When you need to propagate good varieties that don’t respond well to other grafting techniques, using the T-Budding Grafting Technique in late summer or early fall with dormant buds can be the answer. Since the bud is protected inside the bark, it’s less prone to dehydration problems that can be an issue with other bud grafting techniques. Try it when propagating peaches, plums, citrus and many other fruit trees. if you liked the video or if you have any questions, leave a comment and I will try to answer as many as I can.
Most peaches, plums, nectarines, almonds, etc, which belong to the genus Prunus are compatible. Nevertheless, some cultivars might fail while others will work. You just have to try. Regarding apples, you can graft any number of Apple varieties into a granny smith (one different in every branch, if you want). The problem will be managing the vigor between the different grafted varieties. Check this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L_JI7n6QE7k.html In the last grafting example, I have 7 different varieties of Pears grafted to the same Pear Tree.
Hello, Mr. Sacadura. Thank you for your excellent videos. I live in San Jose, CA and am new to grafting. I have 4 small (one vigorous, one moderately so) potted MP-29 rootstocks. This is hard to get in CA, almost impossible outside of wholesale. It's very resistant to oak root fungus (Amarillia) which is a big problem in our yard. I also have a vigorously growing hard-to-get heirloom peach tree scion. It was grafted this April onto the only available rootstock at that time -- rootstock which is NOT oak root fungus resistant. My aim is to graft this growing peach tree onto this disease-resistant rootstock so I can plant it into a specially prepared spot in our yard. (We all assumed the MP-29 rootstock would be bigger when it arrived this winter --it was new to the local rare plant organization I got to order it-- so the peach cutting could be grafted to it directly. Instead, I had the dormant peach scion grafted onto the non-disease resistant rootstock in April just so the peach could grow this season in case I can't get a cutting next winter.) In short, my scion and rootstock are very limited. 2.5 weeks ago (early June), I did a simple bud graft to one of the less vigorous MP-29s. I think it's alive (thanks for your instructions). But since then, one of the other MP-29s has really grown out with multiple branches. Since I also have vigorous peach growth (~3-4 long branches) of about the same diameter (pencil width), I'm wondering if I can graft a branch to the MP-29 (trim off the ends and leaves) instead of just a bud to take advantage of this vigor and speed up the process? I've seen this done elsewhere but the rootstock was cut clear through pretty low and the graft was attached near the cut like you would a chip-bud graft only with additional wrapping support. It gives multiple buds a chance to grow. Would something like that be possible WITHOUT completely cutting off the top of my MP-29 plant in case it doesn't work? In other words, could I treat the rootstock like chip-bud grafting (keep some leaves above the graft to keep juices flowing until the graft takes off)? I figure if I can graft a branch instead of a bud, it would help the peach get established sooner. But I don't want to lose most of my healthiest MP-29 if it fails. I would greatly appreciate your input! Thank you.
These techniques are so useful even for ornamental shrubs and trees. I have a small yard so I used your grafting techniques to graft several different Ficus elastica cultivars onto a Ficus lyrata. As well as grafting different colors of Angel trumpet vines into one tree. Thank you for sharing your techniques for trees in dormancy and when there is free-flowing sap.
Another valuable video! Thank you. I did T-budding a few year back in fall. T-budding & whip and tongue in spring are what I love to do the most for grafting.
Truly education comes from one another freely and in common. From this here work is coming a better way of raising a generation lost from lack of love for the truth. Doing the work for our master now that we know Him is the love of neighbour. All of the treasures are found in nature. To focus on one part of it is understand the whole. Much appreciation and love to all.
@@JSacadura I am moving to a new home in a while and plan to have fruit trees and a whole produce garden, so your videos are a gold mine to me right now. :D
It’s winter here now in Australia, June July August, winter ends August then following Spring starts in September, October to November, summer is December to February-and Fall starts March a April May.
Thanks for make this video.I'm from Bangladesh. In my country I never get parafilm easily .So, I want to get a video to using another types of grafting tap without parafilm.
With this type of graft you can use plastic grafting tape to secure the grafts. You can even use transparent plastic bags cut into narrow strips. Just be sure to avoid covering the bud. If you do, be sure to cut the plastic in the bud area after a few weeks, just in case the bud starts growing. It won't be able to break free from the plastic as it does with the parafilm.
