Hayward SP3400VSP Control Module Repair 

Hi Mark, thanks to you I was able to repair my pump as well. Thank you for sharing the IC part number. There is a quick test you can make to make sure the pump had a similar failure to ours without disassembling everything first: 1) Make sure the power is disconnected and capacitors had time to discharge at least half hour before trying anything testing 2) Unplug the motor from the drive module (The three Red, Blue and Black wires) 3) Using a multi-meter with diode test capability test diode voltage between any two motor connector jacks 4) Make sure to diode test all of the combinations: Red to Blue, Red to Black, Blue to Black, Black to Red, Black to Blue, Blue to Red. Note I am referring to the terminals, not the pump wires. 5) The test may initially show a voltage result (instead of "Over Limit" or "OL") as DC bus capacitors are charged up, make sure the voltage is steady (not charging up) before considering it a positive result. 6) In a working pump you should eventually see Over Limit result for each combination from step 4, this means the IC is most likely good and the problem lies elsewhere. 7) Usually the motor will fail as soon as the first FET is shorted, so only one out of six FETs will be damaged, the diode test involving the terminal with a blown FET will fail when tested relative to the other two terminals, the diode test direction can indicate if it is a upper or lower FET (not that it matters much). In summary if you use a diode test on the drive module motor connection and see something like 0.4V steady from Red to Blue and from Black to Blue, that means that one of the FETs connected to Blue terminal is shorted and the big IC needs to be replaced. I hope it will help diagnose a similar problem without involving access to the rest of the pins and disassembling the pump. Remember to turn off the pump first and let the caps discharge. Stay safe.

Hello Mark, you are the MAN!!!!! You have saved me hundreds of dollars, thank you very much for taking the time to make this video and share it with us. It took me a while to do this but I just followed your instructions, you make it look easy. The most difficult part for me was de-soldering, and then I had to resolder some connections. You should be getting an award for video of the year. THANK YOU!!!!!!!

I watched this video and I did exactly what Mark said and it WORKED! You just saved me a thousand dollars Mark! Thank you! I would have just bought a new pump if I hadn't watched this video because a new drive is about $500 and I'd rather just get a pump that doesn't do this again. With that being said, Mark said parts of disassembly and de-soldering would be hard, but I found it to be VERY hard. I even teach a soldering class. If you are thinking about doing this yourself, a regular soldering iron won't do it. When you go to de-solder the large capacitors, and inductor, the traces that they are connected to are at least a half inch wide because of the large currents going through them. This makes them very hard to heat up enough for to make it possible to de-solder. I ended up using a professional de-soldering station (Pace PRC-2000), the kind that pulls a vacuum while it is heated. I also found that I had to use high quality flux. One trick was after you get most of the solder off the pins, (with high quality flux and desoldering wick and high quality iron), put a little extra solder on the pins that you just removed and then apply the flux again, it helps to get the solder out of the holes completely. This whole job took me about 6 hours. I had to order my part from India (www.utsource.net/) $33 including shipping, because it was the only place that would deliver 3 day. All the rest were from china and would take 20 business days. Hopefully this buys me a year. It was definitely the same part in this video that was broken. Make sure you buy the -2 model (the last 2 characters of IRAMX16UP60B-2) because some of the ones in china don't have -2 which makes the pins straight I believe, but they need to be right angle. One thing Mark didn't mention was how he tested the diodes and the IRAMX chip above to know it was bad. The diode that was bad was within my IRAMX chip and it was the one connected from pin 8 to pin 12. Just put your meter in diode check mode, and put the black lead on pin 8 and the red lead on pin 12. It should say around .4 volts. Mine didn't thus it was broken. When I bought the new part I immediately tested the same pins and it said .4V. There are 5 other diodes in the chip as well as 4 diodes in the rectifier you can test this way. I would say if someone was only going to charge you about 200 to 250 to do this job, you are getting a good deal. Maybe even 300 because it is a lot of work. After that you might as well buy a new drive.

Thank you so much for all that you have done to show us how to repair this pump! It is greatly appreciated. There are a lot of people that have this same problem with this pump. Keep up the good work!!!

Thank you Mark. Your information is so valuable. This problem occurs often with the Hayward motor controller.

I couldn’t thank you enough. I had the exact same issue with mine and your fix took care of the problem. You saved me a ton of money. Thank you thank you for posting this video and showing us how to get it done.

Thanks for the video. I am working on mine now. I had trouble removing the board due to the compound sticking the board to the cast base. To help remove this I used a heat gun and then I was able to remove the board

Thanks! Super video. I have the same stall error on my pump. Just ordered a couple of the IRAMX16UP60B-2 before even taking the drive apart as I'm really confident that it's a 99% likelihood mine has the same issue.

