Hi thanks for the tutorial I was given a 3.5 older mode, l had to check it out but runs fine no problems I didn't know about the oil next to the prop so will check it tomorrow. Keep up the good work.
Hey Dan. The idea of a filter for the intake of the carburetor is a mute point because outboard motors don't use an air filter anyhow . The environment that they operate has little dust and there is to much of a chance of moisture getting them wet and choking the airflow. All and all a great review and informed review. Thanks and we will be awaiting the on the water review.
Not the first to point that out to me. Fortunately I had not changed it, and I will leave as is! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I hope to make a full day journey on a small river that I'm familiar with (Tippecanoe River)... Once the water levels come down to normal!
I have had zero problems with my hangkia 3.5. It did not have oil in gear box that was easy fix. Also replaced plug wires cj8 replacement "E"nergy premium plug from Home depot. Aside from that engine as easy to maintain as garden " weed whacker." On my inflatable Sea Eagle ex380 we fly along. Easily 7-9 mph depending on tidal flow.
I'm very happy with mine too. I have yet to run it in a calm water environment like a lake or pond. No tidal flows in Indiana! :0) I agree, the motor is a very simple design, and parts look easy to come by via eBay. I hope to soon get on a small lake and see how it does in calm water. I expect the 7-9 mph you described. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi there I have had some experience with servicing outboard motors, I suggest your comment about the air filter being inadequate is really not that important simply because outboard motors are never used in conditions where dust is an issue. Most outboard motors use some kind of spark arrester type of devise where an air filter would normally be fitted in case of backfire igniting leaking fuel.
Dan, I read somewhere that this little motor is really a "1.5".. Either way, it'sa step upfrom a electric trolling motor. Even though I don't need one, I'd still like to have one. My fishing buddy gave me his "OLD" jon boat. As long as it gets me to where I wanta go to and back, this motor is for me .. Thanks man
Point A to point B it will do. It should push a Jon boat a lot better than an air filled raft! It’s a bit noisy but it sounds good for what you’re wanting to accomplish. Thanks for watching 👍👍 There are little issues so I encourage you to watch more of my videos…. Especially on replacing the clutch. I’m no mechanic and am able to do it. Parts are available through eBay and some from Amazon too 👍👍
Thanks Dan. I'm retired too and have a new Hangkai in my shed ready for me to fire up. It helps when somebody else has been to the trouble of trouble shooting problems, to reduce problems for other people.
Great encouragement for me! I'll be adding more.... The pull start has a defective plastic piece that comes lose. It can result in the pull cord catching when you release it too fast (Mine did and broke the cord. Solution. glue that little guide into place and wrap it with a little electrical tape too. I'll make a shorter video soon showing exactly what happened and the fix.
By far one of the best review/demos I’ve watched on any product. It’s appreciated by many. Have you had the opportunity to try it under a load yet? Would you purchase again?
Thanks! I have not had a chance to try it out on the water yet. I will test it out as soon as the water levels here go down. Near record floods on the Tippecanoe river where I'd like to run my test. Hopefully early April 2018. I also discovered that in Indiana you must register and title a raft if putting any motor on it. I completed that this morning. (I may make a video on that process as you have to get special forms from the seller.) I will continue making video's with any little snags that occur as I use it. I would definitely buy it again. Mid-winter it was just under $200. It will probably go up a little due to seasonal demands. But for my use, spending upwards of $1,000 wasn't going to happen..
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Adrian Jaxton Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Outstanding detailed review! Thanks for taking the time and share such valuable knowledge and information. I was planing to buy a 2.5 suzuki to put on a excursion 5 inflatable boat, but after watching this video, I'll definitely get one of these hangkai 3.6. I'll make sure to change those ful lines for better ones. Hopefully it will do fine with salt water. Thanks.
Some additional things to consider is the clutch system is very weak and wears out quickly. Changing the tension spring will add a lot of life to it. You can see the change I made in my video on putting in a new clutch (actually two video's, one removable and the second installation. Not a difficult task as I'm not a mechanic and was able to figure it out on my own 😂. But I'd consider ordering a spare clutch to have available. Regarding saltwater.... I've seen complaints that the water cooling tub rotted out? Again, it's a simple tube that you could replicate with a similar diameter copper tubbing... Running the motor in a tube of fresh water when on shore would flush it out.... There is a 4 hp hangkai out there that is air cooled. Might be a better choice? I've got several video's out on the 3.6 hp, so keep my link handy for things you might run into if you do get one. Don't over pay... I don't think it's worth $300. I paid under $200 and was happy with that even with some of the issues. I appreciate your taking the time to provide positive feedback for my efforts. I was just documenting my journey... Not realizing how successful it would be! 👍👍. 1. Clutch replacement - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H4mPGuEKnKI.html 2. Clutch installation - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qu9OjXbMutA.html
@@BoilerDan1 Thanks a lot Dan. I think I have watched all your videos. I'm a car mechanic, so hopefully won't have any problems with those parts replacement. I have one last question, can you tell if a 6hp motor will be too much for one of those excursion inflatables? For me, it seems the restriction is the motor mount that comes with those boats, but I'm guessing with a sturdy mount connected directly to wooden floor and to the boat mounts, and that goes over the inflatable might be possible. What do you think? And thanks again for all the great videos!
rubenvor : I’d be concerned about it handling that much power. The index brand is a entry level raft. There’s some sturdier ones out there. But yes if you can mount the motors weight and thrust to the wood floor it definitely would help. But I’d seriously consider a more sea worthy raft 👍
Some BP stations sell ethanol free fuel. If your station has a pump that has a setting for the ethanol free fuel, there will be some leftover fuel in the hose that has ethanol fuel in it, so pump a small amount of fuel into your car first to get that fuel out of the hose. My local BP has a separate pump for the ethanol free fuel. Ethanol does a number on Chinese rubber that is carb parts and Chinese fuel hose detierates quickly from ethanol. If you have to buy true fuel. I know it is expensive but in the long run it is worth it for all the issues you will experience from ethanol. The guys who buy those Chinese scooters and motorcycles from Amazon have found out about Chinese rubber and how crappy it is.
