Godox SL150W II Review & Comparison (They Fixed the Fan Noise!) 

Thanks! And for sure. The SL60W is fantastic on a strict budget, but I do think 150W is the sweet spot that works for beginners, but is also bright enough to last in your kit a long time. The VL200 is another 1/2 stop brighter, so even better :)

The SL150W II and G100W are pretty different. The SL150W II is almost 2 full stops brighter, much quieter, and has a better build quality. The G100W is bi-color, so it depends on whether you need or want a bi-color light. If you're shooting indoors in a controlled environment, I'd go with the SL150W II, but, I actually have a G100W for sale if you're interested in a really good deal, which might make it worth it. If so, DM me on Instagram @newlayercom

Thanks! Too late on the hair though, I cut it a couple days ago. I'd give it a 6/10 (the haircut). I was super excited about the UL150 until this one was announced for ~$100 less. It has easily claimed the spot of my #1 recommended budget light at this power level.

Personally I'd rather have 2 SL150W II for a few reasons. 1. You can control them both from the same remote 2. The SL150W II is as bright as the VL150, and the X60 is much dimmer, so the pair of SL150W II would be much flexible and brighter overall 3. Color matching the lights wouldn't be a problem The VL150 comes with a case and has native v-mount support though, so if you need that, then it's a stronger consideration.

@@NewLayer thanks for the opinion!

@@NewLayer Can you control SL150W II and SL200W II from the same remote?

@@vlinnus Yes!

Nice! The prices on these lights fluctuates a good amount, so always worth checking. The Nanlite FS series also looks very promising. I’m waiting to get some for a review :)

No, the SL150W is the original, and looks totally different. Those had louder fans. The SL150W II that look like this all have quiet fans 👍

It's as good as any other 150 watt continuous light, but continuous lights are meant for video. If you are only doing photography, get strobes, because even a tiny, cheap strobe will be much, much brighter than a continuous light. If you do photo and video, continuous lights can work. Video is typically shot around 1/50 sec, ISO 400-1600, and f/4-5.6, while a lot of photographers want 1/125 sec, ISO 100, and f/8-16, so it's a huge difference in the amount of light needed to get those settings.

You are talking about the original SL200W yeah? The original SL series is great, but has a few drawbacks. They are significantly louder and have less consistent color accuracy. So while they are good, they may range from 5100-5600K instead of 5400K-5600K or so like the Mark II series. The Mark II lights are about 1/3 stop brighter as well, so the SL150W II is essentially the same brightness as the SL200W Mark I. If those things don't matter then you can buy whichever is cheaper. I hope that helps :)

Thanks for the answer!@@NewLayer

It is an LED, and although it might get warm or hot, you just put the cap on it and can pick it up immediately. It produces hard light until you put a modifier like a softbox on it. The stock reflector it comes with focuses the hard light as well. And yes, one good thing about COB lights with a Bowens mount like this is that they can be hard or soft 👍

@@NewLayer Fantastic. Thank you soooo much for replying 👌🏼

Yep, I believe Rob Hall compared them and a couple other lights in a video and that was the case. I measured all these lights and... - The FV200 was 8670 Lux and the VL200 was 8470 Lux, so essentially identical. - The SL150W II was 6780 Lux, and the VL150 was 6580 Lux, so again, essentially identical. Through the almighty power of the transitive property, that would mean that an FV200 and SL200W II are functionally identical in brightness. With the SL Mark II upgrade, the SL, VL, UL, and FV brightness can all be considered equal, even if it varies by a few hundred Lux. At these brightness levels, 200-300 Lux is nothing but a variance in manufacturing. Even the original SL150W is within 1/3 stop of the new 150 watt lights of the other series. Unless you really want the flash capabilities, I would highly recommend the SL150W II, because the flash output of the FV series really is not much brighter than the continuous light. A VL300 would be a better choice than the FV200 in my opinion, because it's basically the same brightness as the FV200 flash, but in continuous form, if that makes sense. I reviewed the FV200 here if it helps: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XbzPndcSKbI.html

How bout SL, SL II, FV, VL, and UL? :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2DEuihHpJ00.html

Nice! That's one of its issues is that some fans are way quieter than others, so you don't know what you're going to get. They definitely are better now than they used to be overall though.

