GFCI Receptacle Protection, Dwelling Units [210.8(A), 2020 NEC Changes] 

Not surprising that this is the first of the 2020 video drop; thanks guys!

Just as you were talking about RV parks, the marina that I was in had similar issues. Because the requirements they have for galvanic isolation requirements in boats, the automatic testing systems to make sure that they are still working and functional would directly introduce a ground fault on the electrical system to make sure that the system was working. When our marina upgraded the docks and switched out to all GFCI's on the 30A and 50A shore power plugs this caused havoc throughout the marina. It would immediately trip any GFCI outlet because of the boat builder requirements. I then had ELCI breakers on my boat and anytime I would use RF (Radar / VHF) this would cause things to trip from time to time. Was a big mess. I can't imagine what this will do with all the larger 30-50A plugs for all sorts of larger equipment in the garage. I am glad I have an older home without all these changes. 😎 Keep up the good work Mike and team.

With all due respect, people have gone crazy with all the new changes to the NEC. You can say what you like, but the Main reason for most of the changes are to increase profits for the manufacturers and to appease insurance companies. A GFCI breaker is 3 to 4 times the cost of a standard breaker. Arc fault breakers are 9 to 10 times as expensive.

Long Live Mr. Mike........

Thank you Mike for your content. It's crazy how stuff changes. Then, that in turn flows downstream to the customer, resulting in additional costs.

NEC has stock in Lurton and Eaton...

I'm getting ready to build a house this year. At this point, I've just thrown up my hands and just plan to put afci/gfci on everything so I don't have to deal with this.

Awesome team!

Example of damp location is shower ceiling. Instructions for installation of a "damp location" exhaust fan requires GFCI protection.

I just watched this, but as far as damp location. I wired a sunroom built on the back of the house, not climate controlled, and primarily made of steel and glass. The floor, and especially the glass was covered in condesation from the outdoor temp, almost like a car window. And I would consider that room a damp location. We ended up installing a humidi-stat and fan.

Love the video, Thanks Mike!

In Iowa during the winter you have frozen ground up to 42 inches deep for 3-4 months. Also there are days that are damp and just barely above freezing. When you open an overhead garage door you can watch the condensation form on the cold concrete floor and on any metal surface i.e. jointer table, table saw, ungalvanized nails. During winter months people in Iowa will use kerosene space heaters to work in non-insulated garage space. Kerosene gives off excess moisture during combustion. You will have raindrops falling from the excess length of galvanized roofing nails, caused by condensation. Any time you have humidity, and a dewpoint you have damp. Winter or summer damp is condensation. Kudos to the lady for the "don't get creative" comment. Just follow the rules. GREAT ADVICE!!!

33:42 210.8(A)(11) could easily be applied to floor box receptacles located in a mud room or anywhere they are set in a hard surface that is likely to be mopped.

Min 7 . I set a GFCI breaker or a face less GFCI accessible to control a rec behind refrigerator . It work .

Robertson County in Tennessee (per 2017) is now requiring dual function AFCI/GFCI breakers on ALL 15 and 20 amp 120v circuits. With the 2020 NEC interpretation, I'm sure they will adopt this code and require ALL 120v and 240 volt breakers to be included without exception.

As soon as my tax check comes in the 1st thing I'm doing is buying Mike Holt's Journeymans Comprehensive Training Library. Very excited! I can't wait to start learning. Thank you for your inspiration and hard work Mike!

It's simple, if you have a sump pump in the basement, install an alarm outlet that will let you know when there's a problem with the power. They are not that cheap but still better than a clean up of the basement.

Gosh I love this team

You will now have to change the plugs and receptacles on all ranges and dryers from the old school NEMA 10-50 and 10-30 respectively to the newer NEMA 14-50 and 14-30 plugs and receptacles. And you will have to remove the bonding straps as well.

Basically Surge Protect, GFCI and ARC Fault everything everywhere, and then anything that trips those you should just use a standby generator with a cord through the window to operate. The new code should just have people attest to wearing rubber suits and shoes at all times within 100ft of a dwelling. 😂 The code is at the point where it should just tell you where you cannot have these protections.

Might as well make all receptacles in a dwelling GFCI protected. Whether it be at the outlet with a GFCI receptacle or at the panel with a GFCI breaker.

