Good video. I’m just finishing up putting the fuel rail back and now looking at reinstalling the intake. To be honest, taking it out was a bear, AC line in the way had to be gently tweaked a bit with much frustration. I noticed you made no note of alternator removal. That too was tough as the lowest bolt backed up into the AC line trapping my ratchet box wrench and the mistake was time consuming, a mistake my mechanic brother warned me about. For those interested in ratcheting box wrenches be sure to get the finger lever reversible set.
Intake manifold is torqued in sequence first 44in-lbs first pass then 89in-lbs final pass. Hence the wobble extension and it easily gets the one by the firewall using 1/4 torque wrench.
I'm in the process of taking mine off now. Got stuck on removing that bracket, you're right, can't see how it's mounted to the intake. I'll try to get the intake out without removing it. Got the radio on, trying to be patient! 2005 Buick Rainier 4.2l. Thanks for making this video
I'm glad I removed it first. Even if you can get it off without removing the bracket, I think that it will be impossible to reassemble correctly with it there.
@@MRM-wp4gr Spending more time getting wiring disconnected and things out of the way to do do the job. I'm going to take the alternator off and see if I can get to the bolt from the front. Then comes the bolt in the back by the firewall. I didn't plan on that bracket being a problem. It's great having videos from those that have gone before us!
Just to let others know that are contemplating doing this job, it is very doable, you really have to enjoy working on your vehicle though. It took me a weekend to get this done, intake manifold and valve cover gaskets. I painted my valve cover and let it dry while I cleaned up the mating surface on the block. It's very rewarding to complete this job. Watch as many videos as you can from guys that have done this and be sure you have all possible tools ahead of time. The 1/4" 10mm deep socket saved the day on the rear intake bolt, slim enough to get back in there. I needed a helper to lift the AC line up so I could get the valve cover back in place. Thanks again MRM for posting this video, it was a big help
Agreed!! Gm engineers should be required to work on this shit. The wireing on this vehicle is an absolute mess!! I’ve had vehicles get me upset but I’m telling ya. I was ready to stick a rag in the tank and watch the hunk of junk burn!! Just wait until you need to pull the timing cover! Oil pan has to come off and the front axle runs right through the oil pan and is part of the front diff
Just did this job and couldn't get the last firewall bolt to go back on. Now I have a p306 error code. Im thinking it's causing an air leak as opposed to an actual issue with the no. 6 injector which I also replaced new. What a huge pain in ass this job is.
Disconnect the NEG terminal first, then positive, remove the PCM along with the plastic clamps (might as well do the THERMOSTAT while you are in there)-along with the waterpump/fanclutch way easier. Replace the PCV Rubber hose on the intake $6 off amazon OEM. It is not a that bad if you use a HOSE pick for the wiring plastic clamps (and/or PICK SET). Use a *WOBBLE EXTENSION with shallow 10mm* mine is Snap-on so gets into the tight places the one up by the firewall. Also, TORQUE the Intake Manifold and Valve cover I think 89in-lbs.
Do you think it's possible to remove and replace that PCV "dirty hose" without touching anything else - just only do that PCV hose so I can clean out that nipple that goes into the crankcase? thanks. I ordered the new part. How do I use the "pick" - what pick set do you recommend? The Harbor Freight reviews say the tools just turn and break. haha. I've never used a pick to undo a clamp before. thanks
I pulled out the Battery and removed the old dry-rotted plastic wire loom with *TESA TAPE* you will thank me later. being 15 years old as with any truck/suv plastic dry-rots and will leave the wires exposed leading to dead shorts or electrical nightmare. Hence the reason to pull the battery out, them plastic wire looms will rub/vibrate on the bare wires along with moisture from rain ruin the wiring. I spent a few hours cleaning it all up, you can't buy a new vehicle for the preventive maintenance. Also, replace the Throttle body (as it can't be cleaned correctly it has plastic gears in it) along with coil-packs/plugs. I went with OEM parts as the others lasted many years. Idles perfectly now.
No wonder the local mechanic who used to work at a Chevy dealer wanted me to trash the TB. haha. I had no idea you have to remove the intake manifold just to get at the spark plugs? Holy smokes.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 um, you don't lol. To get the the spark plugs, all you have to do is remove the air intake, engine resonator then the coil packs, and boom you're at the spark plugs
@@Cs39601 I just had Valvoline do the oil and the "tech" was complaining about the filter. So if I ever change my own oil I'll get that filter with the 3/8" nut on it - the K&N filter? hmm.
Do you think I could put that Positive Crankcase Valve Hose on without touching ANYTHING else? haha. I want to clean out that "nipple" that goes into the crankcase - I hear it clogs up, creating a positive pressure that destroys the engine VVT, etc. Also it's the reason the throttle body has to be cleaned all the time from the blowback clogged up going in reverse direction back into the air box.
@@MRM-wp4gr thanks for the reply. I just ordered the "Lisle’s hose remover pliers" - if you look that up on youtube - can you let me know if you think it might get the hose off? I looked at the hose again. I ordered a new hose from Rock Auto also. So let's assume the old hose breaks. I got some other needle pliers to put back on the new hose also - the Pittsburgh set from Harbor Freight. hmm. I don't know! I asked the person who put out the PCV hose vids on how that PVC hose clogs up to destroy the engine. So I'm hoping he responds back. He's telling people to pour B-12 Berryman into that nipple that goes into the crankcase. So... it's kind of a big risk because I DEFINITELY do NOT want to take off or pay someone to take off that intake manifold!! haha. No one wants to do that anyway - my two local mechanics blacklisted me. haha. So I better not risk it - unless that other dude thinks I really can pull it off. He already blacklisted me since I accidentally sprayed CRC Throttle Body cleaner through the OTHER "clean" PVC Hose that goes right into the camshaft. haha. My engine survived barely - it sounded bad so I put LUcas in it and then got a couple oil changes right in a row. Seems fine now - I put MMO in the gas to lubricate the valves.... I don't know - Probably should just stick with MMO - add a Pint for the last 500 miles before an oil change - and NOT break something that isn't broken!! thanks for the advice.
@@MRM-wp4gr I just got the Innova 3100 and I have no codes. My mileage is good. So - even at 267K - it seems promising. Just got the suspension redone so the car is 2 inches higher now. haha. Also a much smoother ride.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 I don't know if those pliers will work or not....main problem is you can't see what you need to see without removing things to get the clamps off.
@@MRM-wp4gr OH - thanks for that clarification. That's funny since I realized late last night that I would have to use the boroscope to be able to see. haha. I'm gonna get the boroscope out to see if that helps. I discovered those Pittsburgh hose clamp pliers and the reviews said people used them for PVC vacuum hoses. So that gives me some hope this is possible. I'll first check the Air Box for blowback oil - and clean that out to see what comes out of it. I couldn't feel much negative pressure when I put a thumb over the oil filler tube. So I figure this will be good preventative maintenance - better than just using some MMO each OCI. hmm. Thanks for your feedback. I still gotta think about whether I want to "break something" first before I "fix it." haha.
One failed design on top of others.. some real assholes designed this garbage. Everyone i know that has had these engines have had the Oil leak into the spark plug wells. Could be that over time the valve cover experiences enough crepe that the designed compression Simply does work. Not enough structural ribbing to keep it flat enough to seal. Really needs another set of bolts down the middle lengthwise.. every gm ive had has had seal /gasket problems.. drives me crazy.