I am so glad this helped you so much. When I first started getting into testing video lights, I went through 5-6 before I found one that worked for my needs, so I know how frustrating that can be. It's the whole reason I started reviewing gear :) The UL150 is bigger and heavy (has to be to dissipate heat), and also the controller is separate from the head, so you have the head > cord > controller > cord > ac adapter/cord > wall. Same with the VL. I don't think turning the fan off will effect the longevity of the LED all that much because it drops to ~36% power output, so runs cooler. These things last a very long time, so I honestly wouldn't worry about that with the SL150W II. The biggest consideration between the SL150W II with the fan off and the UL150 is that the UL150 will be 1 1/3 stops brighter since it can run at full power. The SL150W II head is the "heaviest" because it has the controller and AC adapter built into the head itself, but it's way less cumbersome because you just have the head and the cord. The VL and UL you have 5-6 pieces to set up every time, which I find annoying. I don't really need v-mount support so I don't find that setup as useful. It still doesn't feel like a super heavy beast of a light or anything. I'm not sure when the UL150 will be readily available, so that's another consideration. It may be 1-2 months more of waiting + another ~$100 cost. I think you'd be very happy with the SL150W II, but I guess it's impossible to really say. I hope that helps, let me know if you have any other specific questions.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful. If you see it without the W, there's no difference. In the past, Godox made SL150W (daylight) and SL150Y (tungsten), but there's only daylight versions of the new lights :)

Glad I could help!

Glad it was helpful! I have a big video (already written, just have to record it) comparing all the differences between the SL, SL II, FV, VL, and UL series that should finish off my Godox reviews nicely. Hopefully coming this month.

@@NewLayer I've subscribed already man. I'm already anticipating that video...

@@TechOverWatch Thanks for the support! New video coming Monday on the NiceFoto HA-3300B II, which is a Godox VL200/300 alternative.

Marticulate Thanks for the feedback. I took a few votes and the vast majority of people asked for music, so I gotta give the people what they ask for 😁 It is a bit quieter in newer videos though, so hopefully it’s less distracting for you 👍

. Fair enough. I'd just recommend even less volume then and non percussive music (no drums or obvious snare sounds) as they cut through and tend to compete for dialogue.

I'll be posting a full comparison of the SL, SL II, FV, VL, and UL series as soon as my UL150 arrives. They actually all have their uses, so it depends on how you plan to use your lights. As far as light quality and brightness goes, ALL of the series of lights are essentially identical, so there's no reason to pick one over the others. Regarding the SL150W II vs the VL150, there's a few notable differences: 1. SL150W II has AC Adapter and Controller built into the head, so you only have the head and 1 cord. VL150 has Head Unit > XLR Cable > Controller > XLR Cable > AC Adapter. 2. Since VL150 has separate controller, it also has built in V-mount battery support, SL150W II has no battery support (although you can use something like a Tacklife P50 to power lights like this: amzn.to/2BsqG8Q) 3. SL150W II has a quieter fan, and allows you to turn the fan completely off 4. SL150W II has built in effects 5. VL150 has mobile app control 6. VL150 comes with a case Hope that helps for now!

Thank you so much for the comment! It’s so hard to choose between the SL II and the VL now. Battery support is amazing. But on the other hand effects are amazing too. The ability to turn off the fan on the other is cool too. But a carrying case is also essential for me. I still carry the SL 60 on its original cardboard package 😂 anyway I am looking forward to your video. Leaning towards the VL. Fingers crossed. Subscribed!

Same here! Using the cardboard/styrofoam sucks, LOL. I'm researching aftermarket cases for the SL150W II now. If I find something worthwhile, I'll definitely make a video :)

I have pretty heavy duty boom arms like this geni.us/impactboomarm which have worked for that setup just fine. The thin, lightweight boom arms may not be as sturdy, but would still work if balanced properly.

@@NewLayer thanks 🙏

Thanks for the support! I'm glad my videos helped so much. The SL150W II is still a great light, especially when you find it for a good price :)

I would still recommend the Mark II strongly over the first one because of the fan noise, silent mode, build quality, and special effects. I understand if it's not in the budget, in which case, you CAN make the original SL150W work, but trying to hide fan noise becomes a priority with that one. I have a big comparison of all 5 Godox lights coming out in 30 minutes or less, so watch out for that, it may help!

@@NewLayer Thanks for the input! Will have a look at the video, good timing then :D. I am on a "budget" have a very small channel and have to much gear already haha

Mazman What is this “too much gear” you speak of? Lol

@@NewLayer lol I know its a very relative term. But I'm with you, one can never have to much stuff haha

Thanks! They seem to be able to design and produce products very quickly, which is fantastic for users. Right now I think I have 7-8, and will surely collect more, haha.

I think I’ll get 1-2 in about a month or so. They are ~$250, so I have high expectations for them at such a high price!

