Funny story, a few cars ago I used to take mine to a Valvoline shop to change the oil. After one such change, it was leaking oil from under the engine. Not much but it was annoying. Took it back to the shop, they "fixed" it, gave it back to me, it was leaking even worse. Took it back again, they gave it a once-over "we don't know why it's leaking". So I took it home and decided to find out for myself why. Guess what, they had reused the copper shim that goes around the oil plug. Same problem as here, once reused it won't fit properly. So I bought a 10-pack of shims which cost $1, and replaced it myself. Shoulda thought of annealing, but hey. I never went to that shop again (in fact I started changing the oil myself). They saved 10 cents on a part but lost a customer.
Previous oil changes before I got it they went full ugga dugga, so the oil fill plug now is not using a copper washer ( even though I have a nice collection of new ones) as seal, but instead uses thread string, as the thing is part stripped, and being steel I am very wary of going too tight in it now. New sump will be the solution, but will wait till it is clutch time before doing that, do a 2 fer on it as you need to split the box to get those last 4 bolts out.
@@SeanBZA Got myself one of those pumps that suck oil up through the dipstick tube. Sure it takes a bit more time than a regular oil change but it saves you from crawling under the car (never fun with a bad back) and fiddling with the plug. Still goes strong after 12+ years.
Just a note of caution: if you mig or tig weld, do NOT use brake cleaner. It produces phosgene gas and boy howdy it will kill you painfully and doesn't take much. You likely know this but felt like mentioning.
You don't need to go red hot to anneal copper. It doesn't particularly hurt it to go red, but you only really need about half that temp. Thought Id throw that out there in case someone is stuck with only a faulty bic lighter and a need to anneal something.
Half the temp and 10 times the time.... Nothing properly anneals in 10 seconds ... Who cares, if it doesn't work first time loctite anaerobic gasket goo works every time... town pump and all..
Do you need to quench it? I always thought you let it cool on it's own to anneal, but Ave mentioned quenching, I'm wondering if he just misspoke or if I have more to learn?
@@kadmow I anneal brass for my business. It does anneal in far less than 10 seconds and its not red hot. I mean this is simple enough for you to test, go get a piece of copper wire and bend it a few times then anneal it.
@@CCWSig For copper/brass you either quench or not it really doesn't matter. There's probably a minute difference with quenching but you likely couldn't measure it.
I usually have both, metric and inch size sets of all farstener tools I use often... When your "right" size tool strips or slips, the half size down on the other measurement set usually is tight as a bride and holds well...
If you sand the copper gasket down a bit and get rid of the indent it usually reseals. I've had to do it on a few oil drain plugs and brake caliper sealing washers
"Bob's your uncle" is a phrase commonly used in United Kingdom and Commonwealth countries that means "and there it is" or "and there you have it." Typically, someone says it to conclude a set of simple instructions or when a result is reached. The meaning is similar to that of the French expression "et voilà!"
Copper anneal: heat then you must quench. Just allowing it to air cool will harden it. Steel is just the opposite where quenching makes it harder and air cooling softens it.
Although I have failed to detect any occasion where you have learned from me ( If you will reread every comment ever posted here you will find that I have tried to edify you [ intellectually not morally, I ain't got that kind of time or energy on my hands] once or twice) ....Where was I goin' with this? Oh yeah! I was trying to say that you make me smarter all the time (so unfair) and even after working in the "electrohydromechanicaldigital fixin' shit" trade for 42 years that Torx trick is a new'on on me. Of course, Torx was new to me for more than a third of that career, so that and all the booze I consumed on the job once I saw that no one was training Industrial Maintenance men any longer could account for that. Seriously, good tip, love your channel!
Can you take a look at an induction heater piupiu/wand, the ones they use to remove bolts, wondering if it is worth it instead of an acetylene/oxygen torch, just for that reason. Oh and mainly talking about those 1kW max ones, not the 5kW monsters.
