Guitar Neck Size And Radius - Should You Even Care? 

Having smallish hands/fingers, neck size/profile and fretboard width/radius are my NUMBER ONE concern in considering a guitar. Sound does not matter, if the instrument is a pain to play. Unfortunately, manufacturers don't get it, and don't offer choices.

Neck profile and overall thickness are the most important aspect aspect of a guitar for me. I don't understand why more guitar companies don't offer size options for players.

At the end !!! All my concerns about radiuses have been blewn away. Thank you !!!

Wow! Im thankful Im glad i stumbled to this video. Very informative and very good perspective in guitar choices and playing.

I just went and measured the necks of all six of my electric guitars. They range from vintage guitars from 1968 to my newest from 2023, and they all have vastly different feeling necks. One feels like a baseball bat, and at the other end of the extreme, one feels almost like a child sized guitar. The shocking thing is that when you measure the thickness back to front, and the width side to side at the first fret, most of the necks are almost identical measurements. Two of them are around 2mm thinner from to back than the rest, and one of those two is about 3mm narrower at the first fret than the rest. But the rest are within a mm of each others measurements despite all feeling like incredibly different sizes in my hand. I’d say that that makes an argument that other factors of the shape make the biggest difference. One guitar has rolled edges and a soft V shaped back and it’s the most comfortable guitar in my hand. But the one that feels like a baseball bat in my hand is the same exact thickness and only slightly wider than that comfortable V shaped one. The one that feels like a child sized neck is only a couple of mm narrower and is the same thickness as the “thin U” neck on my Gretsch, but the Gretsch doesn’t feel even close to that tiny in my hands. My 335 style guitar has almost the same width and thickness measurements as my Telecaster, but it is a D compared to the Tele’s C, and it feels like it’s significantly wider and deeper. So I’d say the biggest differences in how a neck feels is determined much more by the shape of the shoulders and whether the edges are rolled or not, than the neck thickness or radius.

First and foremost, your videos are stellar. Great content and very useful. I think scale length has more of an effect on feel and playability , than radius and thickness of a neck. Also, width. I had a Rickenbacker 330/12 that was always a chore to play because it had a very narrow fretboard. I sold it and bought a 660/12 and it was night and day because the 660 has an much wider and thicker neck. My 2 cents. Keep them awesome videos coming.

Thank you for this well thought out video. I see videos on neck thicknesses always turn into a fingerboard radius and neck thickness video. IMO the same amount of importance should not be given to both of these topics. Neck thickness is way more important for playing comfort and hand position. That becomes really important if your just learning or older.

Thanks Paul. I have recently had total left hand jam up on stage playing bass on a higher end Ibanez. Maybe just not playing enough in those 3 weeks I had off. Will def try my Fender Jazz for hand comfort even though it weights a ton

It's funny. I am super picky about the necks on guitars. I have to feel like it was made for me the moment I pick it up, or I won't even play it. My idea is that the neck is really the only contact your skin has with the guitar. And your hand is the way to made the guitar sing. If your hand isn't comfortable, I don't think you will ever be the guitar player you can be. The whole tone argument...well, tone is in the fingers. Hands and fingers are comfortable, you'll be able to wring as much music out of the instrument as you can.

I played a Les Paul most of my life and could never get the hang of bending strings properly. Now I play a Strat and it’s almost effortless for me. The difference is night and day 🤷‍♂️

Cool tone, what were you plugged into?

I am totally into neck specifics. I am always looking for certain things. For example I am in love with compound radius that goes from 10-14 or 12-14, I always prefer I flat radius instead of a more curvy. My Esp is a 12 inch radius and I feel so comfortable with it. Another very important aspect is the wood installed in the fingerboard I always go with rosewood because I love the sounds.The neck finish is very important for me, I totally hate the glossy one I prefer the satin one :)

I'm very used to PRS necks with a 10 inch radius, and i love a nice low action for bending. So when building a neck for a Warmoth partscaster, I went for the 10-16 compound radius so I can have a similar feel with chords, but also can get the action lower without the fret buzz, made it with roasted maple and rosewood so it doesn't need a finish, and honestly it's the best neck I've EVER played. I recommend the Wolfgang neck profile if you like the best of both worlds. For anyone who likes the bare neck feel, roasted maple is a no-brainer, because even though you pay extra for the material, its still cheaper than putting a finish on it.