Nice! That's a steal on this light. I'm not sure how much inventory of the Mark I they have, but I'd be happy to live in a world with only Mark II lights :)

Check out my full comparison video of the SL, SL II, FV, VL, and UL series here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2DEuihHpJ00.html Let me know if you have any specific questions afterwards, but that should cover everything :)

Thanks, glad you liked it! I have a light comparison tool here that allows you to see how the CCT and tint from different lights compare, which will help you figure out what lights might pair well together: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare Honestly, all the Godox lights are good matches for each other, except the original SL series, which isn't as accurate. I hope that helps :)

It depends on the size/type of modifier you're using and how close it is to your subject. With the stock reflector, definitely. With a 48" softbox, maybe. Keep in mind the VL300 is only 1 stop brighter than the SL150W II and other 150 watt Godox lights, so although it seems way more powerful, in practical terms, it's not THAT big of a difference. I hope that helps :)

@@NewLayer it helped a lot, thank you very much 🙏

I honestly don't hear good things about the SLB60W, but I haven't ever used one in person. As of today, this is my favorite battery powered option: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3pRWDAF9IGE.html The FV150 is the same exact brightness and color accuracy as the SL150W II, just with some flash functionality. The SL150W II on the other hand has the fan off/silent mode at limited brightness. So whichever feature is more important to you is the one you should get. I just posted a full Godox comparison covering all of the 150 watt lights that might help you as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2DEuihHpJ00.html The SL200W II is 1/2 stop brighter than the 150 watt lights, so you'd just have to decide if the price difference was worth it. I hope that helps :)

I did a video that shows what that little tripod setup is ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TV0dyXLLgRw.html

Good choice! I'm posting my video on the UL150 next week, and will do the VL150 after that. All the new Godox lights are really great for the price.

Totally agree on the FV series. I think if they had an FV300, it would be much more useful than the 150 and 200. They just aren't quite bright enough to eliminate the need for studio flashes. And as you mentioned, some continuous lights setting of 50% doesn't actually mean 1 stop darker than 100% like halving a shutter speed would, which is another reason strobes are still far superior for still photos.

What made you return the fv200 an what did you get instead?

@@baconlung4062 I didn't return it, I collect lights so I have them on hand for comparisons with others :) If I had to choose between the SL Mark II lights and the FV lights, I would 100% get the SL Mark II series. The flash functionality on the FV is not very useful, at least compared to the bigger benefit of a quieter/silent fan.

New Layer my bad, that was directed at Neil.

@@baconlung4062 Nothing yet, I sold the SL150W as it wasn't much more powerful than the SL60W and a lot of fan noise ( the person bought it to replace the fan and it was good afterwards). The FV200W is really nice, quiet, and polyvalent. It is just in mixed lighting it becomes complicated. The silent Godox 300W or Nanolite 500w are good options, or Aputure of course.

There are very few lights that are weather resistant, so typically you'd just plan to cover them with an umbrella or tarp. I've never shot in the rain with lights, so maybe someone else can chime in with a more streamlined solution.

One on hand, this is a great suggestion for future reviews, but is also not as useful as it seems for a few reasons: 1. The tint changes depending on a light's power. For example, at 100% power this light has a CC# of 1.1G, at 35% power, it's 0.6G. Even lower it's at 0.4G. In the first scenario, a 1/4 power green gel would be about right, in the second, a 1/8 green gel would. So if you're that worried about color accuracy, you need to set up your scene and then do a custom white balance, or measure the light at its given brightness. 2. LED lights turn more green over time, some faster, some slower. So if it's 1G now and you use it daily, in a month it might be 0.5G at 100% power. 3. Modifiers change the CCT and tint significantly, and every modifier and every brand will do so differently. You would have to measure the CCT and tint AFTER adding your modifier to gain any useful knowledge for your shoots. Between the SL, SL II, FV, UL, and VL series lights (at 100% power), the tint on my units ranges from 0.4G - 1.1G. So they are all pretty close to each other. I suspect Godox uses the same chips in all their newer 150 watt models, so any difference is just manufacturing tolerance. Looking at a few of my past videos (filmed on SL60W, SL150W, FV200, etc), I've never had to move the Tint slider in Lumetri past +10, and that's using the default daylight white balance. If you shoot a white card and do a custom white balance, it'd be near 0 obviously. There's SO much that goes into the color of a light, which you may already know, but hopefully I've given you a better understanding of how "tinted" this light is. All that said, the more important thing is buying lights that are close to each other, because then you can adjust your camera white balance and the difference between them will be negligible. I hope that helps, but let me know if you have a reason that I'm missing and I'll consider it for future reviews!

