Kevin you are my go to Harley engine builder. When I do all of the things I've learned from you I will absolutely buy parts from you! And everyone else should too. No free rides in life guys!
Just installed S&S cam plate and TC3 oil pump as part of the VH 575 cam install in my 2015 FLSTF, very good quality components from S&S and definitely should be a part of any engine build
Uhm, you may want to recant that statement. Most motorcycles of every brand and make require upgrades when it comes to performance enhancement. You can ride most brands and makes without having to upgrade the performance if you so choose.
Back around the late eighties you bought the bike and an optional $3000 stroker mod. Of course the big bikes ran from around $8600 -$13ish thousand. My '90 heritage Softail classic new was $11,900 in stock form. I kept it stock except for removing the jumper wire on the tank mounted headlight switch so headlight wouldn't come on when the bike was started up and could either switch the headlight on manually or leave it off and just run the passing lights
@@lawnboyfromhell Lol. Not true.. not at all…. First of all. It’s a rare occurrence that there are issues.. every manufacturer has issues.. harley is very reliable .. people selling you products always sell the need
Topic Suggestion - A general guide on how a DIY guy should approach upgrades to their Twin Cam bike. What is the best, most reasonable category, hierarchy of components to upgrade .... First, Second, Third, etc.? And of course the reasoning behind choices.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. You have an art to also explain and teach in such detail, in a manner that can be understood by the average Joe with little to no experience. Thank you again!
Being an auto mechanic for 33 years, I understand a lot of what your saying. My 99 rk sat for about 2 years before I bought in Aug. 20. He never been in the engine so I see i have a lot of inspection to so. It has about 47k on it and I put about 1600 miles on since Aug. Thanks for the videos. I will be in touch when ordering parts.
Hey Kevin I'm going to order that s&s cam plate/oil pump from you in the near future. as a matter of fact it's the exact same one you're using in your video (2000 RG) I also appreciate all your labor in making these videos, I see you're in the shop by yourself a lot. Thanks for the great uploads
Just installed S&S plate and pump into my 19 FatBoy along with a 475 cam and S&S lifters and cuffs,also replaced the cam bearing in the case with the help of a Jims tool. The whole job took me about 3 hours, taking my time and triple checking my work as it's my first time working on a M8.
Stumbled across your channel Kevin and thoroughly enjoyed it thank you so much for spending time and preparation showing us what's right and what's wrong on the Harley engines
Great information Kevin. You do a good job of clearly going over the topic, in all cases. I have a '19 M8 softail(SE stage III). Cam chest is on the sheet for upgrades so is suspension and breaks, "GO FAST - STOP FAST"! If and when you do a brake video can you also include the +/- of SS braided lines? Thanks again.
Good video my friend I have a 103 heritage manufactured 2016 low mileage it does sound more noisy than others I have had I have had 5 harleys to date I changed the oil to a brand I like and that seemed to help regards Alan from the UK
Thank you so much for these videos, I just got done installing a pair of 509 s&s gear drive cams as well as the gear drive system in my 2002 88 twin cam. I have learned a lot from watching your videos, and I hope to continue learning from them! Quick question about my gear drive swap, rode about 40-50 miles after installing the new cams, had some misfires at idle here and there, and flat spots at wide open throttle, seems like its running very lean, I was planning to get it dyno tuned in a couple days. Is this a common issue you see when installing cams, having lean running issues?
Another great video Kevin. This is exactly the kind of information riders should be aware of before they upgrade their cams. I followed most of your advice when I had my S&S cams installed except for the oil pump. Wish I knew then what I know now.
Kevin. You are truly an inspiration. I have upgraded to the screaming Eagle hi flow billet cam plate and pump. Did it before I saw this video. Also put in se tappers and 4x se cam as I have esp warranty. What do you think of se cam plate and pump vs s&s? And do you think the fueling short plug in scavenge hole really helps or is just hype? Have a 2020 FLTRXS by the way.
Thank you sir. The SE plate is not a bad product at all. The case plug has been an intermittent issue since 2017 which we have been addressing since then on our builds.....not hype.
