Great video. I just bought an old globe slicer. Mine has a lot of white enamel on it, which I like, for cleanliness. I searched online and saw someone who was rebuilding his old meat slicer. He mentioned how on the bottom of the slicer, where no meat would ever touch was so dirty. He figured it was taken to a lodge at some time and they chopped up deer on it, and all the juices ran down the slicer and built up on the underside of the slicer. Not anything I would ever think about, that there might be a lot of meat juices going places you can't see. You can obviously see pieces of meat, but old dried on meat and blood juice, perhaps that is something you would not be so easily seeing. I also saw a video of an older man explaining how to maintain an older Hobart meat slicer - he said do not lubricate them with olive oil, but to use a food save oil, to lubricate all the moving parts. He said olive oil is a good medium to harbor bacteria and it swells - the oil will move and swell and his oil he suggested to use did not do that. There are lots of areas on the slicers that need to be lubricated, top and bottom and sliders and rails, also I would think the motor could use regreasing or a bit of machine oil too from time to time.
Just bought one and paid $100. Works great!. One sharpening stone was missing and I bought a new set for $10. I found that there is a slotted adjustment for the sharpening stone assembly. Mine was set incorrectly and took me about 15 minutes to determine why it was not sharpening correctly and readjusted. Works perfect now!
I have just restored a Globe slicer that I found a date underneath the table dated March 1937. Also the blade has a serial number with the same date. It works great however there are some parts I may like to replace some time like the blade that wipes the cutting knife. If you ever find an outlet, let me know. Globe was no help at all. But the slicer works perfectly. Smooth action, and can cut cold beef roast paper thin. It's a little heavy. I estimate 150 pounds but at least your not chasing it across the table.
Thanks for the video, I couldn't find any info on this Globe either. Was thinking about buying the 150, but I am pretty lazy so i'd probably set myself up for getting sick. Thank you again for making the video.
Hi! Just picked up a globe gravity slice model 150 today from someone's basement! thank you for making this..I'm about to do a very deep clean. Digging into the underbelly. When I took off the blade I found a thick layer of beige grease. Is there a specific kind of food safe heavy duty grease I need to maintain the slicer? thanks again.
So does the center cover that you removed from the blade stay stationary while slicing? Or does it also spin with the blade? Seems to me it needs to not move since it's grooved to help product slide over it easily. I have same slicer but my center cover over the blade spins with the blade
I have the same question concerning the blade. I think the nut behind the chrome plate on the left does it. But do not want to do anything until I know for sure.
Hi I have the exact same slicer but its been in storage for so long that much of it is frozen up for example, it no longer slides, the thickness dial barley nudges etc. I need to take it completely apart to clean and grease. Do you know where I can get a manual for taking it apart and fixing it. One of my questions is How do I access the rods to grease them? Thanks for your help!!
Id take it apart and see if something has broken or is being held up by debris. They are very well built so breakage is doubtful. Hopefully its just seized or blocked. Sorry I cant be of more help.
Hello, I have the 660 model which is very simular to the 150. I was wonder on how to lube/grease the motor? Not sure whether to use grease for lube oil. Thanks
Never lube/grease the motor or you may shock yourself or ruin the motor. Its a dry system. If its not free moving you may need to separate the rotor from the motor and sand or wire brush what may be holding it back... "RUST or DIRT" That being said its not an easy job. I only use food grade oil on my kitchen tools that need oil. Good luck Nicky
Hi just picked one up today, question is dial is a little hard to turn for thickness i dont believe its been oiled what tyoe of oil do you put in the little hole
Hello , I just found this video . We have the same slicer in the firehouse and i just bought a new fiber knife plate gear (part # 747-17 ) I was wondering if that gear needs to be greased . I think grease my react with it since it's not a metal gear . Any help wold be appreciated .
Hey Ive got a similar model, maybe from about 1970 but cant get the actual knife off. Were you able to take the knife off yours? I tried prying the coupling off that sits in the middle of the blade with two flatheads but no luck.
Thanks for the view Julian . With the 150 model, there was 12 slot-head screws on the front side of the blade under the center cover that had to be removed before the blade would release. Hope this helps
Thanks for that. I have six screws like that and when I take them out the knife won’t budge so feels like there might be another trick. I’ll maybe try ask some butchers haha
Id also try penetrating oil for a night before you get to pissed off and pry on it. :) Last resort would be a little heat if you could. Depending when it was last taking off it could be basically welded on by shit lol
Hello, I have this exact model, not sure of the year though. I was wondering, did you ever find any info on this model? As I have also searched over the web and did not find much, did you ever find out how to remove the motor housing that has the little oil spout through it? I need to get to the motor and I can not figure out how to remove the bell shaped cover of the motor. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry Joe I can't remember how to remove it and I dont have it anylonger to refer too... Maybe post a video seeking tips...Everyone here on RU-vid has tons of "thoughts" lol Good luck hope you figure it out
the oil cup must be removed, it is pressed in. Wiggle it out with a pliers. Then there should be a "pinch screw" that holds the cover on. Remove that. Then the fun part. The cover will likely be rusted on the motor housing. Tap it off gently.
