I used this video to sync my own carbs after cleaning all the gunk out of the GSF600 carburetor - it worked like a charm and gives a better overview than the manual! The wobbler at 6:55 can often be fixed by closing the screwed valve at the bottom of the gauge slightly. In order to save your future carburetors: I do not know if the USA requires the use of bio-ethanol in their fuel like Europe does, but I found that using fuel without any (bio-)ethanol limits clogging and deterioration of rubbers. In the case of the Netherlands, I decided to just use a premium gasoline, such as Shell V-power.
I learned about adjusting the wobbler after doing this sync on another bike. How blind was I not to attempt adjusting the valve?! Gah. This is one of those videos I should probably reshoot. I should have also blipped the throttle in between sync screw changes to make sure it settled in the same spot. But, this method should get it pretty darn close still. Unfortunately in my city, you legally can't even sell gasoline without 10% ethanol in it. I need to go a few counties over to get it--and then it's usually just premium. That's great to hear that you got your carb cleaned, and you've got the bike up and running!
I definitely should have blipped the throttle a few times--not sure why I didn't. Good recommendation. It looks like what I would need to flatten out the bounciness of the gauge is a "snubber", would that be the type of valve you're talking about?
@@MarcusfotosDe That's great to hear! Hopefully your patience level is better than mine, haha. This bike has really taught me to work on the simple things first, make sure they're correct, then move on to more difficult tasks.
Absolutely, they're fun to make, and I usually learn quite a bit from thinking it out and getting corrected by people seeing me screwing something up :-P . Glad to hear you're up and running!
Thank you so much bro you are the only one to explain the sequence on how to actually use this synchronisation carburettor kit. I I have learned a lot. Thanks again
Sure thing Lee. I wish I'd have bounced the throttle a bit more to show variances in vacuum at various RPM and the different rates at which the cylinders settle, but hopefully still useful. Cheers.
Best sync tutorial I found so far. Getting ready to do same thing today but on Bandit 1200. Your video gave me an idea to record my struggles and publish them also. Cheers
Thanks Mariusz. I still missed a few things in this video, so make sure you also: ***EDIT--There are (3) things I would change on this video. 1. The manual states engine RPM should be set to 1,750
A most excellent video. Subscribed Matt. Gotta get these gages. Off to e-bay I go. (for my red 600 bandit bike ~ like this one ~ actually exactly like this one). Thank you so much for this!
Not a problem Steven. Do note that these ebay vacuum gauges can be a bit of a gamble, and I would recommend trying to calibrate them off of a single split vacuum source before using them just to make sure they're all reading similarly.
Good luck! One thing I forgot to do on this video was to raise the throttle a little bit ~1-2k rpm for a second or two, and then back off and see that all the carburetors settle out at the same vacuum pull.
:) It went ok, much better now. It now starts and idles great. But I still have to sort out other issues. It runs perfectly up to about 4000rpm - after that, specially if I give it full throttle it takes an eternity to accelerate. I suspect it is running too rich on the mainjet. Will try to ride it without the air filter and see how it behaves. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Matt Tries to Do Things Thanks for the sugestion. Went for a ride today. The too rich scenario is confirmed. I'll have to go through the carburetors all over again. I finally got hands on a service manual so this time i'll go by the book. No regrets, just learning :)
Very small turns, get one pair lined up, blip throttle, if the needles go slightly out of whack when RPM's come back down and dont look quite in line anymore, readjust with very small turn again, if after blipping throttle they return and stay in line, move on to next pair. rinse and repeat. I usually do 2 or 3 blips even if they stay in line, just to reassure myself. Straightforward to do, but can be fiddly and repetitive. First time i ever done it i just could not get them to sync up, one needle would go too far clockwise and vice versa; and was told it was because I was doing quarter turns, when you should really be doing 1/8 of a turn at most. Very very small turns. I did my friends for him because the genius that he is, when taking his carb apart, he decided to unscrew one of the adjuster screws all the way out, to the point where the spring even fell out haha. Talk about a bike sucking too much air and running wayyyy to lean!
