Generator Engine Rebuild (Take 2) - 10HP Briggs and Stratton 

Your trick of the wet sandpaper and rope to polish the crank's rod journal is quite clever (and effective). I've not seen it done quite like that, and definitely will remember that. Thanks for another great video! Be well, stay safe and God bless. Rev. D.

Great video. One trick taught to me 50 years ago is to use a 1/2 impact gun/socket in reverse to remove the flywheel nut. Alters the polar moment of inertia required such that you don't even have to hold the flywheel with your left hand with the impact in the right hand. Takes less than a second. No need for ratchet strap. The nut spins right off, but the flywheel doesn't rotate. You won't believe it, but its true. Great also for removing nuts on alternator pulleys, power steering pulleys etc. Kind regards, Craig

Good morning James buddy.. watching with a mug of coffee

I've been following you for several months and find your methods very instructional. I also appreciate your honesty and determination to provide your customers a fair shake. You are a credit to your profession or hobby in small engine repair. I learn something every session.

I appreciate you going back and finding the noise inside the 10hp engine. That is a sign of a man who hungers for knowledge. Watching you trouble shoot problems teaches me alot about engines. You do fine work.

For as much as you were charged for that crankshaft I would have called and let them know about it there shouldn't have been so much crap on it. But you have taken things from the dead and revived them. Thanks for sharing your video with us, Ed

Ok, so you gave me the bug. I went out and bought an abused basket case. You perfectly cover all of what I have run into so far in several of your videos. But….I think I may have a symptom I haven’t seen covered by you yet. This one has a stuck governor shaft. If I can’t use Blaster to free it up I guess I’ll have to split the engine to get at it. Furthermore while pulling it over with the head off I think I may be hearing a knock from the rod journal. So thankfully you have covered all this and I have watched and learned. I may have bought a bucket of bolts but you have to start somewhere. Thank you for making such clear and well edited videos.

Fantastic job of diagnosing the parts that would work and those that wouldn't. Very surprised at the crappy condition of the new crank. Thanks for the video.

Nice job again! Can't believe it started on the first pull. 👍👍👍

Persistence paid off, another good sounding engine Doc.

Years ago, I was tasked to determine why aircraft mechanics were breaking helicopter engine to rotor driveline bolts upon installation. When you install a bolt, the critical parameter isn't torque, but the bolt "pre-load" or better said, clamping force from the bolt. Torque is a just an easy way of measuring bolt pre-load or clamping force. What I determined, by the review of literature as well as laboratory testing, is that torque as a measure of pre-load is accurate to about plus or minus 50 percent. Especially when you compare dry, clean threads versus threads with oil or lubricant on them. In my case, if I had a minimum-acceptable strength bolt, with threads that were not perfectly clean and contaminated with oil, threads that were cut versus rolled, and a torque wrench that was at the high end of calibration, a mechanic applying the proper torque could break a driveline bolt! So I'm not surprised that you have seen wide-variation in torque specs on the same bolt in the same engine across different sources of service information. That said, I do feel that using a torque wrench is important and I applaud your rigorous use of a torque wrench in your videos. Not to get the exact amount of pre-load, but to get an equal amount of pre-load. For the engine cover, 100 lb-ft versus 200 lb-ft likely doesn't make much difference. What would be a problem is if you tightened one to say, 25 lb-ft, and others to 300 lb-ft. :) Really enjoy your videos! To close the loop on my story, we ended up raising the minimum strength of the bolts and the breaking stopped. :)

Ciao James, ottimo sistema per carteggiare l'albero motore; ho imparato date un'altra cosa interessante! Grazie!

14:10 I'd still use that crank to be honest. It's within the tolerance of most calipers and the one spot under spec is fairly small. It's worn, but still useable.

Nice job. I like your honesty deciding to change the crank. One person commented the crank was a knock off. Based on the way it was shipped and minor flaws it’s possible. Nothing is straightforward any more.

Those storm responders need to have a low oil shut off. I'd rather deal with a faulty oil level switch than a engine replacement.

Excellent rebuild..i like the way you torq the bolts in the critical areas..the generator you put that motor on should be fine.. See you on the next one..Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

Good morning James. Another engine to use for another powerhead.

