Goodyear Welted vs Blake Stitched Construction Shoes

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In this video I use both diagrams, a cut apart Allen Edmonds, and a de-constructed Florsheim Imperial to show in detail the difference between a Goodyear Welted and Blake Stitched men's dress shoe construction. Goodyear Welting and Blake Stitching are the 2 most common and basic methods of constructing a high quality men's dress shoe. In the past I have done 2 other popular videos on this subject, but in comparison the production quality of them is quite poor. In addition, although before I did a good job of showing how the sole is attached to the Goodyear Welt, I feel that I did a poor job before of showing how the Welt is attached to the shoe upper.
FYI, that cloth strip glued to the insole is called “gemming”.
Here are links to previous videos:
"Shoe Construction: Goodyear Welted Shown"
• Shoe construction: Goo...
"Shoe construction differences - Bonded, Blake Stitched, & Goodyear Welted"
• Shoe construction diff...
Music Credit: RU-vid free Audio - "Hello Mr Princeton" by Otis McDonald

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Опубликовано:

26 янв 2019

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Комментарии : 97

@mikeblast7507 4 года назад

This is by far the clearest explanation I've seen of the differences between the Blake stitch and the Goodyear welt.

@CobblerBob 4 года назад

Mike Blast 👊🏼😊

@giacomo8875 2 года назад

Yes

@winkcrittenden6011 5 месяцев назад

And it's not even close. A+ job

@geyi3916 5 лет назад

This is the first time I really understand how Goodyear welt works. I've read a lot of articles and watched a lot of videos about that before. None of them is as clear as yours.

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

Ge Yi 👊🏼😁👍🏼

@edf2953 5 лет назад

Great job Robert. I was out for dinner with my wife recently and we had considerable snow that evening and it was cold! I wore my Allen Edmonds Higgins Mill boots and my wife had some designer named boot, (more properly should be referred to as a ‘throw away’ boot). Well to make a long story short my feet were dry and warm, while my wife complained of her feet being wet and cold. I think the moral of the story is that one should look for quality in the brand of the shoe and not get caught up in name of the fashion designer shoes. I’m digressing a bit but feel there is a connection to the essence of the message in your video. Keep up the good work and have a good 2019!

@magnushelin007 5 лет назад

For the first time I really understand the difference between Blake and Goodyear. You are an amazing teacher Robert and thank you for sharing your knowledge.

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

Ergon Hardroll 🙏🏼 👊🏼😉

@KennyAIngram 5 лет назад

“I’m not a professional.” Yes you are; and you rock, Robert.

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

Kenny Ingram 🙏🏼 thank you!

@bheinatz1 5 лет назад

Another great video, thank you Robert! You did an excellent job illustrating the differences between GYW and BRS. Please keep up the excellent work!

@carlolaput2597 3 года назад

Watched so many videos on GYW shoes for years, this is the first video where I actually understood whats happening! This channel needs more views!

@CobblerBob 3 года назад

Thank you! I LOVE hearing this!

@TommyShlong 10 месяцев назад

Very much appreciate this video. I did a search for Goodyear welt because I've seen the term for decades but wasn't sure what it meant. Thanks for taking the time to thoughtfully produce this video.

@naranjovet 4 года назад

Thank you very much for using clear and easy to understand words and an amazing methodology to explain. I am impressed by your ease in answering my old and controversial question ... I congratulate you on your extraordinary work ...

@IveJustSeenAFace23 4 года назад

By far the best breakdown I’ve seen on this topic. Really enjoy your channel and passion. Subscribed!

@CobblerBob 4 года назад

John Billings - thank you!! 👊🏼

@bluenlams 5 лет назад

Fantastic video breaking down AE’s construction!

@leon8714 5 лет назад

Thank you so much Robert, your efforts is much appreciated.

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

曾泓銘 👊🏼

@secretagentmandanV2 5 лет назад

Excellent video! Thank you so much Bob

@REM977 4 года назад

Love the vids! I'm learning a lot. And, yes, you ARE a professional!

@CobblerBob 4 года назад

REM977 thank you!