Awesome Vid', Kevin. Thanks , I will pass this one on to my HD friends, One rides a CVO Limited. Not sure of the year though. ( I'm a Yamaha rider..... lol). Anyway, aside from that, the tech name for those pumps is a Gerotor pump, a contraction of "generated rotor". (That primary pump you mentioned would be referred to as a "charge pump" in heavy industry.... keeps the big main pump's suction port at positive suction head, 5 psi., when supply and return volumes vary due to loading, etc., during operation. It's built into the main pump. Any leakage oil from the pump into the pump-casing goes back via case-drain to tank, (sump in your case). Sunstrand Sauer, Eaton Char-Lynn, etc., use the same configuration on a lot of their big hydraulic pumps). I'm thinking HD is doing the same when I see that dual- pump configuration you showed us ?? Yes ???? Stay Safe and ride on. W
I really enjoyed the Road Star... I had an "05." It made the V&H pipes talk! But, the nasty oile bank said I had to give it back, cause I couldn't make the payments...
What an awesome video. I’m considering a cam oil pump and cam plate for my 2019 HD SGS. HD does not offer a high performance oil pump or cam plate with their cam/piston upgrades. Bigger engine more performance seems to me requires a high performance oil pump and cam plate. I’m not sure why.
The stock pumps ability to scavenge is barely adequate to support a stock engine...and often, not enough at all. I'll be happy to answer your questions if youd like to shoot me an email kevin@protwin.com You have options far better than HD would be able to provide you.
I understood and experienced the design flaw of the OEM HDMC oil-cooler and ran JAGG on my TC's - currently I have a 107CI M8 - just wondering if the OEM (Stock) cooler is equal in design as the previous ones and if should consider replacing it with a JAGG cooler. On their website they mention Softail 2018 and up but the pics shown are all TC engines and I'm unsure if I can rip and replace the OEM one w/o much consideration. Thanks ahead and keep up the good work - your channel is very informative and content is most useful.
Great upgrades Thay are coming up with , you cover all things well I think so do what you know. Thanks for showing telling keep it up cause I am learning,see ya on the next video see ya bye.
Hey Kevin, I love your videos. You take me to school every time! Have you done a video comparing the top brands of cam plates? You've convinced me to upgrade my cam plate, oil pump setup on my '06 but find S&S pricey so would like to know about the other brands.
Great video Kevin! I am trying to cool down my 2015 RGS that has a tire shredder kit. I have already added an Ultracool fan assisted cooler and a K&P oil filter kit. I have been waffling on the install of the S&S cam plate and oil pump. Would the install of the S&S parts assist in helping cool the motor down?
It could help but I would promise that to you. It's quite possible, that it could be a tuning issue as well. Ignition too far advanced or running slightly lean. Target a 13.8 afr at idle, 14.1-14.3 at steady cruise, and 12.8-13.2 at heavy load or WOT. Oil shouldn't smell like fuel, and avg around 38 to 42 mpg. Also check for intake and exhaust leaks at various temps.
Kevin, not sure if the question has been asked. I’m going 95” in my 06 Road King. I was told upgrading to the 07-up hydraulic cam plate is a great option. Saw that 2 companies actually endorse this. What is your opinion?
I have a 2013 Deluxe 103, stage 1 (intake, Samson Cholo exhaust, PowerVision tune by Fuel Moto). I am considering cams, headwork and possible increase in compression. After watching this great video I realize I need to make other improvements while I’m in there. It is recommended to keep the idle at 1000 RPM so the engine maintains ample oil. Would installing your recommended cam chest and oil pump allow the idle to be reduced enough to get that classic Harley lope and maintain ample oiling? Thanks for any help!
So this dude doesn’t read comments or respond? My question is one he should have addressed by default in this informative video!!! It’s a big fkn deal!!! New Harleys idle to fast to sound like classic Harleys!
I just love learning about my bike,and I’ve learnt more from your vids than anywhere else ,you give me confidence to work on my machine and to make educated decisions instead of guessing,thanks again Kevin ,do you send parts to Australia?
Excellent very informative, i have a 2006 dyna, i have had to fix everything you talked about now you explain why things went wrong with my bike thanks, its nice to understand why. I was lucky on the chain tensioner the bearings went on the trans had it rebuilt, Heritage harley screwed that up than they sold to someone else, went back 1 year later, had to replace the transmission 2 years into it will see. I have 56k on the bike, so i like to head off problem if i can? Thanks again.
