I am a lover of hand stitching for many reasons (good for the soul, the look of the stitch, and for the artisan part). However, customers are not interested in how much time, detail, and thought you put on a product, hence they will not pay the true price. Therefore, unfortunately, I have to combine hand stitching with machine stitching if I want to see any profit. But I definitely prefer hand stitching over machine sewing. It will depend on the size of the project (bulk or prototype).
While I've been leather crafting for decades for myself, I finally decided to start my business this year (2022). Currently, everything is hand-stitched if it is vegetable tanned leather, especially if it's been tooled. However, I find myself unable to justify the time spent hand-sewing items made of chrome-tanned leathers because the seams for those are typically turned inside where they are hidden. I bought one of those Chinese cobbler machines to dabble with machine sewing and find it works a treat for chrome-tanned leathers. It also allows me to produce more faster, even though it's hand-cranked. This, in turn, allows me to charge less for those products, consequently selling more. Oddly, I also believe it highlights the value of the hand-stitched & carved goods, making the price more palatable to customers who normally complain about the high cost of hand-crafted goods. Honestly, there is room for both techniques. It just depends on your audience, location and theme of the festival, and the type of goods you're selling. Small stuff like wallets and eyeglass cases = just hand stitch. Purses and larger bags = machine stitch for strength and speed, but hand stitch for embellishment. Chaps, jackets and belts = machine stitch for efficiency.
on a sewing machine or manually sewing is very dependent on the size of the product and the length of the seams. For a wallet, the loss of time for manual sewing is negligible. For a backpack with straps, lining, pockets, etc. - the time difference can reach 8-9 hours
I have been a making for five years in both the retail (online and storefront) and wholesale business. Most costumers are not like us makers, they can’t understand the value in things like hand stitching or why veg tan is special. I have been able to teach costumers on these topics when I get the chance but that’s few and far between. Is saddle stitching technically stronger, yup, but the reality is not only can machines do it faster but they give more options and results that are easier to replicate. So most business’s will do best with clicker presses and sewing machines, while the hobbyist will take immense pride in the hours of thought and precision that was put into their creations.
This was definitely part of my "deleted diatribe" I originally put at the end of this video. After selling items in a local shop for a couple months you come to the cold realizations of what the market actually demands.
As a one-man shop, I can see the value of having a few sewing machines and a bell-knife skiver. I'm not sold yet on having a clicker press, as I often want to modify here and there on the fly. I like to see how small shops operate without a clicker press.
The question is? Can you still market leather goods as being 'hand made'. Well, in other trades like tailoring and the upholstery trade, they both use sewing machines and say that their work is hand made. What do you think?
@@paulj3653 there's no one true answer. It's hard to draw a line where some work becomes non-handmade. I've seen many funny discussions on this topic. I think that even if you are using a clicker press and a machine to sew it's still handmade. It's not like you just put leather into a machine and a product appears after a few minutes, right? It takes a lot of hand-work to assemble those leather pieces into a proffesionally looking item. Yes, handstitching is great, but there aren't a lot of people who'd pay reasonable money for a tote bag that needed 4 hours of handstitching when the other guy can sew it with a machine in 10-20 minutes tops. Yes, saddle stitch is much stronger. But it's not like machine stitches fall apart easily. If you make it correctly they will last. Also it doesn't matter what others think. Just be fair to yourself and your clients.
When I see adverts from "artisans" that say handmade, I expect it to be hand stitched. A lot of the time that isnot the case. I prefer hand stitching because saddle stitching is a lot stonger than a machine. Not a rant. Hand stitching is more satisfying and good for the soul
Yes, I do agree Jim, but few customers will pay for the extra time. Customers even have trouble understanding what veg tan is compared to chrome tan. It’s all about time and customers do not want to pay for a trades men’s time.
Everyone gets to have an opinion. Would you expect a Handmade Wedding Dress to be stitched by hand? Of course not. I place a high value on Handmade as well, but respect the artisan's right to use the tools they find most appropriate for their product.
I’m a hand stitch type of leather worker. I don’t think I will ever go to a machine. The look is most important to me, with the machine I find the back of the stitch is less appealing. With hand stitching you can use thinker threads too. I also like the stitch angle you can change with different irons.
Currently only handstitching. Which I think look absolutely the best. But looking to buy a machine just to save my hands. Too long time in the automotive industry messed up my thumbs. My thoughts forward is doing both. More exclusive projects or very visible seams by hand and simpler projects on the machine. Your video really confirmed one of the thoughts I've had earlier. A clicker is the real timesaver. I'm starting of with an arbour press and small dies for the small details like D-ring holders that takes a really long time to make.
