Handsaw Re-Toothing guide. Hand saw sharpening. 

What a wonderful comment to read. Thank you Walter I really do appreciate it.

@@thewoodmandan842 Hi Dan, do you sell this on etsy or something?

@@kaaona123 Unfortunately none for sale at the moment, I'm hoping to complete a batch in the future.

@@staceylewisdesigns Thank you Stacey, I'll let you know 👍

Count me in, too. Very nice.

Thanks Piko glad you like it!

Thanks so much Chester, very much appreciate your comment

Thanks for your comment, I appreciate the support.

Thank you so much for your comment Chester, I am humbled by your words. 🙏🏼

Thank you for your comment 👍

Thanks for the comment Michael

Thank you so much for your comment 🙏

Thanks Stephen, like you say quality files are a must for saw sharpening, that and a bit of patience :)

Thanks Sean I appreciate the comment.

Thanks so much Kitt, I'm so pleased you're enjoying my videos, more to come soon. 👍

​@@thewoodmandan842 The braces at the end of your saw is reminding me of differential equations.

Thanks for the praise George :)

Thank you so much for your comment, really appreciate it

Thank you so much for your comment

That's great to hear, thank you so much

A lovely bit of workmanship and a pleasure to behold.....sadly in the real world, don't be surprised to see cheap copies coming soon from china

Thank you for your comment 👍

Thanks so much for your comment and praise Scott I really appreciate it along with your encouragement and support of my work.

Thank you Berl, glad you like the guide.

I am making a guide like yours. I’m making mine out of oak. It won’t look anyways near as nice as yours. Yours is jewelry quality.

Cheers Alex

What is the website for the forum?

Thanks so much 👍

Thanks for your comment Dev, pleased you found it helpful.

Thank you for your kind words.

Thank you for your comment, it's much appreciated. Regarding dulling of files, in my opinion, the correct technique is to actually lightly drag the file on each stroke. Dragging makes such a marginal difference to file sharpness. Quoting AES from his excellent post regarding files. www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/files-and-filing.108361/ "At the end of the forward stoke, the cutting action must be disengaged from the work. In the picture below I've exaggerated this, trying to show the file lifted well clear of the job. In fact this exaggerated lifting is not necessary - it's actually not desirable, as light contact with the job should be maintained on the return stroke. You'll soon get into a slow, steady rhythm where the downwards pressure on the file is relaxed as the file comes to the end of the forward stroke and then starts drawing back to the starting position - with almost no downwards pressure applied. This "light pressure disengagement" of the file from the job is very important as it's this action which allows the chips to be cleared ready for the teeth to start the next forward stroke without being clogged up."

Thank you

Thank you Ian

Hi Berl, pleased to hear the guide is working well. I've found cheap hacksaw blades are just not worth the hassle. Try to buy the best blades available to you, bahco sandflex are decent as are eclipse premium if you can find them. Regarding the saw being difficult to start, try partially grinding the first inch of teeth away, this should help stop the blade from snagging, also make sure the saw plate is as low down in your saw vice as possible, this will help prevent the plate from flexing which is the main cause of the hacksaw binding. All the best Dan.

Thanks Mark 👍

Thank you Marc

thank you

Thank you

Cheers Eveline

Thank you for your suggestions, I new saw vice is on the cards 😁

Thank you for your comment. This will likely stay as a one-off piece. I do have plans to release another version in the future.

Thank you for your comment. I've no plans to reproduce this at the moment, but hope to make a variant in the future.

Thanks so much for the comment Armen

Thank you. Hopefully something's to come in the future

Thank you for your comment. There are two beliefs on this, I'm in the "old wives tale" camp 😁

Hi Jim thank you for your comment. I am currently working on another project so have no time to make more currently. It's something I've thought about and I'd certainly like to make more in the future, perhaps a small batch if there was the demand. I can keep you posted if this happens 👍 Cheers

@@thewoodmandan842 Hi Dan that would be great, and thank you for getting back to me.

@@thewoodmandan842 I just discovered this and would definitely be interested if indeed you do make some for sale

Thank you for your comment and suggestions, much appreciated.

Thank you for your comment. What you've described is the recommended method for Corian worktop construction. In my opinion for this application it's not ideal, to a trained eye the glue lines are always visible with the rebate method and the glue is never an exact colour match, plus I like a challenge 😉

@@thewoodmandan842 Absolutely! Mostly what I do requires a more complex approach to internal corners for hygiene on cruise ship waiter's stations, handwash stations, etc. This often ends up with 24mm x 12mm blocks with a 10mm radius milled into a corner, a 10x2 recess into the opposite end of that, the whole thing recessed into a 24x2 trench and the vertical part fitted with a 2x2mm corner knocked out. I actually enjoy designing for these sorts of products, as it's like Lego for adults, however I dislike having to deal with the dust. Or the polishing. Cheers!

Thanks for your comment. This was a one-off piece and currently not for sale.

Thanks Chris. I'll keep you posted

Thank you for the info I appreciate it 👍

​@@thewoodmandan842 Not really the angle. That is consistent on that type. But it desides how much of the teeth will be set and that determines in turn how wide the kerf will be. My theory is that the numbering is right for working in damp wood on construction sites as that was the most common use of saws before power tools. Thought about adding a depth stop screw but came to the conclusion that it is close enough to right to not care. Another option would be to grind the hammer at a shallower angle to better suite fine carpentry in dry wood? It will still bottom out against the anvil at the bottom and there is no need for it to hit the anvil at the top. Just stop at the same point all of the time