@@Elmax-c7f т.е. вы утверждаете, что "эпало" у токаря недвижимо относительно детали? Нет очков, защитных экранов и возможности стать сбоку от детали? Или то, что пружина полностью закрывает все щели и ничего не вылетит?
Вопрос: у меня изношен тормозной диск на моте, от 5мм остались лишь 3 мм. Можно тоже так расточить - чтоб бортиков не видно было ? Чтоб дальше ездить. У нас каждые 2 года надо проходить технадзор - чтоб там никто не заметил что тормозной диск уже стерся.
The spring is there to absorb the vibrations. Without it, the rotor will produce lots of loud and annoying noise. The noise will also cause the rotor to not be cut incorrectly and you will get grooves.
@stinkybevah4361 not all the time. Moat shops if not any do this anymore.. it used to be a way to get a customer back on the road if they didnt have the money for new ones and if they weren't to bad or low to cut. Issue is it takes up too much time and isnt so safe becaus of peoples negligence in getting new ones in a timely manner
Rotors these days aren't designed to be turned anymore. Taking all that metal down makes em get hotter faster making them fade faster when you really need them in a hard stop. Replace not turn. Fuckin noobs
I repaired a lathe that was given to me 25 years ago. I'm the only person in or around my city that has a working lathe. I offer service of resurface drums and rotors manly on classic cars and medium duty trucks. Today this makes for a great side gig as I'm retired and could use a little extra cash to play with.
Nice! I usually have to go to a local parts store to get it done. The price of a new rotor on many cars is often not much more than the price of resurfacing. Well, it tends to be when I buy brake kits from online auto parts stores. Usually I go through the trouble of getting rotors turned because almost all new rotors are made in China. Made in China makes me very angry. When I pull of a way of not buying new Chinese products, I say "Screw the reds."
I hate how we normalized allowing parts manufacturers to get away with selling rotors at the bare minimum thickness products. Such a huge waste of money and material.
@@PinChE_LoCo the minimum amount of weight from rotor thickness is so minute it's irrelevant at everything you've listed. It's not a race car where every oz of weight matters. Its a freaking civilian car / truck. There's unnecessary weight everywhere including OEM wheels which are usually super heavy. Definitely outweighs the rotor thickness weight... What consumers need are repairable parts that save cost instead of having to purchase an entire new set of parts which manufactures make a killing off of.
I was about 9 or 10 when my dad moved me up from changing brakes and oil to resurfacing Drums/Rotors. I’m 32 now and appreciate everything he’s ever shown me. I know he was tough but, only had the best intentions
You’re a great son. I REALLY hope you can tell him just what you wrote here. I believe he would be happy and proud to have such a …. 100 words will fit here but it all boils down to respect for your father and knowing he did his best for his family. … so, such a respectful son ! 🙏❤️🩹
My father was an electrician. However he did DIY some stuff on his car and on mom's car. He taught me the basic tool skills needed. I learned the more complex things. When I was in elementary school or kindergarten, I saw dad in the driveway. This would have been maybe 1989, 1990, or 1991. The hood of his car was open and the engine was on. I ran out and said "Dad! You can't do that! The engine is on!" He then explained that oil is changed with the engine off. Changing antifreeze requires the engine on. I think he may have explained engine thermostats, but I wouldn't remember. Back when all cars had the silicate green antifreeze, dad changed it once a year. He said it got the most out of those cars. Either he was under the hood of his 1987 Hyundai Excel or mom's 1985 Nissan Maxima at that time.
The last time I bought OE replacement rotors was for a 2008 Chrysler T&C and straight out of the box they did not have enough meat on them to even turn 1 time. Rotors are pretty much use once,....... then replace when you need new pads.
@@kenneely7899 I feel like if you went 150k on 1 set of rotors without resurfacing them or replacing them you either A: Don't need a 3/4 truck or B: Were not safe on the road.
Very satisfying. I havent turned rotors in years because new ones arent much more than the turning unless its 1/2 ton+ Last ones I did were off a f250. Theyre usually so wrecked its not even worth trying to turn them.
I have a set of rotors with about 200k miles on them. The key to keeping them from warping is to use a torque wrench on your lug nuts. Make sure they are all the same number and they will stay true. The impact guns with the torque sticks get them close but you will find 20 ft lbs different from the tightest to the lowest. As soon as you get home from having new tires put on use your own torque wrench and do them to spec. Keeps them straight. The ones I have a slotted and drilled and need replacement not because they are warped but because they are below spec thickness. They were expensive and cold treated to make them hard. Buy nice ones and torque your nuts even and you may never need another set. I never had them refinished either..
