Grafting Citrus 

Thank you!

Thank you!

What is the price of perafilm and how i can buy in pakistan?

You are welcome! Thank you for the feedback!

You're welcome! I am glad that you enjoyed the video. Thank you for liking the video and for subscribing!

You're welcome! Congratulations on your success!

Tam Huynh Thank you! I am glad that you have enjoyed it!

Thank you! I am glad that the videos were helpful. I hope that you succeeded with your grafts!

You're very welcome!

Пожалуйста! Я рад, что вам понравилось.

You're welcome! Thank you for liking the video!

Thank you! Have you fertilized your orange tree? Lack of fertilizer is a common reason that citrus trees fail to flower and fruit. See 7:21 in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d4JwPijoAIg.htmlsi=MilaQett3D5afopW

0MrENigma0 You are very welcome! Thank you so much for your feedback! It was quite a bit of work to make the video, but I think it is doing a lot of good. Since the CCPP is based in California, it will be especially easy and inexpensive for you to order budwood.

Trevor James Thank you for subscribing!

Thank you!

Thank you!

You're welcome! I am really looking forward to tasting the fruit from this tree!! Thank you for liking the video!

How far can grafting go? Lets say you grafted a key lime with a blood orange, is that even possible ?

FloridasCracker I have grafted a sweet lime onto a navel orange tree, so I suspect that it would be possible to graft a key lime onto a blood orange. Rootstocks do have an effect on the taste and texture of the grafted fruit and sometimes it is a negative effect, however. For example, I understand that a pummelo graft on lemon rootstock would not produce good fruit. Also, sometimes there can be long-term graft incompatibilities. If I am top working a tree I usually graft something similar that I think would be likely to produce good-tasting fruit. For a lime rootstock, I would suggest grafting only other limes or lemons. For a lemon rootstock, I have read that grafts of mandarin oranges may taste OK.

You're welcome! I would like to do more. I hope that I can make a new channel narrated in Portuguese eventually.

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

Thank you so much 😀

Ray Mattei Thank you! Good luck with your grafting! I used to travel to Vancouver every year for work. I remember one trip where there was a big snowfall. I am amazed that you can grow citrus with no protection in the winter.

Thank you! I am working on some videos like that.

You are welcome! I am glad that you found it helpful!

Thank you!!

+Romaeish Gardon Thank you!

Thank you! How did they turn out? Sorry for the slow response. RU-vid had incorrectly marked the comment as spam.

¡Muchas gracias!

Thank you and thank you for the suggestion!

Already grafted trees from reputable nurseries are more readily available than rootstocks. In California, cuttings from a tree exposed to the open environment like this one should never be used for propagation because there is a chance that the tree would be diseased. Even without that consideration, the cuttings would be difficult to root and they would make an inferior tree if not grafted to a rootstock.

Jason Turner Thank you! I am glad that you enjoyed the video. I used a nursery tree that I bought locally. It was a tree in a 5 gallon container. This summer I have not seen 5 gallon trees like the one in this video. The diameter of the rootstock was large enough that the bark graft was a good choice. There seems to be a misconception many people have thatbigger is better when buying a citrus tree. The opposite is true. Smaller trees are younger and more vigorous. A smaller tree planted in the ground at the same time as a larger tree will typically overtake the larger tree. A 15 gallon tree will be more expensive and may have a compromised root system. I would recommend a 5 gallon or even a 3 quart tree over the 15 gallon trees. With the smaller trees you can use another grafting technique such as the chip bud if the diameter of the rootstock is not large enough for a bark graft. See:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l1HSOy-3JGU.html The next bud cutting from the CCPP will be in early September, which is still a good time to graft citrus in northern California. Depending upon the weather, grafts may not start growing until the spring. I wish you success with your grafting!

Thank you!

Thank you for the feedback! I'm glad to hear that you got it to work for kaki. It has worked well for me for every fruit variety that I have grafted with it with so far.

Thank you!

