Harley LED backlit - CNC carved - Epoxy 

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Thanks, I appreciate that

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I've been using dollar store foam rollers, at .75 each, I consider them disposable. 100 grit to remove all my overspray, 220 grit to clean it up for painting

thank you, I currently use Magic Resin, usually ships by next day

thanks, you can find me on Facebook

@@ralfplewa2472 I actually just flood it from the middle and let gravity do the work. I use a rubber glove to make sure I get everything squeezed into all the nooks and crannies and all the tough spots and let it flow over the edge. I also have a video that shows what I do to accommodate the drips after it is cured

@@bradscustomsigns8585 thanks for your fast reply, i will have a look at the Video you mentioned..

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thanks. Yes that was just a piece of coroplast to keep the air born contaminants off while it dries.

Thanks!@@bradscustomsigns8585

Thanks. Predominantly Rustoleum spray, 3 "light" coats 20 - 30 min apart (don't try to get full coverage in first couple), let dry, light sand and then 1 more coat if needed.

Thanks again. Sand with a 220 grit or higher? Thanks again for the advice.

@@willbarnett205 I like to go at least that or higher, just enough to take off the shine

I've never really gotten into the file selling game, I've had a few people contact me looking for help and they have sent me a little tip in appreciation but that's about as far as I've gone.

@Brad's Custom Signs ok I understand. I will be following you to learn as much as I can and I don't mind paying for some knowledge. I'm now following your Facebook page. Thanks for the awesome videos.

@Brad's Custom Signs I have a question. Do you mind telling me what software you use to create the signs? I have carbide create but wanting upgrade.

@Ricky Curry I'm using carbide create standard version. I may update to pro version or something different in order to start doing full 3d carving, I just haven't found the need for it quite yet

@Brad's Custom Signs ok thanks. I was told I needed the expensive software to do what I see you are doing. Thanks for clearing it up. I will work with what I got.

Thanks. If you find me on Facebook under the same name we can more easily communicate

24" wide piece

made this for a friend

yes, the first layer is basically a filler because I don't use deep pour epoxy, and I use a slightly translucent white to avoid getting too opaque and ensure that the lights will still show through the final pour. This was the last batch of bottles, but I typically look for sales of similar type www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08GP3P7RJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why would you not just use clear on the first half?? Would that not have saved you some white die and prep time? Or is there something I'm missing?

@@MagnumPopeye it's only a small amount of pigment, and I think (and it's possible I'm wrong) it helps with to keep the top colors more opaque.

sorry, I use Carbide Create

I just made sure it was exactly on center of the slab on top cut, and then ensured centered again when flipped

the white was tinted with Ecopoxy liquid pigment, and the Orange was tinted with Rustoleum bright orange paint

I got mine from the US (I'm in Canada), but I'm not sure about their shipping limitations. I would suggest joining a group or 2 on Facebook, and just ask other members that may be in your part of the world

I am currently using Magic Resin Tabletop

LED's are from Amazon www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B085FRXVMC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

not at all, these strips are not very intense

I currently use Magic Resin tabletop, Rust oleum spray paint, and Ecopoxy liquid pigments for most projects. And on this project, I also used the paint as the pigment for the orange

I plot my design in the exact center of the blank, so that after I do the first carve and flip it over, the reversed image is still in the exact center

@@bradscustomsigns8585 that makes sense! Thanks!

@@bradscustomsigns8585 I Think I understand what you are saying, but is there a trick to making sure the sign is positioned correctly when flipping it over? Is it OK if it isn't 100% lined up? Thanks and very cool video!

@@jimyongue6172 well the consistent positioning is the key. I have a preference for a dedicated X/Y location (mine is bottom left), so when I set my zero for X/Y, it is on the same place for every piece I do, never have to reset, the only zero I set is for my Z. So I set my artwork in the exact center of my blank slab, carve my piece, and then when I flip it over, the art is still in the exact center of the blank on the opposite side, so you need only to flip your design to match its location.

@@bradscustomsigns8585 Thanks, I'm new to the CNC machine world. I have some trial and error ahead of me.

currently using Magic Resin

I put the back cover on the riser ring to keep the shape and rigidity while it is being glued. And I install the lights last in the event I have any slips and have to make some modifications.

@@bradscustomsigns8585 Oh, ok. So a back cover, a riser ring and the front piece. Think I got it now. I do like the spend up videos, but I do miss some things. Thanks for the reply. And again, great looking sign.

I'm typically at .15", but I calculate my epoxy for .125, so it's just a hair below surface

@@bradscustomsigns8585 really so it's ok to be under the edge ?

that's how I like to do it, more dimension.

I do not, just sand it clean and install a hanger

@@bradscustomsigns8585 Thank you!!

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