Golden Dorsett Apple Tree 

Woohoo! So glad to hear this!

@EdgeofNowhereFarm yeah, I learnt pruning too from you. I have a question one of the seedlings failed to sprout. Its only root stock that keeps growing, and I remove them from it. What can I use to make it grow because it's still fresh when you cut on it. Thanks

@@kariiremiriam2266 the only thing we have had some success with is making a small cut/notch just above one of the bud locations to try and induce branching. Otherwise you may have to replace that tree.

@EdgeofNowhereFarm thanks dear for the quick response

Perfect timing! Glad you enjoyed this one.

Those are great choices. They're strong producers and work well cross pollinating each other. Congrats on your new babies!!

How are they doing and do you also live in the desert? I just got those trees and I'm Inlas vegas

Thanks J C, glad you're enjoying the content and keep sending the questions!

Can't go wrong with a Golden Dorsett!

Yeah, the key there is thinning them out so you can get a better size fruit. Glad we could help answer the question!

Hey Evalynn, thanks. It definitely has done really well for us.

Thank you! 😊

Not only that, but your namesake apple tree holds up great to our blistering heat in AZ!

Hey Royal Bro. Thanks, we enjoy putting them out there!

Hey CP. This really is a great variety for us here in AZ!

Hey there! I haven't heard of Molly Delicious (need to research that one!!), but the Anna and Dorsette are low chill varieties that should do well for you. Not sure on your climate zone, but generally speaking those are "Southern" varieties. As for the soil, that's where you need to be selective on root stock. We purchase our trees from a local producer that chooses root stocks specifically for our hard, dry, alkaline soils. This is the key to a tree doing well (or even surviving) your soil. As for spacing, you can keep apple trees very close together as long as you prune them. On our current farm (6 acres) we're keeping the trees 16' apart and that's plenty of space to keep them pruned to for production. The tree you see here is about 12' from an Anna and they're pretty close. I would probably keep at least 10' if possible, unless you're wanting to prune heavy each year to keep them from growing into one another. As for humidity, that's a good thing. Our trees really struggle because of the dry heat. They love hot weather as long as they have consistent soil moisture. I hope this helps and good luck with your orchard!!

Hey Ovette. We don't have any plans to sell apple trees. We purchase our trees from RSI Growers in Glendale, AZ. That is our go-to and where we send folks looking for stone and pome fruit.

Hey David. We have very few disease and insect issues with most of our trees, Dorsette apple trees included, so I'm not a good resource for dealing with those issues. As for fertilizer, we have done a few episodes on fertilizing fruit trees (they are on the same schedule and regimen as the rest of our fruit trees), so I'll link one for you here; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vt5yBtpgXiE.html Hopefully we can at least help out on that front.

Those are some great questions and it sounds like you're basically looking at doing the same thing we are in regards to apple trees right about now. So you'll want to get an Anna and Golden Dorsette. They will cross pollinate for heavier fruit set. We are hoping to get ours in the ground next month, so October is a FANTASTIC month to plant these trees, but you can also wait until early spring (late Feb/early March) As for distance, that's a matter of how much space you have and how much you're wanting to control growth through pruning. His trees will be grow to a full size apple tree (15 - 20 feet tall and about as wide), so pruning is the key if you're going to plant them closer together. We really like to give at least 12' between trees whenever we can. Hope this helps!

Hey Ball For Life. So we give our trees about 10-12' between trees, but with apple trees you could probably get away with a little less. They're not real aggressive growers and easy to keep pruned back. I probably wouldn't give less than about 8 feet assuming you have the space to do so. Thanks for the comment!

Edge of Nowhere Farm Thank you perfect

Hey Happybaby2008! Hoping this link works... rsigrowers.com/index.html

Robert, that's a great question and it depends. We have a few double planted trees where the trunks are about 24 inches apart and they do ok. As long as you're willing to prune heavily and fertilize a little more aggressively you can nearly put them in the same hole. Realistically you would need at least 8' between trunks to really expect solid production though. Double planted trees lose production on the sides that are adjacent to each other. The other issue is solar exposure. Depending how they're planted you may have one tree getting more exposure than the other and the one with less may suffer. One last issue would be the issue of dominance. One tree usually becomes dominant and again the other tree will suffer. All this in mind, two double planted trees is better than none at all, but you may find the production from 4 double planted trees may not be much more than 2 trees with solid spacing.

Thanks for the quick response! Everywhere I read 20-30 foot spacing for these trees. It seems overkill. I plan on pruning them hard. I don’t want them really tall. I’ve got the space but I would like them as close as I can with the best production I can get. That tree you picked in the video, how tall and wide was it? Thx again.