You are very welcome! I am glad that you enjoyed the video. I think that you may be able to get parafilm in Thailand. I googled "parafilm in Thailand" and it looks like there are at least a couple of options. It appears that a company in Singapore can ship parafilm to Thailand and there may be local options. It looks like the product is Parafilm M which is different than what I used -- still a good product, but it would need to be cut up into strips. If you are unable to obtain parafilm, I have heard of people using other things such as plumbers' teflon tape, so the product that you are describing may be a suitable alternative. 1.5" seems a bit wide, so you may need to cut it thinner for easier wrapping. If it is not permeable to water and it stretches a bit, I expect that you could get it to work. Since your rootstock is non fruiting, you have nothing to lose by giving it a try. If your graft fails at first you can cut it off and try again. The minimum diameter branch with this technique depends upon the size of your scion. As long as your scion is somewhat smaller than the rootstock the bark grafting technique works well. If your rootstock branch is a larger diameter, you can graft multiple scions and increase your chance of success. If the size of your scion is similar to the size of your rootstock, a cleft graft may be a more suitable type of graft. I am working on a cleft grafting video and will post it here when it is ready. I think I have grafted as small as perhaps 1/2 inch with a bark graft and perhaps as small as 1/4 inch with a cleft graft. For a multi-grafted tree, be sure to pick target branches that will get plenty of light. If they do not get enough light, they will not grow well. Also, do not be shy about cutting off a big branch and grafting to it -- the branch will grow big again with the variety that you graft. If I ever come across a copy of John McPhee's book I will be sure to buy it; thank you for the tip. Good luck with your grafting and I will be happy to help if you have other questions.

+soloflyer1007 Thank you! I ordered the budwood from the CCPP. This video shows how to set up an account and place an order: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OE34G80tcOM.html

Thank you! I am glad that you like the videos. There is another video that I am thinking of making that would be specifically about grafting multiple varieties to the same tree. I started it more than two years ago and now the tree has multiple kinds of fruit on it. For a video like this do you have any specific questions that you would like me to address? I would appreciate any input you may have. It would help me to make a better video I did a couple of other videos showing techniques that I used to add new varieties to existing trees. If you have not seen them yet, you may find them helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_w051zyackM.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xTDoW-NsJTE.html

Thank you! I am glad that you liked the video. I have not tried air rooting. It is not the best propagation technique for citrus; the best citrus trees are grafted. Grafting gives the best quality citrus tree and fruit. Air rooting is best suited for other types of trees. Good luck with your Miechiela Compacta.

I just checked the list and see that they are not listed. You could check with CCPP to see what happened. Perhaps there were so many orders that they have to let the source tree grow before cutting more. They will undoubtedly be made available again in the future. The Tarocco is one of the finest blood oranges and I would recommend it as a substitute for the Boukhobza. I still have not had a Boukhobza fruit from my own tree. I'm really looking forward to seeing how it does in my climate. I agree that the Tahitian is very similar to the Sarawak. I like the Tahitian slightly more, but they are very close. I see that Sarawak is on the list, so I would suggest ordering it if you are eager to get started. Please note that the climate is different in California and pummelos may not be as sweet as the same variety grown in another climate. When the others are made available you can always add branches of them to your existing trees.

Thank you! I wrote an article on the best time for grafting citrus trees here: www.fruitmentor.com/grafting-citrus-trees-best-time Sweet orange grafted to bitter orange rootstock should give good tasting fruit. One issue with bitter orange rootstock is that it is susceptible to citrus tristeza virus. For this reason it is seldom used in California. Here is a good reference on rootstocks: www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/links/documents/Bitters.pdf

Thank you. I am glad that you enjoyed the videos. Here is an article that I wrote on the best time to graft citrus: www.fruitmentor.com/grafting-citrus-trees-best-time May tends to be a good month to graft in my climate and the graft performed in this video was in May. I usually graft based upon temperature.

Thank you! I ordered my budwood from CCPP in California. I put up a web page with budwood programs that I can find: www.fruitmentor.com/citrus-budwood-programs My Spanish is poor, so I have not managed to find any other programs in South America. If you know Spanish you may be able to find some other programs by Google search. If you find information for any other programs, please let me know and I will update that web page. CCPP will ship to countries that allow it. To see if they ship to El Salvador you could just sign up for an account and try to order budwood.

Ben Bratcher Hi Ben, Thank you for the comment and for the great questions! I am not sure what the minimum diameter rootstock would be, but at some point the bark graft would be difficult if the rootstock is too small. The rootstock in the video was also about ½” in diameter. What is key is the ratio. I think that the bark graft would still work if the diameter of the scion is half the diameter of the rootstock, but at some ratio another kind of graft would work better. My second choice would be a cleft graft and my third choice would be a bud graft. I am very close to publishing a video on bud grafting and just started editing one on cleft grafting. When you are cutting into the bark, the bark will give a slight resistance and if you rock the knife as I did in this video you should be able to feel the knife cutting through the bark. The wood gives more resistance and you can feel it because it keeps the knife from going deeper. You do not need to cut into the wood. One suggestion would be to cut the rootstock off a little higher than the intended graft location and experiment cutting into the bark if you want to see what it feels like before you do the real graft. The length of the cut part of the scion was about 2”. I think that it a good length to try for, but it does not need to be exact. Good luck with your grafting!

fruitmentor Thanks Dan! I now have all your suggested tools, so here I go... wish me luck!

