yea he is I learnt a lot off of him i been decorating for 5 years now and decided last yr to go Exeter college to get the qualification as it will be handy for the future i just won apprentice of the year which I was really pleased about .
Thanks for the demo! It was very informative. I install wall graphics and vinyl at work but wasn't sure if I should install my own wallpapering at home. After watching this I definitely feel more confident and am excited to try it out!
Thanks for this Rob, I'm giving wallpapering a go for the first time today and it's been useful watching this. I'll comment back after I've done it. Cheers.
@@korgscrew2000 still working on it. Struggling with cutting the right lengths of roll. It’s taken so long they discontinued the pattern I had so had to start again a few times. Don’t worry though, I’ve not forgotten to get back when I do finally finish.
Hi Rob! Nice video! I have a question, do you need a laser or anything to make sure the vertical line of the first panel is straight? Thanks. Cheers from Bali, Indonesia 🇮🇩
Hi Rob im decorator by trade also and I have a new house to do with 6-8 metre high ceilings in the main lounge which is all done in wallpaper so this way may be a lot easier as this paper has a white backing unlike prepasted papers. Thanks Shane.
Good idea to do a speeded up video. So many videos on RU-vid are self indulgent and drone on and on. Thanks great job. PS can you use mix your own paste?
yea mate def will do I work for skinners at mo but think I may b out of a job in April if they loose the contract with the council plus I fed up with painting council houses all the time. and if you have the work next year I would defenately be interested
@4evafishing Well done on the award mate, I also won it back in 1999- Stills makes me smile today ! Get in contact with me if your ever looking for work. Cheers Rob.
@4evafishing Hi, as long as you follow the manufacturers instructions, then stretching on the wall, and gaps in joints should be very limited. Personally the main disadvantage for me, is I find it difficult around sockets, frames, and corners. Mainly because unlike normal paper it won't stick in place for you to mark for your cuts. That said it is quite a clean method and as you can see, it does still give great results.
Would you still allow an inch or two at the top, even if: 1) There is no coving at the top, and 2) Even if the pattern is a free match design? Thanks, Pete.
Hi Thanks for the informative video. I have a problem for you. I have used the paste to wall paper wall liner and the paste to wall solvite. This all went well. When I came to applying the main paper to the lining paper, with the paste the wall solvate, the main paper bubbled up with really big bubbles and no amount of smoothing worked it just moved the bubbles around. Have you a solution for me. Thanks.
Yes. Regular drops of lining paper I will paste the paper. But with very long cross lining or lining a ceiling I now soak the paper with water and paste the wall. All pasting the paper does is expand the paper. Water does the same thing and just wet paper is easier to handle than paste covered paper.
I have a painter and decorator in at the moment and he's trying to wallpaper an exterior wall. He's pasting both the wall and paper, but the wall seems to be absorbing the paste. After 3 days he can just peel the wallpaper off as if it's not stuck. Any ideas?
An exterior wall ? Really so its outside . ????? Most walls should have a thick coat of paint primer preferably oil paint before the application of wall paper . It slows down the paste absorption and aids in giving movable slip to the application. It also makes for a hard grip-able surface for doing double cutting when hanging commercial grade vinyl.
gruppenfuhrer a bit late I know,but don't paste the wall on paper that should be pasted. The reason being is the paper is designed to soak up the paste and will slightly enlarge as it absorbs the paste. It will only be a couple of millimetres but it would create horrible uneven joins. I hope this helps.
can you tell me why i keep getting bubbles in my lining paper and why when i use a metal straight edge and stanely blade to cut top and bottom.. the paper rips?? chris
First of all, you should never paint woodwork before putting finishing paper up, woodwork is done last, doors then skirting, although they are okay to undercoat, secondly, you should avoid trimming the top and bottom of the paper with a full width straight edge, if the ceiling is out, you will have uneven cuts, always trim with a shorter spatula. Apart from that, it is a good job.
Use a fresh razor blade , sometimes paper gets :raggy: and you need to chang your blade often. Also if your wall knife you are cutting against isn’t tight to the baseboard or ceiling the small gap gives the paper to not cut as needed
