really? that's nice then ----- check this on RU-vid: "VADER retired PADDLE boarding on LA RIVER (Narrated by Jones Earl James) - S2E1 The River Wild full"
Surfing looks awesome on video! But actually surfing in person is a whole different experience! I started surfing last winter and I have been addicted ever since LOL
@@TheNinjapancake14 LMAO well I started surfing in Ecuador so January is actually the hottest month down there, June is the coldest 😂😂 Not even kidding lol
@@alf5953 aloha spirit is here! Although tourists do take up our beaches and space, it’s our economy and the more people who enjoy our islands the better it is that they are there!
I haven’t surfed in years! I first learned how to surf when I was 8 or 9, but after a year or two, I couldn’t get up on my board. I gave up after that because I was so frustrated with it, but now I want to go back to surfing because I remember how much I loved it when I caught my first wave. I’m saying this at 19, lol.
Nah its pretty common to have those situations in crowded surf places. Rarely it goes wrong, but as you could see those waves are not for newbys therefor this guy has some experience and knows what he's doing :)
@@lonnierandoph153 Someone who is this unable to have a proper conversation and is as terrible at English as you are, shouldn't be called a "pro" at anything. I doubt you can even stay on your board when your laying down. Try getting out of your chair and go outside. The only thing you're a pro at is being undoubtedly stupid.
Yeah, I remember surfing in Ventura one morning and as a fast 6 foot wave rolled towards me there were three 12 foot dolphins moving in formation from right to left inside of the wave and they reminded me of the Blue Angels... and it's scary to duck dive under them as all of that mass goes by over your head.
Surfing is joy possessed the elements. It is speed feels like light-travel. Love the sun's rays shone thru the translucent water glowing like emeralds....the blue saphire depths... tips of the waves sea-spray sparkling like tiniest, crescent diamonds. Certainly closely akin nature experienced in the raw, purely revelation an exceptional few luminescent rare a finest quality.
Happiness in sobriety feels so empty to me. When you inject meth, you get a rush of dopamine that's 600 times the normal amount you get when you feel "rewarded". You actually have that release of dopamine when you do meth. In SOBRIETY, that kind of rush is IMPOSSIBLE. I am not stupid or delusional (well, not about this one particular point). Meth users have a much higher risk of Parkinson's, diabetes, kidney/other organ failure, stroke, and those are just the ones I can list off the top of my head. Ostensibly, Meth will eventually cause me health problems, maybe even death. Friends, I do believe that an intelligent, disciplined individual who refrains from DAILY drug use, and thinks of drugs as TOOLS, and makes determined efforts to REDUCE THE INNATE HARM associated with drug use (especially the unique implications of their particular drug- or drugs- of choice), CAN ENJOY DRUGS FOR AN INDETERMINATE PERIOD WITHOUT BEING HARMED BY THEM. To date, I have never overdosed or had an abcess. When I am using meth, I stay well hydrated and nourished. I take showers and brush my teeth. As a drug addict, I do all that I can to decrease the potential harm that I cause to myself, those who are close to me, and the community at large. Every single day that I am alive, I work hard to be an exemplary human. I'll do anything in my power to help a person in need. Once, I gave a homeless woman my shoes, and rode the bus home in only my socks. I operate with strict kindness and intelligence, or I don't interact with other humans. I stay out of relationships and I absolutely refuse to have sexual relations with men, because I never want to have children who may become addicts themselves, and who will almost definitely suffer due to my own addiction, which I generally don't fight. As a mentally ill drug addict who cannot work, I am inherently indebted to my community. When I go for longer than a week without using meth, I become depressed and despondent. I do meth because it helps me write and draw. Meth helps me come up with new ideas for my stories. On meth, I will focus for 10 hours straight. I am NEVER happier than when I have meth and heroin at my disposal, and everyone leaves me alone. I listen to the radio and work on the illustrated Anthology I have been working on for 20 years. I get most of the work done on meth, and I have considered marketing my book as such, "Completed entirely under the influence of methamphetamine", to show the world that the Faustian bargain one can make with a substance has notable benefits. When the meth starts making me paranoid, or I start to hear monsters walking around my apartment, I just do a big shot of heroin. Then I feel absolutely fine. I only use like this for a maximum of 3 days. These "binges", as you might like to call them, occur 3-6 times a month. During the remaining time, I smoke weed (it's legal where I live) and I do heroin whenever I can. Heroin makes me feel less afraid. I have scary thoughts a lot. Also, I'm schizophrenic*. I was diagnosed at the age of 16, after a traumatic rollover car accident. When I do meth, it exacerbates my condition. I not only hear the demons, but I see them, as well. They are my only true friends, but sometimes they frighten me. I take an antipsychotic, but mostly to satify the state mental health program (which supplements my monthly disability payment if I follow certain rules, and I have to let a social worker take pictures of my apartment every 3 months, among other inconveniences and restrictions). The medication also helps me sleep. However much my voices torment me, I truly love them. They tell me stories I have never heard before, about other worlds in the Universe, about God and Satan, about my past lives, and much more. I love listening to my voices. For the record, they don't approve of my drug use. Anyway. I'm making myself sad because I won't have drugs for like another week :( *I'm actually diagnosed with PTSD, Schizoaffective Disorder, and Borderline Personality Disorder... 2 out of every 10 people with BPD will commit suicide, because it makes having a normal relationship of any type, including platonic friendships, virtually impossible. For the record, I was hearing voices and seeing things other people couldn't see since I was 16 years old. That was a couple of years BEFORE I first tried meth at 18.
