Get The Smoothest Guitar Neck Ever With This Oil & Wax Treatment! 

Wow, looks great! Thanks Tony 😊

thank you so much! I now have enough confident to try it out myself. Greetings!

Super Nice 👍 I’m definitely going to do one! Thanks Tony

Great job

I sit here with a brand new unfinished neck and followed your instructions. The result is perfect, thanks for sharing!!

Great job! Thx!

fantastic - i have an old j45 neck that i tried this on. sanded to 600 and followed your steps. Worked great - pleasantly quick process. Thanks!

Thanks, I was looking for someone just using one coat. I like as close to natural as possible.

It is a great idea. It looks great there is no question it enhances tone. No paint or chemicals to deal with where screw ups can be very painful. You can safely clean it off maybe once a year and give it a fresh coat. Thanx

Great channel and info my friend. :)

Looks great. If I ever do a Tele I’m gonna do this.

Looks good to me! Have you ever tried Crystlac Brite Tone mat finish? It's unbelievable finish however it takes more time and drying between coats but so smooth and slick when it's done

Great stuff. You are the only guy who made this process: simple & easy to digest. Too many people on here making it like Brain Surgery. Neck looks silky-Smooth.

Thanks

Great job Tony. Thank you for sharing the process.

Great video! Can confirm this is a quick and simple way to get a superior neck finish! Thanks Tony!

Tony…great stuff…I like what you said about paper towels being a fine grit sand paper…I’ve done the same with newspaper in these situations…I bet that neck feels amazing 👍

Wax on, wax off. Got it. Thank you Sensei.

спасибо!!!классно!!!

I used "Monty's Instrument Food" (essentially an expensive version of beeswax) on my Strat neck, but it was just so-so - I've gone back to using cheap multipurpose furniture polish - slick. ;)

If you want to speed up drying, add a few drops of Japan drier to the Tru Oil. The naphtha in the Japan solvent will dramatically speed up dry time. Another great finish for necks, IMO, is boiled linseed oil. Thanks for the great video.

Nice! Is it possible to apply the wax on a stained and sealed body? I would like to build an SG kit and I like the feel of bare wood. My idea was to first apply a black filler (to fill the pores and raise up the grain figure), then apply a vintage cherry stain. Instead of then apply a lacquer, could I put wax on? Thanks!

wow, that is exactly what I was looking for to make mu necks as similar as my sterling and Music Man guitar necks.. can really be so similar?

I have a couple of ultra thin coats of rub on poly followed by feed and wax. Not sure if I have enough protection on the neck. Can I go over that with a thin coat of true oil or should I first sand off the existing?

I also have a really dry rosewood finger board on a cheap chinese P bass ( probably not real rosewood but its not bleeding dye into the applicator cloth).I applied boiled linseed oil several thin coats. Can I do a final application with True oil?

I have several guitars. I do like the feel of the neck of the guitars with a wooden neck. For some reason, my hand doesn't flow as smooth and fast on glossy finished necks (compared to wooden necks). Any suggestion what I can do on the guitars with the glossy finish?

Great video ! What do you do for the fingerboard ? What would you do for a raw maple fretboard ? Thanks

Pro tip. If you don't want to buy tru oil, or just want to get custom with it, you can just mix your own finish with urethane, tung or boiled linseed, and thin with spirits for hand rubbing. Really, you can just mix any concoction you want out of oil based coatings. That's all these premade ones are.

Maybe I missed it in the video but what grit did you send the neck to before you started?

Great vid , like my music man .. any input on removing poli ?

Thank you for the tip, the Maple neck i have including the fretboard is untreated, could i also use the Tru-Oil and wax on the Fretboard (again Maple untreated) as well?

Should I stain my one piece raw maple neck before using Tru Oil?

Just did it on a new bass with unfinished maple neck, came out great than

Hi Tony, can you put the wax on a maple fretboard the way you have on the back of your tele neck to give it some protection? Many thanks in advance, Mark

I notice the fret tangs/nibs aren't visible on the side of the fretboard. Does this neck have black binding?

