Through Dovetail Joints: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E8SrH6HbDdQ.html Mortise and Tenon Joint:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O-j__IVfbeY.html
This is an old video, you may never see this comment. May I just take the time to say how appreciative I am of your taking the time to share the wisdom and knowledge you've gained, in such a clear, concise, unhurried way that it truly teaches. The respect you deserve is unparalleled and hopefully you can feel the appreciation of at least some of us out here.
Thank you, I enjoy sharing it and as a result we have been able to build a very good business. I try to live by the adage, “the more you give the more you receive”!
I love how your "sacrificial piece" to chop out the tail waste is a huge beautiful piece of walnut 😂 Another great video Rob & team, appreciate all the little details!
Thank you Rob for your excellent teaching style and all the great information. I’m really enjoying all of these dovetail videos. I’m rebuilding the deck hatch for my 1961 Pearson Electra sailboat out of ipe wood and I am planning to use dovetail joints
I have friends that told me they cut their dovetails by hand and I said Riiiiiiiiiiiight. The through dovetail video was one of the most amazing things I have ever witnessed. It really can be done
When you mentioned Tase Frid, I thought I'd better pay attention. I grew up down the road from him and his family and their 4 horses. What a great family. Very well done video. Thanks
You are an excellent teacher, and I have learned so much from you. Thanks Rob! Wishing you and yours a Merry Merry and a Happy Happy from Tim in Oklahoma. ☮️ PEACE!✌️
Just bought your saw Rob!! cant wait for it to arrive, I was actually considering taking my Veritas (14tpi) dovetail saw and making the front a little more around 22 tip, but after thinking about it, it seemed like a terrible idea!!! so ill use it as a crosscut saw instead. What a fantastic idea of setting the teeth like that
Awesome video, Rob. I use your dovetail saw-blade marking knife. Rather than saw past the baseline, I ground off the top of the knife at such an angle to allow it to reach down to edge of the tail board when transferring for the pins. Works great. Thanks.
It's a real pleasure to watch an expert and learn from their Experience as to how it's done. Very very informative indeed and you learn a lot from being shown just how to go about executing the very same finished article for yourself. Thanks again Rob Cheers Les.
Love seeing the dovetail master at work~! I'm practicing my thru-dovetails, but am excited at the idea of doing half-blinds next. I guess a Kerf X10 is in my future. Thanks, Rob~!
Incredible consistency in the quality of the education, Rob. Superb reinforcement. You should get an award for the teaching as well as the craftsmanship!
I've watched you do this several different times and I think this is the best one yet. Still refining my thru dovetails but am working up the nerve for half blinds. ps: super happy with my new cross cut joinery saw. Highly recommend to anyone. Truly a life time saw.
Wow! Fantastic work! Thank you very much for the interesting and useful video. I look forward to the next master classes. :) Take care of yourself there.
Thanks for this great video again. I have to make these joints soon and it's a great help. I live in Europe so i have to find an alternative for your marking knife and X-10 because they look really helpful in cutting this joint.
Great video as usual! I bought your video of the same process a while back also, but this presentation is better. Faved and saved on RU-vid! I noticed your new head set magnifiers, I bought the same a few months back and for the most part they do a pretty fair job. I like that they came with several extra snap on lenses too. The l.e.d. lamp is OK, but my one gripe is it doesn't stay tight on my head. Always seems to loosen while I'm working and slips down on my forehead. I guess that's the price for having a pinhead!
Fantastic video thank you!!!... One side finished, only 3 more to go 😉... Absolutely fantastic WOODWORK!!!... Building furniture with power tools is "accurate carpentry (my own term)" rather than woodwork!... You are doing woodwork!!! I believe where any woodworker TRULY CONNECT with the wood is while paring (with super sharp chisels of course) a joint to fit perfectly!... Something that's not necessary when using power tools!... However, there is no comparison at all! When it comes to woodwork, you are an absolute MASTER!!! Thanks for sharing! 👋👍
Just practice straight cuts. Don't practice cutting dovetails, just practice dropping the saw down in a straight line. As Rob has pointed out, you don't need to be perfect. I am not talking about years of practice, 10 minutes of pure practice where you are not worried about making a mess of a project, can go a long way. The keys for me are: To have a decent saw, it doesn't have to be all that expensive, but it needs to be a real dovetail saw. When I started, real dovetail saws were not being made. There were Japanese crosscut saws, hack saws, some saws that claimed to be dovetail saws, but were dull and cut a trench, etc... Today there are no supply related reasons not to have an actual saw. Let the saw do the cutting. Keep the sawing relaxed, use as full length strokes as you feel comfortable making. Don't get into the habit of just using the an inch or two of the saw, and pressing down because progress feels slow. Keep it smooth. Observe the gap line next to the blade where it enters the top of the board. Keep that visible reference parallel, as much as you watch the layout line. Concentrate on having a non-binding drop. Practice making cuts one after another in some scrap, do some of these to start with, without a guide line, develop the feel before you start following a line, as trying to keep the saw on the line can end up making you try bending things into place. Smooth and flowing. When you first address the board, place the saw on your layout line, or square to the imagined cut if you are not using a layout line (for practice), and once it feels right, close your eyes and lift the saw off the board, put it back down on the board, and get comfortable, now open your eyes. Often you will see that your saw's position is no longer square to the cut. Adjust your body to the new position. When you are learning you can do this often, until you naturally assume a correct position. This will make your saw stroke more natural and flowing and the saw will want to drop on the line. I have been cutting dovetails for 40 years, but I don't cut them every day. Or even every month. I observe the above points every time. I do a minute or two of practice sawing before I cut an expensive piece, like a batter warming up before going to the plate. I separate practice from projects.