Kevin, do you recommend following the factory method for checking the engine oil level (check hot after idling 1-2 mins on jiffy stand)? I'd much prefer an accurate method to check it cold, taking into account approx 1/4 quart low reading at 70 degrees. Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse.
Actually, I've always been in the habit of checking it at the end of my ride when I get home. Then I know it's hot and exactly the level it will be while riding. Then, when I'm ready to roll i dont have to worry about it.
So glad I stumbled on your site Kevin. I subbed and like a bunch of your stuff. I keep things I like forever. I bought my 78.5 Shovel new in November of 78. Still have it. I started doing mostly my own work back in 79 when the HD dealer did the first 500 mile check and tried to screw me. I had been warned they would charge for fluid changes they did not do. I put clear nail polish on some screws etc. and proved that to be true. Today I mostly ride my 2006 FLHTCI 88 that my wife "allowed" for my 50th. Both are keepers! The twin cam was delivered in October of 05. I was interested in one of your vids you recommended the 06 and some other specific years to answer a question from a viewer. She has 30,000 this month. Regular oil changes at 2500. Full synth always. I had the cam tensioners checked at about 27,000. They were ok then. Im planning to replace them now. Maybe over the winter, if not sooner... as Ive become paranoid they will come apart. Ive been studying every vid I can find for a week now and yours have been the best. So Ive been looking at the kits from Feuling and S&S as well as considering Screaming Eagle parts. Seems like this vid convinced me on the S&S. But looks like considerably more money. Heres what I have. Stock motor. HD Heavy Breather and Samson 39" Long Tail slipons with the stock header pipes. No Oxy sensors. I used a Dyno Jet Power Commander to adjust to the new components rather than paying HD big bucks to flash the stock module. I intend to go with new cams and S&S adjustable push rods to avoid all the tank removal and rocker box disassembly. Im old but I ride hard. I live in Jersey so highway blasts are suicidal ... garbage trucks are going 80 with crap flying out... I dont beat my machines but I wind things up towards redline if I need to go. High speed for sustained periods is not out of the question and passing on 2 lane road is done... with authority. Jersey drivers like to go slow when your behind them but then race you to 90 when you try and pass. Im 64 but after 30 years in the trucking business I still ride my FL like a kid on a crotch rocket. My question is can you provide a package from S&S with cams and all that you would recommend to give just a bit more uumph without sacrificing reliability. using the pipes and air cleaner I have? I dont have access to a dyno but I believe I can still go online and get maps frome Dyno Jet that should get me close. If after its all one I need a dyno run to get it right Im sure someone is close enough that I can trust. Also do you think at 30,000 the increase performance of a cam upgrade would require other upgrades? Maybe in the rocker box department? So far my list looks like S&S plate and pump. Gears, chains, tensioners. Maybe their cam or any other you recommend. S&S adjustable pushrods. A cam bearing puller. And maybe some other things you might recommend. Dont wat to spend a ton of money but I want this engine to last until Im too old to ride it. Slight performance gains would be nice but She runs well enough and I would not trade reliability for performance at this point. If not for the adjusters I would not be opening the engine up at all. She has performed flawlessly. But if I need to I might as well upgrade a bit. Ive seen a lot of guys start having issues as soon as they start spending money on mods... I just want to ride.
Very good video. Thanks for the helpful info. Going thru tge cam plate and pump issue as I type and you've helped me decide to go with S&S. Will be calling you
I bought my '05 FXDWG(Carb'd), with 3,773 miles. Although it is very low miles for the year, would you recommend I inspect the tensioner shoes? Even due to not riding, would you suspect them turning brittle over time. What would you recommend as a replacement? Not planning to really modify the motor. 88 c.i.
I would agree...very low miles to require checking. I have seen some low mileage ones break from being brittle so i hate to tell you, dont worry about it. It's cheap insurance and peace of mind.
Kevin I have been watching all your video's trying to decide what to do with my motor 2021 114 SGS. I just want to thank you for all the great info. I have been sharing some on FB, I hope that's ok.
Thank you Kevin for the great video and great information. I have a 2011 twin cam 110 with 76,000 miles. If you're changing out the complete cam chest should you also spend the extra money and replace the existing cam chains as well? You convinced me to go with the S&S cam chest kit, if I change the cam chains who would you recommend for new cam chains?
