Thanks so much for the video. Very clear. It's still black Friday, today's the last day. I'm piecing together a vacuum system to degass rubber and epoxies. Found a HEWG aluminum pot with 1/4" walls. And this is the pump I saw used in a video for making such a degassing chamber.
No problem Kent! I think I've seen folks using their pressure pot for degassing. You might look into one as another option. With a 20% off coupon, it could be had for about $80. Good luck, G. www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-gallon-pressure-paint-tank-66839.html
Thank you for the excellent review. It makes me feel I made the right decision. I bought one of these a few days ago and it seems to be a very good and well built pump. I will use to pull a vacuum on a Grand Caravan's system after I replace the extremely leaky condenser.
Lockemeister No problem. I agree, especially for what I paid, it seems to be well built. Since mine worked so well on a home system, I think you will have no problems using it for auto! Good luck with your fix, G.
Thanks for the review. I want to use this for a new installation Mini-split heat pump with R-410A. It has 1/4" & 3/8" tubing and fitting. Do you think it will work in my situation? Do I need fitting adapters? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
+Richard Hoepfner Richard, the pump would hook directly to a gauge set so that part should work. As for the mini-split system, I'm not too sure but you might need a set of adapters to hook the gauges to it. Good luck, G.
Great video, I learned alot from it as I will be using mine this weekend for the first time but I mainly wanted to comment on how much you sound just like Matthew McConaughey ! Lol, good stuff
Thanks! Yeah, I get that from time to time. You never know- I might actually be Matthew in disguise. After all, you never see my face in my videos! LOL.. Take care, G. I mean M.
Thanks for the demonstration! If you run the pump with the cap on the inlet port, does it harm the pump in any way? Or does it just maintain the vacuum and run as normal?
Thanks for the review. I just tried this pump ,hooked the HF manifold gauge to it, vacuum drops down to -29 before I even hook it up to the vehicle but only 10 or so seconds later it goes to zero. It doesn't hold vacuum. Is it supposed to hold vacuum? Wanted to make sure I'm not losing vacuum before hooking up to the truck to do a full deep vacuum.
If you're only hooking it up to the gauge set- it will vacuum out the manifold, lines, and gauge very quickly. If you turn it off it will bleed out to zero. You have to get things hooked up to the vehicle, open up both the low and high side valves and turn on the pump. Let it vacuum out the system and then turn off both valves and then shut off the pump. At that point, let it dwell to make sure you don't loose any vacuum. Past that, you would hook up your refrigerant, crack the supply line at the manifold to bleed out any air, then open the valve to introduce the refrigerant into the system. Watch other videos if you're unsure on how to charge the system. Hope this helps and good luck, G.
These would typically be used with AC manifold gauges. The type used would depend on the application. You can buy just the hoses. I guess it would depend on your use. Hope this helps, G.
Rickshaw Jack Thanks! It certainly worked for the task at hand. I've seen folks use pumps to draw a large volume in a container, then open a valve to form holster using kydex on a vacuum table. Pretty cool stuff. I've not seen anything about degassing epoxies but it sounds equally cool. I know little of nothing about using epoxies. G.
Sirus Cool video Sirus. I really liked the way he found justification to purchase a pump...lol. I've actually watched some of his stuff before. He's very talented. Thanks for the link! G.
Can't say for sure. I looked at my manual and the red is the fill port. The black is the vent. This video is old so things may be different now. Good luck, G.
Is this pump supposed to be able to hold a vacuum once turned off? When I turn mine off I can here subtle clicks indicative of a slow leak. Within about a minute nearly all of the vacuum pressure has left.