I’m a pool guy in the South Bay and man did this help I’m repairing the salvage motors and reselling them. Thanks

Hi Mark, Great video. I was able to repair mine. So when my elderly neighbor had a problem I offered to fix it. I was extremely careful, It actually came apart with very little effort. Everything went very smooth, it ran for about 3 days then burned the new IC chip. Was able to get another bad one from a pool poolguy. Did the same thing and it too burned up in the same exact spot. The IC chip, Melted and burned a hole in the board. The back of board has some chips that appear to have a thermal compound and need cooling as well. I did clean it off and added some Arctic 5 silver thermal compound to them (as well as the IC Chip.). Was wondering if I we could speak. I have no problem paying for your time. As I am under the gun trying to get this repaired for neighbor. Only other thing I could think of is my solder. I used 60/40 rosin core from radio shack. While on mine I used lead free. Thoughts? I can send you pics.

Thank you!! Was able to repair mine today. Hardest part was separating the board from the resin. $25 part over a $500 new driver board thank you again.

Thank you. Great detail.

When my pump original pump died years ago I found this video and ordered the IRAMX16UP60B chip and a new pump. I left the original pump in place put the new drive on the old pump--I was back in business. Last week, 3.5 year later, the pump threw the same Drive Error Pump Stalled. I figured the new drive failed and placed a warranty request with Hayward. They will supply parts and replace the pump for labor only. Meanwhile, I dig out the old drive and the IC chip and get to work... two evenings and many feet of copper braid later I was able to replace the chip. I put it back on the motor #1 and it ran, but very rough, surging etc. It was able to prime and then started tripping. I then pulled the pump and put my rebuilt drive on the new (never installed) pump #2--it ran flawlessly! So my issue this go round was the original motor itself, not the drive. But I'm very happy that I was able to repair the original drive and put it back in service on the second motor. I ordered a dash-2 version of the chip and will wait and see if I need to repeat the project. Next I'll put Drive #2 back on Pump #2 and see if I still have a warranty case... it will probably run fine. Mark, thank you for the excellent video and troubleshooting. This project was definitely a challenge and I almost freaked when the pins weren't bent the correct way (I straightened and re-bent). One question.. I had a bit of trouble with the two stacked brown blocks that jumpered two of the IC pins on the top of the board. These were not mentioned or shown in the video (since you had already removed the board). Do you have any tips on how to easily reattach these two small brown blocks (resistors?).

Thanks for the video, I’ve just repaired mine this way. Too bad that the drivers are obsolete, had to order some leftovers from China.

Hey Mark, may I ask how you have your pump connected? I'm thinking it was a daily harsh shutdown via my pool controller (controlled via a relay, which quickly cuts off the power causing a daily power spike via a still spinning motor coils). Now I'm running it with the power on all the time, and it is shutting down gradually via a software control and timers). Alas the system was setup by previous pool owners, I did not start looking into the pumps until mine failed and saw your video about how it could be fixed. Ordered parts via digikey by the way, got new IC faster (2 days) and was up and running within a week of discovering the error.

This video helped me fix my drive as described, but now I have a new issue less than a year later. My pump stopped working again, though the problem appeared different. I was next to the pump when it stopped. I was messing with the schedule, during which the motor started and stopped a couple times. When I finally got the settings I wanted, it went to fire up again, but within an instant of trying to start up, failed. The drive now would act like all is fine and that everything is running normally, but that was obviously not the case. After taking it case apart to expose the electrical board, I noticed that around the pin of the large capacitor it was black. Also, the solder connecting it to the board appeared to not be there. A quick check with a multimeter proved that there was no continuity between the pin the board. I cleaned up the area, removed the old solder and reapplied new solder to fix it up. When tested, all appeared to be fine again, so I put it all back together and thought all was well and that maybe this was a fluke. But only a couple months later, the same exact thing happened. At this point I am thinking about fixing it and just letting the pump run 24hr, but just at really low speeds, just so that I can minimize the amount of motor starts. Does anyone know what would cause this problem? I am not an electrical engineer and am not well versed with complex circuits.