Kevin, you talked about the pressure relief valve in the cam plate. Is this device only to prevent a catastrophic failure due to high pressure or is it actually modulating to control the pressure of the oil based on the spring rate and rpm of the engine? I know the terminology can change depending on the group you discuss this with and I am hoping to really understand what function this device is performing.
Thanks for this great video,greetings from Dublin Ireland,my biggest hassles with my 103 fat boy 2015 Was greeting the dealer to align the rear axle ! A nightmare every time they took off the rear wheel ,rubbing noises from the belt drive after driving a few miles ,I ended up have to buy the jack,belt tension tool and doing it myself ,all the best Jim
i love all your learning videos. i own a 103 twin cam 2014 model and like to learn more. I want to bring it to your shop to have S&S cams cam plate oil pump and anything else that goes in there.
Hi Kevin, first of all, thank you for your great videos and explanations. For me as a technician, it is exciting to listen to them and learn new things. I come from Germany and ride a Lowrider ST. I have a few questions for you. 1. what do you think would be the better choice, apart from the price, the Feuling Cam Plate with the Race pump or the S&S Cam Plate and pump? 2. the M8 engine makes such horrible noises, harmonious sounds different, luckily my exhaust is loud otherwise it would be unbearable. Before the lowrider, I rode an Evolution with an S&S Sidewinder 113 cui engine for 10 years, so such engine noises were alien to me. What is the cause of this abnormal noise, it's the same with my mate's bike and what can be done about it effectively. I have only ridden 2500 miles so I think it is an underlying problem with the M8 engine. What I have improved so far: Jekyll&Hide exhaust, S&S Manifold, dyno tuning. Next upgrade is: S&S tappet cuff set, S&S Precision Hydraulic tappet set, S&S Quickee pushrod. What else can help with this ugly noise? FEULING PUMP OIL W/PLT RAC M8 OIL ? S&S ROCKER ARM GUARDIAN KIT M8 ? I would be happy if you have some advice for me, I think other M8 bikers have this noise problem too. Thanks a lot, left hand to greet Andy
I've seen video comparisons from SS, fueling, and HD. The cam plate from HD looks like pot metal compared to the others. HD is particle board. SS and fueling is plywood I just ordered the SS 475c cam chest kit. Reason why is that the SS is the only one that makes an aftermarket chain tensioner for the m8
Love your videos. I have a 2006 TC88, at 48,000 I changed the cam plate to the SE with hydraulic tensioners. The cam bearings on your video surprised me . Can you explain why oil suspended bearings are better than some type of ball or roller bearings? By the way I have 33,000miles since my upgrade and plan to do a looksee on the tensioners this spring.
Another great video Mr. Baxter. 2011 Softail Fatboy here. What about the Feuling Oil systems (Cam plate + Oil pump + lifters) ?? How they compare with the S&S? I have the S&S 583 cams with the Feuling Oil System.
That's all beautiful, but I've gone to Jagg's website and they STILL have nothing for the M8, which, I know, has only been around for like 6 freaking years now... Update: No way to find it on their website for their cooler systems, nor in their "Parts and accessories" page, but I did find parts numbers on their "news" page where they announce being at a product expo in Louisville in January of '23. Why not update the website to reflect? I'll call and see WTF.
You asked for suggestions on subject matter for future videos. I dream to one day, be as comfortable writing tunes for bikes and everything that it entails... ie: compatible hardware, etc. Please show us, thanks!!
Thanks, Kevin! I’m looking to purchase a 2016 Street Glide Special with a 103ci Twin Cam, with just under 4K miles. I will save this video, and will definitely keep you guys in mind for parts! Take care, Eddie Hugs. Philadelphia, Pa.
# 1-i need U phone # i can not find it will stop by on my way to Asheville , NC i a wek or to & will drop bicke off on the way band to. Grand Bay , Alabama& take the bus home so U can start working.
Just found your videos over the weekend and I am totally amazed how well to put together. You do a great job of explaining in detail. I would love to hear some of your reviews on Harley Davison‘s Triglide pros and cons since I’m sure there’s more people like me that forced four years ago to go the way of a trike. Look forward to giving you some business down the road.
