Thank you for not making the base with bird’s eye maple, the sides with flame birch and the work stop from Gaboon Ebony. Simple stuff yielding great results…😂
Here’s an idea I’ve stolen from Adrian Preda’s channel: fixed rails. Instead of moving the rails up and down, put shims into the bed of the jig in order to determine the thickness, bringing your workpiece up towards the rails. The stop would then be the bit that has to be adjustable, but that’s a lot easier than setting the rails.
I have also made a planing sled with fixed sides that uses spacers to raise the workpiece up as needed. The stop does not need to be adjustable either -- it just needs to be installed so the plane's blade will clear and not wack into. Works perfectly!
That came out very well! It will pay itself off for sure. I am curious about the 100 small accurately thicknessed pieces... Will they be in an upcoming video? Cheers, Craig
nice jig. I've made and used something similar for tapering a sidetable legs. Nice channel. I've spent most of the evening watching your material; very impressive.
I have only made one jig so far. It's worth it I can see! Did someone get you started in carpentry? So many grandfathers and great-grandfathers had these skills. Mine did. It's lovely to see you work.
Hi I made a jig with fixed side and used spacers to raise the workpiece but a problem I found was that once the plane started to bottom out, the blade would have a tendency to grab the workpiece and pull it up into the plane thereby making it thinner at one end. Just wondered if you exerienced this. I think I might have fixed it by adding a bit of an old rip saw blade at the plane stop end to hold the end of the workpiece.
Do you keep your plane blade at a certain depth of protrusion? That can affect the thickness of the piece correct even with this jig? I’m thinking of building on of these.
It certainly has an effect, but usually, as long as a batch of parts is the same thickness throughout, it doesn't matter if that thickness is a few hundredths of a mm more or less than what you aimed for. Getting the sides dialed in accurately is far more of a factor than blade protrusion, but again not really an issue, as neither would change during work on a batch. If you need many different thicknesses extremely accurate to each other, this jig needs upgrading!
Hello Gillis, I’m designing a basic workbench now and noticed you used yours very effectively - I was wondering if you feel there’s any advantage to a leg vice as opposed to a typical face vise and if you use a tail vice with any regularity. I also noticed that the legs and sides of your bench meet flush - there is no apron - any comments on that? And finally, how did you join the legs to the tabletop? Would appreciate your comments and I apologize if you have a video on your workbench on your channel, I’m a new viewer. Best, Nick
The leg vise is kinda the only thing I like about this bench to be honest! But it's a huge improvement over the face vise I had before; much larger capacity, and much less racking. The tail vise I have at the moment is very bad, but better than none, and I use it often. I didn't need an apron for stability on this bench because of the construction, and I do have a couple of old videos on that :)