@@roberthogge2797 ok gotcha. The trees on this property are about 12-13' apart and this tree was pushing about 10' across. On our new property we're keeping most of our trees spaced at 16' with the exception of some larger trees that we're pushing out to 30'. If you can get somewhere in the 10-15' range you'll be in good shape.

Hey Art, that's a great question and we can say without any doubt that they are self fruitful. The only apple tree within a couple miles of where we live now is the one we have in a pot and it gave us several pieces of fruit this year. If you want to have more production it supposedly does better with Anna as a pollinator, but your Grannysmith and Honeycrisp won't fit the bill. They are fall apples and they set flower much later than your spring apples will. We noticed that vividly on the old property with the fall varieties we were growing there.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm awesome! Thank you so much for the quick reply and info! I'll have to get another early season apple to help increase yeild since my grannysmith and honey crisp are late season. 😀

Great question and I can't say we use a specific ratio. We usually fill a large stock pot with 4-5 quarts of water and splash some white vinegar into it. I'm guessing it's probably around 1/4 cup or so.

Hey Alyssa. Hard to say from the description, but a pic is worth a thousand words. Send us a pic of the tree and surrounding area to our email (address on the About tab here on YT) FB or Insta. Hopefully we can help you figure out what's going on!

Hey Tammy. It sounds like you need to thin you apples out a bit, so they can grow larger. We did a video on thinning apple trees that may help. I'll link it for you here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KE5GSnBmcoU.html

Hey guys! You can get some red on newly developing fruit. We see that as well and eventually it goes away as the fruit gets larger. Have you had this happen before?

That tree was about 3 years old when we filmed this.

Hello Singh, great question here. The Dorsette is self fruitful and all of the flowers can produce fruit, so you can definitely hand pollinate them to ensure you have adequate pollination. As a side note, nectarine trees are notorious for being hard to pollinate and set fruit. From what I understand it's because of the lack of fuzz that peaches typically have (nectarines are fuzzless peaches) in the flower. That fuzz actually helps keep certain insects out that can harm the flower during pollination.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm i am always learning new things. Thanks for that information. Is there any indication when a flower gets pollinated and is ready to bear the fruit ?

@@singhp9348 you won't know for sure until the flower wilts and there is small bulb forming. If they don't pollinate the flower stems will just fall from the tree.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thanks for sharing your candid knowledge.

Hey Terry, that's a great question and it could be a few things. It's common for us to see a secondary flowering in the fall, but the fruit never really sets and then we hit our cold season. In San Diego you may have had less cold on the tree which would allow it to actually set fruit completely. Lori and I actually met while I (Duane) was living in San Diego, so I'm familiar with the area. What part of San Diego are you in? If you're inland and up towards the hills (La Mesa, Escondido, etc) you'll be a bit cooler in the morning and evenings as compared to closer to the ocean (Carlsbad, MB, PB, etc). Even this small change in weather can make a difference on this one.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I am in San Carlos, close to La Mesa.

@@terryshaw6806 Ok, so you should still get a fair amount of chill hours. The key is temps below 45 degrees, because that is what really puts the tree to sleep. However, we've had some years where the trees never actually shed all of their leaves. If you're getting fruit to ripen that's pretty impressive. You'll have to let us know if they actually ripen up for you.

We did an episode earlier this year with a taste test on these 2 varieties that I'll link for you here; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dfFy0QLPGCU.html

Hey Jose! Sorry we missed your comment when it was first posted. We have not had an issue with fireblight on any of our trees from RSI growers. I don't know if that's because of his root stock or the variety itself.

Hey Arununni. We have used several including chicken and pig manure. We prefer composted pig manure as it tends to really draw lots of worm activity.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Thanks man

We're hoping as the trees get bigger we will be able to offer u-pick on the apple trees!

Ok sir

Hey mcneel. If you're here in PHX Summer Winds carries the fertlizer we've used in the past called BioFlora crumbles. You can also get this from Greg Peterson's Urban Farm Fruit Tree Program in larger bags which would be your best bet. Have you tried Chip Drop for your wood chips? That's who we're using and they've been great!

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm nothing you would recommend from home Depot? Just trying to learn what is acceptable to the golden Dorset

@@mcneel16 Sure, we've used the Arizona's Best fertilizers before and they do really well. Pretty much any fruit tree fertilizer will do the job. We did a video on fertilizing a few months back where we discussed this and I'll link it for you here if you haven't seen it yet; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gfdVROvUWQo.html

How do I start Rockit apple from seeds?

