Just a budget shrinker-stretcher...this one came with both dies (one set to shrink, one to stretch). If I had more room, I'd get a foot operated one, but this did the deed. www.amazon.com/dp/B015U5A2HU
It's work, but doable...luckily the 40s are pretty simple body-wise. Happy to have mine back on the road, now to catch up on the video editing - more to come soon. Needed to get all the paint work done before the cold set back in!
It’s important to call these a “40”. The “FJ” is the thing they made in the 2000s. THIS is a legend! 💪🏼 Great work, I was almost SURE you were a body guy or welder, etc.
They're worn blades taken off of a larger-sized wood chipper if I recall - works out well as they're hardened, and they have a square side as well as a narrow/tapered side.
Wow amazing work and great overview of techniques etc…. Any frame work needed? My tub has some rust repair I’ve been slowly been addressing and procrastinating on… but the rusty frame makes me wonder if my efforts are worth it…. I figure if I can just keep it alive and loved then I’ve done my job, not investing a slew of money to do a proper resto.
Appreciate it...mine did need work on the frame on the rear where the "knee" is on both sides, and I needed to redo the frame tails near the rear bumper. It was reworked once before around '88 to replace the rear bumper once, and it was due again...salt is hard on them up here in WI. I decided to box in the rear tails as well to add some support. The frame work goes a little faster than the bodywork, if you've got access. There's some of the frame info on a thread on the IH8Mud forums, it was a bit cold during winter to film the frame repairs, but there are at least some photos: bit.ly/3owiaM2
I used a mix of an old blasting cabinet from Craigslist for small parts, and just a portable gun and a bucket for the bigger stuff. It was just a cheapie off of Amazon - took up a little less room in the garage than a canister one.
I ended up using 18ga to match the original flange thickness. They had a step/lap joint before the curve to join the straight run and the rear, so using 18ga let it tuck back in the way it should.
