Thanks for posting this video. I just had the same issue on my 05 ultra classic and this was very helpful. Just completed it last night in about an hour or so. My master cylinder was nasty and filled with lots of sediment I think because I found the plunger seal had failed and allowed dirt in. I ended up flushing the whole system to be safe.
Make things easier for anyone take an air chuck and blow into where the banjo bolt goes in on the master cylinder and the whole thing comes right out perfectly.
I had a master cylinder kit and front brake switch replaced and still have issues with brake light on. Been working to figure this out forever. Probably kit was defective because lever doesn’t snap back like in your video. Great video! Thanks
Dot 4 is hygroscopic, that means it absorbs moisture it dose not attract as some will say. This is why there are two different boiling points. Dry (no moisture) and wet full saturation. Dot 5 will not absorb moisture this leads to another issue. The moisture still gets in the system. The water is heavier than the fluid, it migrates to the brake calipers and over time can rust, or in cold weather freeze. Either issue is bad. On most Harleys the brakes are not being used to the point of vaporizing the water from heat. In a car yes and then you have no brakes. Important to change out that fluid no matter DOT4 or DOT5, also DOT5.1 is not a better DOT5 its a better DOT3/4. Sorry for getting all techey. Dot 3/4 will also remove paint. DOT5 is not as caustic to paint. You could have just opened the bleeder on the caliper to drain the fluid and then the line would be dry. Carb cleaner may have oils in it brake cleaner does not. Glad you washed it. Here is a little trick, when using a torx and your not sure about size, if you think you have the correct one, try one size up. If it fits use that. They do strip easy. Now you need to do the rear master cylinder. It is in the same shape as the front. And for those that have a hydro clutch do that one too. Every two years is recommended. Yea I know we dont. Mr Yogi, I only comment these things to help. It is in no way a one up thing. I have been turning wrenches for a long time. Just passing on some info that may help in the future.
Thank you for the information. I am doing a rebuild of the front brake system on my 03, RK. I had the brake lines changed awhile back to the chrome "skinny" braided lines. I also changed it from one line hitting a splitter to two separate lines, one for each caliper. My only question Im not sure what DOT fluid is in my system now. I will vacuum out the old fluid and clean it spotless so what flavor DOT should I use as the new stuff...????
@@raymondpontremoli2489 03 would be DOT5 You need to keep the same fluid because it has been absorbed into the rubber parts i.e. the seals in the master and caliper and lining of the brake lines. They will swell if the two types are mixed and that is bad. Go to a Bike shop and get fluid like Bel-Ray, Motul, any name brand. Might seem pricey but it is your brakes. Stay away from a auto parts store chain. There is a difference.
@@chuckhabrack3330 Im changing all the seals in the master cylinder and calipers. Im doing a complete rebuild. I am not however, changing the brake lines. I have no idea what fluid was used after he changed the lines...I called him and he doesn't remember....change the lines..??? really didn't want to do that...
@@raymondpontremoli2489 I will go on a short limb and say it was DOT 5. Harley was only DOT 5 till about 2005-6 then there was a mix of HD using both because Brembo brakes used DOT 4 and the rest used DOT 5. Another but not 100% way to tell is most DOT5 is purple. The other are clear/yellowish. YES some make DOT5 clear but if it is or has a purple look to it its is DOT 5.
Thanks for taking the time to post this video. It was clear and understandable. Now I've got to get up the nerve/confidence to tear into it. I think i'll make sure my experienced friend is in town the day I start.
Nice job and a real good video. I have the same brake light trouble on my Sportster - hoping the rebuild kit fixes it. I esp like how you bled the line. If I understand it correctly as long as the tube stays immersed in the brake fluid you can keep pumping the lever until the bubbles are gone. I always do the old open-pump-close-repeat thing: your way looks easier and quicker. Thanks again for the tips - stuff I would not have remembered to do (or thought of at all). I appreciate it!
Honestly it is really easy with the syringe. I did it last week for my clutch master cylinder and flushed out both front an rear breaks. Just put in half a syringe at a time and suck out half at a time from the reservoir and you will be impressed at how easy it is.