Thanks, I will worry less about the issue. I figure I'll check it from time to time, and swap it out if looks like too much. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Wonderful review. Thanks for all the detail. I want to buy a 6 hp 4 stroke. Your review indicates to me that the motors are good enough for the price, which is less than a third of a high brand motor. What's your feeling? Do you agree? It seems to be a bit on the loud side, which is a big deal to me. What do you think, compared to the more expensive brands?
For some unknown reason, I'm not seeing my reply? I will summarize here: I'm happy with my motor, but there are issues I've had to overcome. They are a little things and are posted in the several video's I've made on the motor. But noise compared to an expensive outboard motor is an issue. It's not as loud as a weed-wacker, but it is louder than any regular outboard motor. However the 4 stroke does have a muffler, so it might be quieter than my 2 stroke. The 2 stroke exhaust is underwater to be specific, so your not going to sneak up on any fish that's for sure! Sorry for the delay, but I"m sure I had responded, it's just not showing up here for some reason? Thanks for watching.
Congrats for making this heap of junk to look almost like something what actually works. I bought one of these about 8 months ago. Didn't work properly from the start so I contacted the supplier. Without much fuss, he simply sent me another one and didn't want the old one back. Definitely kudos for PR here - but that is where the positives end. The new motor broke down after 10 minutes of use (the seal on the leg shaft wasn't properly pressed in and let water in the upper part) and from that point everything went downhill. The weakest spot is the cooling system that has so many issues you can bottle them (I am not wasting my time going into details here) and from there the problem cascades to other parts. At this stage I ran already of spare parts I used from the first engine and I have just order new clutch bearing, the clutch arms, down shaft seals and spark plug. I can't remember one single trip longer than 1 mile I would have finished without having to use oars or asking somebody to tow me. I anybody is going to buy this gizmo after reading the above, well, good luck. You need it.
Excellent review! If mine does start falling apart, I will make a more negative video. I've probably got less than 40 hours run time on it. We will see what happens this summer. I also only go upstream, just in case I have a breakdown. I have documented some issues I have had in either comments or additional videos. I hope those considering one reads reviews and follow along as time progresses.....and check out the follow-up videos that I've put out there. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
@@BoilerDan1 My pleasure! By the way, if you bin the motor (and that is what you should do to save yourself money and frustration), keep the instructional manual. Absolutely top entertaining value, worth the price you paid for the motor :-). And printed on a top quality glossy paper too! The author's mother shouldn't have marry her brother ;-). BTW: if you are using the motor in a reasonably cold environment and fresh water, it may JUST do the job. I am using it at Australian Coral Sea and the idiotically designed cooling system is just not up to the job here.
I was motivated because of some negative reviews. In watching, many looked bogus to me. Like they had purchased a used one that had been abused to start with. I won't be using mine in salt water, but I've run it for about 15 hours and no problems that were serious. I'm keeping an eye on the fuel lines, and I did change the spark plug... But all in all, I'm very happy with it. I will make another video of it actually on the water with the Intex 4 raft that I have. Thanks for subscribing!
I’m trying to decide to go with this or an old faithful Johnson or Evinrude from late 50s-70s. I’ll probably give one of these a shot and if it fails me, I’ll go with an old battle axe Johnson or Evinrude.
Just make sure you check out my other videos. I've done a lot of tweaking, and recently replaced the clutch as well. I think if you are handy and don't mind working on the motor, it can serve you well. But there are issues. (spark plug, fuel lines, gas cap vent, clutch, lose wire on cutout switch... So check out my other videos so you know what to expect. All in all it runs well, but it's not without issues... Power, noise...… But I do still like mine. Thanks for watching.
BoilerDan1 Alright. I’m extremely handy. The way I see it, if I buy an old motor I’m going to have to tear into it unless someone else got it running and it’s cost will likely reflect that. I think I’m going to buy one of these an an old Evinrude as a project to fix as a more permanent solution. But, we shall see I have a little while to think on it. Thanks for your reply. I will check out your other videos. I subscribed also. Take care!
Keep you eye open for a good deal! Especially if you are in no rush. The prices on eBay fluctuate. I paid $181.00 in late December. Just to give you an idea. Have fun!
So I was in the process of thinking about purchasing this exact motor. My question is how do I hook up and maybe get to it part of the video and somebody’s asking already how do I hook up a 3 gallon gas tank to this motor?
I’m not an expert on that however I’m fairly sure that you just need to lengthen the fuel line and add a primer pump to get the fuel to the motor. Then once started it will suck in the fuel. Here’s a sample of what I’m talking about: (NOTE, you’ll need to determine the size fuel line to get). a.co/d/3oS6CJc
@@BoilerDan1 yeah thank you that’s kind of what I figured. I figured. Just disconnect a few lines and connected to the little internal fuel tank and get those little hand pump with the lines prime it would go like a regular outboard. I just wasn’t sure but thank you very much, sir.
Enlighten me? What is a predator? I hadn't fished or boated since I was in High School. I'm just winging it with this project.... But I will add that the motor gets better the more I run it! :0)
Look at the air cooled Honda 2.3hp or Briggs and Stratton , there are many similar setups on ebay and other manufacturers like Mud Buddy etc. It's been done and they suck too.
