After the rebuild you’ve done on it that was a great first run From nearly crashing the tool to single pointing a thread brilliant you’ve got to be happy with that well done on the rebuild
Absolutely brilliant to see the progress you have made. What joy to take your first cuts. I hope many, many more will follow. Well done Samuel 👏👏👍😀 Andrew
Good to see you have it running, and it sounds well. Great job on the restoration and 1 thou over 90mm is very manageable. Hope to see you make some great things. Enjoy it.
👍 Marvellous stuff, it’s great to see it finally up and running. I was taught that to get a carbide cutter centred on the work piece, place a cigarette paper between the cutting edge and the work, when it’s central the paper will be straight vertically. I look forward to your future projects. Good work on the restoration.
As an IT person myself, this is exactly the kind of stuff I'm looking forward to when I move house and end up with enough space. Great video, and if I get away with a little minor near-crash like yours when I get there, I'll count myself incredibly lucky! Nice work that man!
Thanks. "enough space" - yes, that's the problem in the UK. I am so jealous of the big workshops those popular American youtube machinists have (Keith Rucker, Adam Booth).
@@samuelfielder Absolutely! For me it's going to involve moving back up north from here in Hampshire to get something with enough space. There's some good inspiration from some folks with limited space out there though - Doubleboost is a Geordie (he's near where I grew up, as it happens), and Blondihacks is Canadian/Californian (but has a small garage), and both make really good use of space. Anyway, I'm now going back through your catalogue to watch the restoration - looking out for anything that might be useful to look out for when buying a lathe! Thanks again for the videos, they're really useful. :)
Well done Samuel, good to see the lathe going after all this time, you are much more patient than I was. I only lasted 2 weeks before I got my lathe going and it was in worse condition. I have to admit your lathe looks 10 times better than mine. Shame about the tool crash, although looks like no damage, if your 3 jaw is that bad might be better to go new, saves all the hassle. Also a rubber matt with holes in it is good on the floor, saves walking swaf everywhere. Now for the fun of the clean up. On the coolant side of things, I have it and for what I do, it's not worth the effort and money, it's messy, smelly and constantly needs stirring up. Just a bottle with a hole in the top or a small spray bottle will do.
I think you're right about coolant, I'm always worried about it sitting there and possibly incubating something nasty like Legionnaires' disease. Plus, when I used coolant on my Warco mill it ran along the vice and flooded the floor. A new chuck would as you say be less hassle. I was wondering if a 6-jaw would be nice, but I see they are very expensive.
The issue with run out over distance isn't as bad as you think. With the jaws lose you can tap the end of the work piece with a soft hammer of brass or copper and knock it into alignment. It's actually quite the common process. You see the jaws of the chuck can grip slightly off center causing the work piece to be bang on at the chuck but wobbly at the end. Just tap it into place and it'll go right as rain. Of course you'll want to drill a center hole for longer turning stock. Good show with the power company getting the 3 phase in finally.
Extremely good progress for your first attempt at turning, cudos for trying cutting threads too, I must admit you scared me somewhat when you didn't stop heading for the chuck! No, that's brilliant Samuel, looking forward to more chip making! cheers, Dave
Well done Samuel, I have been looking forward to your progress on the lathe. I hope that when you do some accuracy test cuts you may find that the bed wear does not impact your hopes as much as you thought it would earlier, good Luck
Brilliant Samuel. Ok, there's a tiny taper but on long parts you can offset that by shifting the tailstock sideways. By the way, where did you get that oiler? I've been trying to find one like that for ages
Don’t worry about indicating the tail stock end on ruff bar, your cut should bring it into line if your bed is set up right if not you have to adjust tha twist in your bed
Have you had a look at the underside of your leadscrew indicator dial? The M300 ones I have seen have different interchangeable gear ratios on the underside.
Howdy, nice to see the Harrison come to life. I'm a hobby machinist that primarily works with computers as well. The one tip I can give you is to lose the suspenders and the long sleeve shirt. Spinny things are always trying to kill you, got to take all the precautions.