Funny I'm reading this now. I just literally uploaded a video I shot last weekend comparing these gauges to a Carbtune I recently purchased. I assumed this notification was that the video failed to upload. Your advice about blipping the throttle is something I definitely should have been doing in this video--but I wasn't. Ignorance, I suppose. Fiddly and repetitive is right. Luckily they're super easy access on this inline 4. Be easy on your friend. Maybe he's like me in that his favorite way to learn is by doing the wrong thing and being corrected by other people? Like me!
If only RU-vid made it easy for me to go back and edit the video to mention that people should be blipping the throttle in between readings! But thanks Ewan. Cheers.
Scroll down about halfway through this article. The author has them circled A, B, C. bikerdiy.com/projects/suzuki/gsf-bandit-projects/bornagainbikers-gsf600n-bandit-project/engine-bornagainbikers-gsf600n-bandit/its-all-about-the-balance/
@@matttriestodothings thanks. Wow my comment is from 4 months ago and im still struggling with this lmao.. So the shitty part is that i got the exact sync tool as you have and the pointers were all in red, which made me get sidetracked because it says valve timing bla bla and i actually opened the head of the engine and set the valves lmao. Guess that was not needed. Anyho, many attempts syncing the carb and i couldnt do it so some 2 weeks ago i bought a whole carb revise set even though i thoughrougly cleaned my carbs. The set is installed and i used some ball bearings to get a pretty good pre-sync and to my surprise it really helped. Just now that the first meter broke or maybe never even worked and is stuck in the low range and cant even calibrate it back to 0. After close inspection i saw some tears in the intake boots so thats what im going to waste my money on next. Btw quick question how do I reduce the idle, do i turn it the right / left ? Thanks man :)
@@MrGilly Idle set screw I'm 99% certain (out of town right now so can't check) is right-handed normal thread, so clockwise is higher idle, and counter-clockwise is lower idle. I'm having trouble picturing what might be the issue with your vacuum gauges. Are you saying that they're not moving at all based on vacuum? Or that the resting spot is not at zero? If you've gone through and rebuilt the carburetors and checked the valves... while I'd definitely consider replacing the intake boots... I would think the problem might be in the sync setup itself.
@@matttriestodothings I'm going to seal the intake boots today using special gasket maker. For the sync tool they are moving but the first meter has a big offset and I cannot calibrate it back to 0, so it's difficult to read. Thanks for replying i really want to get this bike back on the road lmao
I think I might've missed it. What was causing the problem that it had where when given gas it would stall? I have the same bike that I bought used and it had the same problem a few years back and I parked it and left it there (wouldn't rev past 4000RPM and it would stall). I bought it used and every winter (not very cold where I live) it would gice me grief, not starting, stalling. I didn't have much time to ride it and when I went to take it for a ride I would end up frustrated with the damn thing (and most ot the time without having been able ti even ride it). During the summer it rode well, it simply didn't like winter. 😅 Anyway, now I'm trying to bring it back to life and I would appreciate if you could give me some tips on what to look for and what the problem was with yours. I feel exactly like you, I love the damn thing and just hearing the sound of you taking it for a spin has made me want to fix mine ASAP and take it for a spin! 😅
I don't have an exact specific thing, but it came down to having a clean air filter and running near stock A/F mix screws on stock jetting. I made certain the carburetor was squeeky clean and made sure it had clean fuel. I played with it for years though before I got it right. The bandit was unique in that I never had to fight a bike so much to get to run right. And yes, they're cold-blooded. Most carbureted bikes are, but the bandit was next level.
@@matttriestodothings Thanks for the response. I remember in winter it took 4 or 5 minutes to run right and where I live we we don't have cold weather I can't imagine how long it would take with snow on the street. Mine would probably end up not starting at all. Most of the time in winter the battery died before the engine would start and it had a brand new good brand battery... 😅
Nice one but you probably need to to it again. You didnt adjust the damping of the gauges. They are supposed to vibrate. Your 3rd cylinder gauge valve was basically closed (no vibration) and the No1 not damped enough. Just adjust the small white valves all so you have a small vib on all gauges and retest.