Hey Mike, Love the videos. Keep up the good work. And your panel, love the different input and point of views. FYI. How about the exception for video camera systems that have a hard drive recording numerous cameras located in a basement? Would that be part of or included with 210.8(A) Ex. 5 in basements?

All GFCIs better be accessible so the owner can find it to check why he has dead outlets.

Fire alarm systems are rarely installed in our multi-res and single res for the last 10 years. Smokes only.

Talking about the countertop receptacles at 24:00, I have an electric tea kettle from the United kingdom that runs on 240 volts. The receptacle is a NEMA 6-20R protected by a double pole GFCI breaker of course. It's a 2500 watt kettle that can boil 1.7 litres of water in about 5 minutes. It's awesome. My future sister in law wants one.

They are saying now range or other appliances within 6 ft must be GFCI protected because you're getting shocked from the appliance not from outlet

Mike what about the new changes about receptacles location around bath tubs

just install GFCI and ARC combo breakers ( DONE)

More vids pls mr.mike!

I am an exception! I installed a real fire alarm system in my house because my father is hearing impaired and this system was more interesting to me and more high-tech than those "hearing disability" rated smoke detectors are. To be honest, I have no idea if it's legal to do, but I followed smart wiring guidelines and had the help of some local fire alarm companies to instruct and guide me through the process. They insured I ran wires safely, using bushings and things, following voltage drop calculations and making sure my strobe candela ratings were the right setting for each room, along with using low frequency sounders in sleeping rooms. If I built a new home in the future, is it legal to install a fire alarm system instead of using smoke detectors? I'm not sure where to even begin finding out this information. P.S. Brian sounds really knowledgeable on this, could I contact him somehow to learn more? I will be a homeowner soon and I'd love to find out more about this.

Did the cost on material only on my House panel and a couple other 2. Total amount in breakers plus the box $859-$1200. This is in Florida.

A little vague whether it's required by code being beyond 6 feet of a sink, but a refrigerator with an ice maker has a water connection and so does a built-in coffee maker. My logic says they both require GFCI protection along with AFCI protection.

The requirement for the NEMA 14-30 and NEMA 14-50 four prong plugs and receptacles for dryers and ranges respectively has been in the NEC since the 1996 code edition for new installs.

How about 220v Well Pump (pressure switch in basement). Assume this means a GFCI breaker (hard wired)? (Thanks for the videos!)

Was there a live RU-vid feed this time? Or were they just automatically uploaded?

At the 21:42 mark you are discussing the definition of a "BASEMENT". As a firefighter and per the NFPA, ANYTHING That is Below Ground Level Is Consider Basement. Even if it has an exterior access.

hey mike I really wanna advance my skills in the electrical field... im a third year apprentice and I wanna gain more knowledge about electrical theory.. I watch ur videos and all of the stuff on your website... I live in Canada.. so most of the time the code rules do relate but different numbers and what not... do you have anyone down here who does what you do that you could suggest..I have my fourth year material well someof it and already going at it..but I want to really understand more about electrical.. and how it all works.. ur equipotential bonding... and motors have really gave me Insight on those subjects... any suggestions ? and I already go over my code book to keep on top.. thanks mike... I have never seen videos like youra.. detail.. deep understanding.. and.. ur knowledgeable is amazing man keep it up..

Greating Mr.Mike From my simple experience ,I suggest to install ELCB or GFCI for entire dewelling unit ,why ?let me show the following:- In around 1997 ( approximately) my wife shocked by electrical leakage current in AC window type switch when she turned on ( leak current of compressor to whole sc body ) through around 1 second ( approximately ) the main ELCB that I installed for whole my house tripped and safed my wife live ... So before this accident and after I was recommended to installed ELCB or GFCI for entire or whole house..the brand of ELCB at that time was Siemens , 63 A ,30mA , 4 pole . . My wife through the 1 second shock time was suffered from harmful pain ( through this 1 second) ... I tested this ELCB on rats ( big size ) and the ELCB was tripped successfully also ... Finally ,in current days I looking for GFCI , 5mA ,63 A Siemens brand... Can you (Mr. Mike ) assist me to buy it ... Eng.jabbar ....from Iraq-Thiqar province..