I might (unfortunately) need one of these... My AC is 100% fully charged... but the damn clutch on my AC compressor has gone bad. Basically a 20 dollar part (which I am unable to locate, those things don't seem to be made with the user in mind) going bad means I have to have my system drained, buy a new compressor for 300, buy a new dryer for however much, buy this vacuum pump for 120, make sure the system is all nice and clean/vacuumed, and then get it recharged for say 50-100. I don't know how much, last time I did it I wasn't living in this state and I paid 110 to get a full vacuum/charge of the system by someone I really trusted. Might be more or less here, not sure. Anyways I'm looking at 500 bucks because of it and I'm not a happy boy, not to mention it's getting to be about 90 in the shade here in Florida.
Jesse Crandle Yeah, that's a tough one Jesse! You seem to need a thief to vent your system for you like I had...lol. Then you could save some costs with the repair. I've seen clutches that would not engage, but were technically OK. You might try turning on the AC and if the clutch doesn't engage, tap it with a handle of a screwdriver to see if it then does. If it does, take the vehicle to the car wash and wash the clutch. If it doesn't engage, make sure the clutch is getting 12v at the connection. If not, the low pressure switch may be blocking the voltage- meaning you're actually low on refrigerant- or possibly have a bad LP switch. If you get voltage to the clutch and tapping doesn't work- the coil for the clutch is probably bad- like you say. Just trying to give you something to try before shelling out for a repair. Good luck, G.
+Scott S. No problem Scott! I don't know anything about what you're trying to do, but if all you need is for it to pull a vacuum- I see no reason it wouldn't work. Good luck with your project, G.
Hey! Thanks for posting this video! Hypothetically....like, I'm not stupid enough to do this, obviously, but hypothetically, if I put a small amount of oil in the top black port marked "AIR" thinking it was the oil port - how bad would that be?
@@rickjames6948 NO, mineral oil has no fragrance etc... Just use plain mineral oil and make sure you change it after every use. Mineral oil use to be used in auto ac compressors when they used R-12 refrigerant
Dave Grohl No doubt Dave...lol. This is a different property though. There was a foreclosure next door as we were getting ours ready for a tenant. What these folks will do is look for foreclosures on the web and then send a scout to look for copper during the day. They look like interested purchasers checking out the place and nobody thinks twice about it. Then after they confirm it's there, they will come later in the night and take it. They got a two for one that night since they saw ours was vacant. After both properties were stripped, I actually saw the scoping in real-time the following week. A lady checked out the foreclosure, but her car wouldn't start so she walked off down the street. I looked in the car and saw a map with circles all over it. By some of them were check marks, and others had slashes through them. I guess even the thieves are in competition with each other...lol. G.
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I'm not sure- but probably nothing. I would remove the cap, drain it all out, then fill it again. Then test it for use. For all I know, the spaces are all connected together in some way anyway. Good luck, G.
Just FYI, the 2 parts are connected anyway. The worst thing that might happen is there might be a little oil residue that gets blown out when you first turn it on. It won't do any damage.
@ghostses I am a bit confused with how the pump works. I get that the pump is pulling gas out of the enclosed space... but where does that gas then go? There is no outlet valve from the pump is there?
Alek, there is an outlet. On this pump, it's the black vent on the front of it. That's where everything escapes. I many be incorrect, but I believe I used to use one years ago that vented through the handle. Hope this helps, G.
***** yes this helps. Is the vent connectable to a line? I am pumping air out of a really small reaction chamber and I want to make sure the air isn't generally dispersed throughout the room. Can the exhaust be contained? (I have a very similar model to the one you used in this video)
Alek, you might be able to remove the vent and install a fitting to connect a line to- but I'm not sure. If you're trying to contain the exhaust, I would imagine you would need a large reservoir so the pump would could still pull a vacuum from your chamber. If it's too small, it might cancel out the pump. I really have no idea what you're trying to accomplish, so take my comments with a grain of salt. Good luck, G.
Yellow Jacket makes a 50' hose that you can use to put the pump possibly outside or far enough away. May be a little easier then piping the exhaust out of the space.
