Your channel is what I wanted to create. The good news is that I was correct in thinking that this kind of content would be popular. The bads news (for me) is that you're already doing it. And doing it well!
I enjoy an old method for CO2 generation. Water with baking soda. pour to mix with vinegar. It's a gas. Easy to design a collector/distributor. Even some automation. Decdes ago in Mother Earth News Mag., there was an article of a man that experimented with red and blue color filters in his greenhouse. Blue benefits foliage. More red improved the flowering stages
Thank you for all of your information (this video and others). Many of your ideas are scalable. They work in my tiny ~25 sq ft greenhouse or in the much larger greenhouses that you show. You've given me a lot of ideas for next year (starting in less than 90 days). I have to move my greenhouse before the 2021 fall growing season begins. For me, this is just a hobby and a learning experience. This upcoming Fall, Winter, Spring season, I want to grow tomatoes in the greenhouse. It should be fun.
Awesome ideas, but one caveat. It’s very true that increased CO2 will increase plant growth, but studies have shown that the resulting fruits and vegetables have a lower nutrient density. I don’t know if this is mitigated through hydroponics or use of nutrient dense soil, but something to keep in mind.
@@wascalywabbit Maybe you think I have all day to Google to crap. Well I'm not as smart as you. To be able to spend all day googling crap. I'm only smart enough to have a halfway normal life.
Plants do benefit from a bit more CO2 but only during daylight hours. In sunlight plants photosynthesize and take in CO2 and give off O2. At night with no sunlight to make photosynthesis happen they respire like we do O2 in and CO2 out. Also compost heat. Each layer of protective plastic you can put over your plants is one grow zone.
Tip on the PH meters don't cheap out on them and maintain them, if you want your probe to be accurate and last a long time always keep in in a KCL solution when not in use and NEVER PUT a probe in RO/DI water always make sure you have some Anions/Cations in there or it will damage your probe. that being said I'm year 3 on my oldest blue lab and it still hold calibration.
Another possibility for insulating could be adapting some "umbrella house" {PAHS} techniques by isolating the soil under the structure by putting in perimeter insulation (of your choice, though appropriate for use underground) to a level below the frostline. You also want to make sure insulation and the soil under the structure stays dry (dampness in the root zone should be fine, but it shouldn't get wet further down), as water is an excellent conductor of heat. This creates a large heat sink that will store heat throughout the year as well as each day. You could also build an insulated tamped earth wall or berm (appropriately stabilized to prevent collapse) on the north side and insulate it as well. It could use dirt excavated for a "buried" greenhouse, basement or pond. An advantage to an insulated berm is that you can add heat exchange loops (air or liquid) as you build it up. This can be connected to an air handler as well as hooking in supplemental solar.
Maybe you can add to your cheap tricks for tiny greenhouses? I have 3 extra cheap tricks. Local bylaws only allowed me a tiny glass greenhouse 10 sq meters (107 sq ft) without getting a permit and paying a percentage of the build cost. (They estimate the build cost, and I do it diy, so the permit might double my cost) The shed rule sizes cover greenhouses here. I tried to get the council to have a larger limit for greenhouses but they refused. So I have 2 greenhouses made of recycled single pane glass, but it's a stupid solution because there is so much more surface and heat loss. Anyways, I would like it if you mentioned some tricks for tiny greenhouses. Number 1 is a solar panel running 80 mm computer fans that blow air down from the roof through "temporary plastic downspout", and then through 3 inch or 4 inch pipes under the soil to store the heat and release the moisture. In a tiny greenhouse, I have 4 of the fans and it is amazing how much heat they move into the soil, especially in the spring. Number 2 I have 6 mill plastic under the beds and it drains into water half barrels under the beds. Because 10 sq meters is so small, I use an airlift pump and 'boar scare" combo to Automatically water the beds. The airlift pump runs from a marina 200 air pump that is on a timer. Number 3. I use clothes line as my downpipe. It works for all but the heaviest rain. And it is easy to move the bottom by a foot or so, and you can even bring it through the wall easily.
Does a layer of 6 mil plastic stapled onto both sides of a 2X6 roof with 2X4 purlins work as well as an inflated 2-layer GH roof? The electric line is too far away to use the fan. It's closed on each end of the roof. Thanks for all of you videos! I've watched most, if not all, of them.
Floor insulation is not only good for the greenhouse, but also good for you. Standing on a cold floor will make you unhappy and feet & leg muscles ache. Once I get cold feet, the rest of me gets achy and miserable. Not good when you have to concentrate on plant care and enjoying your greenhouse.
If someone has to do all this to grow in a greenhouse. You miles well grow indoors. Last year i built a small 10x12 greenhouse. Just for material it cost me$2400.00. That's without my labor cost. If I were to add everything that you say. Shit you are talking$10,000 plus. To me that makes growing in a greenhouse not worth it. While you can do the same thing indoors and really have better control of everything. Yes I know indoors you have to supply the light for your grow. But if you really think about it. That's better because you can control it. While in a greenhouse you can't. And just to let everyone know. Last week I put my greenhouse up for sale. It's just not worth all the bs. Especially sense I've been growing indoors for the last 10 years with great results. And very few problems. This is just my opinion. Which really doesn't matter. Unless you really want the truth.....
wow - you sure know how to pay TOP dollar for everything. I think the salesmen see you comming and smile. I didn't pay even a 1/4 of what you're talking about for my stuff
@@SimpleTek I used 2x4s. That I put 2 coats of ext. simi gloss on before I even started to build it. The foundation. I put 3 treated 2x4s in the 10 foot direction. Then drilled 3 holes in each. Then pounded 3 pieces of 3 foot rebar into those. Then built a 10'x12' box on top of those. Ran some joist. Installed 1/2" plywood on top of that. Of it had 2 coats of paint. Then built 8 foot walls. The greenhouse is almost 15' tall. Skinned it all with polycarbonate. That's where the cost came from, plus the size of the greenhouse. I ran electricity to it. Installed 4 ex. fans. It's got one big vent at one end and 2 at the other. And 4 interior fans. I wanted something I could grow in. Not something that I couldn't walk in like most greenhouses. This thing will last forever. Where your's probably won't last 2 years. So who saw who coming. LOL 😂.