Hi there great channel full of really good info. I’m looking at getting a 2018/19 ultra limited 114 m8 with 4000miles are these engines reliable if I replace the oil pump and cam plate? Or would you stick to a 103 HO 2016 twin cam 3000miles. Thanks in advance
If you have a 04 88ci motor the Fueling Hydraulic Cam Tentioner Replacement Kit cost $900.00 Bucks plus if you can't DIY you will be lucky to have someone do it for you for $600/700 Bucks so your in $15/1600. Shame on Harley Davidson they should have done a recall. Mine is at 29,500 miles now so I have to get it done. Hard to come up with that $ on a fixed income. I know Boo hoo for me. Ranman
Its difficult to believe that such basic problems plague such basic engine designs in the 21st century, They might be expected of a very cheap bike from an underdeveloped nation, but of an HD from the USA? The saying "yesterday's technology at tomorrow's prices" seems to be only part of the story. Shabbily put together and screw the buyer also seem to apply. Very sad.
Just discovered your channel...guess better late than never. So much info and knowledge....thank you for putting this together and the hard work you are doing. May i know where your shop is located as i will only order parts from you? Thank you so much
Hey Kevin sure glad you were able to get a camplate and oil pump from S & S. I on the other hand have been waiting for 5 months with absolutely no response from them. Funny that in the US the only storages we are seeing are the things coming from overseas. So I’m wondering why a company claiming Made in the USA is having such a problem with an item made from billet aluminum. I’m done with S & S and buying a Feuling
Fantastic video - as always. I am about to change mine on a 04 King twin cam. I think it would be a bit far to bring it to you as I live in England. Do you do mail order parts to England? Cheers John
What I get out of all the videos of everything built after the Evo....is don't bother buying anything after the Evo since by the time you fix all the factory defects there won't be any stock parts left. Better to build your own instead of chitcanning most of the engine and if you don't wrench sub out the work to Pro Twin Performance. All these weak, marginal factory parts in what hasn't been a "premium" (relative to the competition engine designs) drivetrain since the 1960s is unfortunate.... Meanwhile the quad cam Sportster design solved all the "CNC bean counter engine" design faults decades before they happened and as the late Alan Sputhe proved works fine with very fast custom big twins. Tech changed to reduce PRODUCTION costs because a pile of CNC parts (aluminum is cheap and so is G-code because you only buy the code once!) is less expensive that manual assembly.
As always, great information! Now I have to upgrade my NEW (2019) M8! As soon as I get the money, you will get it!!! I just wish you would relax a little. ALWAYS EXCITED! You are very enthused about this subject and it shows. Its always great to see your videos and I always learn more from you then just about anyone else. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the detailed explanation, Is there a easy way to re-route the oil direction flow to run through the OEM filter first? I tried to locate S&S lifter cuffs and Oil Pump for my M8 on your SHOP and was unable to
Again a very helpful video. In it you caused me to develop a question based on a problem I have been fighting all summer. In the winter of 2021/2022 I pulled my primary off and replaced all of the seals and bearing along with the seals to the transmission on the primary side. They were leaking a little bit after 72,000 miles on my 2005 FLHRCI Road King Classic. While I was at it I did a check on my flywheel run out at both ends which both were at .002" or lower. So since I have HQ-0034-G cams (I talked with you about & purchased them in 2007 at Head Quarters from you) I purchased a S&S camplate & pump (before knowing about your videos & shop) & installed it. Well once I was able to ride it started to leak oil & have traced it to my oil pan gasket. I am on my 5th metal coated gasket (4 Cometic 1 Harley) now with an intake & engine case to oil filler breathers installed. I first torqued in the manual sequence & 108 in-lbs specs on the 1st one. The next one I increased to 120 in-lbs, I even used Permatex gasket sealer on two installs. I am now at 168 in-lbs & got there on the last gasket by doing it in stages from 96, 108, 120, 132, 144, 156 & then 168 in-lbs. This has reduced the leaking but it still is leaking. I have checked the surface for flatness on the case & pan along with replacing the old pan with a newer one that does not have the stupid plastic baffle & springs with the new style that has actual cast in baffles & riveted tray top. Do you think it is possible that the S&S pump & camplate are providing to much oil pressure & causing the oil to be pushed out of the gasket?
Do you recommend building a $3500 Fxsti with 55k or dumping it and moving to something else to piece together with a low budget? Thanks I'm glad I stumbled on your site. Bill from Indiana.