It's your lucky day! It is shown in one of my video's: Here is a link - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NCALT3MKAEk.html (PLEASE READ ALL THE BELOW 1ST) I can tell you very easily too: 1st you remove the pin holding it place. Kind of looks like a bobby pin. You will need to bend it back straight so it will slide out. Then take a flat head screwdriver and gently rock it between the propeller housing and the motor housing. It shows within the first minute in the video. Lastly, if you find the series helpful, and you have extra finances 😂.... Consider clicking the "THANKS" button below and to the right of any of my video's. You can then reward me financially for my help and efforts. Not required, and you would be surprised how even a $2 Thank You can inspire me to continue in my efforts. Regardless, thanks for watching and I'm happy to help out.
Hi! I just bought one on Amazon for $160. I'm going to put it on and old 12' starcraft jon boat. Your videos have been super helpful. I'm breaking it in now by running it 1hr a day in the tank with 35:1. I was wondering what your thoughts were on running 40:1 after that. Do you think running the extra oil might prolong the lif of the mototr?
Actually after break in the manufacturer’s website advises to reduce to 50:1. I’d go with that as it motor will run cleaner and better. Use the best quality oil and that’s the best way to improve longevity. Here’s a copy of Hangkai website: HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline); After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1 (ie, the oil content of 2% gasoline) Here’s the website: m.hang-kai.com/en/ Go to the horizontal lines at the top left corner. Click on them then click on “News” and you’ll find some helpful information.
@HI-PSI Due to age (71), and not having a lake nearby….. taking it out on the river on an inexpensive raft….. Sometimes you just need to take into account your limitations….. short answer, no…. I sold it to a younger guy that had previously owned another similar motor and was thrilled to get it. If I’d had it on a traditional hard body boat, I’d probably still be going out with it… Thanks for watching my adventures!😂👍
In looking at the handle, it does appear that you could simple un-bolt it from the motor and turn it around. The throttle cable may need disconnected and reconnected so that it doesn't have a twist in it. However, I'm not sure how well suited the motor will be on a lightweight kayak? Especially in the front? Although I think I recall the motor weighs less than 25 lbs. The thrust / pull of the propeller could become an issue? Also, the motor is a bit loud. There is no muffler, it just vents below the water line.... So not good for trolling. But from point A to point B it would do the job...... but I suggest you review all my videos, so you are aware of the issues I ran in to. It's not for everyone, but I enjoyed it. Unfortunately, after I turned 70 my family encouraged me to sell the entire raft and motor. In hindsight, I would have been better off with a lightweight solid fishing boat and trailer.... That being said, I was happy with almost everything except the softness of the raft created a loss of thrust because it would flex..... I ended up breaking even when I sold it.... So maybe if it doesn't work on you kayak, you could sell the motor! Thanks, and keep watching the series before deciding if it is right for you!
Colin Easterbrook : Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I’m documenting my experience with this little motor. Several segments available including repairs and improvements that I’ve attempted. So far she’s still running 😁
i think ill have to check and see if i can find fuel line and a primer bubble that will handle ethinal because thats all we have in my area. i just bought one of these and will be beginning the break in next week
Hope my videos help! One important thing, I have been told that in breaking in the motor, to leave the propeller on. Also if using a bucket, keep running cool water constantly. I’m also trying to find better fuel lines. I’m going to check at a local lawnmower repair shop. Thanks for watching!
I use the highest grade of fuel and have found an additive that says it will counter the effects of ethanol. I purchased the additive at Wal-Mart. Can should prepare yourself to replace the clutch..... I've posted a video on that too 😅
Dan I hope you are doing well. I live in Muncie, I got one of the motors for my basstender 11.3 (if you are not familure with them great little boats). Anyway, I am watching the videos, I do not have any questions about them yet. I was just wondering where the boat ramp is that you put the boat in video 8. the ramp is nice and low, I have a small suv that I pull my little boat with and have issues finding places I can access the rivers with. i am sure it would pull most of the ramps, But what if it doesnt? them I am in trouble. If you do not mind I would love to know the location of this ramp. I know some people are guarded about fishing places, I am not taking any fish I just like to fish, I am always alone and will not share the information unless you said it was ok to do. Thanks so much. Bryan Wedmore
Good to have you along my video journey! No problem sharing the location. It’s a free location to anyone. Just Google Fort Ouiatenon. In Tippecanoe County. It’s rarely used except for one weekend in the fall. It’s access to the Wabash, but you’ll be pleasantly surprised with several log areas where there are great spots for bass! Give it a try someday. Thanks for watching 👍😂
@@BoilerDan1 Your videos are so helpful. If there are big log area then Id guess there are flat head cat fish also. I am learning how to fish for cat fish, yep at 58 I am going to learn a new fishing technic. should be fun. I will google map the place. again thanks for the info. real quick do you think it is safe to park suv in the lot at night? Bryan
Hmmm, it’s a State or maybe County park that I think closes at night. There’s a state park campground called Prophet’s Town. It’s not exciting but newer and safe! The two locations are 13 miles apart. I’d feel safe at both places. There’s parking at the fishing place but no staffing. They may close a gate at night, but I’m not sure.