Ben Bratcher Good luck with your grafting! If you want to try a backup bud graft, I published the bud grafting video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l1HSOy-3JGU.html

Thank you!

You're welcome! The following book mentions the use of Sweet lime as rootstock: www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/links/documents/Bitters.pdf It seems that it used to be used, but is no longer common because of some problems. Grafts can bloom the next season.

fruitmentor thank you!

Tanveer Inayat You are welcome! I just checked the yearly weather for Abu Dhabi. For typical weather, I think the best months to graft citrus would be March, April, and November. In June, July, August, and September it will probably be too hot. In your climate you will want to take measures so that the heat does not dry out the graft during the healing period; I suggest wrapping with aluminum foil to reflect sunlight. I have no experience grafting mangoes yet, but I think it will be similar to citrus for you; what I have read is that you want the minimum temperature not much lower than 21C for mango grafting. In my latest grafting video I included a part about temperatures for grafting citrus:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l1HSOy-3JGU.html

When the bark on the rootstock is peeled back, there will be some cambium both on the bark and on the wood underneath. The cambium of the scion will be exposed and will be able to make contact with the cambium of the rootstock.

Thank you for the suggestion! If I do not do a video, perhaps I will do an article.

Thank you for the suggestion! I did a livestream from my garden: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-S37VSB8oZxU.html

If the scion is much smaller than the rootstock, the bark graft works well. If the scion is 60% the diameter of the rootstock, I’d probably prefer a cleft graft.

Whether it is illegal depends upon where you live. In some places that don't have Asian Citrus Psyllids yet it is legal to do it. In some other places that have Asian Citrus Psyllids it may be legal but a very bad idea (often places where there is not a citrus industry and the local government does not care if all of the citrus trees in that location die.) I sat down with the director of the CCPP and asked your question from the California perspective. This interview covers your question from the California perspective in the first three minutes: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JAAe8TnP3fQ.html

You may be able to graft if it is warm enough. Here is an article that you may find helpful: www.fruitmentor.com/grafting-citrus-trees-best-time

Tahitian and Sarawak are very similar but different. If I were to grow only one of them it would be Tahitian. I slightly prefer the flavor of Tahitian and most people seem to prefer it. They are very close, though. If you have not seen it, I wrote an article that has photos of both Tahitian and Sarawak. You can find it here: www.fruitmentor.com/californiapummelos

Yes. It works well to add more than one scion with this technique. For a target branch diameter as small as the one in this video I use one scion because more than one is difficult to wrap with parafilm. For larger diameter branches where it would not be difficult to wrap them, I like to use more than one scion. I am planning another video later this year showing this technique with two scions on the same branch.

Yes. I have used this technique with success to make multi-variety citrus trees. It works well.

I had the same kind of tree a cocktail tree it grows a Meyers lemon ruby red grapefruit and navel oranges

It would not be helpful for the small wound in this video, but for a large diameter branch it can be helpful to seal the cut end of the branch rather than completely wrapping it with parafilm. This video shows and example (but with vinyl tape as the wrapping material): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fstBNYNcddg.html

mamuka panchulidze You are welcome! I am glad that you enjoyed it. As far as timing goes it depends upon the weather and the temperatures where you live. I think this is an aspect that people commonly get wrong and it causes grafts to fail. I included more about this at around the 7 minute mark in my latest grafting video. Here is a link to the latest video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l1HSOy-3JGU.html

Trevor James Hi Trevor, I took a look at your yearly weather and it looks like the temperatures are good for grafting citrus all year. I think that you can be successful in the rainy season, but you will have to be more careful in wrapping your graft than I have to be. I do not have to worry about it because it does not rain here when temperatures are favorable for grafting citrus. I understand that rainwater can kill a graft if it leaks in. By wrapping the parafilm from bottom to top, you should be able to make it so that the rain water does not get to the graft. Good luck with your grafting!

Trevor James because off high humidity,you have to wrap the gtaft 3x

That is so frustrating when the tags come off. It has happened to me too. I have a web page where I list grafting tools and I have a link to some of these aluminum labels. The brand available changed and the price seems to have gone way up, but maybe it is a good starting place and you can find something better: fruitmentor.com/grafting-supplies-and-tools The plant training wire is also handy to attach labels to large diameter branches.