Great video! Could you also do set up of different guitars? Like neck, action, height, saddle heights etc. Would love to see how you do/prefer it! 🔥🤘

Thanks for sharing your views and doing the side by side comparisons. I respectfully disagree with your opinion on neck profiles tho. When I try out electric guitars, I won't even plug them in if the neck doesn't feel right. I could care less how they sound. For instance, you won't see me sporting a Les Paul despite loving it's sound and look (it's heavy AF too). Multiple factors are involved with neck profiles, including scale length and neck finish. While you can play anything on any guitar (right on about adaptability), the right neck profile will inspire more creative playing. That's happened to me every time I've found the right guitar.

Great video Paul. My 2 favourite feeling guitars are a Fender American Original Tele with a fat neck and an old Suhr Classic S with the Reb Beach neck profile and it is really thin. I cant get on with wide/flat plus the visibility of the side dots is a question I always have when buying something.

What are your thoughts on nut/neck width? I've got a 42mm 'Road Worn' Telecaster Deluxe and I find my daughter's 43mm Tele much nicer to play as I mute strings less and the strings feel noticeably less cluttered... I'm quite a beginner at this so my own skill is the main factor here, but just wondering how much of a thing it is to someone good at guitar like you.

If you're unlucky enough to have arthritis in your hands at all, such as in the base of your thumb which is a common place to get it, or any other part of your hand for that matter, neck thickness makes a big difference. Particularly if you're trying to do Hendrix thumb over thebl top chords etc. I have one cheapo strat copy guitar that I bought on the internet without having the opportunity to try it out beforehand , and I soon realized I wouldn't even be able to play it because of the thickness of the neck. Fortunately it was only 85 bucks but still. That's 85 bucks I could have spent on something else.

I own a blond 1983 62 reissue American strat. When I first purchased it the radius was so curved and bad I couldn't bend notes on the higher frets without it fuzzing out on me, it was very uncomfortable to play. I took the guitar to accent music store and the technician told me I don't know how you can play this guitar. He flatten the radius and used jumbo fret wire and the difference was AMAZING, it played like a dream. He told me that of all the strats he played and worked on, mine was the best strat he ever played and heard. Everyone that has played my guitar has told me the same thing. Radius can make a big difference.

Theoretically the biggest contribution a thick chunky neck is more sustain and resonance to the tone due to more energy from the strings going to the pickups. Thinner necks tends to flex and vibrate more, thus dissipating more of the string energies into the air as heat and less goes into the pickups. However the most important criterion insofar as the profile is concerned to me is how comfortable it Feels in my hand. I prefer a medium thin neck with a more rounded profile and a slightly steeper width taper. Imagine a vintage LP chunky neck that has same thickness as a Strat neck with the narrow nut to the wider heel width of a Ibanez wizard. In effect I like a neck with a compound profile going from a narrow rounder neck at the nut to a flatter wider neck at the heel. For radius, I prefer flatter radius overall, but I DO like a bit more curvature at the nut. So far the compound radii sweet spot for me seems to be 10-14" on Strats and other F-Scaled (25.5") guitars and 12-16" on LPs and other G-Scaled (24.75") guitars. Btw, I have US Men's size Small hands.

Anyone with small hands/fingers knows it's almost impossible to find a high-quality acoustic with a suitably narrow-nut fretboard, an adequate radius, and a playable neck. The manufacturers are ignoring a huge market.

Great vid Paul!

i own a strat elite usa c shape neck 9.5 radius and i really wanna buy 59 custom shop strat but neck is large C and still 9.5 radius but wonder how big diffrence between .

