell you the detail and will save you a lot of suffering.
@@alchemy1 . I know you can go on McMaster Carr etc and find the bearing's etc i was just wondering if there was a kit etc but yeah it was stupid question considering the thing is spot welded together also time is an issue. I don't know if you have a lady in the house, but it doesn't take long to feel the wraith if they don't have a washer running
@@frenchonion4595 There is no welding going on there. Just rivets. Drill them out and then install simple little screws, lock washers and nuts. The bottom bearing hardly is the issue. It is the top one that takes on a beating due to seal leak. All these type of washing machines are of the same type. They all have the same size bearing and seal. I have a bunch of these already fixed up. There are 3 Maytag/whrilpool/Kenmore/Amana type. And one General Electric. There are only two types, GE and the others. The only difference between the two is just the bolt pattern and look of the casing. If I remember right, the GE has more robust gear mechanism itself. But nothing goes wrong with them anyway. GE doesn't leak oil and the others do so you have to do more with the others, the whirlpool types. With them I drain their oil completely by unbolting that gear can. Then I just pump suspension grease instead. And that ends that nonsense. I no longer mess with these things. I was doing it just for experience. I got bored after 3 years. Now I have these left over stuff all over which I am about to take them to the dump.
How do you know if the transmission is failing? What happens is that I changed the actuator and the capacitor on my washing machine and it continues to fail, it thunders like a plane taking off and stops and gets stuck in spin mode.
How do you know if it's the transmission that is broken? My GE is just like this one and the agitator doesn't work. How can I tell if I need a new agitator or transmission?
Engineered Obelesence by GE. Shame on GE for making JUNK transmissions. Im on second GE washer. Hope it last longer than first one. Thank you for video, im gonna try to fix my broken one. Great video.
I have the exact model machine spinning not agitating. Made a loud noise 1 time nothing there after. There is also a huge displacement of oil under the machine.
Tengo una igual , el Clutch está gastado y también el drive pulley , suena fuerte mientras da vuelta , puedo cambiar el clutch oh necesito toda la transmisión
Tengo una igual , el Clutch está gastado y también el drive pulley , sueña fuerte mientras da vuelta , puedo cambiar el clutch oh necesito toda la transmisión
If it's only when agitating and not when the basket is spinning, it's most likely a worn out or broken clutch. Those are fairly cheap and can be replaced during this procedure.
I hope someone can help me. I have a washer that I am unable to turn the coupler on the transmission clockwise it will only turn counter clockwise BUT with motor and transmission out of washer both spin freely. Since I am currently unemployed I have to determine if its the transmission or something like the brakes dragging or basket drive assembly. i noticed the cam has no play outside the washer but while turning the basket drive assembly counterclockwise to get it back up into the washer it is difficult maybe its supposed to be? Also once in the washer there is alot of play in cam. One other thing I noticed was once the transmission was in the coupler would spin clockwise a little bit but not enough to turn the tub then I would hear a click and it wouldnt turn anymore and it never turned far enough for the tub to spin. Is that click something locking up with the brakes or in the transmission? i disassembled the brakes took of the spring to make sure they move freely. There was no play in the brakes so they seem okay to someone who doesnt know what they are supposed to feel like. Also we replaced the transmission fluid with 90 wt. Ugh someone please help we have been watching videos and searching the internet for a week. We replaced the capacitor before figuring out it was bound up somehow. thanks in advance for any help you can give.