Great idea for a video. If you have only one machine, sometimes it can take up to an hour to get a machine set up to do one project: needle type and size and any troubleshooting issues; bobbin/hook issues; top tension issues; bottom tension issues; thread issues; matching all this to the type and condition of the leather you are using. If the project alternates between different layers and thicknesses, there might be some intermediary changes necessary. I've had situations where I spent an entire weekend trying to get a cylinder arm dialed in for a simple project. That said, after some experience getting to know a particular machine, one can begin to troubleshoot more easily. The real advantage of machine stitching is if you are doing one particular item in bulk, but even then, it might be best to have three machines set up for different aspects of the project. Hand-stitching becomes a relative advantage when you might simultaneously want to work on multiple projects, alternating among them as you allow a mold to shape, glue to dry, dye or edge finish to dry, etc. Let's say you want to work simultaneously on a simple card wallet, messenger bag, hat, complex briefcase, duffel bag. You might have to re-calibrate a machine for each one of these projects, some projects multiple times. Try this for a video. Have your machine setup to stitch a thick leather project with 277 or thicker thread. Then time how long it takes for you to reset the machine to stitch a simple card wallet with 1.5mm layers of leather. Compare that time to handstitching, where setup time is negligible to non-existent.
The right answer is BOTH. I agree with Maru's comment that customers just don't care about if it's hand stitched and took 5 hours vs. machine stitched and took 3 hours. Especially for straps, long runs etc. All that being said, I'm literally putting my machine together today as I just got it. I expect I'll free up a lot of time and things like long zipper runs won't be such an intimidating run anymore. I'll report back after I've used it a bit.
For me, I do both. Typically the project and quantity determine the need for hand or machine stitch. Big production runs are usually machine stitched, one offs are hand stitched. I'll also incorporate both into a single project if necessary, sometimes there are details where my machines don't have good access and hand stitching is a necessity. If time is no concern and the budget allows, hand stitching is great, but I find more often than not the production projects are usually rush orders and the budget doesn't permit hand stitching.
I'm a hand stitch leather person. I've never liked machines and at my age don't feel ill have a need or justification to spend the money on a machine. Mostly a hobby for me that with any luck will bring in a little side income or at least pay for itself. I also just like the look of handstitching better - old school rugged kind of thing lol
It all depends on the project. If I’m producing wallets for my shows are use a sewing machine or if I am doing a one off or a prototype I will hand stitch it. I do offer a hand stitching on my wallets but I do charge extra. I have a heavy duty singer industrial machine right now but I ordered a Cobra Class 4 and should be in next week and I’ll be definitely doing most of my work on that.
I think it is incorrect to compare a saddlebag manual seam with a machine seam. Machine seam is easy to unravel when damaged, since the thread goes on one side, and the manual seam constantly goes to the other side, which does not allow it to unravel and is stronger, so it is used for sewing saddles where there are large loads.
A true leather sewing machine creates a loop stitch. The loop is sandwiched between the two (or more) layers of leather. Thread is fed from the spool on the top and bobbin on the bottom. Two threads, sewn together. They have to be cut apart.
I like it a lot especially coming from a Consew machine thats not made specifically for leather in mind. Im not great on it yet but I can see how it will make a difference.
You’ve also got to take into account measuring out your thread and threading / de-threading a needle for hand stitching.....but.....it’s always worth the time to hand stitch. Cool video.
I like the look of hand stitching but two factors for me leave me wanting a machine. #1 the noise all that banging with a mallet and stitching chisels is impossible when my wife works night shift in an ICU. The other is frankly the time. If I want to make a batch of 20 or 30 simple card wallets a machine would make the process so much less time consuming. By the way I’ve purchased some of your acrylic patterns and they are fantastic.
Hallo from Vienna Austria, Hand-stitching hold 1000 times better than Maschine stitching !!! I stitch everything whit hand for quality etc.!!! Have fun & thx for the vid Cut the thread ones from the Maschine stitch & you can open the whole stitching! Hand stitching you can cut multiple times and the stitching don’t open!!! Yes, need more time BUT the quality is more much higher!!!
Hi, I am mostly a hand stitch leather worker. On a whim I bought a singer heavy duty on sale a while back, tried it on some projects but just never really liked the look of the machine stitch. Wanted a smaller machine because I'm a contractor working overseas and space is limited. Personally, I prefer the durability of a saddle stitch. I know that anything I make will hold up over time if a stitch pops and not going to unravel. Maybe one day I'll upgrade to a better machine and try again on certain projects. Who knows...anyway, have a great day and hope everyone is staying healthy.
Yes I think I will always be partial to saddle stitching. I have had a few sewing machines in the past and wasnt until I got this Cobra that I actually liked what the resulting stitch looked like.
I have a Cowboy 4500 machine (Juki 441 clone) from 2009. At that time the Cobra machines had an identical bobbin/hook housing and cover. Your Cobra machine seems to have a different bobbin/hook housing and cover. Is this the setup for needle positioning? Or maybe your Cobra machine is not a 441 clone but perhaps an Adler clone or something else.
Great video. A few more considerations... A machine must be oiled, maintained, and threaded if you change thread color. And bobbins must be filled and changed if you are making several pieces. A machine doesn't necessarily need to be oiled at the beginning of each piece being made... But my machine has several oiling points and it takes a small investment of time... Not a lot, and that small investment can be figured to be spread across several projects. But it's there. With hand sewing there is the added time of threading needles and waxing for each piece that must be sewn. Machine sewing is definitely quicker. But with all considerations factored in, hand sewing may be a little more competitive than we give it credit for.