I think the width of the nut and the spacing of the strings is more confusing than the shape of the neck. As always your video is stunning!

Could someone just tell me how much of a difference I would notice going from a 14 to a 12 radius,I can't really find that answer. I've gone to playing Jackson's with a compound radius to a Kramer Pacer which has a 14 the whole way down. Now I've kinda gotten used to it, but it is harder playing certain chords. Well ,I'm interested in another pacer,only this one has a 12 inch radius on it. Now these guitars have Floyd's on them and I'm not even gonna begin to ask about that other than i know a Floyd can either come in a 10 or a 12 depending on weather it has shims under the saddles.

I cut off the pads of my finger tips on my left hand around 11 years old in an accident. It always caused me issues playing. I stopped playing for about a decade, and I came back. People told me before I quit, and when I came back, "you want a thicker neck", then some also suggested 7 strings(which I wanted to play a 7 string mainly anyways when I came back, and I definitely do now), but they all said "thicker necks", not explaining to me what I needed wasn't a thicker neck truly, but a wider neck, with a wider radius. My Strandbergs are amazing with the 20" radius(I was thinking of getting a PRS Mark Halcomb, but I probably won't now, but that also is 20" radius). I also love my Ormsby's, which are 16" radius I believe. I really prefer to have 12" at the minimum(I can do less, even 7.5", but I do not like it, even without my finger pad issue, I just don't like that small of a radius), and I like a 12-16" compound when I can get one. I have a Player's Series Strat I got, I've put less than 10 hours on the thing, and I got it out the back of a Guitar Center, brand new in box. I just don't like the small Radius. I got it as an HSS and it sounds fine, even without a pup swap, I got locking tuners even that I threw on there so far. But now Harley Benton has their ST-moderns out, and I plan on getting one of those. 12-16" compound radius sells me, plus the stainless steel frets, with balled ends! Locking tuners. The Trem might not be as good as the newer fender trem, but it's still great from all I've heard, and if the pups don't impress me enough, I can throw over the Fender ones until I get some aftermarkets to replace it. Radius matters so much to me.

I've got a guitar that's slightly smaller than the average one, the neck is shorter and the body is a little smaller. is that bad or does it not matter?

Fantastic video. I thought my 9-14” compound radius tele neck was the bees knees. Then I stumbled into a Vintera with a 7.25” radius with small vintage frets. I intended to play it for a few days to see how bad it used to be and then pass it on. 😳 It’s so much better. How have I let everyone convince me that this doesn’t work? It’s amazing! Bending works perfectly fine too. I find that I can comfortably play any neck with just a little acclimation but the old school radius and frets feel best.

Thanks for the Clarity

For someone who has small hands and quite chubby fingers, a modern C neck profile is a lifesaver if I can get a neck with .80 on the 1st fret and .85 or .087 on the 12th fret with C shape or Thin U shape it's the perfect profile for my hands

I got a 50s soft V 7.25 radius neck and wired a nice bod up to go with it , and just feels bloody odd and can't get used to it lead wise , the radius thing doesn't really matter to me , it's more that wedge I can't get used to, normal sized hands but feels too big for them lol I'm adamant I'll get used to it as it sounds great

I have arthritis in my hands. I've had to sell an Ibanez and a PRS because the necks were a little too thin and my left hand always hurt after playing them. I was bummed about both because they were great guitars but... you gotta do what you gotta do.

You should play the guitar you like of course. But the point is whether your specific hands feel better in one neck or another. I have a Fender, a Squier and a Gibson and I find more comfortable the Fender neck for my hands. The radius is 9.5 satin maple with medium jumbo nickel frets. I am wonder if I would like compound radius or 7.25 radius since it seems my hands prefer more curved necks. My only concern is about bendings since I like huge bendings.