@@YogisCycleService Yeah you were right. I bought a 250ml syringe and it worked great. Pushing fluid up through the caliper and into the m/c makes so much sense and it's easier than the old way. You just go slow and when you're done you know for sure there can't be any air in the brake line. Now I just need to figure out why the new spring didn't fix my brake light the way it fixed yours in the video. The switch is new, the switch housing and brake lever are aligned but still the damn light stays on. Arrgh! But I'll figure it out eventually!
rcanoli99 awesome feedback thank you!! Hmmm. If you take the M/C off and use your finger to depress the button does that work? Maybe eliminate the variables step by step?
@@YogisCycleService Thanks for the thoughts - yes the brake switch works fine by hand. My setup is a bit different than the bike in your video. There's a pushrod that meets the nub on the brake switch and it was slipping up and down so I figured the spring was worn, not applying enough pressure to keep the pushrod aligned. But the new spring went in fine and the action at the lever feels alright. But the light is still stuck on. It might just be the alignment of the switch housing and brake I'll keep fiddling with it, eventually I'll get 'er working right. Thanks again for your advice I appreciate it!
Hey bro - I wanted to let you know how I finally solved the trouble. I installed a banjo pressure switch and bypassed the OEM brake switch completely. Now it works like it should so thank goodness that's over. Just have to tidy up the wires a bit. Thanks for your help!
Hey Yogi, question. Once you install the master brake cylinder on the bars. Do you add dot 5 into reservoir? Than bleed both sides of the front brakes until you see no air and purple coming thru?
Nice video. I have question , how did u get the plunger into the cylinder with out ripping the plunger? I noticed as u were putting the plunger into the cylinder the video skipped as if u stopped it then it restarted and u had it in. I have a kit I bought from a well company but it seems that the plunger was to big for the cylinder and I tore the plunger. The bore is 11/ 16 and the kit says 11/16. Was there something u did to make it fit?
I see why you skipped the seating of the plastic boot part..man that was a bitch to get in there. Sticking brake light is fixed though, thanks for the video!
I just broke piston rubber seal pushing it in to a cylinder. Where can I find new seals without buying whole repair set. Uhh luckily I succeed before in that operation but now my luck ended... Is there any tricks to avoid broken seal_? By the way my MC is 11/16
My man I am sorry to hear that and my only trick is just taking your time and working it in. Send me a email to yogicycleservice@gmail.com with your make and model and the kit info you got and I will see if I can track down a new rubber boot. You may wind up having to get the whole thing again but I will see what I can find.
Thank you for this tutorial. I have a similar situation with my 08 Dyna Street Bob. Before I tear into it, maybe you can help decide whether or not it’s worth rebuilding the cylinder? My front brake will not compress at all. I’m confident the strongest man in the world couldn’t compress it. Although, I loosened the banjo bolt and it compressed. I tried to open and bleed the brake system but I couldn’t get it to bleed. With the banjo bolt closed, the lever just will not compress. I’m at a loss. I don’t think it’s the brake cylinder. Could it be the line or the brake calipers?
That is a great question and honestly youre going to have to test each component to see where the clog is. If its in the master cylinder, the break lines or the caliper itself. If you loosened the bolt and it compressed I imagine the clog is somewhere after the master cylinder and is in either the line or the caliper. I imagine the next step is to disconnect the line from the caliper and see if when compressing the lever if you have pressure at the end of the line.
You’re correct. I went down the line and when I loosened the lower banjo bolt on the caliper, it started flowing. Everything works great. Flushed the lines and she’s good to go!
I thought your supposed to put a piece of cardboard in the brake handle to slightly apply the brake when installing the M/C to clear the brake switch????