What do you think regarding the application of the feed and wax in general (not only on the neck) on satin finishes?

Looks great Tony! I also use Howards Feed & Wax exclusively on my guitars. Does wonders for the fret board.

Interesting. I have a couple of Charvel guitars (Skatecaster, Desolation) that have an oiled finish mahogany necks, but I'm not sure of how to clean them and restore the smoothness they had since I've had them for a while, and I'm not sure how different they would react compared to other woods. Do you have any advice?

Would I be able to sand down a Squier CV entirely (neck and body) and then treat it like this? Or would you advise against that idea? Thanks for the thourough info. Take care

Can I do this without removing neck from body or does the heal need to be done also

I’ve wood stained my neck red and then used 5 coats of tru oil.. problem is my thumb turns red when I play. Do you think this wax would seal it? Thanks man

Can i use any wax? i just remove some old poly from a guitar neck still has some orignal paint but there is some maple showing after i sanded of the loose poly do i need to wax or oil?

The feed n wax is good for the fretboard? Is it rosewood or ebony?

Is the wax required? I passed the oil and let it dry should i still apply the oil?noe thst the oil is dry still ok tk add the wax

Tony what neck is that? I like the profile. I guess is like MM Axis.

how about the fretboard itself? Thanks!

Is this better then satin lacquer? And will it protect the wood from absorbing moisture real good?

I'll bet going with a thin satin finish will give you better tone than a thick heavy finish. Looks great Tony 👍. Can't wait to hear your guitar when it's done.

hi, so i recently got an unfinished neck from warmoth, & i want to do this exact method! that being said, the unfinished neck is an insanely pale, almost white maple on the back side, & it’s pretty ugly. will the oil/wax treatment stain it at all to make it just a bit darker?

Could this method be used successfully on an entire unfinished guitar body? Would only one coat of Truoil provide lasting protection?

If I was going to apply a headstock decal, should I do that prior to this?

Does tru oil work well if you stain your neck first?

Have you tried applying oil with steel wool method?

I think that to use wax is completely not necessary because it will come off after few sessions anyway, I apply the Tru-oil only, however I use few coats It stays put for years undisturbed.

I've done handful of kit and scratch builds and I've almost exclusively work with truoil. But by no means does that make me an expert, but with only 1 coat of truoil I don't think it's doing much other than just absorbing into the wood. I would bet that if you just did the wax finish it would probably be indistinguishable from a neck with 1 coat of truoil. One recommendation however would be the thin the truoil with naptha or in my case lighter fluid (I live in a state where I can't legally buy actual naptha). Thanks for the video, I do close to a dozen coats of truoil, than do what I refer to an oil sand with truoil and 1500 grit sandpaper to level out and knock back the gloss, than apply renaissance wax for that silky smooth finish and a deep oiled wood look

More cool stuff I can do to my guitar and possibly ruin it oh well it was 200$ so what do I have to loose

1 coat (wiped off) of Tru-Oil then a thin coat of Feed'n'Wax... that can't protect the neck very much, can it? Might feel good, but how is it in a month? Do you need to reapply?

Can u put this on nitro to darken the maple?

Did I misunderstand, or did you say you waxed it first, then put on the Tru-Oil? That's backward... you don't want the wax on there when you put on the oil. If there is wax on it, remove it, then apply the oil. Any wax on there first will prevent (or at least reduce) the oil from absorbing into the wood, which you want. I think this is what you did probably, but the way you said it, it sounded like you still had wax on it when you applied the oil. I love oil on necks. I have used Tung Oil or sometimes BLO, followed by wax after really thorough drying, in addition to TruOil.

I use the blood of my victims…

Oiling wood, there is a process. You oil it every day for one week. After that you oil it once a week for a month, after that you oil it once a month for a year. After that you oil the wood annually. This should be common knowledge but I can see some of your fathers have failed you.