My 2 cent novel: The less one knows the better. The more one knows, the more complicated this gets and the better you play, the more you expect from your instrument. Overall technique that’s possible on any guitar depends on the level of player who is able or not to get used to anything and the size of their hands. But what really matters is the radius and the neck shape, because a 7.25” neck can be a pita to properly bend - especially on XV. fret on the b and e strings. If you want a b3 or even a 3 that can be an issue for a successful setup with a comfortable string action. Is it possible? Absolutely. Can it be a pita? You bet. There’s a reason why Fender went from 7.25” to 9.5”. It’s easier to setup for modern playing styles. Back in the 50s people didn’t play like people played in the 80s. All the greats performed wide bends on vintage radius guitars but idk about their setups. A tech can make a board flatter/change the radius so maybe some of them did that to their guitars? I have three 7.25” guitars, where one was a real pita to set up (61 Strat C shape neck 7.25” radius). Good to know: a professional luthier can change any fretboard radius and even make a compound one in a matter of a few hours. They can also reshape the neck from a C to a whatever. Should that be done? Idk 😅 the more you know the more complicated it gets. But neck shape and radius definitely matter far as preferred playing style and size of hands goes to be comfortable and professionally set up. Rest is in the hands. Play more guitar 🎸 Yes you should care.

it comes down to player comfort and for me that is flat compound radius fretboard and neck like Jackson and Ibanez guitars have for fast playing. Thick necks good for bending and so forth.

If you got a guitar and you really like the way it feels and the way it plays it's not a bad idea to know the specs for several reasons

Very interesting topic Paul. Personally I don’t mind what radius of fretboard or neck profile I use. It’s interesting that Gibson always say their fretboards have a 12” radius but every Gibson I have ever owned range from between 9.5 to 11” radius never 12”. You didn’t go into a great detail about neck shape which is where in my opinion the true difference comes into play. Perhaps that’s a different topic further down the line. I know on a set of callipers like you did my 57 tele is deeper than a Gibson 58 or 59 neck the main difference being the 57 tele has a very pronounced Vee profile neck therefore, less bulk towards the outer edge, great for getting the thumb over the top technique. It feels very skinny despite being deep at the same time.

Great video thanks

The best neck I've ever played is on my Gibson EXP 83 (Like James Hetfield's two white Gibson Explorers that he used in the mid to late 80s) , I'm assuming the radius is 12" and it's fairly small I think, but it's still got some "roundness" to it, so it sits comfortably in my hand when I play. Sound-wise, I'll always be a Strat guy but that Gibby neck is hard to beat. Same with a Les Paul G0 I used to own. Very comfortable to palm & play. I regret selling that one. Never really paid much attention to fretboard radius, my first guitar (A mexican strat) has a 9.5" radius, never had a problem with it, I've played vintage strat necks as well (7.25" radius and vintage fretwire) , never had a problem with them either 🤣(neither did the GOAT Hendrix 🤣). As long as it fits nicely in my hand, I couldn't really care less about the specs of the neck tbh.

Dang. Nice Greg Cock signature. I've wanted one of those for a while, but really shouldn't add another guitar to my lineup.

It matters. I’ve had 9.5, 12, and currently 7.25 on my road worn strat. The Gibson definitely gets preferred for speed work, and the strat for its tonal variety, chording, and well, its sheer beauty and heritage, but you do notice on the upper register, even with narrow talls.

Agreed with this. Only until RU-vid did I even really think about it hah. For the most part the different necks were just different. Didn't really matter why because the guitars were all a little different. I think it's only really a big deal if you are getting a custom shop piece because of course you'd want the guitar to squeeze out every possible thing you'd want. Otherwise within 10 or so minutes I don't even think about the neck.

The first thing I consider is what does the neck feel like in my hand.. Pickups are important.. but I can get around them with pedals and EQ… What I need to know is… “Where can I go to feel the different shapes… without buying a bunch of guitars..?! Thanks for the vid.!👍🏼

Does the neck/fret size choice have anything to do with the height of the player, in terms of hand size?

Thank you for putting this into contxt!