I have some more on the way soon!

fruitmentor I've been watching all of your video all over again repeatedly

I'm glad that you have been enjoying them. Do you have any suggestions for future videos? Do you have any questions on the current videos? If so, please let me know -- maybe I can use them in my videos for next year.

fruitmentor t budding not working mostly for me.. the bark grafting however are much more promising ...i did it on lime tree and puring flower.. u don't know how much your videos are helping me.. tysm

Rootstocks do matter. The affect the quality and characteristics of the fruit. I have had success grafting sweet limes onto a lemon tree. Here is a link to a very good book on citrus rootstocks: www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/links/documents/Bitters.pdf

The CCPP sells rootstock cuttings, but not rootstocks with roots. Sometimes when I start with a nursery tree, I graft high enough above the original graft union that I can get some branches of the original variety in addition to the new variety that I am grafting. This way it is possible to get two kinds of fruit on the same tree with only one graft.

I suggest that you ask CCPP. It may depend upon where you live, the season, and how they package it.

I am growing some rootstocks from seeds right now and plan some videos on the subject. One tip is that it helps to peel the seeds. Growing the rootstocks from cuttings is possible, but a lot of trouble.

@@Fruitmentor was going to order some root stock seeds, but minimum was like a quart of seeds. Never will use that many before they go bad.

Yes. It would be nice if it were possible to order in small quantities. Citrus seeds do not last very long.

+Ho Seyha I will be happy to help if you have any specific questions.

For easy and high success rate, I would suggest T-budding and patch budding. I think chip budding would be next. The scion grafting techniques are a little harder.

Hi Jaime, I don't think this is worthwhile for most people. With the time and expense involved it would usually be a better choice to just buy a tree from a reputable local nursery. The only reason I started doing this is because there are some unusual varieties that I wanted to grow that I could not find in a local nursery. If I could buy the tree that I wanted elsewhere I would not bother grafting myself.

fruitmentor Good morning. oh no, I'm not taking away anything from these videos, I believe they're terrific! By the way, I created my account on ccpp and would like to help by supporting to grow my own Meyer lemon tree, although I could buy it from the nursery. I would be trying these 3 rootstocks: Yuma Ponderosa Lemon, Rough Lemon and C-35 Citrange. I'm just stuck on the bud to use? I know it has to be a Mandarin....:-) but don't know which one. I have just ordered my bark pealing knife for horticultural work. :-)

I think Yuma Ponderosa Lemon and Rough Lemon are good choices for lemon rootstock and C-35 is good for oranges, mandarins, and pummelos. If you are going to try the rooting, the Yuma Ponderosa Lemon will probably be the easiest to root and could be used for oranges, mandarins, and pummelos if you have trouble with C-35. If you are looking to graft a Mandarin, you might try Pixie, or USDA 88-2. These are seedless and quite delicious and are rare in nurseries. Good luck with your project!

fruitmentor Oh my goodness. Thank you for referring those. I will surely give them a try. Thank you again and please post more videos, they can change the world! :-)

Thank you! I have found that cleft grafting works very well, too. I like to use the cleft graft when the rootstock and scion are close to the same diameter. I find the bark graft a bit more versatile. In cases where the branch/rootstock are a larger diameter, I prefer the bark graft. Also if the scion has an unusual shape I find that the bark graft tends to work well anyway. Congratulations on your graft! I bet that it will fruit this year, although I have discovered one variety here in California that exhibits juvenility even when grafted and takes a few years to bear fruit. Thank you for the greek translation correction; I have updated it above. The machine translations do not work very well. I have submitted the video to amara.org and added English subtitles. See: amara.org/en/videos/ie8rubJUnBOM/info/grafting-citrus/ This should make crowdsourced translations easy, like editing on Wikipedia. I invite you to make Greek the first translated language if you would like to give it a try. I hope that by spreading the word about citrus greening and clean budwood that citrus greening can be kept out of the few regions where it is not present.

fruitmentor i would love to when i have free time:)

csandreas1 That would be very cool!

Bark grafting does indeed work great for those angular scions. Another technique where they actually come in quite handy is chip budding: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l1HSOy-3JGU.html It is easy to cut a nice chip from one of those scions and the bark does not have to be slipping for that technique.

