Regarding the part cooling, maybe you can set a minimum layer time for the chimney. It seemed to still be partially melted while the next layer was being printed, which makes it sag. Very cool project!
@@HomoFaciens Sugar doesn't melt anything like how plastic does. It starts decomposing before it melts. It would likely be some other extruder head if it works at all. I think it's been done as a powder bed type printer though.
@JeffDM I have done that with a previous iteration of this extruder: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ea2dfdTszqM.html Will add some crystal inhibitor (e.g. citric acid) to make things better. Stay tuned!
Wow! Great work! Now I wonder if it would even help that much to have a custom machined screw which fit the bore perfectly. There doesn't seem to be that much performance left to gain.
Thanks! If you had a look at the previous videos of this series, you can see why a gap between bore and screw is essential to make this type of extruder work: The air must be able to escape. I am in the process of building an EDM machine to create more precise extruder tubes and screw couplers but will stick with the normal wood screws, because they do their job, are easy to source and cheap. Well, I still see room to boost the performance - stay tuned!
Creating something that hasn't been done before doesn't happen over night. Give me some more time and the granule printer will become a replacement for (at least my own) filament printers.
I am using Prusa slicer. Flow rate is determined same as with filament: Print something and have a close look at the result. If underextrusion, raise the flow rate, if there is overxtrusion lower the flow rate. No rocket science needed.