@@BUGMAN-22 Our sons name is also Bryan (small world). I thought of another spot. It’s very isolated and maybe not gated at night. Anyway, it’s a little further downstream. Name is Granville Park. Here’s a link, they have several photos. If you goggles a satellite map of the area, you’ll see it out in the middle of nowhere!’ www.wabashriver.us/access_points/granville_park/index.htm
Hey Dan hope things are well on your end. So here's my situation. I purchased this engine and broke it in for about 3 hrs with a 30-1 fuel mixture. I got a little impatient and attached it to my inflatable and took it out on my lake. Engine started fine but when I gave it full power....the boat do not go forward. ??? If I was to change the mixture to 50-1 will the motor have more power so that it will move the boat?
No, the problem is more than likely the clutch. The spring on the motor is too strong for this application. In one of my other videos I replaced it and that helped a lot. The other possibility is that the bolts holding the clutch are too tight not allowing the clutch pads to pivot outward. Your idea of breaking it in on your boat is the best way to do it. I’ve had several others experience this same issue..... So you’re going to start out getting to know your motor better. I picked up a lighter spring at a local hardware store. The ends were coiled but I was able to bend them open to make them fit. I’ll look up the videos and send another reply with the links to them.
Here is one on the spring I used: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G4qLw14lf9k.html This is one of me removing the old clutch: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H4mPGuEKnKI.html Now here is one of putting it back together: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qu9OjXbMutA.html I hope all works out well with yours. I'd suggest you go ahead and order a back-up clutch. You can get them from Amazon: examples 1. With bolts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6F4J6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2. Without bolts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A09QFVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One other note: I was advised to not use the anti seize product. But do use the thread locker that I mention in the videos. Put it directly on the bolt about 1/2 up from the start of the threads. You can probably see on your bolts where it was used in assembling the motor at the factory. Also remember that this is an aluminum block motor, so don't overtighten anything....
@@BoilerDan1 Thank you SOOOO much for replying so quickly....is this motor powerful enough for a 12ft Saturn Heavy Duty inflatable? I am asking this because if it is not, then I would purchase a more powerful engine and save the time of fixing the clutch issue. What is your take on this......thanks again for your videos.
The problem I have had is that the motor would push into the raft because of my raft not having a good motor mount system for attaching the motor to the raft. It would allow the motor to tilt which in turn caused me to lose some thrust. I’m assuming that your raft is of a better design for attaching a motor? With that being said, it’s a pretty small motor and you are not going to get a lot of speed with it. In calm water I think you should get forward movement similar to someone running or jogging? Like in the 5 mph range? But if you’re going to use it where there is a current..... I think you’d be happier with something with more power. I suggest do more searching on RU-vid and find a video of someone using it on something similar to your needs. 12 ft. And if you put in 3 or 4 people, that might be too much for this little motor. It did ok for me with 2 total in the raft. Wish I could be more specific about the issue, but I don’t know, but it does sound like your clutch isn’t engaging enough because you should be getting more thrust than what you explained earlier.
No, in Indiana, the boat is what is registered not the motor. So that wasn’t an issue. Check with your states BMV, you might be able to have a number assigned for the motor if needed. If you look through my other videos, you’ll find one on how I registered a raft that I put the motor on. Here’s a link to the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JP1YFfuIV00.html Thanks for watching 👍
I always used premium hoping that would have less ethanol, however now most stores Hardware like Menards and even Walmart are selling non-ethanol fuel in the stores in the lawnmower areas. The ethanol deteriorates the fuel lines. But I think you can also get ethanol resistant fuel lines now!
Took me a minute to figure out what you were referring too? But I do have the answer. It is an extra water wheel used in the water cooling system. With the motor you get an extra one of those plus an extra pull start cord/spring assembly. Sorry I didn't point that part out in the video. Thanks for watching and asking.
Hi Dan , I realized you said a Champion cj8 ace didnt have one they suggested a cj7 and after changing the plug and adding new fuel it doesnt start at all? COULD IT BE THE PLUG??
Yes! I’d suggest NKG plug. Here’s a video on it. I list the number with the first 30 seconds of the video. I’m not home or I’d look it up and list it here. But I’m guessing using the cj7 isn’t gapped right? Watch this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JUaHjwJSglw.html
No! You want the motor to run at various speeds but not full speed. It also must run fast enough so that the propeller turns so that water flows to cool the motor. You can hear the clutch disengage, it a little bit of a slipping metallic sound. Once you start the motor rec it up so the propeller engauges, then back it off to slower speeds, then keep it going but vary your speeds up and down. I let it remain on one speed for up to 30 minutes.... But I'm the first hour or two, I'd change the speed every 10 to 15 minutes.
In my earlier reply, there were a couple of auto corrected words that were wrong. Ie… "rec" should have been "rev". The last sentence should have read... But in the first hour or two, I'd change the speed ever 10 - 15 minutes. Hope you were able to figure it out
@@BoilerDan1 what happens if you don’t run it for 10 hrs? I only broke mine in for 2 hours. Took it on the water ran great couple of times. Now doesn’t start!
A guy felt ripped off as his 400 dollar engine did not run from new . He did not complain about his local repair shop that charged him 153 dollor to clean the carb
That’s not good! I have repeatedly stated that the engine isn’t worth $300, and I also reported that I paid under $200. I also do my own work on it, but I’m not a mechanic. Sorry to hear your tale of woe. Maybe others will take heed 👍
I made several videos of my experience with the motor. Including some repairs and things I had to replace as time went on. I’d encourage you to keep watching as some may be helpful. Also it’s best to break in the motor by using it on the water. I only used bucket because it was winter…. Kept adding snow to keep water cool. You should run hose in bucket to keep water cool. But best is just run on your boat. Thanks for watching and have some fun with yours too! 👍
Sorry I can't specifically answer your question. I've never used a battery powered trolling motor. I can tell you that I chose to go with this little gas powered motor to eliminate the battery lugging around and the possibility of running out of power. That being said, if you watch a few more of my video's you can see me going up stream. The river (Wabash) has a pretty swift current. More than I ever realized growing up in the area. Going upstream, by looking at the shore line, it's a little faster than walking, but definitely not even a slow jog. Going downstream however, I'd estimate about 7 mph. I hope that helps you some. A part of me thinks the 4 cycle (4 stroke) would be a better choice? I had some left over fuel from last season.... Finally decided to try burning it off in a all metal Tiki torch. That worked, but I don't recommend that... Just saying what I did. With the 4 cycle, any left over could be put in a vehicle.
