GH4 Vlog Color Grading Tutorial in Davinci Resolve 

Please check my new video on how to grade VLog (in the GH5) with Color Transforms instead of the Arri LUT, it looks so incredibly good. Thanks for watching.

+Michael Stahlschmidt - You are very welcome. I am glad you found it helpful. Regards.

+Pierre-Emilio Medina - Your very welcome. Thank you so much for watching.

Hey Dave - something similar happened to me a lot. It may be related to the proxy media that you are using for the preview. So make sure to set the Proxy's to a reasonable quality and most importantly, render test videos throughout, that way you can really see what is going on. Luts can be noisy (and creators know this) so instead of using a LUT, try using the Color Transform - it should give you significantly better results specially considering that they are non-destructive.

+SurvivalRox - Sounds good - I'll make a tutorial about that as soon as I have a chance. Thanks for watching.

+Sully Cortez - I am currently uploading a new tutorial - just for you! Grading GH4 Vlog in After Effects. Hope it helps.

waiting for after effects tutorial

+sudeep karam he already did it lol search his channel

+Alex Centeno I'm having a problem with resolve, btw I love it now, but i'm having a problem of the macro blocking with using the 'alexa lut' in node 2. I can't get all my nodes to be 'active' after I delete the lut cuz iw anted to add it to the end node instead, but all my previous nodes 'disable' or turn brown in color. any ideas what to do?

+The Dirty Dozen - Thanks for the comment. I did a color correction tutorial for After Effects - so you can check it out here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hQRD5xE-uGI.html In terms of workflow, I am constantly trying new things and I wished I already had a secret sauce, unfortunately not yet. I like to edit in Adobe Premiere and color correct in DaVinci Resolve - I don't use FCP at all. In terms of noise reduction, I use Neat Video (as the very first node, but I do it as the very last thing). And in terms of film emulation I use Impulz but I do my own grading, so I don't really use OSIRIS. Hope that helps.

+ChrisDillon Hey Chris, thanks for watching. My preferred type of metering in camera is "spot" - That way, I can quickly measure different parts of the image and make my own conclusions about what it really should be. So I would directed it to a shadow and then to a highlight to see the difference in reading. Then I would decide what is it exactly that I want well exposed. If the most important detail is in the shadow, then I will take that reading and add about a stop. If the highlight is the most important detail, then take that and perhaps add 2/3 of a stop. But remember that as long as you are more or less in the right ball park you should be good in post production. In other words, if the camera is telling you that the aperture should be f2.4 and ISO 800, then you can safely add a stop to that and in post production you will be fine. The problem usually is when the camera tells you that you are underexposed by 2 stops and you disregard it - then when you get to post, VLOG is too noisy and on top of that you can't lift the mids because they also are noisy. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.

Very helpful. Thank you.

+TPV Productions - That's a great question. My personal experience is that the noise in the shadows is the same in both profiles. However, I have been shooting with +1 exposure. In that regard it does give me a bit more dynamic range than the Cinelike D (not two full stops though). I'm gonna try to make a video about the comparison of dynamic range between the two profiles. Thank you for watching.

I know this comment is a little overdue but you should be able to bring h264 directly in Davinci Resolve 17

+The Dirty Dozen - Thanks for the comment. I would do whatever possible to give the sensor as much light as possible: 1. If you can use a fast lense. 2. If you can't then use a Metabones Speedbooster with a somewhat fast lense. 3. If you can't do that, then try to give as much light as possible with ISO. Then, I would use V-Log L profile with -3 or -4 sharpening and noise reduction at 0. I like to shoot in 4k (3840x2160) not C4k, so for me Frequency I keep at NTSC and not Cinema (but it is up to you). In terms of exposure, I try to stay with double the frame rate - so if you are shooting at 24fps, then speed at 1/50 of sec and aperture depends on amount of light and how much depth of field you wish to have. Hope that helps!

+Micah Lindstrom - Hey - thanks for the comment. I recorded this internally in 8-bit.

+Thomas Röhnelt - Hey Thomas - I have posted the link to the Arri's Lut Generator in the description - that should help. Thanks for watching.

+Alex A. Centeno MBA. Thank you!!!!!

+Primary Technologies - Thanks for the comment. When shooting in Vlog, the Gh4 doesn't allow for the manipulation of saturation and contrast. It does allow for control of sharpness and noise reduction though. As you mentioned - it is a flat profile as it is, so there would be no need for additional reduction of the saturation and contrast if it was possible. Thanks for watching.

Thanks, Alex!!!

+MotocrossTV - Well it depends. If you are shooting with enough light, with fast lenses (or with the Metabones Speedboaster) then it probably would make sense for me to overexpose as much as possible. If on the other hand you don't have enough light, then you may as well, shoot with other profile (maybe standard) and try to get the shot by increasing your ISO. If you are in a position, where you are concerned about noise, then you probably don't have an option, either you get the shot or you don't - so I would get the shot. I have seen some examples of the GH4 in ISO 1600 and even 5000 and to be honest, they are not bad. At the end, if you end up using Neat Video, it probably would work great. If you have the money, I would recommend getting 1. Fast lenses or 2. The Metabones speedboaster. That's my two cents.

+Alex Centeno I got the speedboster and the sigma 1,8 and I always try to use 400iso. I want a scen with a small part of light on a face for example. Should I then exposure correct and dark the image in grading or should I underexposure like 2-3 stops?

+MotocrossTV - I would go with the second option if possible. Expose correctly and then control exposure in post-production. Shane Hurlbut, a world-renowned cinematographer who shoots multimillion dollar blockbuster films (including Terminator Salvation, Need for Speed and Semi-Pro) says the following: "I do the underexposing part of this test because I feel that digital sensors look better when they are starved of light. This is a technique I used with film." (www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2013/11/cinematography-online-red-epic-vs-canon-c500/). I personally and humbly disagree with him. I think that digital sensors when starved of light they push noise. Obviously, the amount of noise is going to depend on many factors including the quality of the sensor and ISO. But my opinion is that it is best to not starve the GH4 of light, instead to give it as much as needed. Then, in post production you can easily come down on the exposure.

+ll2nycell - I am not, but I will try my best to visit it one day.

+Jens Vallsten - I know that's the beauty of having color, you can then tone it down to your taste or the mood that you are looking to accomplish. Thanks for your comment.

+Alex Centeno Thats the thing that gets me, Alex sounds like he knows exactly what hes talking about, and generally you want to try and replicate what the pros do... but what about when the pros footage doesn't look much like what you're after... :/ leaves me more confused. I just want my video to look more filmic like with the vlog, but this footage looks super over saturated

Hey, don't quit! The reason I mix music with speech is because it makes it more engaging. Imaging a movie with no audio. The music adds an emotional component to media. :) Merry Christmas!