From what I understand with FP100c Polaroid film it doesn't keep too well, goes for all Polaroid film evidently. I was going to buy some for my Mamiya RZ67, but did some research. They don't make any Polaroid film for my camera type anymore. So if your lot is good according to others on you tube, use it quick. I hope it works out for you: Your getting a digital back, WOW, did you win the lottery?????? What I'd give for one of them:
I love the RZ67, but just to big for me, I will shoot a pack of the FP100C and see how it goes. I wish i had won the Lottery, just hope my other half does not watch my youtube videos !... ha ha ha
I got into Hasselblad last year with the 2000 FC/M model (focal plane shutter), so I enjoy any videos regarding Hasselblad. Love those big square negatives!
Don't load the roll backwards 😉, black side of the paper faces out. If you're in a rush to reload you can do it backwards and it'll still show the loading arrow like normal.
Yes, absolutely more about Hasselblad. I have been shooting with one for almost a year. Love the system... Anxious to learn more from others. Thanks for sharing.
Well, to be fair, I did, some time ago... when it was still cheap, if that says anything. As I remember it, the pictures came out worse than a Polaroid. But maybe that was to do with expectations from the camera more than anything.
I’m pretty sure you bought Stephen Milner’s one. His review is the next video and it has all the same gear so I’m pretty sure you just bought it off him how funny is that. Two reviews on the identical camera
Hi Rolf, you're 100% right about the film winder and prism viewfinder.. I think Hasselblad could have done a better job with the design. I do not used them much, I like to keep the 503CW compact
yes, I can recommend a few things, a 'PRO shade', USE a hood or this shade ALWAYS, esp. if there is a lot of light, aka summer in Australia, with the 'ev' scale on the lens at 15 and over, GLARE is a real issue {no, or early lens coatings}, so, keep asa low (acros 100 or Kodak Gold 200); and use the m-up mode, and a tripod, as ALL lenses for this camera are Telephotos when converted to 35mm format, so motion blur is an issue, also if in doubt use a LOW aperture setting, to increase depth of field, esp. when shooting people, as this shoots like the fashion images in Harpes Bazaar [shallow dof, with pronounced subject separation], so if you need a deep dof, use f 11/16, macro lenses go down to f 32 so one set at f 11 is WAY further from the diffraction limit than on 35 format lenses\cameras.
yes, at 3:25 you MUST do it slowly, and with care, Not as much of a problem with 500's but on the 200/2000 focal plane bodies, there is NO baffle, it's the SHUTTER itself!, so don't want to ding it!!!
Hello, I have exactly that camera, I just purchased it but the curtain is up and the negative advance wheel does not move, is there something that is blocking it or how can I make it work? The camera is almost new, thank you
beautiful camera. Although in filmtimes i bought an much more ugly looking fuji GSW because i like the rectangular 35mm ratio much more than square formats. i wished hasselblad had made a 6x9 version… And while printing square there are a lot of cut offs because there are no square baryta papers…
i am in the same position with the fuji polaroids, actually got three packs in the freezer, but bought the film for a project with a camera that i dont own anymore. For the ETRSi that i use at the moment, i dont have the back ... So probably i will build some sort of pinhole camera just for the three packs, or buy a cheap back for my etrsi. Its just such a waste to take 645 or 6x6 photos on those big polaroids ...
Amazing looking kit you got there! And definitely do a video shooting some FP100C... Have fun with it 😁 Doesn't it still eventually go bad even in cold storage otherwise?
Hi Hashem, just finished watching your video. Would love to come over and do the meet up, maybe next year :) I have heard the FP100C is not like film when you store it cold, will have to shoot a pack and see what I get.
Would love, if you could make a video how you travel with your cameras. How much equipment do you bring with you, how you pack it for travelling and to what you pay attention to.
Tip, keep the rewind crank, they become very rare nowadays because most people use the winder and then lose the cranck. Also with bashing you can make the camera "non" parallel that can cause focussing issues, though the good thing is, is that hasselblad is also modular inside build, meaning it can be fixed with a repair. Must say I love to see you enthousiast. Also what you can do is, use some positive bw paper inside your polaroid back to make tiny 6x6 photos (Ilford makes that paper) though the iso is 6 ish. Im really interested about the new 50 back. Keep it up!