One other thing to add to my first reply.... If you have a more solid boat, that is still light weight, I think you will do better going upstream. I have mine on a spongy air filled raft and I'm sure I lose some thrust do to that.
You’re welcome. I made several videos in my journey with the motor including some replacement of some maintenance items….clutch and pull cord. I’d suggest checking some of them out too. I’m not a mechanic and was able to stumble through them. But good to know if you’re considering buying one. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.👍👍
Totally understand. I made the video series to document my experiences... And it looks like it has helped in your decision making. That's good! Thanks for watching and letting me know.
@@generalworks47 Thanks, I looked at what reviews were out there. The bad ones did not show how to fix the problems, so I decided to give it a try partly because I like to tinker with stuff, and I'm recently retired. I figured I would have the time to play with it. But so far, I'm only willing to go "Up-stream, or stay reasonably close to my starting place if on a small lake. I'm still happy with mine, but it definitely has had issues for sure!
There is a small flywheel water pump down by the propeller. It’s not visible without taking it apart. So you can’t increase the water flow. The motor is a combination of water and air cooled. The water pump only operates when the propeller turns, so no water will come out when you are at idle.
I do not know. Sorry. I just recorded my experience with the motor. There is a copper tube that goes through from the pump up to the motor. I’ve attached a link to a video that shows the tube. Maybe you could tie into it? Part 1. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H4mPGuEKnKI.html Part 2. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qu9OjXbMutA.html
an ethanol blend - Yes I would think if you replace the lines with better ones it would be fine. I also had someone tell me the lines will go bad regardless. So I will keep an eye on mine for the first season.
Any gas with ethanol well eventually gum up the jets in the carburetor. Always use non-Ethanol gas on any engine with a carburetor especially a 2 stroke
Let me update: Tom (see below) is probably totally correct, don't use any ethanol. But if you are in a state that only offers ethanol blended fuels you might try this: I found that there are products that help with ethanol problems. I've cut and pasted info. (can get at Amazon, Walmart...Other places too. Lucas Safeguard™ Ethanol Fuel Conditioner with Stabilizers was developed to specifically address issues associated with using ethanol based fuels. This applies to E-10, E-15, E-85, pure ethanol and any mixtures in between including gasoline. Our Product is completely soluble in all ethanol fuels and will not harm filters. Lucas Safeguard™ Ethanol Fuel Conditioner with Stabilizers contains effective additives to prevent rust and corrosion associated with the use of ethanol fuels. Key Benefits Recommended for use in automobile and marine applications. Cleans injectors, valve seats, combustion chambers and other critical fuel components Stabilizes fuel and prevents varnish & gum formation in ethanol and gasoline Combats deposits and protects your engine oil lubricants from the harmful effects of alcohol combustion NOT RECOMMENDED FOR DIESEL APPLICATIONS One ounce treats five gallons of ethanol fuel. Our new 5.25 oz bottle treats up to 25 gallons (94.6 liters) of ethanol fuel.
I bought the 4hp 4 stroke. Almost the same exact motor. However, mine is overheating because it has no water flow, even with that plastic cap off. Please help...
Ed, I think you can relax. The 4 hp 4 stroke is an air cooled motor. You won't have water flow at all. It will be much like a lawnmower engine, and may seem to run hot. I hope this helps, but if it truly is overheating, I'm not sure what or how it could happen being air cooled.
Thanks for the super fast reply. I just assumed it was overheating because the engine was extremely hot. I was scared to take it too far from my house on the lake because I didn't want to have to paddle back.
I'm sure you should run it at about 1/2 half speed as the motor is new. For mine it was about a total of 12 hours run time. also vary the speeds, not just one speed for the break in time. You can do it on the water, just refrain from full speed for about 12 hours or so. You can go 3/4 speed as you progress as well. And after several hours within the 12 hours, maybe full speed for just a very short time. Have fun.....Ps.... So far, I only go upstream, just incase I have a problem. No lake close to me, so I will probably wish I had gotten the motor you did... Mine only hits about 3 mph going upstream... very slow.
They are $25 now, I just bought a 15hp for $29, they have several, a 6.5 jet motor for $18, some are clones of yamaha, if anything breaks and it will, just buy the Yamaha replacement parts...
Update. the source mentioned is almost sold out. Here is another link that has several available. www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-3-6HP-Outboard-Motor-Boat-Engine-w-Water-Cooling-System-Heavy-Duty-2-Stroke/182555798577?fits=B_Engine+Type%3AOutboard&hash=item2a812c6c31:g:8iIAAOSw32lYyIRY
Sorry, I don’t. However in hindsight If to buy another one I would go with the 4hp 4 stroke. The 3.6 hp mixing oil and gas makes the leftover fuel had to get rid of at the end of the season.... I’d hope that the clutch system would be improved in the 4hp but I don’t know that either? Thanks for watching 👍
Here’s a link that has similar carb. Might correct your issue with bogging down when you accelerate? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dv_P1Zz7dR0.htmlsi=m1jAKsbpELFLJn8W
Due to mine being on a rubber raft with a lot of drag, only around 4 -5 MPH. In some of my video's you can see going upstream in a river it is about the speed of a person walking. Down stream it is about 7 MPH like a brisk run! I think it would do better on a light weight hard shell boat. But I'm happy with it. Kind of like a gas powered trolling motor :0)
The 6hp hankai s much wayy quality always if it don't have a nut holding on the prop it's cheaper for the price id get the 4 stroke 6.5 hp actually very good deal . The others are weedeaters
Yes, the 3.6 hp is a weedeater! :0) But I've had fun with it. I'm not a serious boating enthusiast, just wanted to putt putt around, so the small 3.6 works for me.