So, good progress then! OK a tiny taper, possibly due to the bed wear, but entirely manageable for short parts. Well done Samuel! BTW, where did you obtain that oiler? I've been trying to find one for some time.
Excellent job. You can be justifiably proud. Plenty of fun to be had. Is there a coolant pump on the machine? If not it might benefit, especially if you're cutting a lot of steel. Plus you get to make your workshop smell nice 🙂. I can't tell if you are locking the slides when using autofeed. If not it will help with accuracy because if using the cross slide the headstock can slide around when facing off. I'd advise implementing a polycarbonate cover around the chuck. Those carbide tools can throw red hot swarf around and it doesn't negotiate! Once again very impressive.
Thanks. There is a 3-phase coolant pump which is much bigger than needed (I used a 12V submersible pump in my Warco mill coolant set up and it was more than adequate for flloding the table and the floor). I bought some brass sheet to make a tight-fitting lid for the coolant reservoir, but haven't made it yet. I'm always worried about coolant sitting there and possibly incubating something nasty like Legionnaires' disease. A mist coolant spray might be a safer half-way house. I didn't lock the saddle or top slide when autofeed facing. Will try it. Ah, at last I have a good reason for a chuck guard - to control the flying swarf. To me that's a much better reason than safety. And actually, the lathe came with a polycarbonate one. It is lying somewhere in my garage.
@@samuelfielder exactly! I find you pay most attention and throw the most swarf near the chuck so the gaurd makes sense. I think as long as you pump the coolant around it should be ok. Usually on the slides there is either a small handle with a wedge that locks them, or there is a small bolt. It's well worth it especially when turning something long or parting off.
I just measured the bed way today and felt exactly like you since the figures were almost the same. Your lathe seems to be ok. I worked on a Harrison 400 years ago and made precision valves and it also wasn't perfect. Nearly all lathes have wear, the best machines were the even older ones
@@samuelfielder me too, but I didn't want to pay a lot and I took a chance on this, its a shame when you get everything right but the bed, just stripped the feed gearbox out tonight and found what looked like a tar rubber mat around the Delrin cams, theyd never move, its as if the oil solidified, I haven't tested yet but hoping its moves the dial tomorrow, hoping to save a strip down. I left Screwfix degreaser in for two days the box looks new
great stuff. If you put the left speed control switch halfway between the two right hand lines it will put the spindle into neutral, thus making it easy to turn the chuck by hand to change speed selection. Also you seem to be missing the pin from your toolpost. Try changing the chuck position on the camlocks, may get less runout.
Both the chuck and spindle have an alignment line so I used that, but you're right that trying the other two positions might improve things. However, the runout on the chuck body was much smaller than on the part, so I think the main problem is in the jaws.
That's tremendously impressive, well done! Please consider re-enabling auto sub-titling, aka captions, as on your previous videos, as it helps to follow especially with machine noises in the background.
Hah! I know what your Whatsit is! I've never disabled anything. I just think it takes youtube time to run its very impressive speech recognition software over a newly uploaded video. So, wait a while and subtitles will appear. I use them on Brian Block's videos (ru-vid.com ) because I cannot fathom his amazing accent. He's a real machinist. I did notice the problem with audio against quite a noisy lathe in a confined space. I think the answer is to experiment with a radio lapel mic. The cameras auto white balance is also all over the place - it cannot maintain a steady version of the Harrison beige colour. I should sus out the colour temperature of my LED lighting in there and force the white balance. Apart from that, glad the video was ok.
@@samuelfielder Thanks, looking to buy a few Harrison 300 lathes myself and I already have several quality D1-4 chucks, so it makes things a little easier.
@@samuelfielder The safety shield wont stop chips as they arise from the work piece, a chip deflector is simply a strip of thin metal which sits on top of the tool and you bend it up such that chips deflect back into the guard from it, and not at you....