@polina4331 3 года назад

Just recently decided to start buying more consciously higher quality shoes. I just heard in general to look for a sole that is sawn and not glued - had no idea there are different types of stitching. Thank you for your explanation. I already have ordered a blake stitched shoe, now i will know how to recognize both and what to look for😊

@CobblerBob 3 года назад

I have a fairly recent video showing how to spot fake stitching! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--oRWEzvoVe8.html

@alvinprettyman1802 5 лет назад

thanks for posting always like watching your videos

@Jayy_Arra 2 месяца назад

Thank you for the education, sir. Great video and exactly what I was looking for

@Agerskiold 4 года назад

Brilliant explanation, Sir - Thanks 👌🏼

@oganovdavid 3 года назад

Thanks for the good explanation and the visuals

@christiancastillo3043 3 года назад

Same as Ge Yi, very clear and understandable great content.

@MayTheSchwartzBeWithYou 2 года назад

Talk about a high quality video! I love that you supplemented the clear diagram with a real-world example-either in isolation wouldn't be nearly as effective.

@CobblerBob 2 года назад

I’m glad it helped!!

@FuturePerfectContinuous 3 года назад

Thanks Robert 👍

@carlosc3768 4 года назад

Great video Robert, thank you!

@un.garcon 5 лет назад

Great explanation, thanks!

@AtreyuA5 4 года назад

I'm here because i work in a shoe department and i have a lot of clients who ask me if the work boots are stitched. I answer i don't know. Well explained.

@monikafabrika4537 3 года назад

This is so so so helpful! Thank you a million times! Those shoes weren't sacrificed for nothing :D

@javiernight4478 3 года назад

Geez amazing video! You earn a suscriber, and deserve way more

@taylorl991 2 года назад

This is very well explained. Thanks so much!

@CobblerBob 2 года назад

You're very welcome!

@walterthorne4819 2 года назад

Excellent description thank you

@CobblerBob Год назад

Glad it was helpful!

@anasousa441 4 года назад

Now I understand! Very good sir!

@nacimhoc 8 месяцев назад

Great explanations!

@CobblerBob 7 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful!

@philschiavone101 5 лет назад

A very good video. Cutting the shoes apart really shows off the methods well. Robert you can make videos the rest of your life just on construction methods. The waters are very muddy with construction. For instance there are some factories that do Bologna construction. This is where the upper is sewn into a tube. You are actually standing on the upper. At this point the maker can cement a sole on or Blake stitch on a sole or Blake Rapid. Yet the shoe in all these configurations is still referred to as Bologna construction. Just like when a GYW company decides to cement a sole on a welted shoe. Your intent was to show the difference between a GYW and Blake and you have done a good job.

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

Phil Schiavone - 🙏🏼 thank you! And very good points! The question is how do I get samples of those without blowing money?

@walterthorne4819 2 года назад

Many times….In NYC walking home 1.5 miles in a driving rain wearing wool socks & Churches shoes with Goodyear welted construction….never did the interior feel wet, damp or cold.. same walk home wearing many Italian style shoes was a disaster in terms of comfort…the Goodyear difference is amazing.

@CobblerBob Год назад

Interesting testimony!!

@beniamincolta709 5 лет назад

Great video! Thanks for all the good information 👍🏻

@trekvana 5 лет назад

Great video Robert. The gray canvas in your diagram is called the insole rib. It is usually glued to the insole and that is what the welt an upper are stitched to. In bespoke shoes they don't use a rib. They bend the insole into an L shape and Stitch directly to be in insole. I will add a disclaimer that as you say I am not a professional cobbler so the bending of the L shape may not be 100% accurate but it gives you a rough idea of what is going on

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

trekvana thank you... I think it’s also referred to as “gemming”? And yes, I’ve seen bespoke shoe makers do what you’re talking about, but the way I would describe it rather than “bending“ the insole is they actually take a thicker insole leather and carve out the area inside of and outside of the rib, to leave an edge standing up like an “L” to which they stitch.

@jennifermeinhardt2880 5 лет назад

Great video. Excellent explanation. But the gemming issue is eally not a bespoke versus non bespoke distinction. It’s a hand welting versus Goodyear welting distinction. Goodyear welting always uses the gemming method where the insole is glued to the gemming which is then stitched to the welt rather than a hand welt where the insole is stitched directly to the welt. You’d be crazy to get a bespoke shoe that is Goodyear welted and don’t know any that do that. But some non-bespoke shoe makers, e.g. Buday in Budapest use a hand welt. It’s significantly more expensive to create a hand welted shoe because, as the name implies, it most be done by hand.