@@BoilerDan1 in know what u mean it just say u should check out the 4 stroke 6.5 they may seen it for 700 on ebay very nice and more relable ez to start
I’ve always liked Valvoline products and they do make 2cycle oil: Valvoline 2-Stroke TC-W3 Certified Outboard Marine Conventional Motor Oil 16 Fluid Ounce I checked and you can get it from Walmart…. But any good 2 cycle oil will work fine. The valvoline product listed under $11 for a quart. You can find some cheaper in the store. But a quart will make several gallons of fuel/oil mix. Thanks for watching 👍👍
No, you do not need to put gear oil in more than once per season. I was putting too much in, and that apparently causes problems allowing a little water to come in... I just didn't know where the fill line was. I'm getting better with it. I'm just being extra cautious I guess. Thanks for watching.
This is a 2-cycle engine, so for an engine like this you will need to mix the engine lubricating oil into your gas at a 50:1 gas to oil ratio. If you run a two-cycle engine without oil mixed with the gas, you will severely damage your engine.
You’re welcome. Note: In the series I did on the motor, I failed to mention keeping fresh water running if you use a container to run the motor. It’s best to just run it on your boat! I kept adding snow to help keep the water cool. Anyway, I made several videos on my journey. Hope you enjoy them!👍
Be sure to break it in. You can do that on the water, but don't stress the motor to start. Also, it may buck for the first several hours, even after break in. But that will go away. For me it stopped after about 25 hours of run time. Thanks for watching, subscribe if you'd like to keep updated on any issues I have with the motor.
I would not recommend it. I don't think the Seahawk models have a motor mount. My recommendation, (if I had it to do over again) I'd get the Intex Mariner 4. It has thicker materials and would even do better than the Intex Excursion that I have. Here is a link to check out. www.intexcorp.com/products/sporting-goods/professional-series-boats/mariner-4-boat-set/ There are better rafts than Intex, but cost was a factor for me. Thanks for watching.
Here’s what the manufacturer says: HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline); After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1
Let me give you the manufacturer’s website. NOTE: when open, click the horizontal lines in the upper left corner of the page. Then click on “News”. And you’ll find helpful information. Here’s the link: m.hang-kai.com/en/
I think it would but understand it is not very powerful. It is able to push my inflatable raft and it has a lot of drag. Your boat should work better. On a river going upstream I am lucky to go 3 mph. Looking at the shore, it's about a moderate walking speed. Downstream is much better. About 7mph. On still water like a pond, I'd guess 5mph? But again, I have so much drag with the inflatable. I've posted several video's. Check them out as some show me going upstream. Subscribe and you can join my adventure with any repairs I have to make, plus see how it hold up....
I had posted this information, but it didn't get to you. Ebay has several sellers and price points. I think someone buys a shipment of 100 or so, then sell them until they are gone. Mine was from Ebay: Seller name was listed as super-medical-shop. I had very good customer service and item arrived in 4 days. I looked today 3/7/18 and they don't list any of this motor for sale. Just some replacement parts. But there are several sellers listing the same item. Price ranges from around $200 - $350 so keep looking for one with a good price and free shipping.
The castings and materials are excellent, but a 2 cycle is troublesome, inflexible, hard starting, noisy, and just inferior to the 4 cycles made by the same companies. This motor is fairly unique with it's fake water cooling.
Definitely too noisy. If I were to do it again, I’d probably get the 4 cycle. But I did have fun messing with it. 👍 Thanks for watching and contributing to the conversation.
The raft/boat that I made required a title and I was able to get that through the manufacturer and state of Indiana, however the motor did not and nothing came with the motor. If your state requires one, you can get the paperwork needed from your BMV.
Yes but breaking it in can be done by using it on the water. It’s actually better to break it in running it out on a lake. I’ve also been told that taking the propeller off was not a good idea either. Another note, I kept the water cool by adding snow and or running water continuously when running mine in the bucket. Basically just vary the speed from time to time and don’t go full speed during break in. Thanks for watching!
@@leroythehooker If you are using in saltwater, be sure to run clean fresh water through the water cooling pipe of the motor by running the motor in a tub of water. The tube may not hold up real well in saltwater from what I've heard. I made a video showing replacing the clutch. In that one I show the water supply tube. Something you might need to replace if in saltwater. The supply tube looks like copper, but I suspect that is just a coating.... But you could make one out of copper if yours ever fails. Good luck!
@@leroythehooker Ha, Ha..... I can reply because, "I'm 100% Retired" and loving every minute of it! I check my email and RU-vid channel off and on during the day and reply as I'm available. I just happened to be checking my e-mail when your response poped up.
