GypFloor SILENT floor upgrade | British Gypsum 

I had this system installed in my flat recently. It took a lot longer than we expected to assemble, mostly because the downstairs flat had a single layer of lath and plaster for their ceiling so we had to take extra measures on our side for fire regs. But otherwise, it was an easy construction, much like the video above, and has created an incredibly solid floor with EXCELLENT acoustic transfer rejection. Great product.

Great job, had this done in my flat in London as I could clearly hear downstairs neighbours' voices clearly. Can only hear them now if they are shouting loudly and they get the added benefit of a nicely insulated ceiling making their place warmer :-)

I had this installed in my house in 2019 in West Yorkshire. It was a pig to order as it was a speciality order and some folks as a result tried to rip me off. I ended up ordering through a london supplier. It has been very effective. I do recomend it.

Also add a Bluetooth speaker underneath the isowool and have it entertaining you Neighbours when they are unusually quiet perhaps in the middle of the night when you’re on holiday.

I would seal between the metal and drywall and between the drywall sheets, even seal of the drywall under the struts. Noise gonna travel and if it isn't sealed noise will any cavity.

i'm sure it works but it's not worth 160 or so euro each. This same effect can be achieved with rolled rubber ,some furring strips roxul or any some cheapo insulation. This is just 2 legged resilient channel with a 6 to 7mm strip of rubber bonded to it . Anyone can just make these for a fraction of what they are being sold for.

Yeh, add rubber layer between the joists and chip board. Will add a couple of centre metres but well worth it.

iT works but its not going to remove all noise and each spectrum of sound needs a different method to deal with it . But as below .The UK uses really daft expensive methods to build homes

There is a serious error with this video. The installation of the new floor against the dry lining leaves a gap at the floor edge allowing sound to leak at the edges and get behind the dry lining (it cannot be taken for granted that there is a continuous bead of drywall adhesive at the bottom of the boards). Better to remove the bottom 300 mm of dry lining so that the new floor boards can be butted up to the brick and sealed with sealant, then make good the dry lining.

Not shown in this video: what to do about the perimeter gap, between the metal channel and the wall; or between the floorboards and the wall, especially if you have traditional floorboards that need a gap to expand and contract with the season? How to decouple the skirting from the floor so that footfall doesn't transmit into the walls? Just leave a gap underneath and fill it with sealant?

Thanks for the advice on rock wool.

With all the respect, but the construction techniques are so rubbish here in UK. You pay for the house a lots of money and then you have to pay another fortune to fix the floor. That’s ridiculous !!

Confused. From the video it looks like the metal brackets sit directly on top of the joists. Don't see how that is isolating them from whatever goes on top.

Sound test before and after?

Please send this stuff to Canada!

Is this available in America?

Looks like a good product but really poorly fitted an detailed. You really need to be closing down all the sir gaps

so this will stop foot steps from the second floor from being heard .

Nice video. Why do some people pronounce insulation as "inshulation" though? Very odd

this looks so cheap, budged job