If you compare the SL150W II, FV150, VL150, and UL150 to their 200 counterparts, the 200s are all about 1/2 stop brighter. The only light that's slightly different is the original SL150W and SL200W, which are about 1/3 stop dimmer than the SL150W II and SL200W II. Hope that helps :)

@@NewLayer Hi to conclude I have come down to SL150 II and fv 150 as thats my budget, the only question remains is that i occasionally do product photography, so is choosing the fv 150 over the sl 150 II would be a good choice, as my major work is 80% video and 20% photograhy so due to the budget constraints what should I go with as one is excellent for video i.e SL 150 II but I am not sure what to choose

@@ShahbazAhmed The only real thing the SL150W II has over the FV150 is the fan off mode, but, both lights are very quiet and will be fine in the vast majority of situations. I used an SL150W for a long time and even that was quiet enough for me, and the FV150 is much quieter. You'll need a way to trigger the FV150 in flash mode, but you'll get 1.5-2 stops of extra brightness out of it, so it is helpful for photography. So unless you need absolute silence, I think the FV150 would be the better choice for you :)

@@NewLayer indeed I dont need that fan off mode and only thing that was confusing me was the light output of both and considering if thats not the case so surely once a flash is added my still product photography can be benifited from the flash mode for sure

@@ShahbazAhmed The SL150W II, FV150, VL150, and UL150 are all the same brightness in continuous mode, and same thing with the 200 watt variants. So the FV series just has the 1.5-2 extra stops when in flash mode. So if you don't need the fan off mode, the FV150 or FV200 is the best choice in my opinion :)

Thanks for the comment. I typically use matching lights and adjust my white balance to adjust for tint, but that would be a good video! It's a bit different with LEDs and digital sensors, because Green/Magenta tint numbers don't correspond directly to specific gels like they used to, so it's more of a "try one of these 2-3 and re-measure".

Good question! I don't have the LED200D MKIII, but I just got the bi-color version, which I'll be reviewing ASAP. I can tell you the Pixapro lights are very bulky and heavy with a great overall build quality, but the back panel isn't as solid feeling as the Godox lights.

The answer is it depends. Even if both lights are target 5600K, they also allow for a +- 100-200K variance. So if one light happens to be 5400K, and the other closer to 5800K, it becomes more noticeable. The other main thing to consider is the Green/Magenta tint, which is separate from the CCT (measurement in Kelvin). So one may have a strong green tint, and one may have a strong Magenta tint. This can be corrected with gels, but adds another element to set up obviously. Lights from the same brand have variation too, but typically match better than multiple brand setups. The only way to accurately compare lights against each other is with a Spectrometer like the Sekonic C-800: amzn.to/2UJ4qhN All that said, unless you're doing mid to high end productions, you could most likely safely combine the two without much issue, but it depends on what you find acceptable. I'm actually launching a tool that helps compare lights across all brands, and teaches how to read and understand all the color accuracy measurements and indices. Hopefully I can launch that in the next few weeks.

@@NewLayer Thank you

Thanks for the sub! It'll be a few weeks, but should cover everything :)

That video is in the works (I have some more to test arriving today), so stay subscribed! DM me on Instagram if you need a recommendation sooner, and I'll let you know as soon as I test things @newlayercom

I ended up buying this case. Fits everything except the reflector (which I don't use anyway) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003G2YZLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The links are in the description (you may need to expand the description to see them). Or you can use these: SL150W II - geni.us/1CAgtr SL200W II - geni.us/4XxLHGH Thanks for your support :)

Yeah I can see how that would be a big expense for a small difference.

Thanks! I’ve got the production version of the UL150 on the way, so hopefully 2-3 weeks before I can get that video done :)

The SL150W II and original SL150W are essentially identical when it comes to color quality. The Mark II is a little less than 1/3 stop brighter than the original, and same thing with the SL200W II vs the SL200W, so brightness is not much different either. The beam angle is also functionally the same. Umbrellas don't do that great diffusing light compared to other modifiers, and also bounce a lot of light around the room. I would try one of two things. 1. Set up two giant 4' x 4' fast frames with diffusion in them, and shoot the light through those using the reflectors on the SL150W. To do this, you'll likely have to back the lights up quite a bit. 2. Use 48", or even larger, softboxes with an internal diffusion and external diffusion, to give you more even lighting. If you can't go that big, I would try at least a 36" or 42". You can also go with a collapsible beauty dish, which isn't as deep as a parabolic softbox. 42" collapsible beauty dish - amzn.to/2BmOYkK 48" collapsible beauty dish (I have this one) - bhpho.to/2BhWk9b 56" collapsible beauty dish - bhpho.to/30XK7Bl I hope that helps :)

@@NewLayer Thank you very much for the useful informations

I’ve used almost all the Godox lights up to 240fps with no flicker. I think that was really only an issue with early versions of the original SL series lights 👍

@@NewLayer thank you. appreciate it!