I would recommend something a little more solid than the raft I put together. I lost thrust because it to squishy. So spend a little more and find a better design! Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks Dan, very usefull videos, just wish I had seen it or spent the time to look over my Hangkai 3.6HP before taking it out. I have mine mounted off the side of a canoe, its really just an inexpensive project. First failure was the choke setting. After inspecting the air filter I realised the choke settings were backwards and got it going in a bucket. Next time out my pull start and claw pawl failed with bits everywhere. $20 on ebay and I’m good to go again. Maybe this time. Ive added marine grade 75-90 gear oil to the gear box. Marine grade silicone grease to the seals and shaft. Pulled the water pump apart and coated all surfaces with the silicone grease and put it back together with thread lock. Couldn’t get a NGK-BM6Y, got a NGK-BPMR7A and a Honda/Denso W22MPR-U.
Thanks for sharing. I didn't indicate in my early videos that when using a bucket, make sure you keep the water cool. Running a hose so it doesn't overheat. I actually kept adding snow and ice but failed to show that. Sounds like my videos have helped! Especially on the backwards choke! Also put some new wax on that pull cord, it will last a lot longer..... Mine shows no wear at all (0:
Thanks Dan, the water stayed cool, started fist pull. Thanks, my cord came waxed as with the spare, the new one wasn’t though. I was tempted to canabalise into an electric and like the look of the Hangkai 4HP electric I found on Aliexpress but Ill stick to the gas for now.
I was getting ready to do a 25 hour run time review. When I removed the cover to pre-inspect the motor, one of the fuel lines broke off. I will definitely add in a recommendation to change the fuel lines at the time of purchase. It did spew gas around until I removed the cap to relieve pressure.. Could be a serious fire risk if there had been any spark around. I'll cover this in my next video post.
Ran Sue : Fuel lines from Amazon. Here’s the link. HIFROM Replace 4-Feet Fuel Line Hose Tube (4 Size) I.D. x O.D. 3/32" x 3/16" 1/8" x 3/16" 1/8" x 1/4" 0.080" x 0.140" for Poulan Craftman Chainsaw String Trimmer Blower www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSP00U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z5ebFbNK2W8W3
To pull out the starter rope for maintenance, just pull it out and tie a loose removable knot in the rope near the starter housing. Also although it has a water pump, this machine is actually air cooled. The water pump only cools the exhaust tuner. It won’t harm the engine to run it without water pumping but it will melt the cowling and stuff
@@dannyt5305 I ordered it, an email was sent from eBay saying the product shipped. Then I got an email from the seller saying his eBay account is under review. It wasn't supposed to be delivered yet, but after talking with some people it's become apparent it was a scam. I was weary about it when buying, I figured I'd take the $16 gamble.
Ha, ha... We'll see? It will be late spring when I give it a try. I will post a video of the event! I take it up stream on a local river and will wait until the spring floods recede. Stay tuned 😬
To find a source to purchase search eBay but only search the item as: outboard motor 3.6 hp Here is a link that will also give you a sample of one available on eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/3-6-HP-Outboard-Motor-Engine-Water-Cooling-Boat-Canoe-Marine-2-stroke-Engine-USA/253293218952?hash=item3af973cc88:g:6CYAAOSwF6dZd3~b
Never run an outboard without the prop. It needs the friction of the prop or you will damage the motor. Also never tune your engine without the prop and you need to be underway.
I bought this Hankai 3.5hp last year on Ebay but hard to use. It was hard to staring up. It took me a lot times to get starting but when I shut of the engine and try starting again it won't start. Had to try so many times when lucking it started but most the times it won't. I hate to use it. Any suggestion. I might throw in the trash. It was brand new motor. It cheap but it not good.
Not sure how to help. If you did everything correctly.... 35:1 oil fuel mix. Make sure you turn the choke to "OFF" and then turn the throttle handle about 1/2 inch toward higher run. Mine starts every time on second or third pull of the starter cord. Also, did you put gear oil in the bottom, near the propeller? (watch my other video's to see what I am talking about). Good luck, hope this helped.
Buy a used tohatsu or nissan 2.5 3.5 hp 2 stroke. Ive owned many some of which were blue and from the 80's that ran extremely well and reliably. Thats the best $200 solution to your problem
My state does have non ethanol gas so I have no choice but to purchase already mixed non ethanol 50:1 fuel on line. Can I still do the break in with that cause the next already mix available is a 20:1
It's very important to use the higher amount of oil in the fuel during break-in. So don't use the 50:1 during break-in. Regarding the fuel, I discovered that I have been using ethanol gas all along. I get the highest grade fuel though. So I would recommend getting the most expensive gas at the pump, then break the motor in with the correct fuel / Oil mix and mix it yourself. So far the only problem I had which probably was due to ethanol in my gas too was one of the fuel lines rotted out. That's a cheap and easy replacement that you could even do right away. Or start out with the 20:1 mix. Just know that even the 35:1 mix (or was it 30:1?) will result in excess oil coming out the exhaust port. But once break in is done, the 50:1 mix will run clean. Have fun with the motor! Check out the other video's I've done, I will keep posting as things happen. So far nothing major, but making some easy changes that I have covered in the video's might help you along the way. Thanks for watching!
You said you paid less than $200? That's amazing! That is about a quarter of the price of more mainstream brands of similar rated power. Very tempting to give it a try.
The block of the motor seems very solid to me. Some of the exterior parts are questionable, but I've replaced some of those things. I've mentioned before that I do like the motor and it continues to run just fine. The price does seem to fluctuate, so if you keep your eye open, I bet you kind find a good deal too. I did buy mine between Christmas and New Years Day. Maybe it was a slow time? I've gotten more than $200 in fun with it for sure!