I seem to recall you mention a bubblegum trick for getting you out of a dilly of a pickle if you've been blowing seals - the mint stuff is most effective.
Great tip on the Cu washer thing - and SO EASY (did I mention FREE?)!!! After a couple years I'm getting to where I can track most of your sentences without rewinding. Kanuckian sense of hummer bees much easier than the brits' don't you know. So does one DARE to ask for yer resistance here? Can't think of anyone more likely to be able to conjure up a hint, and it may be a simple one for ye? Gots a Makita router (woodworking, not WiFi - tisk tisk) that has a plastic case and base which, theoretically, ain't SUPPOSED to be inseparably hitched at the hip. Sadly, my manly manliness cannot seem to move the base (the crude way one adjusts the cutting depth, not being a plunge router) with all the force I dare without likelihood of breaking something. Can't IMAGINE what's preventing it from complying with my wishes, but -- perhaps there's some manner of penetrating lubricAnt that wouldn't risk dissolving the plastic and thus fusing it back together even worse? Dunno - would love to show a pic, but this being a family show and everything.... Perhaps I need to cut my losses, move on, break the handles/base off and strap the thing into a homebrew CNC that I have only imagined so far? Naw - that's a limp-wristed cop-out. Ugly please???? no cherry
To fix rounded off allen/torx,/phillips/robertson heads, don't wreck another tool. Give a couple hefty tappy-tap-taps on the screw head with a drift or extension bar about the diameter of the head, then try again. The cammed out metal of the head is forced back down into the fastener allowing a tight fit with the bit
Why did the thread strip out? And why the hell is there a hole in the piston? 😂😂😂 Tries it out: "Let's see what we have to fix next." "Juhu, it works! Oh, I destroyed the gage..." 😂😂
I work with hydraulic cylinders, we have metal disks with rubber insides instead of copper. You can use them more than once(though you shouldn't) and copper ones are probably easier to get a hold of. What pressure is this cylinder operating with? Because I would never stand that close to a leaky cylinder since ours operates at 700 bar
Whatever you do never ever weld a part that you cleaned off with brakleen because the main ingredient in it when exposed to heat and argon turns into phosgene which is super deadly.
Because motorbikes aren't dangerous enough, and brakes aren't a critical component, you can try this trick on the crush washers that secure your brake line banjo bolts. Godarn things are like $7 apiece, no es bueno.
Pretty much EVERYTHING on a motorcycle costs more. Tires, holy crap. Get the tire changed in a shop, you're lucky if you're out of there under $100, just for the work. Oil change, better do it yourself. The oil has less additives and premium whatevers added, but to the wallet it seems as if it's the downpayment for an engagement ring.
That's what happens with specialty markets, quantity matters when it comes to pricing. Can get an oil change in a semi for around $275($350ish at dealerships), that's 10 gallons of oil filters and a full grease job.
Hey for once I knew what to do about the washer. Knowledge acquired from annealing brass rifle shell necks that have become work hardened from repeated firing and resizing in a die press.
So a penguin brings his car in for repair the mechanic tells him give me a half an hour and I’ll have your problem diagnosed the penguin goes for a walk gets an ice cream only having flippers he gets ice cream all over himself. Walks back to the repair shop The mechanic says it looks like you blew a seal. The penguin says no it’s just ice cream
Look up "Cold spray" for repairing weird parts like this. New tech and prohibitively expensive for youtube, but it applies 3 thou of metal at a time to soft alloys.
Damnit man!! I guess you forked up today, because I LEARNED something from you today... LOL. Really, I did.. I've had my share of issues with used copper washers... Makes total sense that they "work harden".. As for annealing, known that for years.. I've worked with some decommissioned copper ground wire from the power company... It's hard!!! It's much easier to work with after annealing 😎 So, now.... That brings up the question, is ground wire made hard????? Or does it work harden with age??? Thanks for the video AvE!!! I'm assuming you cleaned up the oil mess on the deck, before the misses stepped in it😎