The same technique can be used on a mature lemon tree, but lemon will be an unsuitable rootstock for many citrus varieties. Are you sure that your tree is a lemon tree? Sometimes the rootstock can start growing below the graft-bud union and because it is so vigorous it takes over the entire tree, crowding out the original graft. This seems to be very common. Rootstock fruit is typically sour. I wonder if your unsatisfactory fruit is from a rootstock. When I moved into my current house I had an unknown tree with the rootstock taking over; I caught it in time and now I have a nice Cara Cara tree.

fruitmentor My best guess is that it might be a very very orange-flavored and round shaped meyer lemon. Too sour to eat off the tree but very orangey for other purposes that you'd typically use a meyer lemon for. I also have a mature lemon tree that bears ok lemons. I'm interested in grafting some tangerine, lime, and citron.

newavehotdog It sounds like a good candidate for grafting. I have heard that tangerines would do OK grafted to lemon, but have not tasted them myself yet. If I had such a tree as yours, I would graft it. If you cut a branch with a larger diameter than the one in the video, you may be able to graft multiple scions (depending upon the diameter) and increase your chance of success. Good luck!

fruitmentor Thanks for all the advice, this video was super helpful. I am a visual learner. I topworked my tree today! I watered the tree when I finished but I was wondering if I need to feed the tree or anything else to help it along. Also, do I need to display the nifty tags that the CCCP sent me? So nervous, hope my patient recovers from surgery!

newavehotdog You are welcome! I am very glad that it was helpful! I do not do anything special for the trees after grafting. I just make sure that they receive normal watering and fertilization. You do not need to display the CCPP tag. I just use an aluminum label for durability. I hope that your graft succeeds! When I was first learning my grafts failed often, but persistence leads to success; when a graft fails, just cut the branch off lower and try again.

Here is one method to grow rootstock: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bjtr44QCi78.html Another option is to just buy an inexpensive tree from a reputable local source and graft to it.

It looks like the budwood did indeed come directly from Tunisia. I'm not sure if I missed that line in the following article or it was added later: citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/boukhobza.html This made me think it came from Corsica: "It was selected for introduction to the US on a visit to Corsica associated with the 1997 ISCN conference."

I would choose a bark graft for small scions. I like the cleft graft in situations where the target branch is too small for a bark graft. I would not do a double cleft graft on citrus; if the branch is big enough I would prefer a bark graft. If the diameter of the branch is large enough I like to do more than one bark graft.

Cool, thanks for your insights.

Here is an article on the best time for grafting citrus: www.fruitmentor.com/grafting-citrus-trees-best-time

Hi Shelby, The rootstock can be hard to find. One option is to order rootstock budwood from CCPP, graft it to your tree, and plant the seeds of the fruit. Another option is to order the cuttings and root the budwood as I show in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fY0wskA9IGY.html I have found that Flying dragon is hard to root, though. Some other varieties root more readily. Thanks for clarifying that you are from Wisconsin. We could not do what you are contemplating in California because of the disease problem, but it is OK in Wisconsin since citrus trees cannot survive the winter outside there.

fruitmentor I was thinking of sprouting store bought key limes to use as a root stock. they get 6 to 13 ft tall; but if I kept it in a pot, I theorize it will stay on the smaller side. what are your thoughts?

I think that you would be able to graft to it, but if you are grafting sweet fruit like oranges to it the fruit may be inferior to that from a tree on a proper rootstock. I am not sure about the size, but if you are growing in pots you can easily manage by pruning.

Here is an article that I wrote on timing: www.fruitmentor.com/grafting-citrus-trees-best-time

Congratulations! I am glad that you found it useful!

Yes. Did you figure it out from the videos somehow? I am a computer engineer and I spent 20 years in the wireless industry focused on cell phone technology. When I saw that the internet was enabling the spread of deadly citrus diseases and putting citrus trees all over the world in danger, I decided to instead use computers to save citrus trees from disease.

It might still take, but the probability would be reduced. Some grafters only cut the piece off of the end at an angle, so this alone may be sufficient without shaving the edges. Shaving the edges without cutting the angled piece off of the end can also work. I would not want to try the graft without doing at least one of these two things.

okay, another similar technique would be this : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1b3EmyqkPE0.html. Do you think it is better on bigger trees?

I do think that the bark graft is a good technique for bigger trees. I am not a fan of that video because it ignores the effect of apical dominance and gives people the idea that a graft in the middle of the branch will work well. Other videos on that channel show that it does not work well. Although the technique of cutting the scion clearly works at least some of the time (in terms of the graft healing), I wonder if there might be some disadvantages. Here is a common way that topworking is done on farms by experienced grafters: www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0010/136675/Reworking-citrus-trees.pdf

I have never seen it down, but I am not happy with the performance of the current hosting company in terms of speed. I will be switching to a faster host soon, so I hope that will help if you had performance issues.