Ram Kav hey my man thanks for watching. I haven’t done the clutch side yet but I assume so yes. But a service manual and check it out to be sure. I am probably gonna do a video on flushing that side soon because I think I need to. Stay safe
superb gave me little insight yogi cycles please can you tele like you had mentioned earlier that this is a road king how much did the batwing faring cost in case I decide to fit one on my bike
Please may I have your number I can give w mine want to send some pictures of my bike on what’s app if you are ok with it my number in india +919823022221 Viraf Surty
@@virafsurty5023 Hey my man, I dont really like giving my phone number our but if you google Dragonfly Cycle Concepts you will see where I got my old fairing from. I was very pleased and they have a gallery there so you can see your make and model and all the info you probably need to know
W B it has to go to the dealer if you get air bubbles in a abs system. Apparently from what I understand they need to bleed the lines and hook the abs module up to the computer to clear codes and reset the module. If you look at my channel for a video I have on reverse bleeding I show you how to flush and bleed lines without introducing air into the system and avoid taking it to the dealer. Yes I have reused those washers before but usually repair kits come with new ones and if you have now washers you mind as well use them. Yes those banjo bolt washers I call crush washers.
Hello and thank you for the video.... I have a question regarding my 95 softail custom. Rear brake drags and I've had the caliper rebuilt, cylinder replaced and brake line replaced. Still dragging... Any suggestion?? Thank you for any ideas.
Guillermo Minoso wow well that sounds like you hit it all. There is another RU-vidr called saddle tramp that I know has a video out there on a softail about the same era that had the same issue I believe and he walks through it step by step starting at the master cylinder and working back to the caliper to find where the breakdown is. I would suggest checking out that video and seeing if following those steps helps you isolate the issue. Since you replaced all of the components however you probably need to isolate each area to find the issue short of the brake lever pivot point but I doubt that’s the issue, but then again that’s the only spot maybe you haven’t checked yet.
@@YogisCycleService Thank you for the reply! I was thinking the same thing since a parking lot attendant backed a car into my bike and knocked it over on that side, since then I've had the problem. I'm also going to flush the brake fluid to eliminate that one as well. Thank you again for your interest in helping me.. Best regards!
@Yogi's Cycle Service Thank you... I Didn't want to get confused seeing that the new spring and old look different... My new one I just got in my kit is that of your old spring
My front brake handle bar is super stiff. Cant even squeeze it. I think the fluid is just garbage. I want to flush it but its an ABS Road King. Think I can use this process?
tangled Line hey my man thanks for watching. I have a video out there for flushing that works awesome on abs bikes because it’s a reverse flush. Try that and if that doesn’t work look to the calibers because maybe they need to be cleaned out from brake dust binding up the pistons.
@@tangledline Tangled I have a customer with the same symptom coming over tomorrow for us to fix it weather permitting. If the rain holds off we will be cleaning his calipers and flushing the full system front and back. That said I plan on recording it and putting it up in the next week or so. His issue is on the rear but should be the same process as the front.
@@YogisCycleService looking forward to it. On my end turns out my front line was either collapsed or crapped. Fluid came out of banjo top master...but not out the lines..so procrastinating on the line...lol
@@YogisCycleService i just rebuilt the reservoir and the front brake caliper on my 04 Dyna, but I learned my lesson about the cardboard under the brake lever on a 2011 sportster I had. Great video man, I always loosen the banjo bolt before loosening the mounting screws however. That being said, everyone does things their own way. Great content, think I'm gonna subscribe .
Joseph Woolverton agreed. Sorry this was one of my early videos when I was recording on a cell phone and didn’t have half of the stuff I use today for lighting or cameras.
There is no way I would let this guy work on my bike, he takes things lose in the wrong order and makes the work harder for himself and the work to take longer than what it should as well. Plus he is just redundant.
GaryLordsWayMinistry hey your call my man and I respect that but remember there are more then 1 way to skin a cat and bottom line is the bike was fixed and the customer was happy and at the end of the day that’s all I care about. Is it fixed and is the customer happy.
Pathetic. Using tools on the bike and not covering the tank and fender to protect them - inexcusable on a customer’s bike. Not having a simple syringe? Really? Spilling brake fluid all over trying to mop it up. WTF? This is just too sad to watch.
