6.5L turbo diesel performance. What is worth doing? I decided to throw together a short video to help explain what’s worth it. What’s not. Why do we do upgrades? I skipped over head studs and stock turbos. But you’ll see why later on.
Its an IDI, non intercooled and comes factory with an insufficient charger/lift pump out the gate........why people argue the intercooler is beyond me. Your leaving power and efficiency on the table without it. Well done!
And like my 97 C 3500 there is no smog equipment on it no DEF fluid to put in it makes it even better engines last a lot longer than these new trucks they’re less expensive to work on the parts are less expensive especially fuel injectors yeah when I lived in California some idiot tried to steal it used ether on it because it was hard to start because the optic sensor was giving me fits they blew the head gasket out of it with ether I change the engines to the P 400 nice engine but still it has no smog equipment that makes it even better and the fact that the people tried to steal the truck didn’t get very far about 50 feet because it wouldn’t run or stay running because the injector pump was messed up not runs good real good
Forever thankful for all the information and experience you’ve shared with the 6.2/6.5 community, a bit sad to hear that you are now going another direction but totally understandable. Your information have helped me a lot with my ongoing project and saved me a bunch of $. Thank you and I will be looking forward for your future projects!
Where are you posting on those 54's? I like those trucks. A bit more partial to the early grills in that line but definetly a future build! Thanks for the info and cash savings!
Thanks again for all your assistance i got I'm working on that i have had for 20 years just wanted to make it better for sentimental reasons but like you i love the truck but have realized that it is almost not worth fixing ( it blew up about 3 years ago) and I determined to make it better 😀 👍
It’s hard when we love the truck so much. Just accepting these for what they are. Tossing on some basic upgrades and enjoying them is by far the best thing we can do!!
Just found your page. I started out in a GM dealership in 94 turning wrenches. I cut my teeth on the 6.5. I love the C/K body style and I do like the 6.5 as well. Its not a bad engine but does need a little help to make it better. Good video
Great advice and yes I agree with you 100%. I have items listed except for the hx35, fluid damper and billet pulley. Biggest improvements are the 4” exh, intercooler with 3” intake and piping, better lift pump and decent Bosch injectors. Hx 35 and fluid damper are on the wish list for now.
I don’t really push anyone ever getting a billet pulley. Having the fluid damper and HX swap are more important than an IC from what I’ve noticed. I always do the lift pump. Exhaust. Upper intake. Turbo. Fluid damper. Then sort out a tune or IC. All depends on the user too.
Great video. The one thing I will say is building a box/shield to minimize that hot air draw from the engine is a good idea. Obviously while you are driving it’s not going to make much of a difference but at a stop/low speed it can be dramatic. A few years back we did some testing on a 3.0 eco diesel and a 6.7 power stroke using open, closed, and partial intake boxes. When in traffic/stopped/staging IATs would climb to 165F! This was 90F over the out side temperature and didn’t take long to reach. With a full box the temperature would stay 15-25F over the out side temperature. Considering every 15F is worth about 1% power that’s considerable especially when starting off from a stop light with a big load or 1/8 mile where the first 60 really counts. Also it takes a few seconds for those IATs to start coming down even at WOT. This testing was of course done pre turbo/intercooler at the actual intake.
A box will always benefit. Just never had the time to make one and at this point caspers been retired to farm truck life. Hopefully someone picks up the torch and does more with the 6.5s than I have.
I like that you've changed you mind about CKO turbos! 😁 I posted mine with a CKO hx35w on Facebook for about 2-3 years ago and I did get the feeling you thought i was an idiot for using that 😂 guess you where more in to "that company" at that time. I enjoy your videos, keep em going!🤘 //Tobias from Sweden
Some snappy advice in your video. Can't beat the body style on those 93-00 Chevys, hope too many people don't poo poo on it ha ha. One crucial upgrade you may have missed is the fuel pump external PMD cooler/heat-sink setup. I can say that as they have left many stranded including myself. Cheers
LMAO !!! As soon as you pulled the hood release lever, I was waiting to hear if the telltale OBS hood hinge springs were gonna creak and moan. Needless to say, I’m convinced it’s not a showroom model, and I’m all ears my friend.
The truck was built out of a junk yard November 2012. It’s been everything from my daily driver to a toy. Farm truck. Experiments all conducted on it. It’s been one heck of a truck.