If they are in a basement, kitchen, sinks, laundry, garage, outside, crawl space and all wet or damp locations should cover it all for GFCI protection.

With the way that the code is going (and also my concern for residential customer safety) I'm using Dual Function circuit breakers almost all the time now (as opposed to AFCI-only circuit breakers or an AFCI circuit breaker and GFCI receptacle). In my area, Siemens is by far the most common brand circuit breaker panel that I run into (and I myself insist on installing their PL, PN, or CU series panels which are either copper bus or tin-plated copper bus). The dual function circuit breakers are only about $10 more than the AFCI circuit breakers, so this seems like a simple solution whenever in doubt ...as well as being a selling point for the quality of my workmanship in terms of assuring my customers that the safety of their family is my priority. Let me just say for anyone who has any doubts about this that that safety conversations are a selling point without trying to "upsell". I've written a Google document for my customers explaining basic AFCI and GFCI information and I explain this very blatantly to my customers who appreciate both my concern and my transparency. Putting information into my customer's hands (or more accurately, in a text or email when sending a Google doc) trumps a $10 savings every time (note that an AFCI circuit breaker with a GFCI receptacle actually costs more than a dual function circuit breaker and adds additional labor costs; I could essentially charge the same amount for a dual function circuit breaker as an AFCI circuit breaker and still make more money taking a $10 materials "loss"on the DF breaker). Stocking DF circuit breakers also saves me space in my van. I still have about 15 or 20 AFCI circuit breakers, and I almost don't know what to do with them. Finally, I haven't had a call back yet, but if I ever did: troubleshooting from just the circuit breaker perspective seems easier than involving needing to check the GFCI location. Not to mention if/when replacement becomes necessary: it's easier to change a circuit breaker in a panel in front of your face than leaning over a kitchen counter trying to get inside a little box to change a GFCI... And there is no worry about whether your GFCI has red/black buttons or white buttons (or whether the indicator light is green, amber, or red) so you get to avoid the conversation of whether or not your product's aesthetics match the existing decor of their kitchen. LoL

Great video, thanks. I am currently working on an apartment building and the engineer's electrical drawings say: "Provide (4) countertop receptacles each with dedicated home run with dual-function AFCI/GFCI breakers, GFCI receptacles not permitted (Typical)." At this time, I can only find the Square D AFCI/GFCI breaker combo on eBay for $80+, all suppliers near me seem to be out of them. AFCI-(non-GFCI) breakers are still widely available at less than half the cost. I'd like to use AFCI breaker + GFCI receptacle. Does it say anywhere in the 2020 NEC that GFCI breakers are not permitted? If so, I can't find it. Thanks!

Hi, I have a house built in 1957. No ground wires. Service Panel outside is 200 amps and a 100 amp subpanel inside, all with breakers. If I replace my breakers with AFGI breakers, will I be better protected than if I replaced all my wiring with 3 conductors? Seems like it would clear faults better than a ground wire back to the service panel. Cost to replace all wiring in the house is very high. Thank you for all the great videos and your help.

I guess microwave hood(over the range) that has a receptacle Installed inside the cabinet, and within 6’ of the sink, has to be GFCI protected as well?

Is the allowance still there for a single non-GFCI receptacle on a dedicated circuit for a sump pump?

Regarding damp locations and GFI Receptacles: Might ANY part of a dwelling unit in a climate that, even occasionally, hits 100% humidity, be considered a damp location?

Dwelling units would also include condos or apartments? Those have fire alarm systems.

Very useful information for electrical safety :)

a bar area is not a kitchen, but could have a sink. So all receptacles within the sink 6 foot area need gfci. Also: A breakfast nook in some houses is not a kitchen, but may have a sink and coffee maker..

Two other possible "within 6' of a sink" are wet bars and garage sinks. A garage door opener receptacle in the ceiling is not readily accessible (without using a ladder) so if there is an opener, GFCI protection must be provided as a load on another receptacle, or from a GFCI breaker. Question: does a car charger receptacle require GFCI protection? They are typically in garages, carports and driveways, served by greater amp circuits and use a proprietary plug. The NEC definition of receptacle seems to apply.

If I was to put a single receptacle for the Humidifier on the furnace instead of a GFCI would that be OK?