Exceptional as usual Professor Cos. I can do thru dovetails pretty fair. Guess I will tell Santa I need a Kerf x10 and a dovetail chisel for Xmas. Don't think he has a new body that doesn't shake, LOL, so maybe the extra gear will help the old guy out, me. Stay safe. Semper Fi.
I’m drawn to the marking knife: just placed my order. Anything that can start off the cut right make sense to me. Rob has made the process formulaic and recipe-like, leaving just two steps that rely on raw skill: sawing the tails square to the face and sawing the pins square to the end. For the pins he’s thought through getting the cut started (see above). That leaves one key step: starting the tail cut. I wonder if the marking knife could double as a kerf starter for the tails, too. Big open question. I’ll let you know when it comes in the mail. The rest of it is sawing straight once you’ve started. I can already attest that I’m having greater success with Rob’s saw than with my pull saws so far.
I'm 58 and am so interested in woodworking as a hobby. I've watched nearly all of your videos. They're so good! You make it look easy but I know it's not. Practice makes perfect after all. I'm gonna go ahead and jump in! Thanks for all of your teaching.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Woodworking is a very relaxing and enjoyable hobby. You ate creating stuff with your own hands. You should consider taking one of our training the hand classes
Hi Rob. Very informative video. If you have never done a short video on sharpening one of your half-blind dovetail chisels can you show us please or maybe explain in a reply. Very curious as to how you get the sides of the chisel sharp since all three sides are sharpened. Thank you Rob.
See the glue nozzle cap is the type I always found hard to open after the glue dries. No longer a problem. I found a washer with the ID that is bigger then the cylinder but smaller then the flange. Now you have a big disk to pull up on. The only issue is that the washer needs to be centered to fully close the cap. Would have supplied a picture.
Thanks for sharing Rob, Great information and will be giving this a try. I just received my apprentice sharping system from you guys today and will be sharping a few chisels this weekend.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I have a few of the Narex chisels, they are not really the best but i am trying to save money to buy some wood river or lie Nielsen's.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Well as of 5 minutes ago, I went for it and just bought my first set of high end IBC chisels from you. Thanks Rob for your videos.
What a great video. Well structure, simple to follow, entertaining, interlaced with years of experience and knowledge. What else could you ask for. Thanks Rob. Q. Is there a simple way of setting out uniformly varying dovetales. IE. small, medium, large, medium, small for a five pin joint.
Rob great tutorial Ain't wheel marking gauges the greatest tool ever invented, always remember using the blunt pin gauges in school woodworking class wander all over the grain and the teacher saying "a bad workman always blames his tools", wish I'd known - I could've said "yeah and in thirty years time I won't have to"
Hi Rob, I have been watching many of your videos, current and from years past. I’m 70 years old, still working, but I now get up daily excited about learning and producing. You are a great educator! I have some similar issues with eyesight. I notice you have changed your “vision assist” gear recently from the grey with inset lenses, to a white set with lenses hanging below and in front of your glasses. Can you tell me what the near device is? Do they augment your glasses which you already seems to use for close up work? Thanks again for your superb teaching.
I do not wear my glasses with my headgear, Jake got the new ones for me and they are still in the trial phase, dont know if I like them better than my old ones yet
I also noticed that the blind gage line on the pin board left a mark on the end of the pins. Theoretically you won't be planning the ends of the pin boards because they are already fitted to the drawer width.
My half blind dovetails always come out better than my through dovetails. I think its because with the half blinds I'm only focused making sure 2 planes of the wood matching perfectly. With the through dovetails I have to worry about 3 planes.
I'm thinking one could make a pair of skew chisels (one left & one right handed) by modifying standard bevel chisels or pre manufactured to the desired angle?