There was close to a tablespoon of water that was separate in the oil after the first vehicle AC system I worked on. That same system was already cooling down to 48 F and then down into the upper 30s after the Drawdown.
also make sure you pump down to 500 microns, i recommend 380 or around there to make sure all the moisture is out of the system, or you will have a high head pressure, and acid will form in the refrigerant.
Mine is continuously smoking also. I thought it would stop after a little while but it just keeps going. Does anyone know a fix for this? I have 1 more day that I can still return it and am thinking that might be a good idea…
I don't use it all that often but It will mist some while it's working, but it's not burning. Not sure if there's something wrong with yours, but you might consider an exchange for good measure. Good luck, G.
It only took a few minutes to pull down. I left it for a couple of hours past that to pull any moisture out. I don't recall the tonnage of the unit, but it had about 25" of line set. G.
Your not having a lot of luck at the moment are you. I was wondering what you needed it for then I see it was for regassing ac not water systems. Everyone seems to replace stolen copper with plastic now (water), the pipe I don't have a problem with but the connectors I just don't trust them.
Sirus Not really Sirus. I'm hoping it will turn better soon. Yeah, it was for ac. I'm kind of with you on changing out to anything other than copper. Copper does take a little skill to sweat or braze, but nothing a little practice can't master. PEX seems to be all the rage now, but I've never worked with it and stick with what I know has little problems. I still have a bad taste from homes that were plumbed with polybutylene pipes. If you looked at it wrong, it would crack right apart. G.
+Ben Boudreau It does Ben...lol. I remember years ago trying to fix leaks and it would immediately crack nearby the repair I was making. You just had to keep chasing the breaks to repair it, and then turn your head quickly so it wouldn't keep taunting you...lol. It truely was some horrible stuff for sure. Take care, G.
Todd Petersen Todd, if you mean the oily smokey mist- mine does, but only for a few seconds after starting it up. After it starts to pull the vacuum, it stops. Hope this helps! Good luck, G.
hmm thanks for the reply mine only smokes when i pull vacuum and doesnt when its.. It gets very misty and this is not good to breath.. I may have to look into a oilless vacuum pump.
Todd Petersen That's interesting Todd. I've only used it once but that was my experience. You might try one out and return if you're not satisfied, or find an oi-less like you mentioned. Either way, good luck! G.
Love2boat92 LOL, no it's a different house all together. They are everywhere I agree. They get a few bucks of my copper and it cost me hundreds to repair the damage. That's what really ticks me off. G.
You never tested if this cheap pump ACTUALLY pulls to 25 microns. Hooking up a micron gauge can verify. The analog gauges don't give you enough resolution to see how deep of a vacuum you're actually pulling.
Perhaps if I had a micron gauge I might've done that. As it stands- it worked great for me and the system is still working fine after all these years. Take care, G.
@@ghostses The point is, you misrepresented this as an objective test of this pump using a meaningless gauge reading. In reality it was just your opinion. And it mislead people into thinking they can rely on their analog gauge for vacuum efficiency. Stating that doesn't matter because it "works great" for you is disingenuous in light of your presentation. If you can't pull 200-500 microns, you can ruin an AC system over the long haul by leaving moisture in the system. That gauge cannot even detect the difference between 500 microns and 5000!
@@FisherCatProductions You are right. But if you’re that concerned, you’d need a digital vacuum gauge of $200 and if you’re investing that much, why not get a better pump for$300? That way you have a better evacuation system. What he showed is for a DIY project that gets the job done on an old vehicle that you’re trying to get through the summer in..
@@joep4143 Well, let's take that a step further. If you are talking about doing it on the cheap, you might as well just buy the least expensive brand of pump you can find and pray. Because this "review" does nothing to surmise that the HF unit will pull enough vacuum to do even sloppy AC work. The gauge used in the "test"gives a result that is completely meaningless.
Why would they sell it without motor oil that is just stupid. Think about it, no one read instructions because they just state the obvious. So, no oil would yield a massive amount of returns so do the math.