Beautiful kit and in such great condition, congrats on the find. Other than a good handheld spot meter one of the first accessories I got for my 500c/m setup was the tool to unjam the lens mechanism if you do manage to fit the lens to an uncocked body. Easily available on eBay and safer than a screwdriver which can slip and scratch the back of your lens. I have a 40mm f4 old C Distagon which is a great lens but at 105mm front diameter is a beast and finding filters (and an adapter) is a challenge but worth the effort. For landscape, I mostly use my 50mm f4 CF FLE which is perhaps my workhorse lens. I love the 80mm and 150 mm for studio work. I moved away from Lee ND filters several years ago because of the strong colour cast which although easily rectified when shooting digital, will kill colour film photos. I now use NISI filters with a B60 to 67mm or 72mm thread adapter and they work a treat with no colour cast. I also use the attachable dark slide holder you mentioned which works well, but mine fall off occasionally. The double sided tape they use isn’t that robust. I need to get around to replacing it with something stronger. I collect weird and wonderful film backs too. I have a 16s (4 x 4 super slide) and an A16 (6x4.5 rectangular), but mainly use the A12 backs (square is the Hasselblad trademark after all). My favourite accessory is the spirit level which slides on to the side. Great for landscape photography. I’m very envious of the digital back you have preordered and very keen to hear how you go with it when you get it. Looking forward to following your journey with the Hasselblad.
There is a ring adapter for the Hasselblad bayonet mount. It allows you to use normal filters. Here is one I use. www.adorama.com/fdhringb6067.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg9yolKDH7AIVvCCtBh3NoAqcEAQYAyABEgIb1vD_BwE&
I have the 503 CXi and a 50mm a 120mm and 150mm lenses. Mostly shoot with the prism finder since it is always on a tripod but today I had the waist level finder on and had fun.
I love the shutter sound. Put it on the tripod, focus, then trip the shutter doors open...first, on the right under the winder...then actuate the silver button up front, to actuate the lens leaf shutter. I was happy to see you got the B60 hood. I am designing one in Fusion 360 for a spare. As soon as I perfect it, Ill post it, so if you have a 3D printer you can print it. Cheers.
@@DarrylCarey Nice. It's been a couple of years since I have been up there, Just got myself an F100 to play with. My D750 has the shutter issue so sending it away to get fixed. used to use an F100 back in 2003. looking forward to getting out with it
@@DarrylCarey It's interesting that where the Bronica motor brings the mirror down first, giving an almost instant return, it looks as though the Hassy does it last?
I loved the one I had with tree lesses 50mm 150mm and 80mm It was a camera you had to use. It did nothing for you focusing was an art in its self. But what stunning image you could get from some amazing lenses. I only sold it when a number of lab I used when out of business. I then go into the Nikon Digitals, But now I am back with Hasselblad for most of my studio work and have an amazing collection of both Nikon and Hasselblad kit. Thanks for so great videos.
@@DarrylCarey Not any more I am using the X1D and I love the camera I know most reviewers heat it. But I think they us it as a DSLR and its not. I try and get some stunning results. Thanks for your interesting video I enjoy watching them have fun with your 503CW some of my X1D images www.flickr.com/photos/johnhjic/albums/72157700210729701
Please do share your experiences with the Hasselblad! I used a 1000f and didnt like the weight so I stick to my rolleicord III TLR 6x6 camera, I also have a yashica mat 124g that is in need of shutter service.
I have 500 series lust, but have not shot film in many years. I look forward to living vicariously through your upcoming videos of Hasselblad adventures.
Thanks@@parratt-world . I am thinking about more like a normal wide, maybe a 35mm full frame equivalent so I can use for general purpose and some landscape. I was thinking 60mm would serve me better but I might be wrong as I'm new to square medium format
Enjoyed your video. I have the 503CW and a 203FE. I have winders for both but prefer the hand cranks because of the weight. Same with the prism, though if I'm using a tripod I'll use the prism finder. I'd be curious to hear (hopefully see in a video) what your preferences are. Like everyone else, I hope you get inspired to do a series on your experiences with the Hassie. FWIW, I just uploaded some images to Flickr taken at a car show: secure.flickr.com/photos/79977169@N04/
Darryl Carey Looking forward to the other reviews, very helpful by the way. Thanks to your video I got to know which flash Sir Robin used in one of his recent videos and after your review I immediately ordered one!
Wow, Darryl, that kit is like winning the lottery !!! So complete and in such good condition ! I would love to see more from it (drool, drool..). Love the BHT ending btw.. lol
Just a quick FYI, you can also shoot both film and digital on the Hasselblad H series. I shoot with the H2 and the 16-32 back which is a dream, film backs cost a fortune though!
Nice video, and very useful, thanks Darryl. I’ve recently bought a mint 501C with an 80mm, 60mm and 150mm too. Absolutely loving the medium format analogue experience, and the Hasselblad build quality and user experience are absolutely brilliant.
You LUCKY lucky man! That "kit" is almost unheard of. Must have been a real enthusiast who you got it from. All pristine too. That auto winder is almost impossible to find. Very very jealous. Happy shooting!
I purchased my Hasselblad 500C 6 years ago and I'm just now getting used to seeing the world as a square. I'd love to see how you compose your photos and your ideas on seeing the world through a square viewfinder.