Hey Denise Ive since sold my slicer so I cant look for you sorry, but Id suggest you pull it apart and look for some obstruction or lever lock/tensioner adjustment ? I hope you get it figured out and if you do could you video it and reply to my video so mot of the info is there for others to use... Thanks so much Jamie
I got an old 150 for $50 and have it all freed up and working. However I have an problem. I can't find an exploded diagram of this slicer anywhere on the web. Does anyone know of a diagram for this slicer? Does anyone know of a person who works on old globe slicers? My problem is as follows. The wavy blade cover, the one that had the long bolt attached to it and passes through the center of the cuttings blade, it spins when I start the machine. I know that covernis supposed to stay in place and not rotate. What I found when I initially removed the mouse house cover was the nut holding the cover has been removed or spun off and was just laying in the bottom of the opening. If I install the nut and tighten it so there is no play on the cutting blade, the cover spins with the blade. This leads me to believe that there's supposed to be some sort of washer that goes between the cover plate and the bearing race. Any help solving this problem, or helping me find a person family with exactly with the parts involved the cutting blade cover and it's parts, the parts that hold it in place when the blade is cutting would be wonderful.. Sorry to ask this question in your RU-vid video comments, but I'm grasping at straws here. I need a little help. Thanks, Tom
I think I figured not out finally. If you look in the video, when that cover I say that spins with the blade when it's all tight, that cover is called the, " Center Plate ". In the video, when the center plate is removed, you see the bronze/gold bearing in the center of the knife blade (attached to the slicer not the center cover). That gold bearing, isn't a bearing that you are seeing, it's a, "Center Plate Shim". If you pull the shims out, you see a bearing and race, and a black seal. My machine has no shims. I guess the last owner lost the shims. I found the shims at OldHobartSlicerParts Dot Com. A pack of 12 shims are 12 bucks. Also, instead of a nut on that shaft that hold the center cover and blade together, there was a little acrylic handle with embedded nut. This allows you to take the balde out of the machine by hand. In order one of those as well. Just wanted to follow-up, and maybe this comment will help someone else in the future. Take care and I'll let you know of the shims fix the situation.
Glenn, I am having the same problem. The sliding arm seems to be locked and I can't figure out how to release it. If you have figured it out or it anyone else knows, I would greatly appreciate it. Same slicer, same model.
Sorry I missed your comment 8 mths ago Glenn! To Glen and Alexa Burley I left the slicer up at the cabin and I cant remember off hand if there is a lock or not. Id suggest you open all the gapes to the widest setting and try it again. My guess is the thickness is set to thin and its hitting on something or it could be just plain ceased... Vegetable oil is a good wd40 ;) Good luck and sorry i couldn't be more help
TVMii Thanks for getting back so quick. I called the Globe company and they said that the sliding arm was ceased up and might need new bushings. So I sprayed some PB Blaster on it and now am just waiting to see if it works.
I put some PB Blaster on it and it worked. Now I have to break it all down to clean it. It is still a little tight when it slides. I think if I break it all apart and grease the bushings it should run smoothly. Thanks for the words of encouragement.
A little late, but for future lookers: Once you remove the nut (or knob) on the backside of the machine that holds the center cover for the blade (knife), the blade(knife)/drive/gear should pull straight out toward you with a slight twisting motion to un-mesh the drive gears. At least that's how a model 75 I am working on assembles. The actual blade (knife) is held on to the drive with 12 small countersunk screws with slotted heads.
Encontrar piezas para las unidades más antiguas es, en el mejor de los casos, imposible ... Algunos suscriptores han fabricado sus propias piezas de repuesto debido a esto.
friend I have a problem with the slicer I'm missing a piece where it takes the gears that calibrate the size adjustment of the cut if you are in your hands a umaje of the piece
Buenos dias desde venezuela quisiera que alguin que alla desarmado las piezas del engranaje donde gradua las piezas el tamaño del corte porque no la trajo para tener una imagen de como hacerla si alguin puede se lo agradecería si pueden pasarme foto se lo agradecería a este numero 00584127665215