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm so I've had this tree for about a year, do they go dormant? I see no leaves on mine and I do not want to worry if this is normal

Hey Kylan. It may be the root stock. We had the same issues with Dave Wilson trees on the old farm and it's the reason we went with only RSI apple trees here. The went from baby sticks in the Fall to full size trees that needed heavy pruning by the following Winter. If it was me, I would pull those trees and replace them with RSI trees come Spring.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm ok, I will do that! Maybe I'll try to replant these in another area

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I got these from Willis orchards. These are either on nemaguard or m111.

@@hiddenvalleyfarmstead it's probably M111 which is a common apple root stock.

Hey Barrie! I'm not sure what your best option would be. These trees are grafted varieties and won't produce true to type from seeds. In fact, it's not uncommon to find either no seeds or completely immature ones in the ripe fruit. I don't know if there is a nursery that ships overseas, but I've had many of our viewers from around the world tell me they have family in the US that sends them cuttings, trees etc that they can't get out of country. That may be your best option.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Okay, thanks for the prompt reply. I have friends in Australia who come to Thailand . I will ask them to look for the Tropical Anna trees there. They will be able to bring them over once the country opens up to foreign visitors again. Many thanks and stay safe.

@@barriecusens1663 that sounds like a good plan Barrie. Fingers crossed you can get your hands on one soon!

I've seen it spelled a few different ways, but they are all the same. The Anna and Dorsette are very similar in flavor and texture. We did a taste test you may want to check out here; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dfFy0QLPGCU.html

Hello Ako. I don't know of anybody who sells seedlings of these trees (we don't sell trees here). The farms that I know of all sell grafted trees that are usually at least a year old. I have been told that some folks have family or friends in the states who will buy small trees for them and send them to other countries.

Hey David. We did our 2nd year pruning last Winter, so I'll link to that video for you here; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6aphVVPyMLY.html

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Wow! That was extremely helpful. I really really appreciate it. My tree is growing solid East because of the sunrise. Not sure how that plays out for balance but I'm not a commercial grower :-) I still have leaves evidently I should wait till they fall off to prune it. Probably another month in North georgia. I'll check out your Amazon store! Don't suppose you sell kiwi male female?

@@davidmahle1221 glad that gave you some ideas. We don't sell any trees or grow any kiwis, but I hope you can find those plants. Love that fruit!

Hey Banna. This variety produces once/year in the Summer months.

They are one and the same. Our go-to nursery lists them as Dorsett Golden on the website, but he refers to them both ways as well.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm 10-4 thank you.

got it rsigrowers.com/store/apples/

@@dollartreegrower3969 Looks you found the guy. Reid is the best there is with Pome and Stone fruit here in the desert. His trees outperform every other and he only sells varieties that do well for us.

He's in Glendale, AZ. I'll link to his website for you here; rsigrowers.com/index.php?

This tree is from RSI Growers here in Phoenix and he uses his own root stocks for pome fruit that thrive in our desert soil. As much as I've tried to get out of him what root stock he uses, he won't give it up. He does specifically say it's not M111 though.

Hey Alex. That's a great question and it's possible. They grow these in Florida where they get very few chill hours, so I think it's worth a try.

Chris, that's a great question and I have no idea! I'm guessing somebody named Dorsett was the first to cultivate the variety??

Hello Celly. That's a great question and I don't know for sure. There have been tests done in California here in the US in areas that have very little or no chill hours and they seem to still set and ripen fruit. So I think it would be worth trying if you have the space and access to one of the trees.

Hey Gretty, wow I have never heard that one before. Gotta give that a try. Thank you for the suggestion!

Hey there Siddu.

sir u no haki

@@sidduvadageri5071 I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what that means.

Hey Chris. Thanks for sharing that video on this technique. If we run into another issue where we need to protect a tree we may use that. For the first year the trees were in the ground we used tree tanglefoot to keep the ants at bay. Now that the trees are larger we can catch the ants before they do too much damage by dousing their holes with boiling water and vinegar and spraying the tree with a diluted peppermint/water spray to cover their tracks so they don't find their way back to the same tree. It's working OK for now, but newly planted trees are still a challenge.

Hey there! Our summer temperatures are higher than that here (up to 50 celsius) and it gets pretty cold (down to - 6 celsius). Your high temperatures will be fine, but they also need cold temperatures to produce fruit well. Usually need some time under 7 celsius.

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Tanks Brother.

@@mdmalekmostak6379 You're welcome and let us know if you have any other questions!

True, we do thin quite a bit, but the set seems to be more consistent on both trees from year to year. When we had only a Dorsette on our old property it was alternate bearing. Some years it was half the production from the prior.