Is the Bandit 600 1750? I have since learned from doing another bike that there is a recommended RPM. I also really should have been blipping the throttle inbetween adjustments to see that the air velocity fell back to the same positions. I adjusted the valves this winter so I should probably do another sync at the correct RPM and with the blips. Thanks for the feedback John.
Hey Matt, need some advise... So I did valve adjustment all good, after again back to carburetor synchronization... So I meet problems there according manaul 1750 RPM was no problems with 1&2 and harder with 3&4 and all together... Ended up having 17-18psi in all but then I dropped RPM to 1350 3 and 4 is out total... So made synch at 1500 all good and left like that but now then you ride on 1st gear loose rpm 1500 seems "someone sometimes push bike from behind" motor sound good but sometimes appears that motor gets hard time for milliseconds and then back to normal😁 any advise? Still stick to carburetors or... ?
I synced my carbs today gsf 600 mk1 but found after the revs dropped really slow but when i un synced carb 1 it was fine... all mixture screw are out 2
My only piece of advice at this stage is to make sure you've got a clean air filter, and you may also want to verify that the air filter drain gets dumped. I believe I'm also going to have to fight a bit to get my Bandit running correctly again once winter ends since it seems really finicky with "old" gasoline. I believe I noticed a thread you started on BanditForum as well concerning this issue.
I have a GSF 600 Bandit 2000: Have the following problem. Bike idles no problem, take it for a ride and after 5 mins of riding it looses power and cuts out. will crank but not start. leave for 30-50 mins and the bike will start again. It sounds like a fuel starvation / float sticking issue. I have had the carbs off , good clean and blown with air line, checked float heights. used all stock settings and digital carb balancer. runs good at idle, but cut out problem when riding still occurs. Not sure if this maybe an electrical issue wrt stator/pick-up/CDI , but would appreciate any advice.
I think you're probably on the right path by thinking fuel starvation. I would check to make sure that the vacuum line that runs from one of the carburetors to the vacuum-operated petcock is not damaged in any way. I would also consider pulling the petcock out of the fuel tank and checking if the inlet filter is clogged which could be causing too much restriction. If you're going that far, it would probably also be a good idea to pull the vac-operated petcock apart and inspect the diaphragm to make sure that it doesn't have any tears or dirt built up inside. You can test the operation of the petcock then with the fuel tank off the bike by hooking up a line to the vacuum port and either pulling a vacuum with your mouth or hooking it up to a brake bleeder. If the fuel flows with vacuum applied and stops flowing when vacuum is disconnected, it is operating correctly. Just make sure you're catching all of this into a container. That's where I would start first before troubleshooting electricals. Though I was going to suggest cleaning up the terminals on the coil connections as well. This is something I've also been meaning to do on mine as I've heard it mentioned that corrosion can cause some issues and the symptoms will vary with heat.
I settled on 2. Still playing with it, but 2 turns was what worked best on this stock setup at my elevation with stock exhaust and standard air filter. 1.875 is stock on this bike.
@@aladinoreyes2159 I'm at 617ft above sea level with all stock components besides a hiflofiltro oek air filter replacement. If you find something that feels awesome, let me know! I'm still trying to find the perfect spot.
Sometimes I just want to shoot this thing and put it out of its misery, lol. It's just such a finicky carburetor compared to every other one I've ever touched. I hear so many stories of the same. Once it's dialed in and warm it's fine, but it's just a little whiner a lot of times.
Matt could impose on your brain for a bit? I have a 97 600 I'm having hell getting it running properly. Could you shoot me a message on RU-vid or possibly look me up on Facebook...
Is there a messaging client on RU-vid? I don't have a Facebook, but feel free to shoot me an email at colddevil01@yahoo.com. Put something about "Bandit" in the email header, so I don't miss it.
