We show you our normal tools engine swap on a Mitsubishi 25-30 hp tractor. We have traded the motor out with a harbor freight engine. Without adapters made. No tools required that most handy people wouldnt have.
Been thinking about this for a long time! Duromax makes a 440cc engine really cheap and electric start. Pull start is a great backup. Buddy's got a 2 cylinder Mitsubishi this would be great for!! I thought the same thing remove the piston and keep ALL functions of the tractor. GREAT JOB!
Now that’s what my late father in law would say is one heck of a humdinger!!! I am amazed and that is probably the most brilliant idea I’ve seen in a long time. Thanks for letting us in on idea.
If you ever wanna re do this. Try pulling the motor and going to chain drive. Also get a Wildcat 460 off of EC Carburetors. Its Basically a bored and stroked gx390 with a reinforced block. They run usually less than $400.
I think u will be glad u did. But I would go with chain drive with it to take the torque. But should give you the upper gears and a harder turning pto. I wish u luck on it. Love to see how urs turns out
yes you have to keep the crank lubricated. As well to that depending on tractor from my research some must still have the electric oil pump still hooked up to keep pressure and to float the bearings some have a manual style and if the motor is turning then the oil pump is pumping.
@@mikeaze423 There will be no pressure on the crankshaft, you could probably get by with greasing it. A good grade of grease, at the low RPMs it would turn, would last a long time. There is also no heat on the crankshaft. One could drill holes in the main caps for grease fittings. There would be no need for more than 6 bolts on the pan as it would become a dust cover.
Hello. Really good job! I have one old french tractor that i'd like to modify either. You kept everything and put the belt on the crank of the old motor? On the ventilator or something like that?
Yeah I put the belt on the main crack output shaft of the engine. I used the alternator for a tensioner. Its not bad. The steel plate really helped stiffen everything up. Ate some belts before that with the angle iron for the engine supports.
@@poppysfarm6774 ok! Thanks a lot! I'll think about that then. Because i don't need the original horse power as i want to carry trailers or cut wood. The only problem will be the room for the new engine.
That is a novel idea but I bet you are losing at least 3 of the motors 13 HP by running it thru the old motor. I think that is a fair trade off for all of the headaches you have eliminated. I have two old 8n Fords that are getting pretty undependable. I also have access to a 23 HP Briggs motor off of a zero turn mower. I believe I could eliminate the head, pistons, rods, valves and starter from the old ford motor. The old block then remains part of the frame and a drive shaft from the new motor to the tractor. I think I could take a flat plate and bolt where the head had been to make a motor mount. Damn I got to go get that old ford into the shop!!!
Hey how are you Im looking to have to do the same thing to my sheneu tractor they want 1500 .00 for a injector pump I have a 15 hp engine to put on it but my question is this You said you took the pistons out How did you solve the oil issues With the piston and connecting rod out does your oil pump still keep the main bearings lubed Or did you cut the connection rods and put the connecting caps back on to help with the oiling
I filled the engine back with oil and the oil pump was a mechanical one running off the crank. Some of these classic tractor parts can be war prices. And when u put the valve cover back on. First time I put a plate at the top and it built up pressure and blew the seal.
Also have the original alternator as the trencher as well it still works too. So any electronics that may have been there like charging the battery and stuff is all still hooked up. Also can crank the engine and it will still start the harbor freight motor with the started on the original engine.
@@poppysfarm6774 OK like I said I have a 4 wheel drive shenniu I can not afford the injector pump for it I already have the little engine like yours I don't do plowing or anything like that but I need it to keep my drive way fixed and pull some small trees when I cut them down I was trying to figure out how to do it my engine hold the tractor to gather and I don't have welder lol Did you gut the whole engine valves ,cam rod or just took the Pistons out Thank you so much for the help sir
i understand cheap fixes i can respect not having the money to fix them old engines . but if i can ask why not use a small 4 cylinder car engine ? parts would be easy to get and you would have more horse power and durability .
Didnt use a car engine bc the old run of the mill cheap 4 cylinder would run maybe 800 to 1k and I did the whole build for less than that. Agree it would be better but making due with what was cheap and available. And cheap to replace when the time comes something goes wrong.
Great video but it seems like a great deal of work for a rube goldberg setup.. Rebuilding the engine would be a better solution. Heck you took out the pistons that is 1/2 the job of the rebuild. Hone the cylinder, get the valve lash right, replace the rings (once you measure the rings to 1/1000 you can certainly get replacement rings for very little) and you are done. If you are patient and careful you can pick up everything you need for that tractor, you just have to source them right. That mickey mouse engine mounting on that predator, that is going to be a problem.
Well try I could have but parts are way to high. This keeps the tractor going for less money. Just the carb was 400 thats the new engine cost. The rebuild would have been almost 1400 in parts the cost would have been more than the old tractor was worth. So may seem like alot to do but whole project costed less than one part for the rebuild. The head gasket was even almost 200.
