Hey Brian, Thanks for your detailed information on the installation of the 12V reducer. I have been researching the type of toggle kill switch to use. Your video was the only one that I could find with the details I needed. Thanks for the links, that made my research really convenient and with confidence that I am on the right track!
I like the terminal bus bars for connecting multiple lithium batteries (in parallel) to the controller. I'm choosing to use a breaker box to distribute my low voltage equipment. That will add a little overload protection.
Thanks Brian, I'm doing the same thing but wasn't sure about the rating I needed for the toggle switch since you can't find a DC48 volt one. I'm going to use the same switch you used. Also I like the idea of putting in the bus bars.
So I've been confused about the positive and negative terminals that run from the reducer to the batteries. Is there a specific battery terminal you use to connect your power line or can you use any battery in the golf cart?? Also the ground that comes off the reducer, does that get grounded to a battery or does it get grounded to the frame on the golf cart? Thanks
Not sure if this will be answered but my TXT has a pull switch to turn the lights Off and On.... can I simply use that as my toggle for the voltage Reducer? This brings up my original confusion lol, if I'm breaking power to the light circuit using the pull toggle must I still install my 36v to 12v reducer in between the power going to it? Thanks
Hey Brian, I bought a red Hawk light kit. Came with a voltage reducer with five wires. Two go to the neg and pos. And two go to the light kit harness, and one goes to the positive side of the key switch. Problem is I have a ezgo unique four position key switch like yours in this video. What wire is it out of that four wire harness in the back of the key switch do I tap into? Please help!
I have purchased the same Reducer and Switch and once everything is hooked up the switch does not actually control the power to the reducer. regardless of position there is still power. It seems as if the power from the pack is blowing out the switch almost immediately. Any thoughts?
Did you run the positive and negative wires from the first battery in the circuit to the toggle switch? If you did, you only ran 12 volts to the switch and reducer????
The toggle switch is only on the positive, it literally completes the circuit. The reducer is wired from the first battery positive and last battery negative as shown around the 0:40 mark in the video. Again, the switch literally just switches the positive, only one wire in, one wire out.
@@UraniumTwoThirtyFive This is a perfect and easy fix, thank you my reducer always stays on and is warm to touch even after charging overnight even though my accessories will not turn on when the key is off it's still warm so I'm going to use my original 48 volt light switch headlight switch to do the switching on and off only on the positive side and mount it underneath like you did, thank you very much sir
From what i've heard ( I own an RXV as well) the controller is very sensitive to any current draw, eliminating the option of wiring from the key switch etc.....is that why you elected to go straight from the batteries with the kill switch for minimizing a parasitic draw over time?
I installed a kill switch and turned it on and it works but the switch got so hot I couldn’t touch it. It’s a 12v 30a switch. Do I need to find a higher voltage switch? My cart is 36v
I haven't had any issues. The switches I bought are pretty high rated, 125V @ 20A: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KBC5VH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Considering that switch is running 48 volts of current which is four times the amount the switch was designed for, I'm surprised you have not blown any fuses LOL you need at least a 48 volt switch a good example is I have in 2008 precedent in my original headlight switch was a 48 volt switch I'm glad I kept it because I am now using it as my accessory kill switch perfect
Thanks for posting. I just installed a LED Lightbar and I have power going to the switch but nothing to the light. It is a 48V system. I think i need to get a reducer 48v - 12V to fix this issue. Are these reducers really weatherproof? Is there a certain brand you would recommend? any other advice on what might be the issue for my lightbar is appreciated.
I wouldn't say they're completely water proof, but I installed mine under the seat where it's relatively dry. This is the one I got, no complaints: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J274LZD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The reducer has its own inline fuse. I forgot the size, I did replace it once as it popped when I accidentally installed the headlights backwards. The reducer I bought is no longer on Amazon, so can't check the fuse size, but I was able to get a like replacement from my spare fuse box that mostly has car fuses in it.
It scares you even though you know it's going to happen, before I put a kill switch on I was pulling the fuse in and out imagine putting a fuse in and the spark happening right there LOL