You done a great job of teaching If they don’t get it then it’s not there thing to do 😊😊😊

Wow...the bean counters demanded.."no bag around the crank before boxing!!" Save that 2 cents!! But hey..it's a lawn mower part, not a space shuttle part :) ( As another of our favorite youtubers would say! )

Best I can figure is there must be some subliminal messages in these videos that say: "You must watch all Condon videos, You must watch all Condon videos...". I say that because there is no way I'm ever going to do most of the stuff you do but I am totally addicted to watching every one of your vids. You really do make it look like I could do it. But, my wife would disagree. And, to be honest, so do I. Can't wait for your next...wait...hmm. Is my brain being manipulated?

James, enjoy your videos. Did you happen to measure the new crankshaft journal to see how the original dimensions compare to specs ? Thanks for all the time you spend creating top quality videos.

James I did have the same same concern about the muriatic acid my concern was that I was hoping you were wearing a breathing protector it can cause inseparable damaged to you smelling and to your lungs just wear protective gear and don't spill it, or get it on you.

James rubber hose on piston rod bolts would protect cylinder and crank from scratches

For future reference, if you need lye in an easy to use container., Most oven cleaners that say to not to expose yourself to the fumes, contain lye, and it’s a spray.

Good to see someone doing it the right way instead of that will do great job James 👍👍 i learnt a lot

It appears the lack of mechanical savy is not compatible with owning a generator. "Check the oil pudden head!" Congrats on your new strap wrench which you will use often, even when tightening the flywheel. Hydrochloric acid and aluminum react to produce aluminum chloride and colorless hydrogen gas so to be safe, do it outside. Love the trick of wrapping some heavy string around the emery paper. :-)

James a quick question, is it still profitable on this rebuild between the parts and your time...or is this more a hobby...I enjoy your content

We tore down a brand New b/s 7.25 the other day just to mic every thing Very surprised that 3 items were out of b/S specks You should do the same and show people the truth

Very nice work, and I always pick up some useful tips along the way. Thanks!

very helpful vid as uasuale James thanks Bill

Comstar 99% pure lye on Amazon. Also, would you consider using Sealed Power Plastigage , there are several clearance ranges, to measure bearing to shaft journal clearances? Also found on Amazon. Thanks, love your videos!

IT'S NOT THE SPACE SHUTTLE!

Good Build, thanks for the video James.

All those engines look fairly new why were they out of oil and if I would have received the crankshaft from Briggs & Stratton that looked like that I would have been making some phone calls.... Anyway instead of rebuilding I would have bought another engine.. that's me time saving... Great video thanks

Nicks and scratches are ok as long as you knock off the high spots with a file. VERY CAREFULLY !!! What's more important is the clearances,

FYI Drano drain cleaner is Sodium Hydroxide.

just an Idea, maybe on a bad block you can experiment with a low oil shutoff addition.

If you’d ordered the crankshaft straight from Briggs, it probably would not have been in that dirty condition . How long had it set on Amazon‘s warehouse shelf though?

Seems the cranks are at the limit to start with, had one 10 with only 2 hours and crank was out of specks

The out of spec cranks could be made to work with oversized bearings or shims, assuming the cranks were still mostly round. Shims would be less desirable because they cause other problems.

Have you ever considered putting one of the Harbor Freight Honda closes on one of these generators. May be too expensive?

Very neat work🎉🎉🎉

Jim, thanks for including the torque settings in the video. Question: did you decide against getting a hydraulic lift table? Just curious. Nest regards. Jim.

Did you put the governor gear in I didn't see that that's a very important piece of the operation of that engine?

Funny if the one you just picked up has a good crank.

Another homerun James!

Did you check out the option of getting the cranks polished or cut and buying a oversized connecting rod ?

Could you have the crankshaft turned and use an oversized bearing like what is done on car engines.

Good morning James! Getting my day going here in Louisiana and I’m watching this video. I actually dropped your name in my latest video last Sunday. Don’t forget to like and subscribe! You, Bruce Pender, and Kens small engines are my personal favorites. There are many others as well, but dude, to be in the top 3!

