Watching this video I'm really liking how you show the GoPro footage then the beach camera footage. It helps to create a sense of flow and really makes the video a lot more intriguing with the variety of footage. Great stuff man, keep it up!
Thanks for the feedback. I did so in my latest video. If you haven't seen it. Trying to up the views ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--ShoTkrmXBU.html
What an epic session, I love how well you capture the surfer’s perspective from not only the sick rides but seeing the oncoming sets & choosing your wave to paddle!
So cool. My go to spot in varsity days living on top of the hill for a couple of years. Too many locals at Garvies and Ansteys but the rock always rocked... some unexpectedly heavy sessions had... 😮
Would like to keep it that way. Mind amending the spot names. Save me from receiving the locals wrath🫡 was thinking I need to stop advertising it so much and take the land marks out. Besides the pool of course😅
I don’t live there but have surfed there and will anytime i want. I will say when we were surfing it it was bigger and we were taking off way up then point from where you are taking off. That’s where we were kicking out. Some of the best barrels. Freaking thick round long ones. When you don’t make one you pay, but that’s at any spot with heavy waves. You pay to play. It’s so macabre from the top of the point.
Oh, i think you guys were out on this day? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0Hh7xruw6Bg.html Man would love to see someone send it in these conditions. 25 yrs, and no takers.
@Zach, Ive been documenting this wave for 8 years and never seen your face out there. Maybe you are getting mixed up with another spot as there is no "point" at Caves. As for the "don't live here, don't surf here" is very much a 90's vibe on the Bluff, especially further north from Ansteys. But that being said, if you have good surf etiquette and attitude, whether big or small out there, you will fit right in. Hopefully see you on the next big swell out there 🤙🏼
@@darren_simes_photo this was 20 years ago. And yes if you can surf good and be respectful and are given respect you can surf anywhere. And i mean anywhere. Love sa many good times.
Cool pov stuff. Reminds me a bit of voodoo's Cronulla but in reverse. Super shallow reef sections hard to know how sections going to line up. Good memories 🤙
Spot on. There are entry points on warbly waves. But yea, I don't know self-preservation kicked in that bank has been closing out heavy all season. No one surfs or bodyboards it. Will try next season. Miss all the reps.. for one diamond in the rough. Hopefully, I have my quiver sorted for it by then.
Yrrrgh! First time I've seen you on video taking off right in front of the swimming pool. If you never had a leash a wipeout would make your surfboard a dinged crackup on the rocks in front of the pool.
The wide shots are better from the shore, it's difficult to get a true perspective of what you dealing with with the go pro in jou mond. Respect none the less.
Its an agave by @growblanks and @ecosurfsupply super happy with it. Feels better than a PU. Will do quiver video eventually. Just have so much to still edit and get out.
I guess with the swell angle a little less direct it'd close out less and you could start further up the point. Where you were at there seems to be a slightly deeper bit slowing the wave down a bit so you had like a snail's foot to the wave, or a boob, a mound with the original breaking wave like a nipple on top, which enabled you to catch the wave and ride just as it hollowed out again. A difficult take off because of that though, you had to time it well, if I've understood it correctly. It seemed to me it was hard to get into the wave but your timing was excellent which made it work. Could easily be way off base. :) If not, I may have a tip for you. Do you shift your position forward an inch or two on the board just before paddling for a wave? I don't know if it's a well known thing or not, it's just what I do, it makes catching the wave much easier and broadens the window of timing. For ordinary paddling you have the nose just out of the water, but in this forward take off position the nose naturally positions itself an inch or two under the water, and you have to arch your back up high to lift out the nose and keep it from digging in. As the wave reaches you though it starts dropping away below the nose and this is when you drop from the arched position and lie flat, this tilts your board a vital couple of degrees down the wave thus reducing the drag and increasing the acceleration so you get into it much more easily. You can catch uncatchably slow waves like this. Apologies if you already know about this, I just never talked about it to anyone and don't know if it's a well known thing or not. Just thought I'd share because it looked like ideal conditions to do it here.
Super good points, yes.. you pretty spot on. There was a deeper section, but there is no medical near me, and I don't have pvt med aid. Also, it was closing out 90% of the time. I usually do lean slightly forward, but then one needs to get on the back inside rail and cut the corner super fast. The board is slightly too wide, so surfing it off the front edge is slowing me down for the transition. Thanks for the view and the in-depth analysis 👍
@@scottyknowsurf Just to check you understood me correctly, I was talking about entirely before you stand up; the instant you have the wave (which would be earlier than without the technique) you arch your back up again for that moment of balance before jumping to your feet. I'd be interested actually if any other surfers use this method. And yeah you mentioned in the video a narrower one would be easier to set the rail for these waves. It did look ugly on take off, like a supertanker slushing all that water out of the way, I have to say :) Hope I'm not insulting your baby! I never had a wide board so I've no idea when one would want to use one or why. I guess for slower but hollow waves?
Yes I understood...I would say that arching your back would absorb too much time. One really needs to spring up fast. And yes the board is Def too wide.. was just exploring wider boards but that was evidently a mistake.
@@scottyknowsurf I love experimenting too. BTW you haven't understood the shift forward + arching of the back to keep the nose from digging in: this is only before the wave starts lifting me. I drop my head and keep paddling once the wave is under me eg. 5:05 - 5:12.0 = arched paddling, 5:12.0 - 5:13.0 = ordinary paddling (ie not arched), 5:13.5=would be standing, but you have to paddle 0.5-1s longer to get into it. Admittedly it's a wide board requiring more effort+time paddling and I'm not sure how much help the technique would be in this case. You have what I'd consider a late take-off mostly because of the board but you are obviously very used to it. Your timing is impeccable but I think you should try it sometime on a less wide board and slower waves. It definitely is an invaluable technique for me on some days. No need to reply, I know I'm being annoying. :)
I can promise you now any extra time on these waves and you are going to the cleaners. Scotty Knows Surf for a reason. Appreciate your good eye, though. But please don't try to kill me out there😅 truthfully pop should be instantaneous from the paddle in. There is zero time in certain waves and in others, arching the back for sure. But have you ever arched and popped your pelvis simultaneously to help get to your feet faster and more comfortably? Def a narrower board on the next order. Have a few videos yet to drop articulating this. For now it's leisurely surf at jbay. And thanks again for your interaction. Legend.
@@scottyknowsurf your welcome, I surfed their a few times in the 80s nearly drowned on one big day , It’s quite a heavy spot so I wouldn’t worry about a 100s of weekend warriors flooding the break. The pros have limited time and will be at JB so I don’t believe I’m selling u out - besides Durban needs the publicity. Nice footage by the way.
Getting alot of these comments, and I know you are all greatly mistaken, and yes, I have surfed the Ments on a decade Swell. We got nokandui, HTs 2nd and Third reef and maccas was firing for 4 days(it turns into a mini slab when its big) and Big bank vaults was my introduction. This edit probably looks like nothing to anyone. Those waves on my inside are double overhead. It's 3 ft deep and LESS in some zones with unnatural demolished land structure underneath. I don't think most of you have any idea of (how) gnarly it is. Not to mention, it has taken multiple lives. Though this controversy is good. It's been stacking the views. I would be the first person to call 10ft, 6ft. But no one really knows me or who I am and what experience I actually have. Classic. Welcome to the world of online. I just recently stepped up the filming pretty much one season in.