Hi Bill. Great question and a tough one to answer. We have to remember that motorcycles these days, are a hobby. Not an investment....similar to a bass boat and fishing rods. You spend money on it because you enjoy it, not because you believe you will always make a profit on it should you decide to sell it. Also...they are really only worth what someone is willing to pay for them. That said, I guess it depends on how deep you want to get into a build, amd your planned use for it. If you already have an FXST, that's a great bike. A few thousand invested, to build it exactly the way you want....may be the better route.
I'll stick with the Evo. I thought I wanted a new roadglide and got a 22, and traded in my 07 roadglide, I couldn't get used to or comfortable with the weight difference, I took my 22 back in hoping that I could get my 07 back to find out they sold it. They tracked the buyer down, and I did an even trade to get my 07 back. I'll build up the Evo later. The new roadglide is way heavier and sits less comfortably than the 07. Lesson learned...
Very informative. On the S&S oil pump screen: if you have debris from a component failure, won't it plug the screen? Also, with the same S&S oil pump that has 40% more scavaging, couldn't that harm the engine? It's my understanding that Harley engines depend on some of the oil in the sump for lubrication, splash feed to the lower ends.
You forgot one oil hole... When you change out the roller bearing with "timkin" bearing for even rotation on the crankshaft. when you weld up a pressed crankshaft and drill a hole at the 12 O' clock position. ??? More compression, with even rotation? LMK what You think.
Kevin is a very knowledgeable tec speaks extremely well and clear. I have learned more from watching just a few of his videos than I have working next to buddies who I considered top of the game. No offense buddies. Anyway just wanted to put it out there this guy is super at what he does and I'm going to order all my parts throu you Kevin. Keep it real like you do bro and big thanks for all you do.
Your videos are great you deliver the information great I like knowing why ...cause and effect thank you sir will be watching Bob fla.hsve two softails and a dyna wide glide
Thank you for these videos! New Sub, I’m considering getting the Jagg fan assisted oil cooler for my 99 Dyna TC-88 would I need to upgrade the charging system if there is such a thing or am I good to go??
As far as recommending video topics. Put stage packages together including parts you prefer, with differing price points and outputs. I’m in the market to do a stage 2 on my 17 SGS and getting so many different recommendations.
You didn't mention the screaming Eagle brand is it any good it's what I have. Put in when I did 95 inch build thought it was better hopefully you will agree . Great video love your stuff. Thanks
Can not find an s and s oil pump and cam plate for my 2018 road glide 107. Everyones out of stock. any info. Also I want to upgrade the cam to a torque cam for best performance. What do you recommend? 21200 miles on bike. Already had a rear head gasket blow and replaced with a hd gasket.
Hi Kevin, another great video. I have a 2000 Softail 88B Harley, on the stock cam plate for my bike you said that it has ball and roller bearings for the cams, does the S&S cam plate use this type of bearings for the cams?
M8 motors not made solid. I have 16,000 miles on mine and I had a lifter to blow. I ride in the patriot guard and use my bike for funeral , homes for veterans and charity events. Now I have to spend money because of Harley. I live on retirement. Talked to my dealership about the problem and all they can say is. I’ve seen it before. What I don’t understand is if they know there’s a problem why can you make it right and sell a better product than keep selling higher priced bikes with my/us being the testers that have to pay. I don’t know what I’m going to do.
Thanks for the great info. I just Subscribed. What weight oil would you reccomend for a 2010 Superglide? 10W40, or 20W50? The engine is stock. Also, what oil filter do you reccomend? Jagg oil cooler on a stock 96ci? Again... thanks!
Hey Jimmy. Thanks for subscribing. I would definitely run 20W50. Personally I prefer an amsoil synthetic. As for filter, I avoid HD super premium 5. Drag, Twin Power, HiFiltro...had good luck with all those.
I'm looking at buying a 2019 Road Kong Special snd was wondering what a red shift cam S&Soil pump an plate S&S tappets and what ever you sy on push rods vs whar you all would charge to do the build
I'm getting together to put hydraulic cam tentioners in my 06 fatboy twin cam. How much will it cost me for the parts .I'm just wanting the cam chest and oil pump and of course adjustable push rods. Also all else needed breathers in the rocker lids. I'm not taking the rocker boxes off ,bolt cuters too the stock push rods .