Very informative video! As a fairly new guitar player, I'm trying to figure out what works best for me. At this point, I am enjoying my Gibson Les Paul Custom with a 12" radius. The 24.75 inch scale also seems to work for me. I have two other guitars with 25.5 inch scales and it's a bit more of a stretch for my hand. Thanks again!

Good video, though it should be titled "Electric Guitar Neck Size" ! You can go nuts trying to figure out neck shape, width, nut width . . . for me a medium everything works well. I wouldn't want a Fender 7.25" or a 14" radius. I have a CS Strat with a 9.5" and a LP with a 12", both M.J. frets, very comfy. I have an old LP Special with a fat neck but it was cheap & well used but love it (up to the 12th fret) ! Tried an SG with a thin 1961 neck and it cramped my hands. My 1960 LP re-issue is perfect for me. Always a good idea to try different sizes at a store, though.

I guess I can only speak for myself but necks absolutely make a huge difference for me. With smaller hands and shorter fingers, I can tell you theres absolutely a difference in comfort and playability for me between different neck profiles

To my ear a thicker neck looses some air of the string, but gains some meat. For a Strat I like a fat C neck; 22mm. at first fret 23 at the twelve fret. I go for a thinner neck for the faster stuff, because of tone, not technique, though that helps as well. Your measuring is actually good, because both the height of the frets and the string height is included, which vary quite a lot ;-) The more years you play the easier it is to transition between necks IMO.

For the first 10 years of my guitar playing, i wpuld just play and not worry about specs. I just played. But now that I'm playing very technical progressive music and practive 5 hours a day, ive realized that specs matter a lot to me. Playing a 16 radius fretboard is so much easier to sweep pick vs 12 and below. I notice the small movements over practing over hours on end on the same technique. Also, wider flatboards are easier to chord for me, while my smaller neck can make getting to the next string a bit faster, even if its a microsecond, but i can habe my fingers bunched up when i try to play 10+ chord progressions. Now if your just jamming for an hour, none of it matters if your skilled and your playing on your guitar, you'll get the job done im sure. But its a feel for sure

Best advice ever. Get a guitar you like the sound of and learn to play it. Don’t get hung up on the size. I’ve been going down that road with many aspects of the guitar. I don’t like this or that, need a different amp, new pedal.

Sorry ... it matters to me and makes a HUGE difference to my playing comfort ... there are certain necks that just do not sit easily in my hands - nor do the frets agree with me. If you're one of those people that can ride any Bike and it feels good ... great and more power to you. Not me ...

Manufacturers record neck depth measurements with the strings off.

6:57 this is what makes me nervous about buying guitars online before trying. im looking at american vintage II strat, its vintage style and I hope I get a good one with modern prod techniques

I think the board width is THE major consideration from an ergonomic perspective and depth and radius not so much…taller frets overcome radius impacts…

Thank you sir 🙏

I can change guitars with different radius and not skip a beat personally (I don’t “shred” however). If you give me a guitar with 6105 (narrow tall) frets I’m just gonna give it back to you. Med-jumbo is the happy place for me but I can play any other except 6105 without complaint.

clarifying. thanks!

On 7.5 radius you after have higher action because notes fade out so your wrong

I always tell people who are saying that this and that neck is necessary, that we are not born to play any instrument, we learn to use whatever neck and proof of that are violin players, my fingers are thicker than the neck of violin. And that doesn't stop them to play circles around us in many cases.

The PRS radius is my favorite , i play a lot of classical guitar and switching from classical to fender type radius always felt weird to my hands, while with Gibson i always felt their bodies very uncomfortable. I also have a MIM 52 reissue telecaster and love its baseball type neck.

