Get your parts to run true in a non adjustable chuck. YOU MUST WATCH THIS! 

Its a good solid band aid for getting past a problem.

Finally, another real machinist commenting! Someone whos mind is open to alternative ways to solve problems. You're a wise man Bill - you are aware you don't know everything and can learn from everyone.

There are several old tricks that can make one's life much easier if the old timer will teach you.

Thanks John. I bet all of our backgrounds have given us opportunities to come up with tricks we could all appreciate.

Agreed.

Thanks for watching.

I keep that little vise on my welding table and grab it for stuff like this. Works well.

Happy to share it.

Thanks for that. Drive safe!

Thank you for seeing the value in this.

Abso-bloomin-lutely.

If you dont understand why and what happened to make the spin true you shouldnt be touching any machine

Outstanding. If you don't understand something, or just have a question, feel free to ask.

@@joepie221 Thank you so much Joe. I am going to try and weld two axles together. I'm on a few Face Book pages of awesome communities. My Dad is so happy to see the Village is raising me. And now you are part of my village too. I have to have my lathe centered. I will e mail you a link and show you what I have. I think there's a chance, it has the adjustable screws for me to center it. It's a wonderful machine that my Dad inherited from a great family. Dad says it has the good spirit of the Russian immigrant that once owned it. Looking forward to showing this to you and maybe if you like , you can make a video about it. Thank you Joe.

@@JamesDoylesGarage Hey James I hope your lathe is producing good results and you are enjoying using and learning on such a wonderful thing. Wish I had access to a lathe when I was 14!

@@martinda7446 Hi Martin, I'm juggling so many things to learn. Today I was fitting a Cadillac Control arm into a Blazer \ S10 knuckle. Still have to take what Joe's taught me and put it to use as I just picked up the metal I need this past Friday. Come and hang out with me on my FB page. James Doyle Longevity. Take care.

@@JamesDoylesGarage Fantastic. That is what we want to hear. Outstanding.

Yup. Lots of people bitching about this needlessly. 'waste of time!" "Buy soft jaws!" "Buy a better chuck!" "Buy a better lathe since yours is obviously shit if there's that much run-out!" I just don't get people's tendency to poo-poo on good workarounds for the times you're in a tight spot and so against clever solutions. that's truly the essence of machining - creative solutions to problems. Anyone can flip a switch and turn a wheel. It's the setup and technique that makes the machinist.

@cjhills how bout those of us that don't have a collet chuck? How bout when you don't have the specific collet on hand and are in a pinch and can't order one fast enough? It has nothing to do with money or the price of a collet. This is a clever solution to a real potential shop problem. Not everyone has the luxury of having ample time to buy a collet for an operation when it comes up.

This is where 5C machinable soft collets come in handy.

Awesome, thank you! I hope you visit again.

Thank you for your comment and subscription. I hope you enjoy the channel. The steam engine series has some good content as well.

@@joepie221 yes, i'm about to start watching the steam engine series.

@@miningwayne935 If all goes well, that little steam engine will power the mini lathe.

@@joepie221 that would be so cool! Can't wait to see the lathe running!

Cal30m1 Is correct , after high school in late 1970s worked in machine shop , superior air products ,Sayreville NJ ,we made brass collets to compensate our very worn old three jaws , a large brass collet was used to hold hex stock ,preventing damage to stock being machined .

Agreed. These collars are also good for spreading surface pressure out on thinner or flexible parts.

Thank you.

Thanks John. This is a very important step in making a quality part.

Hi Dan. I see many of our internet guys run the spindle with a chuck without a part in it. The scroll is a ring with a helical groove in it that sits freely in the chuck body. There is nothing to stop it from spinning at a different rate than the spindle if there is no load on it. Take all your jaws out some day and start and stop your machine. This scroll has a mind of its own and could easily launch or trap the chuck jaws causing injury or damage. Its just not a good practice to spin an empty chuck. Good question.

I was wondering that too. Thanks for the clarification.

Thanks for taking time to explain. Dan Bentler.

Thank you. I give it my best effort.

Glad you enjoy it!

That was my first thought was how to do this to perfect my barrel turning.

Thanks for watching.

So glad I saw your comment, I thought exactly that but as I'm new to machining I went with it.........glad I did,all these little tricks, great. Also why are people mentioning collets surely if your chucks off (centre)then so will the collet (centre)? Just found your channel....subbed.thanks

@@rolandsmith2141 Collets rely on the machine's ground nose taper and the chuck is usually dependent on an adapter. You can have precise collet performance with a poor chuck.

Thanks for watching and commenting. I can do it much faster when I don't have to narrate or film it. 5-10 minutes.

Good I tought I invented that threading away from the shoulder but I geuss they been doing it that way for a while.I've got a cheapo lathe so I've got to use some tricks like that too. you've been doing this for years I can tell. thanks for sharing cause in my opinion its a pull yourself up by your bootstraps economy but when was it not people can learn a lot from you that's valuable to your fellow Americans and the world sorry for the ramling on but ya thanks

You still got it kid!

And also never use the term "unloosen" ;-)

Sorry Keith. I was the math and science parent. English was my wife's department. I will be more aware of that. Thanks for the comment.