I don't have a diesel truck, I've heard both bad and good about them. I own a Chevy Silverado Z71 xcab with a 5.7 350,and it's great . I've been watching RU-vid videos about 6.2 and 6.5 diesels and I've heard that they're better on fuel than there gasoline counterparts. That better fuel economy got my interest. My truck gets about 13 or 14 mpg. I've heard that the diesels can get 20 plus mpg. I only put a 3" exhaust on my truck so that it can breathe better. It's all stock otherwise. I like to keep my vehicles stock. I'm looking for a good used 6.2 or 6.5 diesel truck and I thank you for your advice and saying that stock is great. Thank you and take care. 👍
The maintenance and upkeep doesn’t pay for itself on these. I’ve had a few half ton 4wd models and even highway cruising I got 16-17mpg on good days until winter when it would drop to 15 flat. Keep your 5.7 and enjoy it for years to come.
We love the 6.5 . No it is not a performance motor , what it is dependable if you keep it reasonable . Go 4 inch exhaust for sure , increase the lift pump or change it every year ( i do ) , the turbo is inefficient at past 15 pounds but it works quick . Change intake for something that breathes like on here . Change the rad for something decent or just clean the one you have often . Change the oil on the regular . we get 21 mpg hauling 3000 lbs in the bed or empty . We have towed up to 14000 lbs in dump trailer , Not the truck for that .
So what would you say about the S&B cold air intake? Worth it? Or is it a just for looks type of thing? It does look nice, they show some sort of "data" on their site about it but I was curious if its worth it? Closed off from the engine and uses the stock fender intake that comes up from the turn signal. I have not seen anybody really talk good or bad about it. What is your opinion towards it?
The S&B actually flows less than a stock K47 or the big 4” that I run. Removing the 90 degree bends is what reduces the IATs pre turbo and allows for more open flow.
I think another way to cool down a 6.5 is to get an oil cooler. Dont know if they come with an oil cooler from the factory but if not thats also a way to cool the engine oil and so overall the engine.
Thanks for the info on this stuff. I decided when i got my truck i'm just gonna do a fass on mine just because I want to do 1/2 feed lines mainly just to eliminate the old stock stuff that's pushing 27 years on my 94 I'm not expecting it to run with a cummins. I got a 08 6.4 tuned for a expensive toy and i got a 7.3 with a 6 speed for the work truck role so the old 6.5 gets to do light work once i get it up to speed.
1/2” feed lines are totally not necessary on a 6.5. New 3/8s lines are more than enough. For a Fass you’ll need a 90-100gph Dmax booster pump is plenty.
Change the oil regularly. Get a lift pump relay harness and updated lift pump from Leroy diesel or Quadstar. If it’s a 94-2000 get an optimized stock tune from Quadstar and use it for a long time. They are great farm trucks.
My 6.5 needs new turbo was thinking about adding inner cooler like the big equipment has trying to figure out if I need a bigger turbo to make it work. Thanks for input
A larger turbo is suggested if you work the truck often or tow frequently. The intercooler will work on a stock turbo. But you won’t see nearly the efficiency gain.
@@jamesmader5829 I had it there but my truck does not have AC. I would suggest looking into and air to water cooler. Better packaging to fit it all in.
@@gingersnapcustoms thought about it But it is the favorite farm truck Doesn’t need one more maintenance item Air to air makes some sense Already put LP on it who needs more
@@jamesmader5829 I would just do an HX35 swap. Upper intake. Lift pump. 4” Exhaust and 4” air intake. That’s all I’ve run on the farm trucks and have had no issues or shortage of power.
u cant say the dual thermostat isnt an upgrade, idk what kinda trailers ur draggin but i also honestly dont usually get hot either, but their use to b a time when i had to sit n let n let it cool i dont kno if its necessary with the pump n fan upgrade but honestly with the later model high flow pump i wouldnt mind a little less restriction jus for the hell of it im goin to record with the flir, when i get every thing back together, and see where the heat builds up n where the hot spots really get in the block to put that rumor to rest, ill post a link when i put it up
It isn’t an upgrade. Period. You see more benefits from the pump and fan than the thermostat housing. Hell a new radiator is more worth it. I figured dragging trailers loaded between 8000-12,000lbs was a pretty good personal experience and enough to base this from. Different strokes for different folks. But I wouldn’t waste my time changing a housing that isn’t the problem.