Haha, it can be, but once you know the differences, they actually make some sense. I wish they had a table of what's similar and what's different but... I'm posting my UL150 review early next week, then I'll be doing a video covering the similarities and differences between the SL150W, SL150W II, FV150, UL150, and VL150! I'll put together an easy reference table like I mentioned above so you can quickly compare them all. I hope that have that done by mid-July. FV for flash for sure, otherwise go with the SL150W II. VL if you need v-mount. and UL if you need totally silent at full 150 watt power (since the SL150W II can run at 36% power with the fan off). I hope that helps for now, haha.

@@NewLayer Awesome! I'll subscribe.

As far as brightness goes, this light is just as bright, or at least within 1/3 stop or so. The Aputure light is much more like the VL150 though in that it comes with a case and supports V-mount batteries natively The SL150W II is a better light if you don't need v-mount support in my opinion because it is more simple (just the head unit and power cord), has a silent mode (limited to ~36% brightness), and also has built in effects. So if you're shooting mostly at home or in the same studio space, the SL150W II is just easier to work with. If you need portability and battery support, go for the VL150. Hope that helps :)

You could run 2 of these for close to 1.5 hours actually at 100%. One issue might be the maximum continuous wattage though. It can handle 300 continuous watts, but the lights are 150 watt COB, and then maybe a little extra wattage for the electronics. It should still work, but you may have to run them at 90% or something when using both instead of 100%, which is negligible.

@@NewLayer That’s great to know - thank you for the response.

Thanks, glad you liked it! I'm finishing up my VL150/VL200 review this week, then will have all the footage I need for the final big comparison video. Also, as far as harsh light quality goes, nearly every COB LED will be identical since the differences in the size of the chips in them is miniscule. You can definitely get sharp shadows bare bulb or with the included reflector. The farther you put it from your subject, the sharper the shadows will be. Hope that helps! :)

@@NewLayer I agree, it has to do with handling the light itself, thanks for taking time and bring advice.

If Nanlite sends me a Forza 300 I'll tell you 😆 The Forza 300 is more than 2x the price. Granted, it has V-mount battery support, but even the VL300 from Godox (which has v-mount support) is $250 cheaper than the Nanlite, and is the brightest 300 watt light available that I know of. I would love to test the Forza 60b, 200, 300, and 500 if I get the chance.

The ML60 and most other 60 watt lights will be 1 1/3 stop dimmer than most 150 watt lights, so typically I recommend buying 150 watts when you can afford it. Definitely check my video out on the Nanlite FS series, the FS-150 is amazing and costs less than some of the 60 watt options. Maybe my favorite "basic" light for 2021: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NRn84iErwQA.html If you want native v-mount battery support and a carrying case, then the VL150 is a great light too, and probably the least expensive option. Hope that helps :)

@@NewLayer Thanks so much for your helpful reply. Can I ask what it means to have native v-mount (= battery)? The Nanlite series isn't around where I live so I think I will be going with one of the Godox solutions ;-)

@@SusanneGeert Gotcha! The VL150 has native v-mount support, meaning that it comes with the light and a separate control box with a slot built-in for v-mount batteries. It's really the only reason to by the VL150 over the SL150W II, so it sounds like you don't really need it. So the VL150 has the light head unit, a cable, the control box, another cable, the AC adapter, and another cable. The SL150W II has the light head unit and just 1 cable into the wall, so it's way more simple. If you don't need v-mount support, the only other upside of the VL150 is that it also comes with a carrying case.

Here's the link to the page on their website: www.godox.com/EN/Products_Continuous_SL150II_SL200II.html For some reason you can't click "LED Lights" to find it, you have to go to the Products page and find them under Continuous Lighting :)

@@NewLayer Ah, yep, its hided :) Thanks!

Thanks! You and me both 😆

Thanks for watching! Hope it helped.

The good news is that there IS an SL200W II. I just got it today funny enough. As for an SL60W II... we can only wait and hope. I think it’d be a huge seller.

@@NewLayer Can't wait to watch it! Subbed.