@jijrod5669 4 года назад

Very informative....

@tgoobz 5 лет назад

The canvas strip is called the gemming.

@brynybach7741 4 года назад

Do you know anything about the Veldshon (I'm not sure if I have spelt the word correctly) sole. The top leather of the shoe is stitched directly to the sole but is stitched on the outside of the sole. This type of sole is said to have come from South Africa and is supposed to be waterproof. I once owned a short brogue style boot with this sole with the top leather being buffalo hide with a sort of pimple finish. They were very sturdy. I no longer see shoes made in this way anymore and wondered why. I really enjoy your videos, very informative.

@kaikaichen 5 лет назад

Hey Bob, there's in fact a _third_ method of construction that's commonly used, known as "Blake/Rapid" or "Blake-Rapid" construction. It's like taking a Blake-stitched shoe and then stitching a second outsole to it (basically, the original Blake outsole becomes a midsole). This process results in an obviously thicker sole that's more durable and resistant to moisture and the elements than a traditional Blake-stitched shoe, and more comparable to Goodyear-welted shoe. However, confusingly, a lot of shoe brands don't make a distinction between Traditional Blake and Blake/Rapid construction; if they offer a Blake/Rapid shoe, they'll often just call it Blake. You kinda just have to use your eyes to figure out which one it is.

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

kaikaichen - I’ve read / seen videos about this method, but I cannot honestly say I’ve actually seen a shoe with it. Are there any popular or common shoe brands that use it that you know of? I’m assuming the way you’d ID it is that outside it would look like a Goodyear Welt, but on the inside of the shoe you would see the Blake stitches coming through the insole?

@kaikaichen 5 лет назад

@@CobblerBob TBH, the only shoes I personally know of that use this method are those from some of the new, popular online direct-to-consumer brands such as Ace Marks, Jack Erwin, Beckett Simonon, and Velasca.

@kennydesai7802 5 лет назад

Hi Bob, Thanks for this . I have a question; is that layer of cork mandatory in a Goodyear welted shoe? Do ALL makers of Goodyear welted shoes put it in?

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

Kenny Desai -no, I’m not sure if you saw the end of the video with the new Allen Edmonds explanation, but I’m pretty certain manufacturers sure can use other materials. I’ve owned Johnston Murphy shoes that feel like they have foam rubber in there.

@kennydesai7802 5 лет назад

@@CobblerBob Thanks so much. Really appreciate the trouble you take.

@th3nobodi3 5 лет назад

That grey piece (canvas) is in fact the ONLY thing keeping the insole attached to the welt and the uppers and the outsole. It is the main failing of goodyear welted shoes compared to handwelted shoes, done to cut costs and reduce the need for skilled shoemakers in the production process.

@th3nobodi3 5 лет назад

Hi Robert, I think it might be super interesting to get a sense of how easy/hard it is to tear apart the plastic/canvas strip from the insole when exposed to moisture vs kept dry.

@Troglor048 5 лет назад

1:02 Shoop Shoop!

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

Shadyhunter04 haha! I had to go to that spot to figure out what you were talking about, LOL.

@Net_Observer 8 месяцев назад

👍

@Agerskiold 4 года назад

Hello again Sir, this might seem a strange question, but why is there something called Norwegian welt / stitch? (My (Norwegian friends don't know) Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰

@owenmaloy4439 4 года назад

Hey, man. As far as I understand it, a Norwegian welt is just another name for a Storm Welt. So it's kind of an L shaped welt and double stitched. He kinda talks about it at the end of the video real quick. Quite possibly I'm wrong, but that's how I understand it. 🤷

@phancius6855 4 года назад

I have a question that I just have bought a regal leather shoe which was described as blake stitch shoe but when actually I did the same way as you did to spot if it was a stitching inside the insole of the shoe, I got nothing. So I just wonder If I was ripped off?