Hey bud, I'm looking at a 1997 K2500 6.5 TD w 103k for $8k right now, and I need some advice. I don't need crazy towing power, I have big block gas solutions for that, I'm looking more for a tool hauler for landscaping with maximum fuel economy, prob won't ever exceed 7k pounds towing, occasionally hauling topsoil or mulch in the bed. Any upgrades you'd recommend? The current owner said he considered a 4 inch exhaust and a tune that would allegedly add 80hp and 160fp of torque. Does that sound realistic to you, and do you think those would be smart upgrades for my use? I live in Michigan, and Michigan turnarounds in traffic make 0-60 times fairly important. Any help is SUPER appreciated bud, love the videos.
I got a 95 c3500hd with a 454 and 4l80 I’m about to be getting a good 6.5 parts truck with a mechanical 6.5 and nv4500 to swap into it I’m looking to make 3-400hp ideally
400 horse is tough. You’ll need an S364 turbo and injection pump from Verlin Martin. Injectors from him. Get a set of new pro max heads. ARP head studs. You’ll want to balance the bottom end with stock pistons. Leroy diesel timing gear set. Fass lift pump from Quadstar tuning and their upper intake manifold. It’s possible but it costs a few bucks to get there.
im goin to record block temps with the flir when i get every thing back together, and see where the heat builds up n where the hot spots really grow in the block to put that rumor to rest, ill post a link when i put it up if its allowed, i doubt it for some reason (reposted that one part jus as a reminder)
I don’t mind you posting the link. I’ve already been here done all of this and didn’t see a massive difference that was so shocking to feel the need to change them. Happy testing!
@@gingersnapcustoms o no shit i havent come across that one that sounds like it might save me some work :p does anybody have any idea of a name or url? much appreciated
I've got the opportunity to get a 95 6.5 c3500 dually 2 wheel drive for a great price. 226k miles on it, has rebuild heads for some reason, rust free body and a service bed on it. I'd likely pull the service bed off and swap to a flatbed to haul construction materials. I mod everything I own.. should I do it, or run?
If you are doing a lot of heavy hauling or keeping it loaded down constantly I would look for a 454 big block truck. If you are willing to do a few upgrades and just be aware these are very needy engines. They it’ll work out fine. Hauled hay with my 6.5 yesterday and picked up bales.
In this video I had an air to air intercooler setup for testing installed. If you watch my newer “when to tune a 6.5” video you’ll see it without the intercooler and just the standard turbo to plenum piping. Hope that helps.
i just installed some cargo maxx heavy duty coil springs and the front end is now lifted 1-2inches and now my stock 245/75/16 tires look way to skinny what do you recommend going with 285 or 265 ?
@@gingersnapcustoms ok sounds good what do you think about goodyear duratracs? I'm looking for a good all terrain also was looking into the nitto ridge grapplers
They are not meant to be changed without the pump being recalibrated. So you’ll have to call an injection pump shop. If it needs an optic sensor and o ring then the pump needs rebuilt.
@@andrewbuzzell3542 I run whatever XDP or the local diesel place sells. Or junk yard pumps anymore. They are all reman anyways. Even “brand new” use a core. So I just set the timing right. Keep fuel additive in them and drive them.
I enjoyed your video I have a 6.2 in an 86 K5 Blazer I love to get exhaust manifolds a 6.5 front drive assembly for a serpentine belt opposed to having three belts that way I can keep air conditioning your videos very informative do you know if your intercooler increases your performance and by how much and if I keep my 6-2 and update it is it worth it or should I get a 65 instead let me know please and thank you
Made my own with a 11” wide marine tray. Amazon, summit, jegs, speedway all sell the tray. The hardware is form the local place in town. Just two 5/16 bolts for the top two and 5/16 self tappers for the bottom.
I have a 6.5 in my tow truck and this will be my last 6.5 I'm switching back to a 454 I'd rather have to spend more on fuel and have a super reliable engine then having a 6.5 diesel
I can completely respect that. My tow rig is an 8.1L big block. Farm truck is a 6.5 and a 7.3. That said you can’t beat a healthy big block! We had a 454 dually for years and it was the best farm truck we’ve ever had.
@@gingersnapcustoms the thing I like about 6.5s is the fuel mileage like you said in the video gm neverbuilt this engine for people to make a hotrod outta them. My 6.5 has served me well but the only benefit it has over a big block is fuel mileage. great videos man
@@chasauto2932 they are good fuel savers and I can say they did that well. Give them a little more go go power takes that away pretty quick leaving you with big block fuel economy and small block horse power. That said. There’s always a balance!