Functionally pretty much identical. I will post my big comparison video in maybe a month, but here are the measurements I got. SL150W II Lux: 6780 CRI/TLCI: 96.9/97 R9/R13/R15: 93.9/97.9/95 TM-30 Rf/Rg: 92/101 SSI: 72 VL150 Lux: 6580 CRI/TLCI: 97/97 R9/R13/R15: 98.4/99/97.3 TM-30 Rf/Rg: 92/101 SSI: 73 The specific R values of the VL150 are slightly better, but the SL150W II are still really great, and it's not something that would make a visible difference. I would not base my choice for one over the other on brightness or color accuracy. The fan on the SL150W II is the quietest out of ALL my Godox lights (SL60W, SL150W, SL150W II, FV200, VL150, VL200), and it can be turned off, which the VL can't. The only thing quieter would be the upcoming UL150, which is also ~$100 more expensive. The only reason I'd get the VL150 over this is if you want the v-mount support, or like having the controller and AC adapter separate from the head unit for some reason. When I'm sitting in front of the light, I usually can't tell whether the fan is on or off, which is saying a lot!

@@NewLayer Thank you very much. I appreciate it.

@@NewLayer , based on what I've seen so far, the fans will be replaced in all models coming out even if the names of the models do not change. Also all the new or "refreshed" models have the new dimpled reflector without a hole for an umbrella shaft.

I don’t use reflectors much so that doesn’t bother me. The fans between the VL, FV, and SL II lights look the same but are not the same volume in my testing. If they get all their lights down to the noise level of my SL150W II then that would be amazing!

Awesome! I'm excited for you. Assuming the 200 is the exact same but 1/2 stop brighter, I'm sure you'll love it. I have the 200 on the way also just so I can have all the test data :)

Hey JT. I’m curious if the fan noise is the same on the sl200 II as well. I got the version I and if the version II has the 74k lux as they claim with a silent fan then it would be amazing.

I don't have the SL200W II yet, so I can only speculate, but I would assume it's on par with the SL150W II. I should be picking one up in mid-July if you can wait that long for an answer. All the lights from Godox that are the same wattage are essentially identical in brightness, so the SL200W II should put out ~8,600 Lux with the bare bulb just like the VL200 and FV200. The 200 watt lights are about 1/2 brighter than the 150 watt lights, so not a huge difference. The listed 74K Lux would be only with the stock reflector, and is really just a vanity spec so... I would focus much more on the bare bulb measurements, unless you solely use stock reflectors.

You can see all the measurements I got for both lights (and much more) here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Godox+SL60W&light2=Godox+SL150W+II Both actually had a slightly Magenta shift (which is good, since LED lights turn more green over time). Apart from that, the biggest difference will be the CCT. The SL60W isn't as stringent on quality control, so may be 200-300K off from 5600K while the new SL II series is closer. My SL60W is 5316K and my SL150W II is 5759K. Honestly, the older SL60W is hard to color match because there is simply more variation between individual units. With that said, any Godox light will likely be the best match you can find.

@@NewLayer thank you this helps me more than i can say.

Faisal Yaqub Sure thing! Any time. I’m always in my Discord server giving lighting advice: discord.gg/PBD97R

I think I mentioned the SL150W vs SL150W II brightness difference in the video, but here's the info: SL150W - 5260 Lux @ 1m (f/6.3, ISO 100, 1/50 sec) SL150W II -6780 Lux (f/7.1, ISO 100, 1/50 sec) So the SL150W II is 1/3 stop brighter than the original. As far as the FV goes, I only have the FV200, not the FV150, but the FV200 is the same brightness as the SL200W II and the VL200, so the FV150 should be exactly the same as the SL150W II in brightness. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions :)

@@NewLayer Is that measurement at 1 meter? I'm hoping to find an LED that can be used for outdoor fill on a normal sunny day.

@@laneeric Yes, all the measurements are at 1 meter. You can compare these lights and more using my tool here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare The SL150W II could potentially work as a fill light dependong on what modifier(s) you're using. Definitely with the standard reflector. Hope that helps :)

Thanks, I'm glad you like them! The SL60W is a fantastic light, just not quite bright enough when you get into bigger projects. I have been excited for every new light series Godox has released, but this one lived up to all my hopes, so I have no doubt if you get one you'll love it too 👍

@@NewLayer Totally agree JT! The SL60 is nice for the $ but just not enough punch. Have a good one and I look forward to learning more and frequently tuning in to your ultra informative channel.