Done. Thanks for watching.

Joe Pieczynski No harm, I was just ribbing you. I find various words like that funny. My wife and I keep quite a list, that one was on there from years ago. Keep up the good work.

You actually had me thinking about that last night. The word is a total contradiction, but soooo many people use it. Great comment.

unloose. verb. To free from ties or fasteners: disengage, loose, loosen, slip, unbind, unclasp, undo, unfasten, unloosen, untie.

The title of this video says it all. Companies and people with time and money may make different choices.

I use my “junk” chuck that I replaced because of runout in my cnc mill next to 4 vices and leave it set up for g59

This is a quick fix and a good way to also hold a part with a sensitive finish or irregular profile. I have dozens of these laying around. Takes 5 minutes to make. Not sure about the "no work" comment. This works for many different situations.

Joe Pieczynski like u said if you need it and you don't have it, make it!! If you can't wait or can't afford a real collet set. But my comment was meant for those machinists who can just sit around and make collets all day not the ones who use them for making money due to them needing it.

Everybody works the way they are comfortable doing, but I have to comment on your suggestions. Only if the tip of the file comes in contact with the jaws is there a potential for it to launch into your chest. Otherwise, it just bounces around and doesn't do anything. Chances are, if the file hits the jaws, it abruptly scares the shit out of you, and you naturally pull away. Working on the top of your work piece keeps the file in the rejection zone, to place anything under a spinning part is a really bad idea. Plus, it usually translates to only one hand on the file. As for shutting the machine off every tool change, thats a good way to burn up your machine or get fired. Back the carriage away to a safe distance away from a spinning chuck and use tool post knobs on your blocks for a better grip. I agree machinery has no conscience and only the operator is responsible for their own safety.

billsixx ,bill just use common sense ,as a machinist you should alwAys know what can happen,I've been a machinist for many years ,never been hurt never really screwed up,if you have to turn off the spindle just to change the tool ,then it sounds like your pretty careless,you must make alot of little stupid mistakes,professionals like me and this guy in this video ,rarely make mistakes we rarely do stupid shit like dropping a tool into the spindle,if your that careless you shouldn't be around this type of machinery

Joe Pieczynski ,bill six doesn't have any hands on experience,he's one of them guys that paid a fortune for schooling in this industry,but he's just speaking from what he learned in school,if hes that careless ,where he has to turn off the spindle ,he needs to find a new trade.

I was a shop junkie in school. I was very fortunate to attend middle and high schools that had fully equipped shops and offered an industrial prep curriculum. Fell in love with the trade from day one.

The machine shop class was part of the Engineering Degree I was pursuing (4 semesters of machine shop) and enjoyed every minute of it. It was a decently equipped shop with only one milling machine. Everything is manual. Got bogged down in university when advanced math came up. Should have concentrated on what we call "Vocational School".

Hey, anybody can do the job with good tools, right? Takes a true craftsman to get it done with whats on hand.

Its a good band aid fix.

Absolutely right. This is very helpful if a large portion of the part is stock diameter, or its a second side op.

Yet, they will be the ones asking 'How'd you do that? " when you are done. This is a rock solid temporary fix to a very frustrating problem.

4 jaw is a pain if your running multi parts back to back. Also some of us use various chucks for different jobs I.e: a 5c collet chuck, backing plate, etc.. and cannot limit ourselves to a single chuck due to the wide variety of parts we make. I have parts you could never make in a 4 jaw.

@@glennedward2201 i guarantee i can make any of your parts in a 4 jaw

SuperAWaC i guarantee you cant and it wouldn’t be prudent to make some of my parts in a 4 jaw. To guarantee something you haven’t a clue about what parts I run is pretentious at best. Glad your such a stellar machinist. Fact of the matter I could probably produce parts twice as fast as the average machinist and we do small run production so yes we use multiple jaw chucks however a 4 jaw adds a significant amount of overall time to dial in the part and that is the point I made. Nothing to do with whether a four jaw or 6 jaw cannot be used however I’d like to see a right angle chucked up in a 4 jaw, lol, good luck. There is no way you can make all of my parts back to back using a 4 jaw and starting with material that is already .0005 in tolerance. You have no extra material so you’d better indicate every time you chuck a part. With 3 jaws I don’t have to do that. Also we’re more apt to use a 5c collet before a 4 jaw and I will take that for repeatability any day over a 4 jaw as well it results in quick changeovers and speedy production. I’ve had machinists with a so-called 30years come in and chuck up 4 jaws to turn around and have to pull it for parts that won’t center due to geometry that doesn’t work with 4 jaws. Then I watch them spend an 8 hour shift making an $85 part that I can make 15 in the same time. Some of these RU-vid videos I see a 3-4 hour edited video and for parts that should take 10 minutes. It’s screwing around and wasting time. Much better ways to remain productive and that is to (Understand “Manual” production) and the use of “proper tooling” which is the key to a successful small business. Good luck with your approach.