I do both; but at the moment, my Cobra4 is causing problems with skipped stitches so until I figure out that issue, I will stick with hand sewing for the meantime.
Since I sew for production/profit, I use a machine for everything. I do feel that quality is probably higher for an experienced hand-sewer, but a machine can still create an attractive and durable product much quicker. BTW, with a reliable firm seam guide, the need to use a seam gouger is negated :)
If you were making this project for a customer, would you be able to sell the customer the one with the misaligned stitching? No. You would have to throw it in the scrap bin and get get a new piece and start again. Time saved: 0:00. Don't get me wrong, I love getting machines to do the hard work for me whenever possible (in ANY task), but there is a time and place for them.
Speaking as someone who is currently making repairs to a 30-year old backpack, I vote on the side of hand stitching. The thread on the machine stitched bag failed, so I'm having to pull all of the stitches out and resew them. The flip side of it is that I would not have been able to afford this bag at the time (having bought it as a teenager) if it had been hand-stitched.
I machine stitch mostly everything except my authentic archery gear and custom orders. Whatever the customer wants is my deciding factor. After 25yrs i only had one bag come back for machine stitched repair. Do it once, do it right for the Customer👌
I don't understand the point comparing apples to oranges unless you're trying to justify using a sewing machine and still trying to call it handcrafted when everybody knows it's not, you used a sewing machine. You may as well be making curtains with fabric LOL. Really good video just busting your chops
Haha no problem! I dont necessarily think using a sewing machine takes you out of the handcrafted category by default. I know plenty of "we use no electricity and no machines - completely handcrafted" brands that use die-cutters, sanders, and burnishing machines. If sewing machines dont count then die-cutters certainly dont either!
Makesupply Leather my work has been done by hand. I would use a manual Creaser and alcohol lamp to heat the tool. I recently bought a fileteuse machine for my edges. I don’t know what category I’m in. Before the machine I would condemn any one who said handmade and used a machine. Now that I have the machine I’m rethinking the handmade thing. It’s very subjective. But I can still say “handstiched”:
I too have the Class 26, but I hand stitch the small stuff like wallets etc. I mostly do totes using your large pattern on my 26 and other bags. I think you should come up with more bag patterns and make acrylic templates for them. I need more patterns of different style bags. Your tote pattern is spot on...love it. More please... It looks like you're able to get back in your building?
I don't count on leather crafting as a means of income. Therefore the most important aspect is pride in the work and enjoying the process. Those two things are most fulfilled for me when I hand stitch. If I can make 50 hand stitched items a year and enjoy the work, that is sufficient vs. machine stitching and making 200+. Someone who needs income off of each of those items will feel drastically different.
I would say hand stitching since I don't have a sewing machine. There are so many of them our there, but kinda afraid to purchase one. Being on a budget is the main factor for me, but they are out there and not knowing which inexpensive ones that could be used is another issue for me.
Just my opinion from experience Hand sewing is higher quality . Machine sewing is looks great .. sadly for the inexperienced machine sewing person like myself .. it usually has mistakes . Interesting video . .. Ive found a 3 prong punch bounces out of the leather easier and makes punching the holes much faster .
It also really depends on the other tools and scale of fabrication. If you are doing most things by hand already then the time of sewing is (for many things) not that big. If you are pumping out many identical pieces and already have machines set up for everything then it is a huge difference. For mass-production sewing even simple things like a wallet would more than double the work required as all other steps are also already streamlined. I my self would also like a leather sewing machine but they are a bit expensive and it is just a hobby - i can sew while watching a video on RU-vid :P Also - 4 Minutes to sew not even 1 Meter with just 2 round corners? i think you would done in half the time if you would do that more often.
I do mostly one of a kind and pride myself on my hand stitching. I don't see a great benefit to paying several thousand dollars for something that as you show won't benefit my bottom line much. That being said I do want a machine if I have to sew zippers in a pair of motorcycle chaps.
Yeah agreed. I added time to my estimations to account for some of that. Setting up the camera gear adds an extra layer of time thats usually not there.
I do both. Small projects, I hand stitch. Large projects (guitar straps, wood carrier, belts etc) I use my Cowboy 3200. There is always the 'looks' argument hand vs machine. My opinion: the back side of a gun belt isn't seen during use. And the stitching looks just fine with a sharp needle. I just wont hand sew guitar straps and belts. Time and hard on my hands. (Old fart) Then the strength of the stitching argument. I have to CUT my machine stitching apart! Don't know where the 'machine stitching comes apart' argument comes from? Folks that don't use machines? Hand stitching purists? One last comment. Machines require maintenance and adjustment, a learning curve at the beginning, but easy with practice. So a long answer for 'both'. Depends on the project. I am a hobbyist. Leather for fun.
Hand stitching is the best way to go, and the most enjoyable, but you have to use a machine whenever you can because customers don't appreciate the added value of a hand stitched item, for the most part.
Bags (large totes) and belts only on sewing machine everything else hand-stitched. If you're making your mark in leather work and make a name for yourself you will have no problem making money good money hand-stitching all of your products. If you want to be known or labeled as a seamstress then use a sewing machine.