What are the code requirements for outlets “junction boxes” not receptacles (well pump, hot water tank, dishwasher under island more then 6ft from a sink, garbage disposal hard wired,) I get ranges ovens outlets more then 6 feet from sink don’t need GFCI protection. Is there a code that applies to Certain appliances?

About the big RV garage that Ryan was talking about, we rough a lot of those here in Jacksonville area, and some times the owners want three dedicated 240v 40 amps circuits.

How many people are just going to stop pulling permits and fly under the radar, saving 90% off?

Hello Mr. Holt. Fisrt of all: hands down sir. You're awesome. I have a quick question about one of your books: I'm interested in buying the "electrical theory" book; however, since we are in the 2020 I was wondering if you're going to publish a newer version of it or the current edition is going to be the only option for a while. Thanks a lot Journeyman electrician

A dryer or range would have to have a GFCI breaker. Would it also need to be AFCI protected as well. Do they make AF/GF 30 and 40 amp breakers yet?

A car charging receptacle for an electric car is going to be common going forward in garages. Most of those are 30 amp and 40 amp 240 V.

Mike you are one knowledgeable goofball and that's why we love you! Lol. I like the one where people think you're going to drive a ground rod at the base of a pole and when the lightning strikes the pole that ground rod is going to protect the fixture at the top of the pole... lmao!

It’s the switch Stallone does in over the top.

What about sump pumps in the basement , do they need GFCI receptacle ?

Hey Mike what are the dimensions of your grow room?

Started talking about pot and everybody was forgetful lol

14:35 "In FL we don't have basements so we put them in the closets". Does it strike any one else as odd that you are allowed to install an alarm panel in clothes closet? I am pretty darn sure we are not allowed to install a load center or panel board in a clothes closet because it adds to the fire hazard why would we be allowed to install ANY electrical panel in a clothes closet? Yes I realize he did not use the word :clothes" but it is common practice to install a bugler alarm panel in a clothes closet within the master bedroom in Florida.

Got a question regarding the required outlets in commercial kitchens. The only place I could find required outlets in the NEC, is for kitchens in the dwelling art. 210.52. Does this apply for commercial kitchens? Or there's no requirements for them?

any provision in NEC where Panel boards are not permitted in hotel guestrooms and suites and the like ? TYVM

Dishwasher and or sink disposal outlets are under the counter behind cabinet door. Is that outlet “accessible “? I think u will say yes but want to make sure. So then gfci receptacle can go there?

Requiring a GFCI for 240 circuits in wet locations is just common sense. Outside of home owners bitching about cost (which they always do with the cost of those breakers) I don't know what took the NFPA that long to implement this. If I am running an arc welder or an air compressor etc in a wet location I sure as hell would appreciate having a GFCI in case or an electrical fault. Better safe then dead.... Of course to use a GFCI at 240V all of your equipment has to be a NEMA 14-30/50 or L14-30/50R. Most welding equipment and air compressors etc dont have a neutral. I guess all welders and air compressors (wired as a plug, not hard wired) will have neutrals now? Though GFCI breakers dont need a neutral wired outlet to work...

Can someone please tell me if I need a gfci outlet on every single outlet in a kitchen if I have new gfci/afci combo breakers on the kitchen circuits? Also if I have a gfci outlet upstream of counter top outlets is that sufficient or does every outlet downstream of the first gfci outlet have to have to be a gfci outlet as well? I have heard people strongly argue the point that doubling up on gfci and afci protection by having gfci/afci breakers and outlets on the same circuit offers no increased benefit or protection and is unnecessary and redundant. Where other people strongly argue that this redundancy adds a measure of increased safety in the event a gfci outlet fails/malfunctions/ becomes damaged I still have ground fault and arc fault protection on the circuit provided by the gfci/afci breakers. I guess I figured aside from having a back up in place in the event of a outlet failure, having the gfci/afci combo breakers would be good protection for hardwired appliances that are not downstream of a gfci outlet, like the dishwasher, stacked oven/microwave combo and the gas cooktop which are on their own dedicated circuits.