Mr. James. Good Afternoon?, I like to see how you rebuilt. All those broken generators, but I had a storm responder that is broken. The Connecting Rod. Scrambled And apart of the block Burst out can you help me Replace the block please

Nice video. Learned a lot👍👍👍

The assembly lube looks like a super slick product. How might it be used for other than assembly?

another great video, thanks

16:55......Maybe that was last crankshaft before production line shutdown for good, n QC already closed shop the week before. 😳🙈🤦‍♂️🤑

Most machine shops will regrind those crankshafts for a small fee , but can you get undersize bearings/connecting rods for the motors , if not the machine shop can undersize the connecting rods for you , anyway some machine shops can grind the crankshafts for you !!!!

that one from amazom is uesed i can tell. or it sat in a cold warehouse, & got wet from being cold.

On the edge of my seat, spilled hot coffee in my lap.....didn't notice, finally saw n heard engine run.....anybody got a cigarette? 🤤😈😋😉

Can't you get the cranks re-ground and oversize bearing shells?

Thanks james 😊👍

Did the connecting rod have any problems with the out of spec crank knocking it around?

How governor works to keep steady speed , I mean how it’s connected inside ?

"Sodium-hydroxide" is also know as "caustic soda". It is used by mechanical/engiine/automotive shops to clean FERROUS type parts. NOT ALUMINUM.

James I have a 10 hp 305 cc 14.50 briggs and stratton, it goes on a 145 hobart welder. I replaced the worn cam, but it spuders when there is no load. Once you place a load or weld it runs with no sputtering. I have placed 3 new carbs aftermarket and all of them do the same. Can you please help. The carbs are Nikki carbs, and seems to run a little bit rich. Mario

James I know you’re a very busy person and you’re very popular on RU-vid I am having a very big problem right now with a generator and I was wondering if I could ask you a question

greetings from a fellow small engine lover. wow on the price of the crank.. is a short block available for that application? by the time you get done with crank, rod, piston w/rings, gaskets etc what would be the difference in price?

you don't happen to be in the Virginia area? Im setting up a professional shop, and finally geting to rebuilding some backlog of Briggs motors. would love to help if i could.

Can't find oven cleaner? Because most people have self cleaning ovens. If they use ovens at all.

You used to be able to buy oversize connecting rods for undersized cranks so they could be turned down is that still a thing?

The acid will eat the steel the lye won't. Did you look for draino?

Seems like you get a lot of those Storm Responders for repair. Is it because of owner neglect or poor quality in your opinion? Running out of oil is pure owner neglect. Drano (and probably other brands) clog remover for sink drains has its main ingredient is also lye (sodium hydroxide). It may be a stronger solution than oven cleaner.

when will thy ever learn to use bearings? How much more would it cost ?50 cents?

Try to buy toilet bowl cleaner with hydrogen chloride like the works. There taking it off the shelves along with oven cleaner. Stuff that removes lime. EPA says its bad. So if you want to clean anything your going to need to make your own.. Just Cleaned my toilet with a small amount of muriatic acid.

is there not a mechanical governor running of the cam on these ?

hello James, on this engine the play is not significant : you'll never experiment a oil pressure fail, coz' there is no oil pump, so no oil pressure. this engine will run for "a long life" with a missing thou on the diameter of the crank or on the cam shaft IF the OIL LEVEL is correct, and if the oil is CLEAN, coz' no oil filter, it's very important, far more than a thou. specs are for a new one, if not in, you can get an another for free. use a torx when you adjust the valve clearence.

Isnt it cheaper to buy a "predator" engine from home depot? Do they fit?

nice

I was taught to ALWAYS check the oil every time you start a small motor. But people are stupid! I used to work in a Lowes Inside Lawn & Garden Dept. Had a guy bring back a new mower that would not start.. I checked it and found he had filled the gas tank with motor oil and the crankcase with gas. You can't make this stuff up!

What's the problem with so many B&S engines. Is it a common problem, or is it a user problem. If it's a design problem, is this one of the reasons B&S is out of business now?

Where are you getting all those generators from And what is compression relief on engine like that

I didn't see you clean out the oil drain passages. Chunks could be hiding in there...

I have used a wire-wheel to clean the crank.