Amazing as always, sir I do have a question ❓ Is aluminium foil covering needed to all types of grafting or only few choosen one, as I see you used aluminium foil in some cases and not in others...
?? Todos los vídeos del canal tienen subtítulos en español, incluso este. Es una cuestión de activar los subtítulos y elegir la lengua pretendida en las configuraciones del vídeo.
Thank you for the instructions. I have a question regarding to choosing rootstock. What is best location on the tree for the scion to be graft on? Do I graft the scion on the main branch or new branch? Do I do it top tree or bottom tree? If I'm grafting it in spring instead of summer or fall, would it be growing in the same year?
I know this is a year old, but in case you're wondering for next season- I'm not too sure since I just started horticulture myself, but I know you want to graft the scion on a newer branch, one that's tender, about 1-2 years old. Not Hardwood! (I think some can work with Hardwood though but honestly I don't remember.) Also I think the time does affect it, as I'm learning it, late summer is the best time to propagate fruit trees by budding, I'm not sure for non-fruit trees. I think the location of the graft doesn't matter on the tree, as long as the branch is new and sporting new growth and has no disease. (The branch the guy uses in the video is the best example I can give) Also if you're planning on starting your own rootstalk, my textbook said they are "usually started from seed in fall to the size of a pencil by July or August." By then the buds should be mature enough for use. After all, I haven't don't this myself yet, but I am planning to come Summer. (If anyone would like to correct me let me know, I'm still learning too so any help would be good.)
Thanks a lot again for sharing your knowledge! Could be possible for Master Sacadura to make a video about grape's grafting? I unsuccessfully tried several times in Spring & Summer! I will try again now in fall.
I'm in zone 9a. Its getting chilly at night (below 50º F - 10ºC). So most fruit trees are starting to drop their leaves and reducing sap flow, so graft healing is very slow and might fail.
Yes, definitively. Check my video on grafting grapes (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XHvcreBnQYI.html) where budding is one of the techniques used.
@@JSacadura hi ... Actually I did and I'm happy to tell you of great success in spring grafting.. I put nebbiolo buds on some established rooted vines. Some of them gave me several meters of growth in Niagara region Canada.
Tenho videiras de mesa para consumo próprio mas pouca disponibilidade para lhes dedicar a tenção que mereciam nesta área complicada (muita humidade ambiental) e, por isso, são raros os anos que tiro delas tudo o que poderiam produzir (tento evitar usar pesticidas ao máximo). De futuro, pode ser que surjam alguns videos sobre o tema.
You are referring to peaches, I presume. In North America you might find some of the cultivars mentioned in this article - homeguides.sfgate.com/low-chill-peach-trees-75882.html In my orchard I have some low chill peaches and nectarines (like Lola or Victor ) but I believe they are only available in european dealers. These have very, very early bloom dates (has most low chill varieties do), so they are unsuitable in areas with late frosts. Artic Glo white nectarine, surprisingly, produced a decent crop this year. It requires 400--500 chill hours, and we probably had less than half of that, this past winter. Most peach trees with higher chill requirements didn't produce at all.
Thank you very much for your information....very quiet, thoughtful, and helpful. A question.....can I graft an edible pear tree onto a weeping pear tree (Pyrus salicifolia)? Regards from New Zealand.
sir is there is any difference between budding or grafting in case of fruit quality,early fruiting etc.. so which is good for fruit tree grafting or budding?
The resulting plants will provide identical fruits. The grafting technique used (budding or grafting) has no influence in the fruit quality of the future tree.
A poda de pessegueiros está no topo da lista dos vídeos a fazer sobre técnicas de poda para o próximo ano (assim a disponibilidade de tempo o permita).
Si, también funciona en higueras. El primero vídeo en mi canal - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3ZD2fiGbWzo.html - ejemplifica esta técnica. De cualquier forma prefiero las técnicas utilizadas en este vídeo más reciente - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NBV9OIfQlaY.html
I have an established espalier apple tree, with1 or 2 foot long bare spots on the cordons, that I'd like to bud graft onto, to fill the branch out. You said after the graft takes, to always cut off all the the growth ahead of the graft, but that would mean cutting off my cordon. Would it be ok to just let the graft take and grow into a fruiting spur and not cut off the growth ahead of the graft? I want to do 2 or 3 on each of the 6 variety branches.