The only guitar i have ever owned where the neck took some getting used to is an music man cutlass rs. The neck on music man guitars in general run a bit narrower and thinner. I really prefer a thicker neck in a les Paul width at the nut.

to say neck size/shape doesn't matter sounds like complete nonsense to me

This is a smart video to make!! I’ve been thinking about this subject a bunch lately… I’m a newer player (a year or so) and I’ve had full blown GAS since last December, I’ve accumulated prob 20 guitars or so and I’ve thinned it down to a dozen or so… all types of guitars w all kinds of necks and I like them all!! I have strats w 7.5 and 9.5 radius that I can play w ease then grab my les Paul’s w 12” radius and yea it feels and plays different but I’ve learned to love the differences !!! I’m not smart enough or skilled enough to say anything smart here but I’m glad I’m not a rookie w the mindset that I’ve gotta have this or that … a real player should be able to adapt to any guitar and any style of playing and love it all !! 🤘🏼🎶

All you need to know about neck radius is that SRV, Hendrix and Beck all made their bones on 7.25".

Agree one should be able to play any type of neck and radius.

Hi Paul. Love the vids. Personally, 60s LP is about the thickest I like. Can I play u-shaped Tele’s, sure. Do I prefer C and D shaped necks, HELL YEAH. I like 9.5” strats for chords, but for leads, definitely 12” minimum. Will I play vice versa? HELL YEAH. Cheers!

Short fingers wanting to play Hendrix style, I have to have a 9.25 modern c shape, and even with that it’s still somewhat difficult.

Based on the claims you’re making, You’re fortunate enough not to have wrist issues and trigger finger. I just purchased a Heritage guitar with a C shaped extremely fat neck and I arm fatigue after 15 minutes of playing. I either need to send it back or may have the neck sanded down I don’t care if it loses value

For radius i play some stuff differently with 7.25 For neck crave tho i have my own favourite (musicman cutlass, ibanez az). Definitely I'm more comfortable with usual fender stuff but it's not like i find any other stuff that difficult to play. I still till today hated ibanez wide flat skinny wizard neck tho.

Also a 7.25” feels waaaaaay different on a C shape than on a soft V. It’s crazy. And I can tolerate a 12” on a modern C but not on a V, that’s just weird flat on a Strat anyway. Compound say from 9.5 or 10 to 12” up the neck can be quite okay. If you wanna know what feels right for you do yo research on brand model year and then try as many as you can that suits your size of hands and playing style requirements the best. And expect your taste to change 😆 This is becoming a real problem for me and don’t get me started on all the rest…. #guitarmentalproblems

I wished you used an Ibanez guitar, that guitar has very thin neck but very wide like 43m at the nut.

Many players who have small or large hands or who have injuries care quite a bit about neck size and shape!

Pretty useful

Neck diameter etc... is extremely important to people with smaller hands. As a man with small hands i do NOT enjoy playing certain guitars that shall remain nameless due to the size of their necks. This is one reason I refuse to buy a guitar online. If I can't play it first, then I won't buy it.

I only play a thin chunky u shaped c with a compound 6.5 to 11.5 radius.

Neck is the most important thing in a guitar in terms of playability. There are huge differences. You can adapt to any, but that is not the point.

U must be using active pickups to get the sound.

I have small hands and want to play more with the left thumb but 2 things are required - thin neck and rounded edges. The rounded edges are also relevant and important if the fingerboard is flat in order to do lots of bar chords at the head end. However I think a careful DIY can to the trick here although the fret ends will stand out a bit more

i read that if you use thick guitar strings on thinn neck, neck couldnt be able to held the pressure and explode

Here, this is an excellent example: the wrong (or right, depending on the needs..) setup leads to the flat sound of the dynamics, the distinctive characteristics of each type of instrument/guitar: You can easily see how when you change guitar you don't there is no change of sound, of accent, of dynamics, nothing.. The flattening of the signal that doesn't catch any difference between a humbucker and a single-coils, between a feather and a hammer.. Nothing.. It's always the same..! ; EACH INSTRUMENT EACH EFFECT HAS ITS OWN PREROGATIVES AND PROFILES, THERE IS NOTHING MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN ROUSCING TO ENHANCE YOUR OWN PREROGATIVE, YOUR PROFILE! .. :)

Words of wisdom: Personally I love a chunky neck, but personally, I like a thin neck. It doesn't bother me.

