@@scalebuildersguild hey how did you do stripes were they stenciled or you just made w exato knife body looks good not sure if i should go for paint removel on windows or just new body , the shipping makes body expensive
Don’t downplay your incredible building and painting skills! You and Hemistorm alike are inspirational to a great many people. Thank you for the great work!
Wow I really like the turn out. I have a gen 8. but I have a few other cars I have to work on. But I can’t wait to get started on the rig, thanks to u and ur work. And ur right Hemi is a great guy. Thanks once more.
Awesome video, nail polish remover works perfect for removing paint from windows. Leaves a crystal clear finish with no scratches from sandpaper and no cloudiness. It took 20 min to remove all the windows paint from my TRX4 sport with a bit of elbow grease. This method also worked on rtr bodies from Losi, Axial and also removes any Tamiya paint. I haven’t tried with redcat though. But do not use acetone as that will melt the lexan, nail polish remover is much more gentle.
Looks awesome. I’ve watched so many Hemistorm paint videos that guys just on a whole different level. I’m happy if I get lines without overspray. Nice job on the black weather strips.
Barely recognized her with the new outfit! Very well done 👍 Maybe it's time to get Hemi in on the budget build series, u know, to liven up the competition a bit lol 😂
thats a great start, can't wait to see it weathered. I have a tamiya bug kit in the same colours that i did up a few years back and always loved the combo
Thanks Matt Chris is really cool guy!! after you blew past me in the 5K I ran with Chris for most of it he beat Me by like a couple hundred feet it was back and forth a lot of fun look forward to seeing you guys this year:)
Well they say there's more than 1 way to skin a cat (weird saying) but from what I've tested out, using a non-acetone finger nail polish remover is by far the best way to get clear windows for minimal cost & effort. Even over wet sanding IMO. If anybody is curious in how it worked for me, i have a couple of videos on clear windows on my channel. The windows here look pretty good so I suppose it's whatever you prefer. I would encourage someone to at least try the non-acetone finger nail polish remover at least once though. Take an old beater RTR body you have laying around and give it a go.
If you don't want to mask off and paint the rubber trim around the windows, there is another option. You can carefully remove the factory window stickers and transfer them to a piece of wax paper. Go through Chris's steps to clear the windows, then carefully remove the window stickers from the wax paper (there will be a slight bit of adhesion to the wax paper, more or less depending upon how long you leave the stickers on). Apply the window stickers back onto the body and then carefully cut around the window area to leave only the black "rubber" portion of the sticker. Cutting on the outside of the body is always easier than from the inside, I think.
You did a sweet job with the color looks like what you might have seen one in the 80's. I will be looking forward to seeing you age it with an airbrush and or wash.
I took some automotive grade laqour thinner on a rag and it rubs paint right off. Then just go behind with some cleaner and rub off any residue smears left behind on the now clear parts. I watched the method you recommended and while i liked it i know of a much faster way lol. Even in cheap paint on actual cars that been redone with crap materials. You can sit there with a rag and thinner and wipe it off without even touching sandpaper. Cheap, not baked and sealed behind clear coat, or not automotive grade period some legit thinner will take it off with little to none elbow grease. Same method applies with loctite. Ever have a blot, grub screw, etc that's stuck like chuck in loctite, dribble some laqour thinner on it and it softens it right on up and allows you to zip it out. Learned that one on those damn ford bed bolts they dip in loctite just about, only way you get those out without cussing, broken torqes bits and grinding off the bolt head. Saved me many stripped out grub screws on pinion gears 👍
@@scalebuildersguild oh absolutely, stuff is definitely harsh. I work with it daily at work so its its nothing but a thing. For the loctite though wouldn't use anything else. Softens it up better and faster than the heat method. Thinner all the way for them locked down grub screws
You could have sprayed the panel lines black with an airbrush before painting the final color. that would give that whole thing even more depth. Its called preshading, i use this on my static models with great results. (that gen 8 still Looks awesome)
Looks great. The Orange showing through kinda looks like a red clay dust after a trail run. I'm on a tight budget for my rc collection, but this is on my list.
I think it looks great so far and i think some scale bullit holes in the body and/or glass would look cool or maybe some shotgun peppering,ha,ha. Keep up the inspiring work!
What are your thoughts on using pre existing toy bodies on a crawler? I have a Bruder mack cab grafted onto my Gen 7 and then a custom machined aluminum bed on the back to give it a farm truck look.
@@scalebuildersguild sounds good. I recently got bitten by the scale bug so I thought using a pre existing Bruder cab would be a nice start. Would definitely love to try and scratch built an actual body with styrene one day and your videos really encourage me too! Thanks for the reply!
Hola es igual pintar por fuera que por dentro ? Yo quiero hacer lo mismo a mi redcat Everest g7 solo que no logro quitar por completo la pintura de adentro. Gracias buen video.
Not sure if you got my email and spoke with him, but if you did thanks. He got in touch with me. You did an amazing job on that body. Is there something you can do to cover the holes?
Thanks for a great video. I didn’t know you could spray normal Tamiya paint over the Tamiya Lexan paint and it would stick. This has just changed my world! I have you tried other acrylics over Tamiya Lexan paint with much success?
Love that color scheme, and the stripes are a nice touch. One question though; do you plan on defining the door and hood lines? It looks kinda one-piece as it sits. I’m curious as to the technique required to make those lines stand out.
I’d love to put a more authentic Scout body on my VS4-10 chassis but haven’t found anyone who makes a 313mm wheelbase body. The Redcat Gen 8 is too short, any ideas anyone?
Well, it's a 12.3 inch wheelbase, so there should be a fair number out there to suit you. My only caution is that the inner fender systems probably won't work.
@@scalebuildersguild on Redcats Instagram they have a Gen 8 with a Ford F150 body but i wonder how they make it fit because of how the body lays on top of the chasis :(