So I will need to cut the plug off my kiln which is in the garage that runs 240 and hard wire it into a junction box or disconnect switch. A junction box is most certainly not a receptacle right?

i don't get why all kitchen outlets are not required to be GFCI- protected. that little outlet shown in the kitchen that was not required to be protected can easily be used as a coffee- or tea-making station. i used an area like that myself in my Airbnb. i had a little station to make hot beverages. you'd think GFCI would be req because not everyone puts their appliances on the counter

What about the second part of the requirement "and supplied by single phase branch circuits rated 150 volts to ground"? A 240 volt range, dryer, etc. would not satisfy both parts therefore not requiring GF protection, correct?

Indoor damp or wet location? So like a pool change room, hot tub area, pump room, sauna, mud room, wine room, wet bar even if it doesn't have a sink or tap as it is expected to have bottles of opened liquids (wetness)?

This is mute(locally), most (Washington State counties) city rules are requiring ALL receptacles are to be GFCI protected and AFCI protected. Even if its for a refer or saw exc.exc.

When you talk about GFCI PROTECTION FOR RECEPTACLES, are you allowed to put the gfci breaker without the gfci receptacles or both gfci receptacles and the gfci breaker for kitchens.

I'd define basement as any unfinished space below grade, or any finished space with a floor more than 3" below the lowest on or above grade door opening in the dwelling.

At a certain point, can't all this be done at the breaker box?

Just had a new house built with GFCI in dryer outlet. The dryer tripped this immediately. Turns out, my brand new dryer has a wiring configuration where neutral and ground are bonded and tripping the GFCI. The only two solutions are: 1. Changing dryer wiring (requires technician) 2. Changing to normal breaker (not to code) Mike, what would you recommend we do? This problem is going to grow exponentially since all new dryers will have this issue.

How about heat pumps mini split condensers need gfci protection?

Greetings from Nicaragua

but wait.. when I weld the amperade will set off a gfci outlet. The amps is over 40 amps. An exception needs kept.

Per the 2020 code, does a hard-wired kitchen exhaust fan that is within 6 feet of the sink require GFCI?

In an ac system the electrons never leave the source

All receptacles should be GFCI/AFCI protected and have separate circuits for lighting that are not GFCI protected.

I know it's 3 or 4 years later, i want to have 240v put in my garage, how would afci, gfci requirements work when my 240v welder and air compressor don't have neutral connections on them? Thanks for the help.

Excuse me sir, what is the purpose of having GFCI outlets if we already have an effective ground fault current path with overcurrent protection?

What to do when you have GFI nuisance tripping and customer wants you to make it stop?

Aren't all new GFCI outlets required to self test each month???

Does a detached garage follow the same rules for a dwelling garage?

Is a Cellar, also considered a basement?

Do attics require GFCI protection?

so is a "flanged inlet" a receptacle? Cant find a definition for flanged inlet and it seems to fit the description of a receptacle

Or can you install DFGFCI/AFCI BREAKERS IN PLACE OF GFCI RECEPTACLES?

How can you GFCI a welding receptical when a welding receptical only has 2 hots and a ground. And no Neutral wire! And GFCI requires a neutral

Why doesn't UL and others responsible for equipment, make a requirement for equipment makers, to install integral GFCI protection for personnel that is simply testable by consumers to insure protection (similar to the monthly testing for GFCI receptacles), and serviceable and replaceable by qualified person's . In all equipment intended for, likely to be installed and/or used in locations that would require GFCI protected receptacles and/or circuits; instead of expanding the requirements in the code for electricians. Wouldn't that be a more safe, practical and in many regards effective in order to insure compliance with the latest rules?

Class A GFCI Breaker opens the circuit the moment the GFC exceeds 6 mA and it does not do so when GFC is under 4 mA. Nice! To which class the 'GFCI Breaker 30 mA' belongs? Class B or C?

Damm thank God for Mike i love my brother from another mother ,I'm a code expert in alb nm Anthony esparsen

So all the appliances manufactured. Has to make corrections on those appliances to be able to applied code cause lot of refrigerators say. Clearly don’t install on gfci. Also what about those appliances that has a trim not easy to pull out . In that case we have to install gfci breaker?

can you make vids about lighting loads calculations

Whew I'm trying to keep up with all this wow

What about a car charger

Smoke detectors/CO2's must be Hardwired interconnected tamper proof utility fed installed on a locked on square D breaker. Fire marshal is the only one with the Key. I want loud sirens and bright flashing lights. My mother cant hear anymore.