@CobblerBob 4 года назад

Cius P. When you say “described as“ do you mean by a sales person? Or on literature on the website? You may want to check out a video I just released: “How to spot FAKE shoe sole stitching!“ I think it will answer some of your questions. Sometimes shoes have an insole you have to peel back to see the stitching. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--oRWEzvoVe8.html

@phancius6855 4 года назад

Robert Powers Saleman told me that. I notice that there is thin layer that's clued over the insole, but i don't know how to reclue that layer back onto the insole once i peel it off in oder to inspect if it's genuinely blackstich

@CobblerBob 4 года назад

DAP Contact cement should do the trick.

@joeysalazar4356 2 года назад

I personally prefer blake in formal dress shoes. Looks better.

@CobblerBob 2 года назад

I can see why...

@magnushelin007 5 лет назад

May I ask what the point of the "shank" is?

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

Ergon Hardroll I believe it provides stiffness and support int the arch area of the shoe

@jeremyemilio9378 5 лет назад

What about norvegese welt and hand welting?

@CobblerBob 5 лет назад

jeremy emilio - to tell you the truth, I’ve never personally handled either one... I wouldn’t feel qualified to talk about either one yet! Although technically speaking, in my video “Resoling at Home FAIL” ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ed_h4vVSfJc.html I stitched soles on by hand (horribly done as it was my first attempt) but technically since I did it by hand I think that makes it hand Welted?

@ypure3859 4 года назад

Wooden shank? Maple? Wood because it offers flexibility and shock absorption?? Wondering

@CobblerBob 4 года назад

Y Pure - I honestly have NO idea what kind of wood it is, or why they choose it.

@rajkumarooriba6913 2 года назад

Why is there no welt stitch at the heel portion in a goodyear welted shoes?

@MayTheSchwartzBeWithYou 2 года назад

I think it's mainly for aesthetic reasons-some people don't like stitching in the back and prefer a slimmer heel profile.

@CobblerBob 2 года назад

A 360° welted shoe like Allen Edmonds that you saw in my video DOES have the welt go all the way around. 270° because you’re well to choose, the wealth does not go around the hill. Generally speaking, the stress on the heel is compression only. With a 270° GYW shoe, you can get the heel much tighter to the upper. I guess the short answer is the welt is just not really necessary around the heel. Most of the most expensive English Goodyear welted shoes have a 270° welt.

@agreetodisagree7059 Год назад

Can a Blake stitch shoe be turned into a Goodyear welt?

@CobblerBob Год назад

Well, not really. That's a tough question bc some will say "anything is possible", but for the average professional cobbler? I would venture to say 99% would NOT take that job. Steve at Bedos Leatherworks MIGHT, IF there is a lot of extra leather to stitch the new gemming to the old upper. It's more likely that they would turn it into a Blake Rapid contruction. Picture a Blake Stitched shoe where the new outsole is thinner, and is now not an outsole, but used as a midsole. Then the new outsole would be stitched with a Goodyear Welting machine to the new "midsole" instead of a welt, because there is no welt on a Blake Rapid shoe. It still would not have a corkbed though.

@franciscoalmazanalhambra6965 3 года назад

OK.

@jaymoore4683 2 года назад

Thanks, I’m smarter now.

@CobblerBob 2 года назад

Awesome comment!! LOL

@xochj Год назад

I think... These shoes look the way bunions feel.

@CobblerBob Год назад

LOL

@arisps17 4 года назад

You cannot say that GYW is better than BS because you are comparing totally different things.They both have pros and cons. You said it yourself BS can make the shoes slimmer thus more elegant. If all you do with yourr shoes is walking pavements and going indoors...no diving into mud and deep puddles chances are you don t really need GYW. The cost is significantly higher even with resoling. And there is a limit on how many times you can resole. At some point the upper is going to be beyond repair or might even go out of fashion (ie monk straps they aren t so classic as the oxford) and you don t know when you buy the shoe, how long can you expect for an upper to last?For sure a GYW is going to outlast a BS but can it outlast 2 of them the cost would be almost the same.But 2 BS shoes would offer you more options with your look. BS is as good as it gets. I would choose finesse+lower cost over sturdiness any day of the week.

@CobblerBob 4 года назад

very good points Aris