I switched to the new host to make it even faster. Please let me know if you see any issues.

And for bark grafting like you do in this video, does it mean it worked if the scions are still green after 2 weeks?

I have not tried the plastic/paper bag steps from that document. My understanding is that the plastic bag serves a similar function to the parafilm. They both help to increase humidity. The paper bag serves a similar function to the aluminum foil. With the method of wrapping the scion with the parafilm, the aluminum foil part could be omitted if the temperatures are not too high. My understanding is that professional grafters tend to prefer the method of wrapping the scions with parafilm. This avoids labor associated with the paper bags. The professional grafters would not use the aluminum foil. They would graft at a time of year where the temperature is lower. For a hobbyist grafting at home, the aluminum foil can allow grafting later in the season when it would otherwise be too hot.

Green after two weeks is a good sign, but they could still die. One mistake people sometimes make is to unwrap the parafilm to check on the grafts. It is better to be patient. I tend to cover with aluminum foil and not even look at them until 3 or 4 weeks after grafting.

Ok, I checked on them all by uncovering the aluminum foil, but I put it back and won't look again for another week. I've checked on 21 of my grafts and 14 of them look green still.

Unfortunately I have had more failures. 3 cleft grafts of frost owari satsuma, kishu and murcott mandarin onto a young gold nugget mandarin tree failed. 1 kishu, 1 murcott mandarin, 2 Yuzu, 2 Australian finger lime, and 1 Midknight Valencia bark grafts onto branches of a large mature bearss lime also failed. 1 remaining Midknight Valencia bark graft is still green at the buds but the rest of the stick appears browning and I don't have much hope. I found many of the failed grafts were moldy, and especially on the mature lime there is a lot of moisture build up under the grafting tape. I may try again with the plastic and paper bag methods. The sap is definitely flowing to the wounds, as I believe that is where all the moisture is coming from. 2 Cara Cara cleft grafts onto a young Rio Red Grapefruit worked. 3 of 4 Sanguinelli and Tarocco blood orange cleft grafts onto a Moro blood orange worked. 1 Meiwa kumquat bark graft onto Nagami kumquat appears to have worked. 1 Frost Owari Satsuma bark graft onto a branch of the bearss lime tree appears to have worked. Well, none of these have leafed out yet but they are still green after removing the tin foil at 3 weeks.

Wow. It had been a long time since I watched this video. I made it too long. I wish that I had edited it more. For the ten weeks, I was just saying that was the duration of the timelapse video. I left this tree in the shade for three weeks for healing.Then I moved it back into the sunlight and then it started growing four weeks after moving it back into the sun. For most of these videos I have uploaded subtitles, so in cases where it is not clear what I am saying, it can often be cleared up by turning on the subtitles and backing up the video.

Meadow Maker Thank you! I have read that poncirus trifoliata is not compatible with Eureka lemons, but I understand it is used for other lemons.Here is a nice article on rootstock compatibility (including lemons), but unfortunately no mention of poncirus trifoliate: ucanr.org/sites/ucceventura/files/57694.pdf

fruitmentor Oh, great, that's a good one, I haven't found that so far, thank you. By the way, can you sterilise the scion? In micropropagation you can sterilise the plant material in 10% bleach solution. Is that a possibility? I suppose not or it would be done? Thanks

Meadow Maker I do not think it is necessary to sterilize the scion. I would have thought it might be harmful to use bleach, but maybe not if 10% bleach is typical for micropropagation; I will try to learn more. One case where sterilizing the plant with bleach might be useful is when grafting to an old neglected tree. I grafted to an old tree that had molded mummies of unpicked fruit and ants farming scale creating even more mold. I tried sterilizing the tree with alcohol before grafting, but learned that alcohol does not kill mold spores; I lost many of those grafts to mold. Bleach kills mold spores, so perhaps I would have had better success if I had sterilized with diluted bleach instead -- that is if it is not harmful to the rootstock. When grafting to newer trees without such issues I have not seen many graft failures from mold.

fruitmentor If you do use bleach the kind I'm talking about is Milton Sterillsing Fluid, I think you have that in the US too, for sterilising babies bottles, not the toilet cleaner kind, that probably would be harmful. Thanks.

Meadow Maker Thank you for the tip!