@@patronsaintofpoison damn dude this kinda swayed my opinion on drugs like meth and heroin. Do you see yourself ever becoming not reliant on meth/other drugs or maybe you think you will start microdosing? idk but just interested and you got my support i guess
@@finnwilliams830 I do actually microdose. That's precisely the key aspect to my "successful method of addiction". When I mentioned doing "a big shot of heroin" in my last comment, generally the largest amount of heroin I do in a single shot is never more than half a gram. It's worth noting that I have a particularly high tolerance to all opioids due to being on methadone maintenance for 3 years. So, half a gram of heroin at one time is just enough to relax me. Unless I am already tired, I don't "nod off" when I do heroin. I kindof hate nodding off, actually. When I was fresh in my addiction, and heroin still caused me to spontaneously fall asleep, I injured myself in several falls. Also, I fell asleep in my cereal once, and woke up drowning in milk. Another time, I fell in my kitchen, onto the counter, and missed a knife that was drying in the dish rack by one inch. Those incidents caused me to be more careful with my dosing. Any drug user can keep their tolerance at a manageable level by resisting the urge to get "really messed up". I am grateful when I can get 20$ of heroin. If I only get that much, I will do half or even a third when I get it; no, I don't get "messed up" but I enjoy the feeling. I will probably never overdose, unless I get rich someday. If I didn't need to constantly conserve my supply due to my limited monthly income, I can see myself possibly getting stupid. In a sense, being poor has probably saved me from overdose more than anything else. Most drug addicts are not that way, and will do whatever it takes to get more money, so they can get more drugs. But like I said, I try not to let my addiction affect others. And yes, I would like to try "permanent" sobriety (which never ends up being permanent) in the next year or so. I was sober for 6 years, but I got back into it because (this might sound odd) I didn't consider myself a "real drug addict", because I had never injected drugs. I wasn't going to let myself be done with addiction until I had experienced it fully... unfortunately, it became much harder to stop after I started injecting. The same stupid delusional confidence that made me a drug addict ("I won't get addicted") also broke my hard-won sobriety ("I'll shoot up for a little while, but then I'll get sober just like I did before"). I'm going to attempt sobriety in the next year, but I have certain beliefs that will make that hard for me, if not impossible. I am more or less resigned to this life. I cannot handle reality in any normal fashion. I cry and talk excessively, and most humans cannot tolerate being around me for any length of time. I've been told that I am "too intense". But it's totally unconscious on my behalf. Consequently, I get suicidal quite often when I am sober. I have no method by which I can escape from reality, and myself. Even if that escape is just temporary, it's better than not being able to escape at all. The main thing keeping me from getting sober is this: I believe I am the only addict who can bring about public understanding of this condition and fight the terrible stigma against it. I can do this just by openly discussing it, as I am doing with you now. I have never seen another addict as honest and straightforward as me, mostly because they are ashamed and I am not. I would really only be able to do that as an active addict, because in sobriety, I generally want nothing to do with drugs or those actively using them. Everyone has a mission in life... unfortunately, this could be mine. There is no population I can think of who are misunderstood and disliked as much as drug addicts. Only a drug addict can change that. Sorry for the long reply... thank you for reading it :)
Wouw AMAZING VIDEO ....Surfers are so so cool , they are waiting for the perfect WAVE & THEN THEY ARE SLIDES IN THE GREAT HOHLE....THANX FOR SHARING THIS " TOP 10 " !!!!!