It has very little to do with the torque spec of your wheels. They warp from heat, not from being miss aligned. Besides your only holding onto the center of the rotor with the lug nuts so that leaves the whole outside to warp and move if they get too hot. Drilled and slotted like you said you have tend to not warp as of then because they can dissipate heat a lot better. Still not sure how you got 200k though without a major lip on the rotors outside edge unless you do have one.
Or people riding their brakes hard all the time or living in an area with lots of steep hills will warp them way faster, I definitely don't torque my lugs to spec but I'm definitely not overkilling them to where it would cause warpage, talk about sending them home with an impact, I just zip them down to bottomed out and use my breaker bar since I don't have any torque wrenches of my own, still the stock set of rotors but they have thinned a little
@@trujilloproductions chatter is when the workpiece vibrates due to too much cutting pressure. Makes an awfull noise and leaves a terrible finish. Now how the spring stops that from occuring i cannot tell as i have never seen this be done yet, nor am i experienced enough anyways
@@АллаЛим-ы1мyou measure the thickness, factory specs require a minimum thickness for heat dissipation and to prevent fractures. Outside face to inside face.
A dead stop on the side can maybe ruin the rotor, a dead stop on the circumference would likely damage or destroy the machine along with the rotor. The spring saves you from yourself since youll see it snag and stop if it touches the machine while the rotor can still spin. Its an early warning system of failure. Also slightly absorbs harmonic differences in the part but if it cant spin balanced at that rate, it will destroy itself and/or the hub/axle bearing at highway speed.
@@andrej.babichevединственный адекватный комментарий. Реально задолбала уже эта секта любителей точить тормоза. СКА кого поймаю готов по рукам пиздить.
I dont bother resurfacing rotors. I just get new ones. They don’t cost much with respect to how long you use them. Saves the hassle of leaving your car sitting on stands while taking your other car into a shape.
This is a procedure that can be used if the brake discs are noticeable due to squeaking noises or if the brake rubs slightly due to the effect of heat. The prerequisite is that the minimum size is not undercut. Это процедура, которую можно использовать, если тормозные диски заметны из-за скрипящих звуков или если тормоз слегка трется из-за воздействия тепла. Обязательное условие - минимальный размер не должен быть подрезан.
Back in high school when our shop teacher wore ear plugs and shop glasses, we learned so much more in that 4 yrs of shop class then I ever did out in the world
Love resurfacing rotors when i was working Kragen/O'Reilly. I just can't believe how much they charge nowadays, may as well buy new rotors every time now.
Given what I buy brand name rotors for from online parts stores, I get rotors turned for one reason. I like trying not to buy new shit from Red China. I barely save by having rotors machined at OReillys. However, when I do it, I laugh and say "Screw the reds!"
For those who are wondering this is known as trimming rotors, don't throw away your old rotors unless they are too small to work anymore. You can go to almost any mechanic shop and get them trimmed.
No one calls it trimming rotors lol where are you from??? This is called cutting rotors or resurfacing rotors no one says trimming I've never heard that in my 30 years as a technician
Точу сразу три плоскости с одной установки и отлично выходит. Уже лет 20. Сервис Тойота - Лексус каждый день по 4 таскали на Крузаки и Лексусы. Сколько я их уже переточил и никаких пружин. Токарный станок, руки и мозг😂
Минимальная толщина даётся производителем с большим запасом, чтобы им не предъявили какие нибудь балбесы с хреном в голове, у которых с этими дисками что-то плохое произойдёт. По факту же можно смело кататься и дальше, как минимум ещё комплект колодок износить. Бортики только желательно снять, чтобы вся плоскость работала и на новых колодках чтобы края не стачивать. 😊
Well, now, yeah. But back in the day rotors were thicker, you would have them turned and throw on new pads 2 or 3 times before you had to worry about the minimum thickness. Back then, a rotor might cost $50-60 and it would cost less than $10 to have it turned. Figure about 3x as much in today's money. They don't make things like they used to.
@@R6_top_bronze yea they def still do it just as long as rotor has enough material on it to do so. So it just depends on the rotors condition and thickness.
I am still turning the rotors on my Hunter BL505 . Before machining I am checking the thickness of the rotor and if is enough metal left , turn them in couple passes just to make them smooth. Today prices on new rotors are cheap but they are also cheap quality , and when I see original factory rotors on the vehicle I try to save them , just slightly shave them and put them back . They will last longer then some new cheap aftermarket crap. I am using the spring to absorb vibrations and make smooth and even cut but also using the silencer for quieter shop. After all this years still enjoying doing it.