I've had arthritis in my hands since I was a kid and I find that certain neck shapes make hands hurt or get more fatigued after playing for a certain amount of time. My Charvel pro mod dk24hh, and my les Paul 60s neck are the only necks that haven't given me any problems yet. I still keep other guitars for tonal purposes tho.

Radius does Matter, especially the old school 7.25 radius, IT FRETS OUT..

I now know at 51 that the guitar I buy and still got have 42,5-43 mm width ! Never less....

Check out some Mayer tunes - with his alien thumb - and get back to me on neck thickness not being significant. ;)

It's something and nothing. But I would still say that anyone who is even slightly curious should try guitars with different nut widths and neck radii.

After playing a 7.25 radius for 5 years straight. It’s uncomfortable to play larger radius.

I have small , fat , fingers for the most part...Playing acoustic and flat picking.... Yes, I can still play pretty much any guitar you put in my hands ...but... I like , and need , that thin neck , or I will fatigue my hand a lot quicker... and not be able to reach a 5 fret spread near a fast , nor as clean... so I take thickness as well as radius very seriously... Can a play any guitar that's handed to me in a pinch. Yes. But will I like it ? ...No. would I buy a chunky neck ? Well , I own a chunky neck Telecaster... It's for sale...

7.25 is way better than any other neck when U bend U lift up and over where is flat neck U are lifting against all the other stings like head on and alot better feel for playing

If you pick the thing up & it plays good for you then that is right. If it feels strained then move on. Humans are excellent at getting used to things ... but for sure you'll pick up a guitar one day and you will know it's just right for you. Even a cheapie can feel far better than an expensive (sometimes).

I don’t agree completely. I tried an Eric Clapton strat once and because I don’t have plans to ever carve a canoe out of that neck, i had to send it back.

All about the NECK . The sound is changeable on any electric guitar (Pickups, Electronics, saddles, nut. a whole new body on fenders !) . The feel of the neck is not. ITS all about feel with any instrument beginner to expert. You can not make an instrument that feels wrong ever sound great. Radius ,thickness .fret size ALL affect intonation !. Without that its over before it is plugged in. Relic guitars are torn up on the neck to simulate what happened to vintage guitars before we figured out the frets were way too small.

Thin necks hurt my hand, baseball bat necks I can’t get my short sausage fingers around. Gibson late ‘59 carve is where it’s at for me.

Ecco, questo è un ottimo esempio: il setup sbagliato (o giusto, dipende dalle necessità..) porta all'appartamento del suono delle dinamiche, delle caratteristiche distintive di ogni tipologia di strumento/chitarra: Si nota agevolmente come al cambiare di chitarra non vi è nessun cambio di suono, di accento, di dinamica, niente.. Lapoiattimento del segnale che non coglie alcuna differenza fra un humbucker e un single-coils, fra una piuma e un martello.. Niente.. È sempre Uguale..! ; OGNI STRUMENTO OGNI EFFETTO HA LE SUE PREROGATIVE E PROFILI, NON C'È COSA PIÙ BELLA NEL ROUSCIRE A VALORIZZARE LA PROPRIA PREROGATIVA, IL PROPRIO PROFILO! .. :)

I have bought a Yamaha pacifica, the same guitar that I tried to learn guitar on many years ago (at a Yamaha school of Music venue) I seem to recall the necks back then were thicker, at the time my own guitar was a squire strat, I prefered the Yamaha, the one I have now feels more like my old strat which is a shame but hey ho.

7.25 for me or no flatter than 9.05 on a strat or telly

Nahh i've used 12" radius with slim tapper neck. Damn so much painful to play😂

Guitar are like horses. They are different and similiar in way. Learn to ride every breed. Learn to tame the wild ones

If you had a mij Jackson I would find this more believable