this video right here is why I value your channel and videos. What would be YEARS of experience, know-how, and money saving...kindly offered to the community for the benefit of all. Many karma points to you Mr. Sorrells.
*This is exactly what I needed for trimming the edge of oak boards **MyBest.Tools** I also used the disk to round edges while building an oak - walnut cabinet.*
I have found my favorite belts are zirconia for one big reason. They don't heat up the steel as fast. AO belts cut fine but you get 3 passes then into the water the knife goes. I have also found that for higher grits like 320 and 400 silicon carbide work nice cause they leave a very consistent finish but the belts don't last anytime at all. For the big blades i break out the ceramic. One last thing i'd like to add is change belt as soon as you notice they cut slow. I mess up grind lines mostly cause i'm using a crap belt and pushing hard to get it to cut. Thanks Walter for all the great videos. I can't tell you how many times I have used your channel as a valuable resource when i first got started and still pick up little stuff from you all the time.
My Vevor 2x82 (will be modified 2x72) arrives next week, this video was pivotal in my choice of belts bought ahead of time. I am not a knife-maker, I have a really nicely outfitted CNC machine shop and electronics lab and want to upgrade my old 4x36 elcheapo😂
WalterYou never cease to amaze me!!! I've been a machinist since the 60's working with abrasives and I still learned some things from this video. Thanks for helping.Dave S.Pappy Dave's KnivesBerwick, Pa.
Bought combat abrasives belt kit, got a few belts of a lot of different grits, now I have a wall that looks like Walters. Well except mine are still brand new!
I buy the amount of belts I need when I make a knife. Just a few belts at a time. With that said, Hand sanding is your best friend and ultimately, the thorn in your side and soon demise. I buy a biggest aluminum oxide belts at harbor freight I can find and use them for hand sanding
3m makes a ceramic 220 grit belt. as long as I use it as a mid step between 120 blaze and 45X gator belt it last a long time. over 25 blades and most of my knives are 8 inch kitchen knives. trugrit is a good place to look at the various types of belts. also with the gator trizac belts, they don't like water so you should wipe your blade off after dunking it in water.
I’ve watched a few of your newbie videos tonight and found some gems. That’s what learning is all about! Thank you. I noticed in this video you mentioned Gator structured abrasives. I’ve usd them but for my own methods found Norax last longer. I’m certain this is because of my own methods but thought I’d mention them as an alternative. You’re a great resource for new makers with an openness that is very comfortable. Well done sir.
This was a great intro into belts. I've been making for 35 years and didn't know about structured abrasives. As you know, flat sanding on a new 220 belt for a short period works OK. But a worn 220 or a 400 belt and we get chatter on the surface that then has to be hand sanded. I'll give this belt a try and see if I can save a little time. Thanks.
Man, I wish you made this video a couple years ago when I got my belt grinder, it would've save me hours of research. But this has a lot of information all in one place very helpful for my next batch purchase. Thank you Walter.
Perfect Timing Walter!!! I have just decided to buy an Oregon Blade Maker and was now looking into what belts to buy with it. YOU ROCK! ANd i think im first :)
OBM grinders are prefect for just about everything but always keep an eye out for better grinders (I own a Oregon Grinder,but I use my friends KMG and Bader when I'm at their shops). Just make sure you get it lined up with the motor just right. Also I like the variety of attachments for their grinders.
JimboTV I'm planning on probably getting one, you'll have to let me know how you like it! I have an instagram for knives if that makes it easier for you. @myrtn.knives
Great quick but thorough reference. I already placed an order through Combat, but it seems they don't carry all of the belt styles you discussed. I was half through building a 2X72 belt grinder, when I came across a 2X60 Burr King for less than the cost of a motor for my build. A huge THANKS for taking the time to make this review/recommendation video
If you forge take the black oxide off with an angle grinder before you start with belts. That hard oxide eats belts. Some mass production makers use angle grinders for most of their heavy stock reduction. Some of us old farts like to draw file blades but it it is time consuming and you can't draw file after it is hardened.
I'm totally buying some ceramic belts for myself this Christmas. I really need some durable low grit belts, the aluminum oxide ones just don't last nearly long enough. Thanks for the video!
I really love the Norton Norax belts, but they like to leave this black gunk all over the wheels of my grinder, also the lower grits like to snap really easily for some reason. So I have been experimenting with others, at least my hogging grits. I got some Cubitron and Cubitron II recently. I prefer the cubitron II over the cubitron. I have abused those belts, and they seem to cut well and not heat up as fast, but my Norax leave a nicer finish on the steel. I also bought some some ceramic belts in 36 and 120 from Combat, as well as a few from Preferred. I can't wait to try those out tomorrow. Hopefully I will find something that looks as nice as my Norax, last as long as those Cubitrons, and don't leave any gunk on my grinder...or become an adrenaline fueled grinding session.
I think this is the video everyone was waiting for. Lol. I am one of them. I only have a belt grinder that's so cheap that about 2 or 3 of your belts is worth more than my grinder. Haha. Now the next video should be what kind of belt grinder do you recommend?
If you have the tools, it is a good project to build one. You can save a ton of money if you have some of the parts already laying around, or the machines needed to build one. I wouldn't describe it as easy, but it's not hard unless you do what I did an try to design it to use multiple belt sizes (2x72 and 3x79) as well as using a solid steel 3.5" roller running at 4000 RPM. Trying to keep the drive roller below 3000 rpm (preferably less) will save you a lot of headache, since being 10 thou off on a roller running at 4000 rpm creates some serious vibration. If all you want it for is knife making, it's not too difficult.