Having just come from watching your video on the Korean under-floor heating with smoke (ondol), and then hearing "plants do well with a lot of CO2," I'm now wondering if you could vent the cook fire through your ondol/hypocaust situation and then let it out *inside* the greenhouse to encourage plant growth. Obviously you'd have to really look after your vents, for preventing both CO2 buildup and heat buildup, but... What do you think, Simple Tek and everyone else?
My patio cover is made of suntuf and it's like a hot greenhouse during the summer. I had the south facing panels covered with shade cloth thinking it would keep the patio from heating up so much. It didn't seem to. Then i noticed how hot shade cloth gets in the sun and read that shade cloth absorbs heat. So I got on a ladder and just felt the suntuf panels of the patio cover and found that the panels that were covered with shade cloth were noticeably hotter than the uncovered suntuf. This led me to conclude that the heat absorbed by the shade cloth was being transferred to the suntuf hence heating up the patio more. Am I onto something?
For CO2 enrichment Solution. What if I use the exhaust of wood burning, cool it, then remove the soot and other particles using filters. Possibly bubbling the air through water. Then distribute that air loaded with CO2, through tubes over the plants. Could that work ?
Hi! I'm looking at the chart at 11:50. It tells me, plants are growing better/faster with a bit more CO2. But I'm wondering... The chart shows 300 ppm as 100% growth... Nowadays we are around 420 ppm. Does this mean Earth grows plants 50-60% faster now?
@@SimpleTek the TH 16 can also control other things like fans etc through scenes in the phone app that will talk to the other switches based on readings from temp and humidity sensor. you just put them on their own sonoff diy switches
Just a comment about the CO2. I have a CO2 meter. My house has high CO2 in the winter because we have the windows closed to keep the heat in. So, why not pipe air from the house to a greenhouse? If the pipe is underground, the air won't loose too much heat and if the blower is driven by a solar panel, it only blows air to the greenhouse when it is sunny and the plants need the gas. (It is often cloudy in Victoria in winter).
@@superresistant0 Commercial greenhouses burn natural gas to give the same effect. Plants get a huge boost if CO2 levels are high. I have sat in my 10 sq meter greenhouse with the windows closed and the sun shining and my breathing will boost the CO2 levels from around 300 PPM to about 650 PPM. But on a sunny day, that's it! Ideal for the plants on a sunny day is about 1100 PPM. So absolutely, the pipes can vent my house, lower the high CO2 levels in the house and improve greenhouse production at the same time. Plus, they can have double use as heat storage under the ground.
@@superresistant0 about a kg per day or if you could breath it out pure, just over 500 liters. So when the sun is shining, its good to be in the greenhouse and have the plants eat up your bodies global warming waste production.
first begin my building your green house on radiant energy of the root of the plants, then isolate the top of plants to isolate the plant in tube or other level of plastic, the weak isolation make energy lost very fast in green house distribution and management of heat as important than generator of heat..
@@SimpleTek I know but they have probably saved my life a couple of times. I did a lot of research and found that electronic switches in gagets won't trip them, but my electronic timers still did. I am changing out the GFCI's to newer ons and hope it makes a difference.
Roll-Ups are great! But the shaft & assembly are usually flimsy , not well built & rigid construction. What ever you design , I would use a low torque stepping motor (low & slow). Regards.
Amazon has a ton of monitors between $20 and ten times that. Put the sensor in an air stream -- like from a fan or blower -- so it gets the average for the greenhouse, not a single point. I didn't buy one this year because I wanted a monitor that also monitored CO (carbon monoxide) levels without an alarm. I used a kerosene lantern to generate CO2. It worked well for my purposes, but it also generates a little bit of CO which can be harmful to the plants, or to me when I open the greenhouse during the day after the lantern has been burning for several hours.
In the Spring , Fall , and Winter use a small propane heater to elevate your CO2 Levels. Large amounts of CO2 , low cost , and heat - all in one! Regards.
10:40 Those cheap pH meters do not work. It's been tested: it's completely off and useless. Have a real one or don't. A real pH meter need to be calibrated with calibration pH solution.
Instead of lying the insulation flat of the floor, place the insulation underground, either vertically or flared outward from the structure. It would eliminated the largest heat sink in the greenhouse, provide a large thermal mass, use less insulation per sqaure foot, and allow for planting directly in ground. Its called a Swedish Skirt.
Thank you for what you do and especially making it inexpensive and you are in CANADA. I am trying to remember to like and as I go through your library the more I watch for more I learn. I am in Nova Scotia not nearly as far North as you are; our climate is affected by the ocean and prevailing North West wind that never seems to stop blowing, The ocean is only 50 miles away no matter where you live in NS. We have a small home made green house I wish I had looked at this video before I built. Fortunately it is facing South.
Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding was that supplemental co2 is unneeded during cooler weather since heightened co2 can only be utilized when the plants aspirate sufficiently which only happens when there is both sufficient sunlight and higher temperatures.
So most of this appears to be geared towards Northern needs, which is probably what you're specializing in. I found it a bit difficult at first as we want to use greenhouses in the south to keep the heat DOWN. . . . plus keep the insects out, because they are YEAR round. I don't suppose you have a video that targets the opposite? (south)