I agree. But it does depend on what the cost of replacements are and what they are going on. People fail to factor in lots of things when they talk about turning rotors. Like claiming it only costs 10 dollars or so. If that is the case which most likely it is not nowadays they also forget to factor in time spent driving to machine shop and time wasted in general. Time is money after all. Obviously some people might have a machine to do it and others might know someone. All I'm saying is sometimes it's worth it and sometimes it isn't but nowadays it is much more rare then it ever was before. Most modern mass produced cars can get aftermarket rotors for 50-100 dollars a pair.
Ага, китайская дрянь конечно три копейки стоит а я ориг японский диск на машину может стоит как жигуль, по тому что метал а не пресованый рис и после проточки будет ходить и ходить
На большинство машин диски стоят 3-4 тыс за штуку, токарю тоже платить надо, и получаешь более тонкий диск близкий к пределу Проточить можно конечно, если другого выхода нет
If your wanting to know why the spring is on...stops the harmonic vibration and nasty sounds etc... Or you could wrap an inner tube instead ..does the same ❤
One- The Spring dampens the resonance of the drum so it won't vibrate and go out of spec during resurfacing. Two - The Spring stops the long-term exposure to sounds that damage your hearing
Я пружину не пойму зачем,а диски протачивали всегда,потому что он на это рассчитан,раньше делали у токарей,а сейчас в хороших мастерских есть спецстанки которые точат диски не снимая с машины,а тут столько понаписали не зная что яне знаю даже что сказать,по вашим словам владельцы тойот устали бы эти диски покупать,а так проточил,если допуск позволяет,у каждого диска есть свой допуск износа,новые колодки и вуаля,а писать не зная что пишеш ну как минимум несолидно
@@УмарЭбзеев-ф6э ещё зависит от авто , на Лексусе это пустая трата денег. Сколько мы их не точили даже на новых дисках , хватало на пару недель. Только замена диска .
Перегретый диск точить нельзя. Да и бесполезно. Он все равно внутри остается деформированный, да и очаги закалки никуда не деваются. Такой диск поведет снова, это лишь вопрос времени. На автомобиле сэкономить не получится. Вообще никак. Покупайте новые диски, не занимайтесь ерундой. Хорошие бюджетные бренды - Sensen, LYNX, NIBK. Чуть дороже - Zimmermann, TRW. Недавно на Рав4 19 года менял диски вкруг, вместе с колодками кашияма. Сами диски Цимерманн. Обошлось 32000р. Считаю, что это недорого.
Я тоже не понимаю наличие пружины. Под действием центробежной силы грязь и стружка никогда туда не залетит. А если и залетит, например, при остановке диска, то можно выдуть воздухом. А если не выдует, то само вылетит в движении. В эти отверстия при движении авто набивается грязи и фрикционной пыли мама не горюй.
Она нужна, чтобы гасить резонанс. При проточке диска звон стоит. Я обычно во внутрь со стороны ступицы мокрую тряпку запихиваю, но можно и как на видео пружину
У меня как то повело новые диски после установки. А подшипник двухрядный. просто так не снимешь. После подобной обработки все стало отлично. Хорошая технология.
@@joegreer1012 he didn't even do a non-directional cut to keep the pads from trying to ride up the rotors. A N-D cut was a necessary step in mid 90s with carbon and ceramic enhanced pads like Chevrolet lumina and olds cutlass supreme
It’s the best way if you have your original rotors and they are within tolerance to resurface. You will get cheap rotors that will rust on the vane side in weeks from those companies. Unless you do your research and buy from other reputable online vendors.
@@alphasheep99 Trebalo je prvo vanjski i unutarnji dio poravnati gdje ide na glavičinu ležaja. Kada se to napravi, onda ide ravnanje kočione površine.
I didn’t know that shops were still doing this because of how inexpensive a rotor is now. Not to mention that the resurfaced rotor is probably not to spec after cutting it down.
Brake discs are large diameter but quite thin, likely to vibrate and sing while being machined. That spring is to stop it vibrating while being machined thus improving the quality of the surface finish.
if that machine is automatic, that would be very nice. But it takes time to manually set up each cut. Multiply that times for rotors seems time-consuming, but looks like it would do a good job.
Back in the day you could drop off your rotors, get em cut and put back on the car. I learned the hard way why you don't cut below the limit. 1st hard braking and they immediately warped and the whole front end would vibrate badly.
@@alexustas5073 недавно только пескоструил и чистил тормозные диски сверлом, за 12 лет там горы ржи и грязи вышло, а любой уважающий себя человек любит содержать своё рабочее место в чистоте, поэтому помимо того что гряз будет лететь в лицо наблюдающему, она еще засрет его рабочее место.