Wow, i learnt loads watching this! One thing i was wondering about is i see people using a block of some sort to remove belt crud - what is this, how does it work, how effective is it & where can i get one? Thanks a lot for uploading these vid Walter: )
Crepe rubber belt cleaners can be picked up at Harbor Freight, Grizzly, Rockler, probably Home Depot and Sears, as well as most decent hardware stores. I use them mostly for cleaning off wood, plastic, micarta...usually softer stuff gets loaded up in the grit. As the belt runs, you just push it into the belt as if you were grinding the rubber...which you are!
Hey Walter. could you make a video on sharpening and polishing? I'm specifically wondering about ways to sharpen knives without a grinder, belts, or stones. If there is another way that is. Thanks!
What about using a cleaner? in highschool 25 years ago, we used to use a huge gum eraser to clear the belts of gunk. it really extended the life of the abrasives.
Nyxll those are better when you're doing scales or other softer material, I don't think it'd help with steel. I though use wax and it keeps the belt a little cooler until my blade burns through it.
I have tried a few Trizact belts and they give a beautiful finish but heat the material faster than an oxy torch. They also smell awfull in use (like burning epoxy) which can not be good for you.
I wonder if anyone might be able to tell me what is the approximate shelf life of these belts.i came across a good deal and hoping to buy hundreds if these but dont want to buy if they dont have a shelf life
I am just beginning & have a 4 x 36" Belt/disc grinder, any issue using one in that size range over the 2" {more expensive} models, as a Beginner? Is it hard to find proper type belts for this size for knife making? Thnx
Bivey the platten is totally wrong, and they are very under powered. typically have a 1/4-1/3hp motor. my 2x72 has a 1.5, and my next one will have a 3. I've got a 4x36 in the machine shop. lives on the welding table and gets used for deburring. They are of limited to no use for heavy work or knife grinding though. about all its good for in a knife shop is flattening handle scales
Walter I have a couple of questions, understanding that you've been doing this for a while here's the first question, how often have you had to replace or change actual wheels on the grinders you use? And the second is kind of out in left field, most of the grinders I see all come equipped with aluminum wheels, is there a reason that aluminum is chosen over lets say cast iron, or steel? I mean the only thing I can think of is the weight factor, and aluminum would obviously be lighter than steel or cast iron, but wouldn't the steel or cast iron last longer or be more durable than the aluminum. Any whoo, that's my two bits. Thanks a bunch, Clarhett Coalfield.
I'm no expert on belt grinders, however as someone currently in the process of building one, I can see some things that would be problematic with steel. For one, it's very heavy, and that presents a few issues. For one, balancing becomes even more critical. Second, it's much harder to machine. Third, it's a lot more rotating mass, which makes it harder to start and increases the time it takes to spin down. I don't have a ton of experience with knife grinders, but of all the worn-out 1" grinders I've seen, the aluminum on the wheels is still doing okay. Sure you might have some wear, but it probably would have minimal impact on performance. You can be pretty sure the bearings will go out long before the aluminum, perhaps several times.
I don't have a fancy heat treating oven, and since I watched your videos I discovered that hardening 440C is a bit more complicated than I thought it would be. I have heard that you can send your knife to a professional heat treating company. I was wondering if you knew of the best places to use and which ones were the least expensive. Thanks.
Hello Walter, Are the Norton Norax useful in knife making (like X45's)? I believe they're more for surface finishing. Are they comparable to the structured abrasives in this video? Thanks.
Do you recommend a makeshift grinder for those who don't want to start a knife making shop, for homemade projects rather than a continuous job. Or is it just a safer bet to stay with angle grinders or hand files ?
Nart Wumar makeshift grinders can rock. Also harborfreight had a 1x42 or something like that that will work well till you get a big boy. Also seen people use belt sanders in a vise upside down and make gorgeous knives.
Oh right I forgot about the use of manual belt sanders. But that reminds me of another question. Are any aluminium oxide belts capable of grinding steel or are there ones specific for metal work ? And thanks.
Jesse Giese the harbor freight one is a 1x30 and it works alright. Don't get the version that has an integrated disc sander - the thing is already starved for power. They claim 1/3 hp but it's more like a fifth. Craftsman makes a 2x30 that is a decent step up and can be had for under 130.
Al oxide works just fine on steel. I used a 3x24 floor sander held upside down in a vise until the motor burned out on me and it worked just fine, I've made some pretty nice knives that way. Right now I'm using 4" and 7" angle grinders and files, until I finish building my own 2x72. Just use what you have until you can get something better!
Hey, any tips on a cheap belt grinder? I have one on 340v, but I feel like it just doesn't cut it. It's 686 x 50mm. Every one says that the 600 x 2000mm is the best option but I can only find really expensive ones where I live :/
50 x 2000 is the standard :) If You have some necessary skills it's allways cheaper to build one Yourself. I personaly have two bought grinders and now I'm thinking about building one on my own :)
Walter: "You can't use only ceramics because they only come in rough grits" Me: "I don't make my weapons to look pretty and sell, I make them to kill. Ceramic, here I come!"
