I have been using a old ceramic kiln that has a temperature control since 2008. I mainly make dichroic glass cabochons but have made plates, dishes, free standing glass art etc. I find it so easy to use because the kiln warms up slowly / cools down slowly I don't have to stick to any fusing schedule. I set the temperature and walk away for about a hour to a hour and half depending on the item / shape required. I have learnt that once it reaches the temperature and clicks off to let it soak for 3 clicks on and off and they are done. Thank you Jeff for all your videos 😁 this one was of particular interest because I don't know or have heard anyone else that uses a ceramic kiln for glass fusing 😁
Hi Helen. That's what I do for cabs mainly, often ramp up fully just turn off at the top. But plates etc I find very interesting. There are so many variables. The type of finish, thickness and so on. Are these just 6 mm or vary in thickness. A very slow ramp and cool will definitely work, but how long does it take to cool down from top temp? Any info you can give I'm sure will be appreciated here.
Hi Helen, this is wonderful to hear! A friend gave me a Paragon X-14J China Painting kiln and I bought a digital controller for it so I can learn how to fuse glass in it. I found Jeff’s video in a search for “ glass fusing in a ceramic kiln”. If you can please share some tips on how you fuse your larger pieces, I would be so greatfull, Thanks! 🙂
Mystery solved. You got it in a nutshell, thank you. I'm dabbling in this glass fusing as it fun and may offer solutions to add detail- baking pictures paiinted onto glass for stained glass compositions.
I wanted to be able to make both my bisque-fired molds AND work with fused/slumped glass. I decided to buy a dual-media kiln with a cone 10 pottery capability. Elements are in both the walls and lid. Via a switch the kiln is in glass firing mode with only the top elements, and ceramic mode uses the wall elements. It does have a fully computerized controller. I have been very happy with the kiln in the main. I do use the stilts to get the kiln shelf near the lid. Overall, a good choice for my purposes. I appreciated your insights, especially about the shorter element life in the lid! I tend to shy away from commercial molds; I prefer to use 3D CAD software and 3D prints to design and make new, unique molds.
Hi Jeff, you should get some t shirts made that say “Be more Jeff”. As I fumble my way through projects, I say to myself, slow down and be more like Jeff.
Apparently there is Alumina Ceramics that work well with rapid heat and cooling -seemingly ideal for glass work. I'm also considering 3D printing Stainless steel filament (FFF) technology from "The Virtual Foundry" sintering the model and using it as a mold for glass fusing because the sintering temp of steel is far lower than the glass fusing, then with the smooth surface use the Boron Nitrate Spray. Have you ever tried Alumina ceramics or stainless steel as a mold?
Yes, I have used stainless steel for both draping and slumping. In both cases no problem. But for slumping I just make sure that the chances of trapping air or trapping the piece are reduced by the shape. No undercuts, no steep sides etc. No idea about 3D printed sintered objects.
Jeff, great video. I thought I would tell you you can stack glass in a ceramic kiln if you have half shelves and just do 1/2 of the kiln and stay off the bottom as it’s usually too cool. I also will do one shelf 8-10 inches off the bottom on the other half . I fire student pieces all the time and get great results. 12-14 pieces each load.
Hi Arthur. That's good to know. I'm sure others will be very interested in that info. Sounds like you do classes. Something I've thought of but don't think I have the knowledge for that.
@@RocketRoseArt lol, I never saw this until I was checking Arthur’s email for him now! I didn’t realize I was on my better half’s RU-vid page when I messaged you. Arthur is a wonderful mechanic but he leaves the glass to me. Yes, I teach beginners at Luke Adams Glass blowing and do mobile classes in my hometown for the seniors.
Hi Amrita. Yes you can. I've never done it but have had reliable sources that say it can be done. You'll still have to worry about thermal shock and correct annealing. Which means controlling ramp and cool segments. If your kiln can do that then you'll be right. There are a couple of things I mentioned in the video as well.
