This was always such a unique and interesting design. I always felt like it looked special and different from the rest. The one thing that strikes me as odd is that the eject mechanism seems so fast and clunky. It should have been a slower, soft operation. Great job getting this sucker working again!
@@HifiJelly Lol, same here. I've even been known to wear thick rubber gloves and cover my ears while pressing a power button after I've done repair work. I've yet to have something go bang or give me a shock, but there's slways a first time. 😬🤣
Crazy loading system but nice eye impression . I brought to good operation two Telefunken cassette decks made in 1979 and then made experimental music recordings from radio. Used cheapest maxwell tape available in ninetees - ferro type, almost not used, no noise reduction switched. The result in my system and wtih my speakers is as good that I do not know how I will listen now to my CDs - I like more sopranos from deck.
Good looking deck. Hellishly complex mechanics. Plus: head demagnetitzing/cleaning is next to impossible without dismantling the set: horrible! Nevertheless: you're a hero!
Thanks, for cleaning the heads, the small hatch on the top of the deck that I replaced would probably work, but that's a good point as far as head demagnetizing, since I'm not sure a demagnetizer would fit through and reach the heads.
Love watching repair videos. I have a Sony Elcaset that could benefit from your talent. Would you be willing to take care of it for a reasonable remuneration of course ? Thank you
That resistor is probably used to drop the voltage going to the motor so the action of the drawer or tray mechanism isn't so fast and abrupt. I would put a substitute back in place for sure. The other question is why did the 1st resistor blow in the first place? There must have been a lot of current being pulled by the motor at some fail point for the resistor to smoke like that especially since the motor is only intermittently used. What a nice unit. Great job!
@@HifiJelly I might be tempted to put in a self resetting fuse ( a polyfuse/PTC) in place of, or as well as the resistor. If you don't know the original value for the resistor, then just use a polyfuse.
For the fuse value, measure the current when the motor runs normally. Double it. That should put you in the ballpark for a suitable value to limit the stall current of the motor. As to why the original resistor blew.. That's its job. If the motor binds up, it produces a high stall current, and the resistor blows and protects the motor driver circuitry. The motor stalled when all that spaghetti and spring mallarky let loose.
cool deck man, good job on the repair. i would be a little concerned about that resistor though; usually resistors don't "just blow up," especially such modern ones. high probability that there was a short in there somewhere, or that the motor itself is shorted
@@briangoldberg4439 The stall current of a typical DC motor is several factors higher than the free running current. The resistor might not have been designed to handle it. If this was indeed the case, the failing resistor might have saved the motor from becoming defective (as the insulation of the motor coils can eventually melt due to the excessive current).
@@briangoldberg4439 the mechanism behind this (which solwidotnl enlightened you to) is that the electromagnetic happenings cause the impedance to rise after the initial rush-in that causes the motor to start. They are self regulating in this regard. When they're stalled, there's no electromagnetic flux being dissipated though motion, which causes no change in impedance and... rather quickly a change in physical structure instead :)
éste modelo no lo había visto, yo conocí HARMAN KARDON a partir del TD 4200, y TD 4800, y la última creo, no sé exactamente pero creo que contaba con el Dolby S, aunque reconozco que los dos decks grababan muy bien 👍
Hello from Canada. Thanks for your video. I picked up a hk705 recently and would like to use your video as a guide for belt replacement. What size of belts did you use? Thanks
@@HifiJelly thanks for the info. I spotted that company, but the delivered cost (in CAD) was triple the amount I paid for the deck. I will try to get something local. Thanks for your help.
Hello I recently bought this deck, and I was wondering if you know what the dimensions of the belts are. I'd rather not pay $45 for a belt kit off of ebay lol, and I think I could probably purchase belts with the same dimensions from a different site for cheaper On a separate note you did an amazing job on this repair, and I'll definitely be using it as a reference~
The record level knobs are almost identical to the volume control on Sansui C-77 preamp.. Great work, are you going to repair the eject system at some point?
Thanks! The eject mechanism is working fully; it’s not like a CD player where the eject button will pull the drawer in. The button here is fully mechanical, it simply releases a catch and the drawer gets shot out via springs. It is surprising though since i don’t think it would’ve have taken much to just add a switch to that button that activates the motor and pulls the entire drawer in.
@@HifiJelly Thanks for responding. I feel that I should point out that the mechanism is supposed to open with much less energy . At least, the HK705 that I once owned did.
@@HifiJelly The attached video shows how the mechanism functioned on the deck I once owned ... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IFjgRhoc6Qo.html
@@assistantto007 Okay that’s really good to know thanks! It did seem pretty violent on eject haha, I’ll need to look and see if their is some kind of dampening part broken, or maybe the springs need to be coated in grease. Not sure.
You only needed to study how to open the bottom to get to the belt assembly. You would have saved yourself a lot of time. Now I'm no expert,yet I have had my share of tape deck repairs.