@@bunkaigermany nein die Späne fliegen kontrolliert in eine Richtung was du bei einem sich lösenden Rostpartikel nicht sagen kannst, das kann dich, wenns dumm läuft verletzen
What would happen if somebody were to weld up the braking surfaces before resurfacing them back to factory spec? Would the braking surfaces be harder than before, more brittle, would it wear faster, or would it make little/no difference?
Там с диска сняли пару десяток всего, толщина диска ещё большая и в допуске, скорее всего просто немного повело диск из за попадания воды после долгого торможения, так что ещё 50к отходит!
Не знал что роль пружины для гашения звука .Молодцы ремонтники .И не надо критиковать якобы диск станет тоньше ведь есть технические требования на толщину.
@@monkey2god998Generally, about half the cost, but if they end up under minimum spec, about 1.5x the cost. Only a good/experienced shop should be trusted, as even those weren't done completely, and you could tell by variation in color on the finished surface in the end. Uneven surface = Uneven wear.
@monkey2god998 Some Orielly locations will do them and if they end up under spec, they don't charge you the fee if you buy a new one there. (Some really good stores won't charge you even if you don't buy new ones.)
Ору с додиков в комментариях. Да диск становится немного тоньше. Но не так критично как вы себе это представляете. Он же не стачивает его до оребрения. Вопрос в каких то 0.5 мм. В любом случае когда будут ставить этот диск обратно на автомобиль нужно ставить новые колодки и прокачивать тормоза. При том что биения больше не будет. Если конечно токарь нормально выставил диск относительно базовых поверхностей.
@@ПавелБанкаев Ну просто если решился обслужить тормоза. То было бы неплохо заменить колодки, поменять смазку направляющих тормозного суппорта, заменить жидкость тормозную. А то вы из-за проточки тормозного диска пенитесь. А об остальном запамятовали? Если что, то тормозную жидкость тоже желательно менять. Ибо она набирает в себя влагу и теряет свои свойства. Понижается температура кипения. Плотность и тому подобное. Конечно дело каждого. Но я поступаю так.
Wish i could find someone that can resurface rotors where I live! I worked at a shop when i was 18 and we had a snap on brake lathe. That was the last time Ive had rotors done that lasted. Had 2 sets turned by local shops and they warped quickly
With the prices gone up for new rotors it’s a great idea to get them shaved if they have enough width to them I went to buy new ones each rotor was just over $100 each it cost me $20 each to shave off
А потом происходят серьёзные ДТП когда диски лопаются при экстренном торможении, их поэтому меняют из-за износа, а не стачивают его. Ну кто хочет убить себя или других, делайте.
Не ужели они так дорого стоят , я менял на своей тачке , внимание комплект (2) стоит 3500 , смысл , да их грубо говоря можно с заменой колодок менять ёмаё , я думал они 20000 где то стоят а тут копейки !
@@ЭдуардТроян-з5в твои диски за 3500 после первой лужи поведет, а заводские это другое качество. Другое дело если ты купил б/у авто после 10 хозяев и там всё мертвое, тогда да, можно поменять.
Certain on jamais rien compris à la sécurité, en France sa ce fais pas car c'est hors des normes de sécurité de la sécurité routière et du CT, mais faut il comprendre que l'épaisseur du disque est conçue pour supporter le freinage du véhicule avec une marge d absorption d'un freinage d'urgence, quand vous enlever les lèvres d'usure le disque est bon pour les trottinettes mdrrr 🤔🏆💪 vous êtes des champions
there was a time when this was normal, i had it done in my first two cars. Every workshop and every mechanic could do it, and it was much cheaper than new discs. something like this cost almost nothing
A Brake lathe still has it's place in the automotive repair shop, The youngsters and critics / haters will tell you otherwise. This being the case in older and vintage vehicles where replacement rotors are not available or just are junk China parts. It's not for every brake job done since many of the newer(not all) min. cut spec are too close.
Turning rotors is pretty rare these days. For a lot of cars, new is cheaper, and when it's not cheaper, it's a bitch to find anyone with a brake lathe.
Por favor en vez de rectificar discos compralos nuevos. Ya q si quitas material a un disco desgastado. Eso hará q se caliente más y se reduzca mucho la eficiencia de frenada y es una pieza de seguridad y te puedes jugar la vida. Tan poco vale tu vida como para jugartela o a alguien q te acompañe en ese coche? En una frenada de emergencia.
I ised to do this all the time, now for most cars The material is so thin that while it's possible If it had good wear, It's just doesn't happen as much. You end up having to take more off than what is considered minimum spec.
