*This is exactly what I needed for trimming the edge of oak boards **MyBest.Tools** I also used the disk to round edges while building an oak - walnut cabinet.*
Great video! I was thinking about buying this sander for polishing the plastic bobbins I use when making guitar pickups but was worried I wouldn’t be able to change belts fast enough to make it worth upgrading from hand sanding. I’ll definitely do this mod!
I'm liking that setup. I'd bet you could drill a hole in the case to secure it to a bench with a bolt and lesson any chance of the clamp failing to hold the entire machine. Great video!
its amazing to me the number of people that dont understand that the black knob is the tracking adjustment. the whole part that holds the tracking adjustment wheel is movable and spring loaded. you move that forward which releases the belt tension!!!! change the belt and release and belt is retensioned!!! they come tight and you may have to loosen the bolt and lock nut to get ti to move freeley
Laying the sander down on its back has really made it a lot easier to sharpen a knife and not to mention much better results You see the angle you’re holding much better With this method. Well done
When you start to see the burr, what do you do next? I have the same setup as you. Sharpen axes. I see the burr forming and can feel it but not sure the next step.
I like to sharpen one side till I see a light bur, then flip the blade on the other side and repeat, effectively grinding off the previous bur. Do that about three times for each side, and change to a higher grit belt. Some high grit "polishing" belts are definitely worth the investment. (Ebay has a pack of 15 for like $8) I usually sharpen by using the slack of my belt, just depends on what you like. I use a 120, then 600, then 800, then 1000. As you sharpen you should check the blade for the bur by running your finger nails over it, if it catches it means the bur is on that side. Once you get done with the 1000 grit or higher do a very light pass on the belt on both sides of the blade to reset the bur in a sense. After that I use a polishing wheel in a drill press to polish the edge, pretty much a faster strop block. Boom, mirror shaving edge. This method is SOOOO much faster than the traditional stone way if you're sharpening a sword or hard steel. Does take some practice, but if you're just using it on axes its a breeze.
Alright so I like the idea, I have a HF 1x30, made my first knife on it and noticed the same rattling sound I heard on yours. Assuming it’s the vibration from the platen… I tried everything to fix it, smoothed out the drive wheel, upgraded belts, put a ceramic glass insert over the existing platen…. Anyone out there have any ideas on how to stop it?
Bruh, your table is at your knees....of course you gotta bend over to use it, raise your work space up to just above your waist, you'd be surprised how much it helps
I took apart a HF 1x30 belt sander cleaned and putting back together. Put new 1x30 belt back on and the belt was a bit tight..the motor hums and wont spin the belt. What will fix this please.
I'm more of a free hand kinda guy but if you plan on using a jig for bevels I'd definitely recommend putting the plate back on so you have something to rest the jig on.
@@LawnMowerProductions I'm also wondering about the bevel jig because I don't trust my ability to maintain the correct angle. If you put the plate back and use the sander as you've demonstrated won't the jig be upside down?
I was thinking about that, you could probably weld a jig holder to the piece of metal where the belt is and slap on a jig to make it similar to a wetstone. Like a wedge thing.
Lawn Mower Productions yea that's similar to what came to my mind. Attach to the platen and have a wedge that surrounds the belt. It could be c shaped but hangs just a fuzz over the belt at whatever angle you needed. A mag switch on the bottom may be strong enough to hold it up then it could be removable or interchangeable.....
Yes, I would agree that is a better way to grind but with that method you wouldn't be able to get perfect grind lines that you can get using a grinding jig, in other words you wouldn't be able to use a grinding jig so therefore your knife bevels could be a bit amateurish, I notice you did'nt really show the bevels that you did??
grinding a blade with the belt coming into the blade is asking for trouble. A) its dangerous AF if the blade happens to bite into the belt your knife making days will most likely be over ..B) its not the correct direction for stock removal as it erodes the apex faster than "drawn" dose .. C) it dos not take much effort to step to the other side of the sander and draw the blade right.... I mean to each his own and all but new knife makers are going to get very bad habits if the techniques you display are considered proper . not to mention a trip to the ER
Fuck dude thanks this help alot I'm going to try it I been trying to get a good bevel on knife and I pretty much fuck it up by hand and stretching it up but I still want to finish but hopefully this will work 🤘🏼
@@osbaldohernandez9174 Harbor freight ones kinda trash ngl, better luck on ebay for half the price. I haven't found a leather belt so i just flip a really used 1000 grit one around and put the compound on that, works a charm.