@@glennedward2201 i can indeed chuck right angles into 4 jaw chucks. i'm not saying it's practical, but it is certainly doable. i personally use a 4 jaw and a 6 jaw in my shop, i've never needed anything else. although i have modified my 4 jaw to be able to do weird things.

Wanna race and find out?

Joe Pieczynski well at least you will have your legs for said race.. If a chuck is out that far something is wrong . Loading up soft jaws and boring them while restrained will win the race! Industry Standards

@@TimothyGambino9085 I appreciate your comments, but this video isn't made for shops with soft jaws and 2 piece jaws. Its made for the garage, hobby shop machinist that doesn't have a fat checkbook or a shelf full of attachments for his machinery. It clearly demonstrates, even with a severely out of concentricity POS chuck, you can get a part to run true. This bushing is a 5 minute job at best and is much faster than setting up and boring soft jaws. Legs or not.

Joe Pieczynski sorry joe I apologize

you can make 10 parts or 100 parts faster with a collet

Cheap and relatively quick.

Jacques, this tip is for a major concentricity error. It will also eliminate jaw marring as will your paper technique. I have actually used that technique to protect surfaces myself. Make sure you indicate square first, or your concentricity is false. Thanks for commenting.

Thanks for signing on. I have a bunch of good material on my channel. If you are looking for a specific topic, just ask.

Thanks for watching

These collars can also be tapered for holding things like barrels.

Actually not. Chuck jaws can be worn and therefore translate eccentricity to parts you need to have running true. If you don't work to thousandths of an inch, I guess close enough is good enough. Definitely not click bait but nice try.

We know we have an axis through the spindle that's true, regardless of any runout in any chuck. Your chuck could have .010 runout, but any part you put in that chuck will turn to the axis of the lathe............true. But where the problem comes, is when you take that part out of the chuck........you immediately lose center. The only true way to transfer parts from chuck to chuck is to use a 4 jaw. I see what you did with the collet, and it's interesting, but it's not a solution to the problem. A 4 jaw is the real solution to the problem. You can't make a collet for every part you put in a 3 jaw. It's an elegant one time solution, but it's weighty. Limited to one part. I do work to thou's. And I trust my 4 jaw to do what I need it to do. Granted, there's cumulative error, but the best you can do when it comes to manual machining is to try your best to limit that error. It's a tough row to hoe. I do like your stuff. I especially liked the way you busted the 29 1/2 degree myth when it comes to single pointing threads.@@joepie221

​@@Farmersammimagine, if you will, a person not having access to a 4 jaw chuck. A shocking concept i know, but it happens.

If you noticed he has an adjustable 3 jaw, so for round parts it beats a 4 jaw by a mile timewise. Save your 4 jaw for odd parts or large offsets

All you have to do is tell the boss you need one for that $15 part. Good luck with that.

@@joepie221 also not everybody is working in industry. im still trying to convince my wife. until then ill take all the gray beard tricks i can get.

Its not a one time use. Keep them and use them for the next larger size. They are 90% done.

you obviously know nothing of my organizational skills.........LOL

Great reply. A shoe box is a good place to start. Sharpie marker the sizes on top. Number the collars to match. Easy.

Yeah man, I thought the same thing. But if you size up I suppose it's useful infinitely. Or you make sure to keep it handy and oriented for the next run. I think anyone running numbers would be able to afford an adjustable, but who knows; we all grow at different speeds. Are you a VW tech Speedbuggy?

Chubbza5 I used to fab sand rails and work on VW's. The nick came from my manx fiberglass buggy that I installed a 1.8 16V from a rocco. Kept the FI and knock box control, that was back in about 95 or so.

keeping a selection of brass or aluminum sleeves is also a good idea for parts that require a second op that requires flipping the part and chucking on a finished machine surface, as to not mar the part with the chuck jaws.

I never trust these to repeat after being removed. If I use one twice, its either not for precision, or I bore to the next size up.

He used the machine itself to drill a NEW CHUCK HEAD that was basically an extension to the jaws, but all one part. Another way to think of it is he could have reamed the jaws teeth themselves. That's what I would do myself.

If you try to ream chuck jaws, I can promise it won't end well.

:D I'll trust you. It's been 30 years since I've ran a metal lathe :D

Excellent.

Too many people leave it hanging out too far. Many would be shocked at how much movement there is in a tailstock spindle. It only takes a second to crank it back to a good start point.

Thanks for watching.

More to come. Hang in there. Thanks for watching.

It works very well, give it a shot.

Ya gotta do, what ya gotta do.

Be careful, ask a lot of questions, get more than one answer and move slowly. Safety first.

I light the fire, you control the burn.

I have used hex stock. Thats a great suggestion. Eccentrics are done like this as you mention. Gotta have a mill for that one.

Thank you

Anybody can make a great part with great equipment. It takes a true craftsman to do it with whats on hand.

Thanks for the comment. I am originally from the north eastern US, Maryland and New Jersey. Been in Texas 20 years.

Yeah sounded like a northern accent. Reminded me of a lot of guys who were blue collar workers who just knew their stuff.

I still have chips in the soles of my shoes to prove it. Its in my blood. Blue collar all the way.

As by your name, I guess your roots in Poland, anyway. ;)