Wow, you got a guillows kit to fly really well. It is trimmed very well. I built them when was young. I painted them with several cots of testors paint. They were in no shape to fly.
@scaleflight Hello, it is an honor, that someone of your skills and experience, thinks my airplane is well done, thanks ! I bought Esaki Liteflite from Michael Woodhouse in England, that plus your advice, helped me do a decent job for a rookie. I only wish I had'nt double covered the fuselage. The gear is removable, I saw in a book how to bend the wire and insert it into tubes glued inside the wing, is a bit spindly for safe take offs but she looks nice sitting on it. I'm really enjoyeing this!
I took the liberty of joining a video af my Tiffy's first flight. Things are looking up thanks to the kind advice of John Cooper. I'm working on trimming the Typhoon and building a Spit MK I. There's an Avro Manchester winter project too... Happy flights. Jorge. Brest
How you reach this nice turns ?, are you using ailerons or rudder?, do you have any information about you construccion on RCG or RCU ? congratulations again.
Thanks for you prompt answer. Plase can you let me know how you get this turns?, only with rudder?, a mix of ailerons and rudder? I'm asking you because it was impossible for me to rech this nice turns, my model always stalls during the turns and after the turns of the rudder are finished. Thanks again.
My typhoon took 5g of weight to balance and flies beautifully also, totally stock. What rubber are you using and how many winds? I use the stock motor and 150 winds for a 10 sec flight.
i forgot to ask out of the two witch would you recomend elmers wood glue (its some how lighter in lequid form an its alot harder) or elmers wight glue (heavyer in liquid form and softer when dry)
I'm back, I finished the fuselage and rudder, I carefully sanded a bunch of wood out of the rudder, like you advised. I have collored Esaki tissue comming from England, what do you think ? I need advice on the following : Dope the frame before covering ? Painting canopy frames. Thrust line recommendations. Loctite superglue instead of white glue ? I will fly outside in grassy fields, there's a good one nearby with Nazi bunkers still there, good for a video... Thanks George Brest France
Great flight ! I'm building one now (december 2009) I see you left out the landing gear, I was thinking of that too. Any advice ? Better rubber, better prop? I'd like to paint mine all silver, like the prototype, any paint you recommend ? Thanks ! George. France
There are 3 main adjustments needed. 1. Glue a thin piece of balsa under the thrust bearing so that the prop is tilted down and to the right about 30 degrees. This generally counters prop torque and over climbing. 2. Put a 2.5 cm x 1 cm paper tab on the outer trailing edge of the left wing. Angle it at 45 degrees down. This keeps the left wing from dropping in a turn. 3. Adjust the model so that it can glide (no winding) a wide left turn. This usually needs left rudder and a little up elevator.
***** I thought ailerons were used to impress the left turn. But you are saying that actually the rudder impresses the turn and even an aileron down is required on the left wing?
Hello John, are you guy's experimenting with turbulators ? I'm building a Guillow's Spit, with a maniac approach towards weight savings, I was reading about turbulators.... My Spit will try to resemble one from the "Icefire" XIV Canadian sq. They where white... Cheers. George
Hey George! Turbulators sound like a good idea. I haven't done much with them. I do, however, frequently add an extra spar (under the tissue) near the leading edge of many models. Once, I added a piece of string on the top of the wing - it didn't seem to be big enough to make any difference. Icefire would be a cool and unique paint scheme. I am slowly working on a counter-rotating Seafire 47.
