Damn it... Every new episode gets me needlessly falling more and more in love with a tool I don't need. Even if i can't get one i'm excited to see your vision of the Baliscissors slowly become reality.
Your “sigh” by itself is a signature of the channel LOL. Perhaps merch showing a graphic with just “sigh” bubble with a broken mill will be perfect for fans of your channel!
I believe that the hardness you achieve right now is about right. The minimum requirement for Solinger siccors ist 52 HRC for small and 55 for large ones. And while it says minimum requirement and harder should not be a problem you need to ceep in mind as the are balisong siccors one will occasionally drop them and then if they are hardened to much the siccors could break. Hope you are soon ready for production... Can't wait to one
I'm not sure I'm a huge fan, but it's growing on me. I think the benefit of a perfectly balanced baliscissor outweighs the slightly less than traditional look.
I've been following this project for a long time and I really can't wait to buy a couple of these. I normally wouldn't comment on someone else's prototyping process, but I can see an assumption affecting iteration, so I'm going to butt in. I desperately don't want to influence the development process so I'll keep it succinct and enigmatic. Scissors don't cut because they're sharp, they cut because they're tight. It's a shearing action, not a cutting one. Grab a cheap pair of fiskars scissors and have a close look at the blades. Keep going. When you're done, I'll be in the line to buy a couple.
Great work. I've enjoyed following along this journey, successes and failures alike. You are developing some mad skilz and its fun to watch in "real time" lol. Keep it up!!
Letting your material come up to temperature at the same time as the heat treat oven is a good idea. For some steels doing that will refine the grain structure, which makes your blades stronger.
the new bevel looks great! Im a manual machine guy, but Id do the rough slotting prior to heat treating. then do your finished hole sizes. there is a good chance that ive missed something in your order of operations though.
The sideways hard finishing pass could be a square block to hold the blade. Then you could use different angle wedges under it to give it the blade angle you desire. Just a thought
If you fill your stainless pouch up with argon before you seal it, you'll get no decarburization on your blades. Which may or may not be relevant, depending on your methodology. Hope this proves useful. I really enjoy watching the progression of this series. Also, I want a pair of these when you get it all sorted out. Cheers.
Nice. You can still do several blades at once, but perhaps with narrow stock and only slotting between them? This still serves the goal of minimizing stock cuts and fixture setups, and might be as materials cost effective as the approach you're currently taking. In other words, lengthwise instead of side by side. And you could actually get them overlapping a bit and still do all of it with an adaptive clear and not need to slot. The Tormach isn't ideal for that since the accelerations are slow, but it shouldn't be too bad.
When you temper the blades have two pieces of angle iron and 2 screws when you have it in the kiln have two temper cicles after the first one you adjust the screws so the bend is at the right angle and do another temper cicle It works very well with carbon steel and vanadium high steels
Here is some tips. Be careful when hard milling the refined bevels on your heat treated blade. Also if you want to be able to put a bend in the blades you can do it before the heat treat by heating up the blade and bending it over a mould. Then clamp the blade to the mould and put them in the heat treat together which will male the bend permenant. If you are worried about the mould becoming a heat sync then you can make it out of fire brick.
What about making a square fixture and putting it up on angled blocks? You can get em in a set and it'd just be a matter of swapping the blocks to get a different angle and the blocks can be used in a million other ways
My friend, always keen to see the updates on the Bali-Scissors super stoked on the unique design this shit is fire! I’m sure plenty of others are keen as to send you some money for these in the future, keep up the determination on making a product that will always have demand much appreciated. You think you can make left handed scissors for people like me?
You need a rotary 4th axis. Then you can side mill whatever angle you want. You could also do a multiple sided pallet with a blade on each side. As far as why you use air with hard milling, hard milling generates a lot of heat, which carbide endmills can take, but what they can't take is sudden changes in temperature. If you use coolant, the shock of the cold coolant on the hot endmill can cause cracks and chips in the carbide and the coating.
This has probably been suggested to you already, but when heat treating, put a piece of paper or charcoal inside the stainless sheet envelopes together with the blade. It will burn and consume the rest of the oxygen inside the pocket and prevent even more oxidation.
Really interesting videos man. Regarding hard milling the blades in a vertical orientation, would it make sense to make a jig block with an base that was a bolt on wedge? That way you could just make a new base to change the bevel angle which would be a little easier than making a whole new jig block.