Rob, can you hit the Kerf X-10 with a metal hammer? I use a 375 g Daruma Genno steel hammer. It seems that would dent the back of the X-10. Do you agree?
Hi Rob, planning to do some of these soon. Could you use a mini X10 (length of tail) with no handle that you can gently tap instead of the marking saw blade knife? Would this work and prevent sawing past the line on the tails? Cheers, ash
I had an idea, if someone owns a power chisel that's smooth they could make a chisel from a scraper blade the same thickness as the kerf. I'm assuming it'll work I don't own one to test it.
Great video Rob and Jake.! I have one question, I've watched your other through dovetail and halfblinds videos, but for some reason I can't figure out why you off set sawblade kerf? Is it to make the joint tighter or reduce gap?
You offset so that you end up sawing exactly on the edge of the pin where it meets the tail. If you did not offset there would be a gap the size of your kerf on each side of every tail
Hi Rob. Really enjoy your videos. Question if I may. I'm using Western Maple for drawer sides, 1/2"x5". I"m getting a massive amount of tear out when I chop the waist from the pins. I like to think my tools are sharp, honed and stropped. Drawer side clamped to a piece of scrap, but the cross grain portion of the joint looks like the mountains of the moon. Any thoughts?
Hi Rob Would you please tell me how high your work bench is and how tall you are. You appear to be planing wood at a comfortable height whereas I have to bend forward to plane on my bench. Thanks
Hi Rob.One more time an amazing video.I have one question.About LN #140 skew block plane for a person right hand what is the better choose , skew for right or left?
Thanks for the lesson again, but i want to ask for suggestion. I want to try and build wardrobe with sliding doors but im not sure what joint to use there because by opening the doors there will always be some sort of hard hit on the sides and i dont want it to broke after a while. Any idea is welcomed and thanks again.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking its mostly because space the distance from the bed to the wardrobe would be roughly 60-70 cm. And i want the wardrobe to be 2 meters wide.
Don’t you have to measure the thickness of tail board after you cut the rabbit? BTW Rob you have that “natural” affinity for teaching, I often wonder if you talk your way thru cutting dovetails when ur alone lol
You can take the measurement before or after th erabet as long as you account for th ethickness. I recommend taking the measuremt after cutting the rabet.
Is there a simple way of laying out uniformly varying dovetals. IE. small, medium, large, medium, small for a five pin. Or small, medium, small for a three pin.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Width of pins. I was looking for a way similar to the way you use dividers. I can't see a way of that working. The only way I can see is to decide on a unit of division (IE. 3mm) and use multiples of that unit. So, side space = 2, space between pins = 1, outer pins = 3, centre pin = 4. Hence this three pin design would be 15 units, or in this case using 3mm units it would be a 45mm wide side board. Layout the pin design and then trim to width. The problem with this system is for this simple 3 pin unit then increasing the division unit by 1mm increases the width by 15mm (7/8"). Hence, my search for a way of using the dividers. They reference the existing width of the board as it's base unit.
How do you sharpen the special chisel? Just on the front or also the two angled sides? Is there a different way to trace the pins with the knife instead of doing that extra angled sawing? I disliked that new action a lot, it seems at the finished work that you made a beginner mistake...
You sharpen the half-blind chisel just like any other chisel. the angled part doesn't need to be real sharp as its main job is to allow the front to getinto the corner, I dont think I have ever sharpenedmine. If I did I would just take a fine file to the angled sides. AsI said in th evideo you can just do the normal tracing (e.g. loke through dovetails) just dont go past your line on the pin board as that would show. You just have to eyeball the plumb part of your cut, which can easily be done. I dont understand your comment, " it seems at the finished work that you made a beginner mistake..." please explain
@@RobCosmanWoodworking like not the marking gauge, the dovetail chisel, dividers, you know all those tools. I'm sorry but I don't have those tools but I really wanna know how to do this. Hope you can help, thanks
I think Rob made a small mistake. He set the base line by measuring the thickness of the tail board. Then He cut the rabbet. The base line should have been set using the thickness of the tail board after the rabbet was cut.
I understand Rob's reply. The procedure appears to depend on how deep the rabbet is and how you set the marking gage. I often make the rabbet deeper than Rob does so I need to be carful to take the rabbet into account when I set the Marking gage.
I use 2 layers of painter's tape and use the marking gauge to cut the rabbet out of the tape. Make sure the marking gauge blade goes through the tape and into the wood.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sorry, didn't mean to be so harsh. I don't have a video. Guess it's kind of old-school...just use a dovetail saw, couple of bench chisels and a fishtail chisel (other than what's required for markup). Granted it took some time to get proficient with these tools to get good results, but that pays off in so many other ways. I'll sometimes I drill along the baseline to break up the cross fibers. I do like how you finish off the saw cuts with your tool and may give that a try.