I am in NY, where is M&L, Bronx ? I have 2 6.5 suburban, 94 & 98. My 94 has a Banks 3½" exhaust and I like it much better then Dimond Eye but banks stopped making them years ago. The 94 I owned since 96 and the 98 I recently picked up with 92k on it. I used a 92/93 lift pump on the 94 no issues but getting a Walbro pump for the 98. I do the manual waste gate on both and thats it and they run.. The guys on the forums are so full of ...., they must have money to blow.
He’s in Jersey and just got out of tuning unfortunately. I’ll be honest. The budget work truck swap I did last year ran amazing for towing. PTwiring HX35 kit. Carter lift pump upgrade. 4” diamond eye. And it was a great farm truck. There’s really no reason anymore to go crazy on these because there isn’t enough hard part support -rods. Pistons. Mains-. Glad yours are all still kicking and do so well!
Yeah, no reason to go crazy with these, it's throwing money down the toilet. Even a manual wastegate is fine on the gm8 turbo. My 94 has 4.10's and the 98 3.42 gears and that alone makes the 2 trucks night and day. I like these but they are temperamental, my 1st gen Cummins is a real runner almost stock and extremely reliable. I personally feel Qstar and SS are rip-offs. Thanks for replying.
@@Terk131 they make good farm trucks. Mines done me well but they can be fussy. SS is for sure a rip off. The tuning Quadstar did on my 99 made the truck night and day compared to the stock ECM. That’s the only reason I suggest them. Hopefully yours will continue to be great work trucks for years to come.
I'm trying to find a radiator for a 1992 6.5 there hard to come by any suggestions? mine is starting to leak a bit and its time for a new rad i can swap over the tanks and refurbish it
@@diyautomotive4750 takes an hour or so. PB blaster on cooler line fittings for 4-5 days before. 1. Drain radiator 2. Remove upper fan shroud and hold downs 3. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses 4. Remove transmission cooler lines from passenger radiator tank 5. Remove over flow lines and make sure all hoses are disconnected 6. Lift straight up evenly to remove radiator from truck 7. Inspect new radiator and apply all needed fittings from old rad to new. Install using steps 6 through 1
Thanks bro i also was wondering if you know why my lift pump keeps running after installing new ops on my 1992 I’m going to put a new lift pump relay see if that helps
@@gingersnapcustoms thank you for the quick reply! I’ve been looking on your fb page for about 30 minutes and can’t seem to find the post about the hx35. Is it under the Casper album?
@@DaMAV3R1CK it’s in the pinned post. I have an album for upgrades as well where it should have a few links. If not. I’ll add that to my “to make” list tonight and tomorrow.
@@korbinstudnicki3510 I don’t have one handy and I’m traveling for work today. Google Zombiesolutions or look at the pinned post on the gingersnapcustoms Facebook page. Thanks
@@korbinstudnicki3510 I don’t have one handy and I’m traveling for work today. Google Zombiesolutions or look at the pinned post on the gingersnapcustoms Facebook page. Thanks
@@gingersnapcustoms ok thanks I find it. I need to buy the turbo, the down pipe adapter and oil drain kit and oil drain adapter for it to work correct? Do I need to buy anything else you have listed on there for it?
@@christopherwilson7698 power to weight calculator at 6000lbs down a drag strip had it labeled around 327hp/600tq. I’ve never had it on a dyno but others with similar setups have been in that ball park. Not much to write home around. But it’s way better than the 167/285 it made stock.
@@gingersnapcustoms honestly I think that’s pretty damn impressive, hope I didn’t offend you with my poor attempt at humor really enjoy your guys videos keep up the great work
@@gingersnapcustoms I've never had a "hit" pump. All mine have gone out in about 20,000 miles. We even relocated the PMD, boosted the lift pump, directed more cooling air over the pump (it's in a van chassey) and only used brand-name diesel. I'm just gonna replace the IP once a year from now on.
@@sunnybeech74 if they are going out that often you’ve got contaminants in the fuel tank or the sock on the sender is slowly starving them until they die. The lowest life I’ve had was 37,000 miles and that was due to a cheap rebuild. A DTech pump sits in its place and I’m still not having issues almost 30k later.
Great video! Very informative and a lot of good advice. Theese are great worktrucks and runs forever if you take care of them, and they sounds awesome :) Here in Sweden the 6,5s are still very popular. We have more diesel trucks than petrol ones from that generation. A really nice one can cost about $15-20000 (!).