Wonder why these motors use oil ? I have a generac gn 220 , bought it new in 2004 , never had to add oil ! I guess u get what u pay for !

Stop going 2 banana sandwich on that torque wrench. One inch pounds,40 foot pounds who cares. Just tighten em n move on. It's a freakin small engine!!!

What kind of idiot lets an engine run out of oil? where did the oil go? do these chinese engines burn a lot of oil?

I like your sanding method.on the crank shaft journal you got the skills to make a engine out many broke one,s

I was really hoping that you measured the NEW Crank too....so that we could see the difference.

Purrs like a kitten. I really needed a generator here in Texas!

On the connecting rod journal, I would have checked with Plastigage to obtain the clearance. Cheap and easy to use to determine if you are within tolerance. Also, I believe that the rod is linebored when manufactured and direction of the cap is only one way or the tolerance will be off.

Sir: I am impressed with your logic and trouble shooting . Wish your were a auto shop teacher when I was in school.your a great teacher. I did feel a need to mention two things 1. Back in 1955 chevrolet came out with insert rod bearings Before that old motor manuals showed how to grind, file, sand caps and shim rod to crank for proper clearances. My dad use to fit by feel then we used plastic gauge when it came out. The pressure is on the top and bottom of rod not as much on the sides where the bolts are. Also being oil drip / splash lubrication it actually let's more oil in. This technique always worked for us especially when the engines were not that far out of the spec .by 001 to .003 curing the knock. Of course this was for the old two and a half to three and a half horsepower motors. Bottom line they ran for hundreds of hours afterwards. We put a lot of these mix and match left over used parts motors together for gardeners. 2. We always would use sand paper ( 600 to 1,500 grit ) on a machined flat surface to lap in block and heads surfaces to show and remove warpage and low spots as we only had wire brushes and gasket scrapers which removed more than just gasket material ( softer aluminum back then ? ) Which would lead to head gaskets leaking / blowing after only a few hours ( 20 plus). Not criticism just old school to save a buck and use all the life possible out of engine. Mike

James, its sad that you had to buy a new crankshaft and it gets shipped in the condition that it was! That should of had all the machined surfaces protected with a rust preventive and packaged to prevent damage. Great rebuild! I wonder if those used cranks were out of spec from the factory. Conflicting briggs specs from the paperwork would make me nervous. 👍🇺🇸Roger

SOOOOO much better workmanship than what passes for "Factory Refurbished" nowadays !!!

Never buy engine parts from Amazon .There small engine suppliers with the same parts cheaper cost better quality.

That new crankshaft should have been dipped or sprayed with cos moline before packing. Maybe even have one of those plastic mesh screens put over part of it.

Guys this is basically, in a nutshell, for most of us tinkerers, the best OJT / hands-on learning videos along with Ken's channel. What more could you ask for than kicking back in a recliner with hot coffee and never get your hands dirty......or a back ache. Eventually I'm gonna bi*ch enough that James will get a lift table.

Great video James - as always. Now know where to go if I get my hands on a blown engine. Thanks

Without high dollar precision measuring tools, a second option is to torque the connecting rod to the crank with plasti guage and measure that with the cheap cardboard guage that comes with it and you will know if you have proper clearance

I've used cranks farther out than yours. Just run a heavier oil and let it rip. I never had one blow up because of a galled crank. Everyone knows that the lack of oil kills these engines. And by the way. By sending information out like you've got on clearances, I wonder if the people producing small engine performance sheets are building satellite parts?

What makes these engines run out of oil? just acquired one of these used and it runs like a champ. It is an 18-year-old Generac when it was owned by Briggs so it has this engine and the same set up. I’ve run it quite a bit since I changed the oil and restored it, it had a bad carburetor, and I had to flash the generator. But mine does not seem to use oil. In fact, it doesn’t smoke or anything. I know it’s typical for most engines to use just a little bit of oil unless it’s like a Honda or something but I do keep a close check on my engines and don’t let them run out of oil.

Out of curiosity, did you measure the new crank and confirm the Briggs book wasn’t over optimistic?

Straight ammonia takes a bit longer, but it eats the hell out of soft metals. It's used in some of the more rugged firearm bore solvents to remove lead and copper fouling. Make sure you don't breathe it.