Nice video bud!! That's a interesting test between the temperatures it's nice to see some snow we just get cold, wet and a soggy garden that's a awesome frame 👍👍
Impressive. Very rigorous testing. According to my personal experience, with the same taper, the long pull style can provide a bit faster speed than shot pull
Oh for sure long pull is faster. I am not very good at it yet. I will test again when I am sure I will not shoot my chrony. Lol thanks for stopping in my friend.
@@ATOMark i just use the old school theraband gold it serves me well , fast if you double up but fast as a single as well , i just try diffrent tapers works well
Great frame. I love your band speed videos ( ok..... All your vids ☺️). It would be awesome and add so much if you had some sort of pull scale to measure relative pull force between bands. A fish scale maybe?
I have tried that and did it in one of my older videos but it is difficult. I have to clamp the frame and pull to my draw length to get the weight. I stopped doing it because it damaged one on my slingshots. I will add it if I can figure a better way to do it.
@@ATOMark wouldn't want to damage any of your awesome frames!! Even if you held it over lines representing your draw. You would get a relative number. Not looking for science here, just a gzk orange pulled about 2 lbs lighter than gzk green at my draw (as a example). Anyway. Your videos are much appreciated. Thanks for all the work you put in.
Powerful bands but my experience with these was not very satisfying. Used the .66 and .8 with 9.5 steel. Bands where superfast but used to break from the middle without notice with 10 shots to max 50shots, something that never happened with Precise , Sumeike and So Bong.
Wow I have never had that happen. Maybe you got a bad roll. That would be enough for me to call it quits though. I had the same issue with gong chi green.
What’s the fastest with a light draw you would recommend for 8mm and 8.7mm steel, keep the testing going please, I’m interested in the .7 100% slingshot 25-15 taper
Thanks , it’s all in my memory bank, still sorting my accuracy with going left and low, only testing from about 6 metres which may not be a good thing , possibly too close, I need to get somewhere that the snooty neighbours don’t curtain twitch
Ahhhh it sucks when you have someone watching you. I was filming once and some guy just stopped in the street and watched me shoot. I noticed him in my camera. I was going to tell him to piss off but I didn't want to give him attitude incase he caused trouble. The left and low still giving you trouble?
@@ATOMark yes , I maybe watching too many videos, noticed your elbow looked about parallel with the rest of your arm, I think it’s a case of just let it flow naturally and adjust the fork tips to the right and up a bit. I’ll let you know when I get it sorted.
Tried your style of starting with the anchor point first before stretching out the catapult holding arm and got 4 hits in a row for the first time ever, think I’m on to something.
I tried the other way for a while but found that I kept getting an inconsistent anchor point. This is why I started anchoring first and it helped me a lot. The only bad side of it is if you ever havena failure at the forks you will find out real quick. Lol
Hi Mark What do you think about them pouches? And that “bullet pouch” you have from cattyshack is it good for 8mm steel? I get the feeling like the center hole keeps the ammo in place, but it might be better for larger ammo I want to buy but I want to know your opinion first Thanks in advance!
Still love gzk green but yet to try it with the sharpened taper template (should help to soften the draw) still cant get to the outdoor range at the mo but in a few weeks i'll try 'em!
Mine are the custom 20-15 but sweet for .70 and 9mm 3/8 steel! Be warned though the templates acrylic is thicker than standard so you will need a bigger cutting wheel!
@@qutube100 i have a big cutting wheel. I use it on my other templates and it has plenty room for more. I will be doing taper tests soon for heavier ammo like 9.5 mm and 11mm. I think before I try that I will do the comparison between the 2 and see which is the fastest.
@@ATOMark Excellent i like 11mm and use 12.5 and even 16mm on occasion (close range blunt force trauma on larger quarry) with heavy (1mm) bandsets as its more humane if its foodstuff, but wouldn't waste 9mms on any thing rat sized......cheap 8mm or the like is better for vermin or flying rats!
Gzk always had to hard of a pull for me. Snipersling gets me faster speeds with a lighter pull, the down side to Snipersling is they are not cold weather bands.
Hi big guy, see that you have a Simple Shot catch box, I tried to order one they said they don`t ship to Canada because it too big, how did you get yours?
@@ATOMark Hi, i am wondering if you get "hidden charges" from UPS when u receive your buys in Canada from gzk? Thanks! And love your videos. I am slowly going through your old ones to learn more. Very educational
Hard to tell really. I only really test for longevity if I have some early failures. I have tested bands in the past and GZK orange did really well with 600+ shots.
@@ATOMark When long range shooting, then stiff and fast is better than lighter and perhaps under powered bands. I don't shoot closer than 20m often, but if distance is 10m and only purpose is hit that target, You can propably use quite light set up to that.
If you have your bands tuned right and paired with the right ammo sure. Typically you will be shooting .54 with light ammo so you are going to want maximum speed out of your bands and to be fair to the animal head shots are a must.
@@Dominochaney I test all my bands on a chronograph for speed. Fps is feet per second. Normally if you are ripping a hole in good thick soup can you are shooting over 250 fps good for birds like pigeon. If it will go through both sides or leaving a big dent in the second side you are more towards 300fps. This is good for animals like rabbit but you will want all your shots to be head shots. Otherwise you will be wounding lots of animals
For these test I go for the max elongation for maximum speed. 1. So first I measure the elongation. 2. Then I divide the elongation by my draw length. This will give me my active band length. (Be precise) 3. I add 1cm for pouch attachment 4mm for fork attachment for clips more for wrap and tuck. The active band length will be exact for maximum speed. Caution though! Maxing out your bands will drastically reduce band life. I tend to add .5-1cm of band to increase band life when I normally make my bands.