So now that it’s 6/23 .... do y’all think Harley has all the kinks worked out of the M8’s? I’m about to take the plunge. Want a touring bike for me and the wife. But don’t wanna buy it twice.
Have Kevin, I have a question, I have a question, I had a s and s camchest package put in my 2000 ultra classic, it had the 509 cams, efi, only picked up about 9 horsepower, does that seem right, had the upgraded intake and exhaust.
With the Jag oil cooler having the tanks either side will it increase the initial oil fill quantity? Loving your stuff. Awesome and so motivational. Your knowledge, method of delivery and personality- awesome. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
@@KevinBaxter Great video Kevin, it has been speculated that Jagg manufacture's the Harley oil coolers. Do you think it is a trademark issue that they would route the oil that way? So that, you would buy Jagg to get the correct routing? Thanks
Kevin,I would love to learn and understand better about HD softail frames, I have an 04 FLSTC and would like to know their strengths and weakness. Your channel has been a tremendous resource.THX Curtis
Increasing the oil pressure does not increase the volume. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump. Unless the pressure relief valve exhausts into the tank and not the sump, it makes no difference as far as the sump pump is concerned. It is moving more volume through the bearings, piston oilers, etc, but it is moving less through the pressure relief valve. I do agree that it isn't needed though.
Thats the plan for this one. Have been collecting parts and having things made like custom pistons, cam, etc. Also have a 3 carb setup...original 54 Corvette Carter YH horizontal carbs. i'll be making a stainless intake and exhaust for it as well. Just been so busy, havent had time to work on it. I'll also be boring to 4.125.....a 327 CID I6. Pretty cool.
Kevin, your channel is a great motivator & thought of going to school to get certified and opening a shop but think just working on my bike instead. It would be great to see vids on doing a step by step replacing various components and dig how thorough you are. I currently have an 03 FLHRCI Classic with 60k miles and time for chain tension or switching to gear driven cam plate using S&S system instead but also thinking might as well upgrade oil cooler to Jag and even going with a bigger engine & Baker Clutch system too. I’d like to do it piece by piece but thought to just go all out. Do you take PayPal? I guess I should check out your website or call. I appreciate your input. Thanks, Carl.
We are a distributor for every company out there. If you call the shop at 6782269651 and ask for Jennifer, she can get you anything you need shipped to your door. I can do paypal payments as well as all credit cards. Thank you!
The cure for these Harley problems is so simple! Buy a decent bike from Japan! I have 80,000 mile i my FJR and there has never been a wrench on it, except to change oil and filter!
Thanks. That's one issue. The second one...when on the side stand, the crankcase oil drains into the cam chest and the stock pump has a near impossible time recovering from the extra build up. Plus...pressure valve bore casting issues, etc. Thanks for the sub.
Very informative! I’m in the process of acquiring the parts to get my 2013 road king back on the road. I would like to have your opinion on the best use of a S&S crank case (mostly concerning the oiling system. Outside vs inside oil lines). You’ve solidified my decision to use the S&S cam plate/ oil pump. The Jag cooler is very interesting, do you have a vid on installation choices? What kind of oil filter would that require, would the stock Harley work with it? I watched another video of yours on the crank/ flywheel assemblies you and another fellow produce, and am interested because I had my stock flywheel trued, balanced and welded... if it gives me any grief I might consider snapping one of those up down the road. If I went with one of those would best choice? (I don’t race and do crazy things anymore since I realized I’m no longer immortal) What about chain final drive conversions, do you have / recommend any in particular (I don’t have a lot of faith in belt drives, besides, I can’t hear them). Thanks for the vid and I’d be interested in a catalog of the parts you stock.
Thanks. Oil lines...either way works fine...but i prefer to machine it for a hoseless install. for your road king, there really is only one install option on the oil cooler which is here protwin.com/fan-assistedlowmount10-rowoilcoolersystem.aspx It will work with stock filter or the washable type like this protwin.com/hyperflowoilfilter.aspx Let's hope they did your stock flywheel right. Using stock wheels is a cost saving option and done right, they work well for your purpose. Good luck! Thanks. We distribute just about everything motorcycle related. It's impossible to put all that up on the website. Most folks just call or email for price and availability when they need something. We would appreciate it if you did.