4:00 regarding Hasselblad Bay (B60) hook filters (B50 for old C lenses, B60 for CF lenses)... you can find B60-67mm filter adapters that work great - seamlessly! That is what I use, though unfortunately there are also some "adapters" that do not fit well. You just have to find a good example on ebay and such. The LANGDSEA B60-67 have worked great for me. www.ebay.com/itm/LANGDSEA-B60-60-67mm-Aadapter-Ring-UV-Filter-for-Hasselblad-80-2-8CF-Lens/263631406519
The general rule with consumer cameras-as opposed to specialized industrial, scientific, and military equipment-is the more cameras sold, the more sophisticated the automation features available. Medium-format cameras made since the 1950s are generally less automated than smaller cameras made at the same time, having high image quality as their primary advantage. For example, autofocus became available in consumer 35mm cameras in 1977, but did not reach medium format until the late 1990s, and has never been available in a consumer large format cameras.
I can very highly recommend the 200/2000 series 6x6 analog Hasselblad camera, i very high recommend these lenses Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 which have a very good close distance down to 15x15 object/scene, Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0, Zeiss Tele-Tessar350mm 4.0 and Zeiss 2x Mutar or the later Hasselblad 2x of their own, the 110mm 2.0 gets to a very good 220mm 4.0 with the 2x a very good close up. At last but not least the Hasselblad SWC with the Zeiss Biogon 38mm 4.5
@@DarrylCarey I had a Hasselblad 500 C/M but changed to 2000 FC because the top part of the viewfinder got blackned when using macro and long tele, so to have a camera with longer mirror and lenses with faster aperture :) The 501 CM and 503 CW have also a long mirror, so now I got just the 501 CM and a Zeiss Macro-Planar 120mm 4.0 which was the first lens that I got back in 1983 :) I got that lens in a very strange way which led to that I later made lot of guiding tours for Danish photographers to the Hasselblad factory in Gothenburg/Göteborg in Sweden, a great time !
great video, tip one: ALWAYS check to see if the film winds properly, as sometimes the gearing doesn't always wind the back to the next exposure, AFTER shot 1 you can use the smaller crank on the mag to do it (until the white dot shows), BUT you must get past one, it locks at 1, so just be carefull. tip TWO: the bayonnette system is different, as you said, but C,CF CF-i, CF-E & F lens lineups have a different size, SAME for within each line, ie: 50,80, 110,120,150,180,250,360,500 mm focal lengths, but if you own two from different lines, the bayonette is different, so you need individual filters for each lens, PS: the same is true for the specialised lenses of the Arcbody as this is an LF style, with shutter, apature and these have special 'centre_filters' to even out the exposure as some are so wide angle and their coverage is so big, to allow for tilt/shift without vignetting.
Digital back : I had the 16mp CFV back and it was pretty awful from usability viewpoint. Colour and resolution were excellent, but the crop meant that your 50mm wide angle lens became a standard lens and then there was no wide angle option. - If you like shooting Hasselblad, you like shooting square and that means your 56x56mm film becomes a 33x33mm digital frame. If Hasselblad had changed the orientation to portrait, then you could stitch the CFV frames together, but they’ve ignored the requests for that. - Shooting portraits becomes much more difficult because to get the same picture content, with the same lens, you have to stand much further back from the subject. That makes focusing significantly more difficult. You’re focusing on the face, rather than the eyelashes. The new screen will help a lot, but it’s got a long way to go to match a DSLR, or Leica rangefinder.
I got the 501cm earlier this year. Getting used to the waist level viewfinder took some time, but it's incredible. I've got the PME51 finder, but I still haven't used it. I find the wlf superior thanks to the magnifying glass. It really helps to nail the focus. The PME51 doesn’t offer that and the picture you see is smaller compared to the wlf. I would also recommend you shooting the fuji polaroid with a camera that covers the whole film, so you waste less of it since it so expensive. The Hasselblad would only cover a small square on it. Might be better to shoot slide on the hassy ;)
Beautiful. I remember shooting weddings with a Hasselblad back in 1979. Love that camera and I miss shooting with one. Congratulations, it looks like you have a mint copy and a complete system. I would enjoy seeing videos of you using it.
I‘m sooo curious to see a video with the coming 50mp back. And is it also possible to shoot with a modern flash system by trigger? Or how can it be used?
I'll bet you'll love the sound even better than the looks. When I had my first Hassy (that was a 503CW!) I was just pressing the release knob for a minute straight just for the sound of it. (That's the sound of the auxiliary shutter, not that of the in-lens shutter/diaphragm. The latter's sound is hardly noticeable over the former's.)
If you don't mind sharing, I would be curious what you think that outfit would run about in USD I have the same outfit I bought new the year it first came out as a package deal with the auto winder, along with the polaroid back and a 120 mm portrait lens. I really never used it as I switched to digital with the year for my wedding work.
@@DarrylCarey I am thinking of selling it as I haven't used it since a few months after I bought it, I continued using my 500 C/M and 4x5 for field work. But I would want to sell the whole package, not just the body.