Oh, while you got it running, you could cruise over to the neighbors, 3 houses down, your brother is in his boat, but needs a tow back to the main yard. The neighborhood kids are complying he is disturbing their snorkel class in the snow. Brahaha! All these small 2 cycle motor have their quirks, but when broke in, they are great. I had a 7 hp Eska back in 1973, it ran good and powerfull. Enjoyed it very much, especially after I got the bugs worked out. Thanks for sharing this video.
Thanks for watching. I hope to take it on a full day (downstream journey) passing by a little cabin my parents had along the Tippecanoe River. Just waiting for water levels to return to normal! It'll be about a 20 mile trip, so it should be a good test of the motor now that it is broken-in. Speaking of the "snow snorkel class", I remember taking an old V bottom boat of my dads out in the winter when there was a thin sheet of ice extending out on the river about 10 feet. I went slow, pretending the boat was an ice breaker and chipped away at the ice. It was an old two cycle motor on it.... Wish I still had it! But I wouldn't repeat the bit of foolishness again! …...What were my parents thinking :0-(
Yes, I've been advised on that. Took some preventative action and will check out the gear lube later this winter before going out in the spring. Thanks for your expertise and noting the issue.
Omg. I saw all the reviews on this motor and I think I'm gonna return it before it's first use. You have basically rebuilt and modified the whole motor cause I see a defective POS.
I wouldn't day that I've rebuilt the entire motor, but the fuel lines are junk. The pull cord is thin, but bee was corrected that. And I recommend replacing the spark plug. I'll see how it holds up this summer for season two. I hope you can get a refund of you think it's your best option.
Then my efforts were worthwhile! I’m just documenting my journey and hope it gave you some valuable information 👍 Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
In hindsight, the 4 stroke would have been a better choice overall. I chose 2 stroke so I could lay it sideways to transport….. Thanks for watching and commenting
Mr. Raab I’m glad you found the review useful. Although I am very happy with the motor, I understand you not wanting to take the risk or messing with it. For me it’s an adventure! Thanks again for watching.
Hey boiler Dan thanks for your videos they've been a help ps I'm a subscriber but i got a question though. I got mine running in a bucket but it's not putting any water through the cooling system I don't know how long it's supposed to take it for that to happen cuz I don't want my motor to get too hot. It's running for like 5 minutes and didn't do anything figured it would have started cycling water through.
Very important: keep cool water running in the bucket! I kept dumping in snow! Better yet, break it in on your boat in the water. You must rev the motor enough for the clutch to engage. That may require almost full throttle! The throttle works on centrifugal force. If no water is coming out, you’re not cooling the motor. The clutch spring in these is too strong. I replaced mine and that helped a lot. You could even remove the spring during break in.... but realize that the propeller will always turn, so I wouldn’t do that all the time. Here’s a link to the video that mentions the spring. I ended up using the one from Menards, not the one I mention from Home Depot. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G4qLw14lf9k.html Regarding clutch replacement see the below two videos: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H4mPGuEKnKI.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qu9OjXbMutA.html And after the spring replacement ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LdtITFx6N-Q.html Let me know if that’s not clear and I’ll try to help.... But know that if the propeller isn’t turning and no water is coming out, you’re not cooling the motor.
@@BoilerDan1 I see what you mean I ran it almost full throttle and it was spitting water out like it should. I might replace the spring like you mentioned I'll have to check your videos out on that. Seriously man thanks a lot I appreciate it.
@@nicholasdupuis5721 It almost has idle and full speed and that’s it 😂. Seriously though, you need to run it fast enough to get the water spitting out. Just keep changing the speed. Even if you slow to an idle for 1 minute, then speed it back up enough to keep that clutch engaged! I think you’re understanding now... it does have to go fast as part of the break in process. Thanks for watching 👍👍
This motor is 700 bucks cheaper then the closest brand name motor if you go out here and there its the perfect motor if you boat alot then your better off with a suzuki .i bought this for my sea eagle 10ft inflatable.and i dont beat on it and it has worked perfectly fine. rule one ditch that chinese spark plug for a ngk or champion. .number 2 wax the pull start string but the most important thing is to break in the motor dont go full throttle for the first few hours and change the crap fuel lines with the tygon yellow hose.
Thanks for the review, very informative, Im gonna add my comments here as this seems the best resource regarding this engine on the net. Like a 60’s era car this engine is very simple so if you have any mechanical inclination your gonna be able to deal with it. Its a 200$ motor where as something high quality is gonna be a minimum of 4x more expensive so im not gonna criticize its crudeness, for 700$ im gonna deal with it. The engine is listed as water cooled but its really not sure there is any circulation through the block, the thing is a loud screamer like a fully air cooled. The water cooling might just be injected to cool the exhaust. There seems to be some sort of inertial transmission where at a certain rev a gear engages that will turn the prop and engage the water pump. This presents difficulty at docking as you have no steering or propulsion at low power. Also not sure the type of transmission or clutch geared or friction. Gets very low propulsion at anything less than full power. I have this on a dinghy i transit to my sailboat on a mooring. I have to deal with wind currents and chop, at full power the engine moves the boat well but at anything less its nowhere near good enough. The power curve is a hockey stick at 90% power.
Nice review. The transition you mentioned is inertia. There have been some comments on mine making metallic noise. Actually I discovered that the quick fasteners that I use on the metal side poles have the metal hinge vibrating on the metal pole causing that noise on the video. That being said, you can hear the clutch as it is partially engaged at slower speeds. The water pump system is also very simple, no gears, it just fits over the square shaft leading to the gears for the propeller. I'm planning on a video this fall of how to disassemble that area an replace the pump wheel. Not that it's needed, I'm just having fun with the motor. And yes, full speed or idle are about your only options with it. Thanks for responding.