Thanks again for your support! :)

Good choice! And thanks for your support. Any time people use my links it really helps a ton to make more videos :)

I hear you! Some people love the V-mount support of the VL/UL series for that reason, but I have been using this and LOVE it: amzn.to/30UhXan I prefer it to V-mount batteries for a few reasons: 1. It can be used with ANYTHING with a regular power cord 2. It is useful for non-photo/video stuff (camping, house backup power, etc) 3. It's the price of a couple equivalent watt-hour V-mount batteries 4. You can use lights with just a head unit and 1 cord, instead of having to lug around multiple AC adapters and controllers and cords 5. Has built in USB, USB-C, and Qi wireless charging I use it with two 150W Godox lights all the time. They also have smaller versions that are legit cheaper than equivalent V-mounts, and have more juice, if you want to pair 1 power station with each light: P16 - amzn.to/30RaSrb P30 - amzn.to/2YToi3o Obviously v-mounts have other benefits, but I am in love with these things (if you can't tell), LOL.

I'm also reviewing a new battery (dual NP-F) powered 60W video light soon, just waiting for it to arrive. Should be comparable to the SLB60W at about half the price, but whether it's worth it depends on the brightness, color quality, and most importantly, the fan noise.

@@NewLayer thank you very much. Now I just need to find out how to ship those to my country. That should work a bit better. Than 50m extension cords😅 How long do they last you usually?

@@NewLayer as for the other light: I am looking forward to it. Notifications turned on!

Somewhere around 1 hr. If you’re using NP-F batteries you could go forever with enough of them 😀

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks :)

I assume you mean $100 less, not $100 total? $100 would be a steal, haha. I would still recommend the SL150W, but only if you are 100% sure that you don't need a quiet light, otherwise, the upgrades in the Mark II are well worth the slightly higher price.

@@NewLayer I actually really need a quiet light. I double checked and I paid $245 for the light. Lol. I think I remembered the lower priced light. The biggest issue I have with version 1 is the fan.

Yep, that's the #1 complaint with all the original SL series lights. This one is amazing! If you want to splurge and have full 150 watt power with no fan, check out my UL150 review :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UauO0sg-Tpg.html

@@NewLayer is it better than the Aputure?

In many ways, definitely. I think you get way more bang for your buck. The Aputure has other features that you may like, like v-mount support. If that’s the case, watch my recent review on the Godox VL series lights. They are the “pro” budget lights and are also fantastic. I would only get the Aputure lights if you had a specific reason to choose them over anything else.

I had the C220 and you can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Godox+VL150&light2=Pixel+C220 I also did a review on the C220 a while back: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FEHXjgY_I7I.html I prefer the Godox light because the build is way better and I like the AC adapter being integrated into the head unit so you just need a single cord. The Pixel lights do include carrying cases though.

@@NewLayer thank you for the response! I mainly do photography but would possibly like to dive into videography a bit. From what I’ve seen the Godox does seem like the better option, although being bigger (but coming with the pros of the single cord) it has the better build quality like you mention. I’m not sure if I’m bothered by not having a case if I purchased the Godox sl150w II because I’d probably go the route of getting a hard case for my flashpoint 600pro and the Godox to be able to store them together. The c150 and the c220 look like nice options it’s just hard to compare to the Godox sl150w II right now seeing this second model is still so new! But I appreciate your response and your thoughts, I’ll probably grab the Godox for those occasional videos and to have a constant light source to play with in my photos!

@@currentlylive_ec5768 You might also look into the FV series of Godox lights. Same body as the SL II, but has flash capabilities and can be triggered with Godox triggers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XbzPndcSKbI.html It's 2 full stops brighter in flash mode than video mode, so not nearly as bright as strobes, but still something :)

@@NewLayer okay okay, last question. I’m a man whom would rather buy once then buy twice as the saying goes. So if you had the choice would you pick the Godox sl series over the aputure lights?

@@currentlylive_ec5768 The SL II and VL series of Godox lights are exceptional for the money. They are more of a midrange light at a mid-budget price, but they should last a very long time. Personally, I would rather have 2 Godox SL II or VL lights than 1 Aputure light, but if the Aputure lights have features you want that Godox doesn't have, then obviously they aren't a bad choice.

A good amount. I'll be releasing my UL150 video next week. Off the top of my head: 1. UL has no effects 2. UL has separate controller + AC adapter from head 3. UL has v-mount support 4. UL uses same remote as VL series, but doesn't come with a remote 5. UL costs $100 more than SL150W II 6. UL runs full 150 watt power with no fan, SL150W II only gives you ~36% of full power with the fan off, or the equivalent to SL60W The UL150 is more like the VL150, with the exception of no case, no included remote, and it's 1" bigger in all dimensions + the head is 2 lbs heavier. Hope that helps :)

New Layer hmmm according to BH it does include a wireless remote... but no case which is a bummer... I have to order these by today so Im torn... its to set up a livestream studio... What worries me is if this new system will in fact work and not over heat and pay the price for being an early adopter... The battery options is a huge plus too... gives more flexibility for other use cases

Godox told me beforehand that the UL150 would not include a remote, and the pre-production version as well as the one I purchased did NOT include one, so B&H is wrong I'm afraid. Their info is preliminary because they don't even have it in stock yet, so I assume they'll update that when they get them on hand. If you bought the UL150, you would probably not receive it for 2-3 weeks, so if you need it soon, sounds like you will need the SL150W II, or the VL150 if you really want v-mount functionality + case.

