These videos are great, thanks so much. Only thing I can add is that when tightening the swivel shaft locknut, another way to get it correctly tightened is according to the service manual to: 1. Tighten until a clearance of .002 - .010 in. (0.05 - 0.25 mm) exists between lower swivel pin washer and gimbal housing mount using a feeler gauge. 2. Strike down on gimbal ring flanges using a plastic hammer. 3. Recheck clearance and tighten locknut as necessary.
I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.
The kit for the transom is the best solution to stupid engineering on mercrisers part. Not only making the steering inaccessible, but mercruisers' kit makes for a mechanically unsound repair. As well as there way always leaks water into the boat. I just used this kit for the first time. I can say it saved time and there was no frustration level . J-Tech Marine
Great video and very happy to see there is a way more efficient solution. That being said will your kit work on a alpha one gen 1? I can’t seem to find anything on the gen 1s
Very good video I have a alpha 1 generation 1 with loose steering will your kit work on cutting the top out and rebuild, mine has the same freeplay. thank you Joe
Hi, can I know how much you pulled the nuts with the Torque wrench? Thank in advance, I want to do the same job but I can't find an online workshop manual
How stiff/loose should the gimbal be left to right on the pin? When is it too stiff or too loose left to right wise. I think my one is too stiff and can only just be moved by hand. Great video, thanks so much.
I am unclear on the u joint bellow and the aluminum ring replacement. You said you made a tool? what does it look like i have been told you can mess this up if not careful.
Hi, Getting ready to reassemble my Merc A1G2 transom assembly. I have concerns about the pin. The pin the goes through the gimbal ring seems like it needs some sort of seal to prevent seawater intrusion. I cannot seem to find it listed anywhere. Should I just put an o-ring in there, or is there a specific seal(s) for the steering ping as it connects through the ring? Thanks in advance.
This guy just saved me $3;800. You can’t trust anyone, that’s why I check everything. My gimbal wasn’t worn out the two bolts on the u bolt we’re loose.
Thanks man! We think we have a leak in the bellows somewhere. When the drive is down there is no leak. As soon as we put it up it pours in like a small waterfall.
I have excessive play left and right on my stern drive my left gimble ring bolt is tightenable but the right is just turning not tightening This is invaluable info Thanks
In the 70s I started with 280trs drives in new 27ft magnum boats. gimbal were splinted so was the tiller arm. Still no good today the better way latham external string that's the best end of problem
once you've replaced the wear bushing, and I assume there is only one, at the top, none at the bottom, and everything is reassembled and torqued down properly, how much side to side and up and down play should there be if any. is there anything you can adjust to minimize the play until you replace the wear bushing?
Keith Sage yes. If your going to do all that work. removing the transom assembly when the engine is out takes only about an hour. and when you go back in you will have the added benefit of a fresh transom seal on your restoration. plus when it is all out the transom is more accessible to check for rot.
can i do this operation on the Mercruiser TRS stern from 1987,, defect steering arm, and would like to check the worn at the bolt from the gimbal ring and to steering pin..and this look as a easy and quick way to repair the failure....
@@Andrico77 mine has 3.5” of play…. Yup… time to spend money. Mine affects my steering a lot, I’d say you’re on your way to needing it replaced but if the steering is fine, you could get away with it for now.
I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.