A note on your oil...I agree that a multi grade is the way to go. But when I ran Mobil 1, I found it to be too "slippery" such that oil would get by the seals and rings and leak and burn a bit. When I changed back to "non synthetic" oil, my drips and burning cleared up. I also use a zinc or ZDDP additive in the oil for increased wear protection. Just what I have learned over the years. I love synthetic in my other vehicles, but not in my L134.
Good Points Tom, it is a 0-40 oil and it is slippery! Because the motor is new I haven't found it is leaking yet but the idea that it could burn a bit is interesting, i'm going to keep an eye on it and see how it goes, it may work, it may not but interesting to see either way! Thanks for the comment!
Interested to see how you get on with Mobil 0w40 in this engine! I would have said use 10w 30, 15w40 or 20w50 HD diesel spec API Sl non synthetic depending om ambient... But with a split new motor..... It might run on that synthetic stuff really well.... Let us know if it starts using oil..
I rebuilt a '64 Land Rover SIIA 88 from bits onto a new galvanized frame years ago. Working on my brother's '46 CJ2A and even my '01 TJ, in addition to seeing your videos, shows how much even the later D90 Land Rovers owe to that original Willys design.
I spraypainted my Willys to. I used Matt od1. As carefull as possible but the result was bad. It was all dusty and after 5 layers still very thin. After a couple of weeks everything was damaged so I started all over with the roller ( sorry, do not know The English term but its not a brush) and now the result is great. Friend of mine had the same experience.
Great looking project! I have one of those repro carbs on my jeep. It idled great, but had a hesitation as gas was applied. Talked with Scout Pilot of Old Carbs & he suggested just barely raising the metering rod. I raised it maybe 1/16” and it runs great. Very happy with the repro & big thanks to Scout!
Nice flat paint. Such a nice job at it. (love all the brick and stone and the dove I hear around 4:48 in the vid...) Your tire tread is interesting to me... as is yalls language. (prop shaft vs. Drive shaft... Spanner, lol. I love it all bro! So fun to watch. Working on Jeeps will keep ya Covid free!
Yea totally agree with the cliff hanger! I have been waiting for months to see her fire up!!!!! Thank you SOO MUCH for taking the time to make these videos!
Hi love the jeep. Don't want to be negative but please do more research on the oil you should be using. Synthetic's are no good in an old engine. Mineral oil will let it run in first and much better long term.
Yes and no ;) The oil filter is fed oil from the oil gallery, some of the oil in the gallery is free to go to the bearings and some of it is free to go to the filter so only a portion of the oil goes to the filter. Over a couple of minutes the whole oil capacity will have been through the filter, the outlet from the filter is onto the timing chain. Cheers!
Well my fathers 60 Willie's had champions in it when he got it it ran not always well but still and grandmother picked up a 43 Willie's with a 3 in the tree and it had champions as well and I'd been off in the woods and got stranded wed had a cold snap and temps dropped to 12 below zero f and lil ole jeep turned over fine but wouldn't fire well I had a set of auto lite plugs and a set of ac delco plugs well I put in the ac delco plugs the jeep fired off with only half a crank but grannies jeep well it required a larger diameter plug and fortunately the autolilite plugs where correct for that jeep put them in and didnt have any troubles with it even after grannie passed on and dad as well
Good luck with the spraying ! You will in effectively be spraying inside a box, with the overspray dropping down onto the horizontal surface with a slow drying paint, almost inevitable to get semi dry spray stuck on to those surfaces, the only way I found it possible ,was to spray the body off the chassis and on its side, with masking on the lower horizontal panels, then rotate to spray the rest of it. the engine is really slow turning over on the 6 volt, and that with all new connections, could it be that the battery is faulty?
I think that may be it, you'll see in later videos that the starter is a bit better now but still pretty poor. The only remaining item is the battery really so i'm wondering whether these little Optimas are up to the task of running a new tight jeep engine?
it seems to think the Cold cranking amps is 815 wheras the lead acid 6v battery I used to use only had 350cca so the Optima should be better. The optima is 50ah and the lead acid 115ah. The optima has lower AH capacity but that should just affect how long is lasts not its cranking power
@@Greendot319 : The answer is to double up on the Optima, it looks like the 50AH does effect the cranking capacity, no way is that starter getting a 815 A boost, the simple way to prove the system is to try a lead acid battery on it, if you can find a battery where you can access the straps for 6 V, or just use a 12V battery, I have a 12V battery hidden in a 6Volt case, but it used to work on 6V so it really should do now ? Get on to the Optima people, they would not like bad publicity. Good luck !
With a newly rebuilt engine I am surprised you are using a modern synthetic oil. Wouldn't you be better off using a running in oil to speed up the bedding in process? With a 'quality' oil from the start you can inadvertently glaze the bores which means they will take forever to bed in.
The E10 yank myth is alive and well. This is more to do with the mtbe additives etc than ethanol. Canada has run ethanol for 40+ years and we don't have rubber issues... 3 jeeps here, all are fine. Need ethanol at -40 c to keep the small bits of water from freezing in the lines.
Hi! did you do compression test with gauge? - until cranking (plugs in) the rythm of starter was strange for me: 3 long and one short (from 10:55) If it can works as a relativ compression test, then 1 of the 4 cylinder could be weaker? - don't be afraid, it's only idea - i'm not a "jeep guy"!
Multigrade modern oils are much better for an engine than sticking with straight weights, you get the best of both worlds with a multigrade, if they'd had them in WW2 they would have used them!
It is the factory recommendation but remember they did not have Multigrade oils in the 40's! We can take advances in oil technology to make our jeeps run better ;) !
@@Greendot319 I always used SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my Willys ('46 CJ-2A "early model"). It's going to be difficult to find non-detergent oil for the old, original (non-rebuilt), engine. I'm afraid of what "detergent oil" will do to the "build-up" in the engine. Of course, I need to repair/restore my Jeep first -- frame-up including "repairing" all of the rusted away sheet metal. I'm stuck with a retirement/fixed income and can't afford to replace the body tub, etc. :( Back in the mid-to-late '70s I remember stopping at the service station and pulling up to the high-test pump by mistake. The Attendant laughed and told me to back up to the low-test pump or my Jeep would run backwards on the high-octane gas. But I've never used high-octane fuel in it. Or unleaded either, because I don't have the hardened valve seats (I think that's the correct term for it) to permit using unleaded gas. I obviously have a lot to re-learn about my Jeep and hope to get it back onto the road before I get "too old," i.e., I need to put it onto my bucket list. I am definitely looking forward to seeing you driving your restored Willys with no problems! Thank you for sharing your journey!
🤝Thanks for sharing. I love willys. I have 2 willys cj2a 1947 under restoration & Cj3a 1953 it's running now. From Meghalaya. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UIaMO10z_W8.html
Well thats a whole world of questions! The answer to that is my jeep using fully synthetic oil as it is built back to 'as new'. Perhaps I will cover it one day but oil opinions and discussions cause massive difference of opinions!