There are still some significant differences between this and the VL150. I'll be doing a comparison of all the series of lights soon, but in the meantime... - SL150W II fan is quieter than any other lights, even the VL series, and additionally is the only one that can be turned off completely manually - VL150 has Head Unit > Cord > Controller > Cord > AC Adapter w/Cord while the SL150W II only has Head Unit > Cord - VL150 has integrated V-mount battery support - VL150 surprisingly does NOT have any built-in effects - VL150 comes with a case - VL150 is $60 more I think that's most/all of the differences. Hope that helps :)

I don't know anything about an SL60W upgrade. If one does come, you'll see me review it ASAP! I have a feeling they're trying to steer people to this light. And the upgrade from the SL60W to SL150W II is very significant in every way. Heck, it's a significant upgrade from the original SL150W in every way.

New Layer yeah, I have the same feeling.. but for a really low budget the SL-60 is still a decent option, right? I mean it’s like a half the price.. (When you e.g. swap the fan yourself) otherwise I’d look at the SL-/VL-150.. But thanks for the advice and the really good reviews! Keep up this great work (I subscribed for sure!)

New Layer I thought about it over night and finally decided on the SL-150WII even though it has no V-mount, which might become useful in the future but for now I’m mostly shooting indoors, and the “fan-off” mode is really interesting.. so again thank you really much for your great advise and the testing.. looking forward to the smack down of the the entire lineup💪🏼 Keep up the great work! I wish you all the best✌🏼

@@NewLayer So, the difference is pretty much that SL has the ballast built-in. What about light quality? A video comparison among all the Godox series (advantages/disadvantages) and their applications would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'm wondering how much output I need from a light to light normal indoor scenes bearing in mind that I would need to use gels to match other light sources. Thanks! 👍

Thanks! That’s means a lot. Hopefully you’ll like my future content :)

@@NewLayer let me ask you an interesting question. When you get one of those large octagonal softboxes for these lights is there a difference between the photography vs constant light softbox? in other words why don't the amazon softboxes say for constant light also. Most of them simply say for strobes im wondering because i dont want something to melt lol

Strobes can actually get just as hot, or hotter, so you should be fine with either regardless of the description. The vast majority of continuous lights use a Bowens style mount, but there is a wider range of mounts for strobes, so that may be why they don’t specifically list it. These are my favorite soft boxes. If you’re using the diffusion, you get the same light quality as a parabolic but they are half as deep, so light and easier to handle. geni.us/glowbeautydish42silver geni.us/glowbeautydish34silver geni.us/glowbeautydish25white Hope that helps :)

@@NewLayer that sure did help! last question I'm using the lights for a documentary and I'm used to cheap amazon softbox kits with 3 lights for 100$ lol. What are the major pros and cons of deeper softboxes vs shallower I really want the BEST video quality and control over light and color I can get? I guess I'm giving you another idea for an upcoming video.

and size of the softbox.. pros and cons of 35inch vs the bigger 47inches

💯 Samesies. Although, I was really surprised at how quiet the fan was. The sound recordings were done just 4" from the lights, and boosted a lot. I legitimately can't tell if it's on or off if I'm sitting in front of the light.

I wish I had the perfect solution, but the best I've found is this: amzn.to/2Yizuar You can easily fit the light and cord inside, and then there's some room for accessories. Unfortunately, the reflector does not fit, so you would need something bigger, or if you're like me, you just don't really use the reflector. There may be other options too, but this is really cheap, and I haven't found anything else. It would be nice if Godox had optional cases for their continuous lights, but they don't yet :-/

Awesome! Happy to help, and thanks for the support. Let me know how you like them 👍👍

HAHA! Damn, you watching in 4K bro? If I get flicker in my RGB light bulbs I have to do that. I REALLY need Aputure to release their RGB bulbs so I can upgrade and never worry about it again.

New Layer haha no man, guess I just have a sharp monitor. Found it to be a hilarious though well thought solution :D Loved the video btw!

Haha, that's funny either way. Glad you liked the video :)