So start to disassemble the pump with removing the Lid from input terminal, After removing the lid you can see the three wire that passed through the hole between the module case and front of the pump, disconnect them from module with pulling on those jacks, then use the multi-meter and measure the resistivity between those motor connectors, they should be around 0.5-0.7 Ohm, also measure the resistivity between reach motor connector and chassis they should show open or very high resistivity. After this point we know the motor part of the pump is OK and we proceed with disassembling the control module. Top doing so we have to remove 4 screws in bottom of the module two on each side that they secure the module to the top of the Motor, then we move the whole module a bit to the back and proceed to pushing the three motor connector pass through the small hold one at the time without damaging the wires or jacks, after that we are able to remove the whole control module housing from the pump. Then flip the control housing module upside down with the fin point up and proceed to removing the 4 screws the they secure the two half of the housing together, them use a flat screw between the two upper and lower housing shell to split them a part, they used some sort of the silicon glue for sealing the two piece to prevent of water and moisture getting into the control module be careful after splitting the two part of housing you need to remove the jack that connect the key pad and display to the control module. Now you expose the top part of the control module board, most of the components are install in other side of the board and since I did not have the schematic of the board to check the board I need to get to the other side of the board for part number and way to check them out. If you look around the board sitting in bottom half of the chassis you can see two big caps and two coils and a transformer that are inserted in some sort of the glue in to the chassis, the easiest way to remove the mother board from chassis is to DE solder 18 soldering points ( two points per cap, 8 points for transformer and one of the coil have 2 points and the other coil in transformer side have 4 solder points) that connect above components to the board also we have to remove all screws that secure the motherboard to the chassis 6 of these screws connecting the board to the chassis and 6 other screws connecting the other components install in bottom side of the board to the chassis. Those components using the aluminum chassis as heat sink. In motherboard some of the high voltage soldering point in transformer side cover with some sort of silicon glue for protection, remove silicon glue with pilling them off before removing the solder joints. Also we have to remove the solder joint of two small wire that is coming from Undernet of the mother board through a hole in middle of the board these wire are connect to the some sort of thermo resistor., After removing all above solder joints and screws you need to use heat gun to heat up the glue between the caps and the coils while pull the board slowly away from chassis. After removing the motherboard clean all solder from caps, transformer and coils terminals also clean all holes that those terminals should go back into. Make sure we don’t get misalignment between the terminal of removed components and hole that they came off since we have to put back the entire component after repairing the board. When you looking in the other side of the board you can see couple FETS and Diode Bridget and a big IC chip but all these component install face toward mother board so you cannot see the part number, but you can bend those component enough to be able to read the part number then find the spec sheet and check them out. After finding the spec for the IC chip that was IRAMX16UP60B-2 (19 pins 16 AMP) It was obvious to me this is the weakest part of the design because of high current, high voltage resulting high temperature and stress ( so called driver part of the circuitry). So I start testing six output transistors within IC motor drive and I find a short transistor between one of the three outputs that goes to the motor and ground reel that is enough to disable the pump. If I knew the IC part number I could test it before removing the motherboard from the chassis with access to the IC chip pins from the top of the motherboard. But at the end for IC replacement we have to go through procedure of removing the motherboard from chassis. I did check the mother board for water damage and corrosion and did not find any so I order the IC chip though EBay for $20.

Some notes from my experience with this: * The big capacitors on this board are charged to 350V DC when power is supplied to the pump, and they could potentially hold a deadly charge indefinitely. The board is designed to discharge them within a minute or two of turning power off, but a malfunctioning board could potentially fail to discharge them. Always check the voltage on those capacitors and if necessary discharge them with a resistor before touching anything on the board! * If you are not familiar with soldering, you need to keep the tip of the soldering iron tinned/wet with fresh solder at all times. Once the solder on the tip oxidizes (loses its shine or turns brown), the iron will no longer transfer heat to the joint. If you let it oxidize too far then the tip will lose its tin and no longer accept solder (at which point you must replace the tip). At the high temperatures needed here that can happen relatively quickly, so you will likely need to add fresh solder to the tip frequently (like once a minute). * I don't know what type of solder was originally used on this board, but it is relatively high temperature solder. For de-soldering, I added 60/40 solder (Tin/Lead) to each junction to lower the melting point, which helped some. When re-soldering, I used lead-free SAC305 solder (96.5% Tin, 3% Silver, .5% Copper), which seemed to melt around the same temperature as the original, although it is visually slightly different than the original solder so I don't think that is what they originally used. * Due to the size of the components/joints and the high melting point of the solder, it is rather difficult to fully melt the solder without burning the board. I initially tried using a variety of cheap non-temperature-regulated irons; It might be possible to do this using a ~50W non-temperature-regulated iron in combination with a heat gun set at 400F; However, after burning a few small spots on my board, I gave up and decided to buy a Hakko FX-888D temperature regulated iron, which worked far better. I had to set the iron to 875F to de-solder and re-solder the large joints/components, and 825F to de-solder and re-solder the small joints/components. If you re-solder with lower temperature solder (like 60/40) then you can probably lower this to something like 750F for large joints and 650F for small joints. * To desolder, I used a cheap manual Desoldering Pump to suck the bulk of the solder off of / out of the joint, then used a fluxed desoldering wick to pull the rest out. In some cases (like on most of the chip pins), this was enough to free the component pin from the board so I could simply lift the board off of that pin; In other cases (on most of the larger pins), I had to keep the joint hot in order to lift the board off, which basically meant I had to heat a pin, bend/lift the board slightly around that pin (using significant force), then heat another pin and lift, and slowly work back and forth until the board came off. Once the board was off, I used the desoldering wick to clean up any remaining solder on both the board and pins so that the board could be put back on without heating/wiggling any joints. * My board had a large amount of glue holding the board to the big inductor (next to the big capacitors). It looks to me like they used clear silicone glue/sealant to attach the inductor to the board, then soldered the inductor to the board, then placed the board and inductor on the heatsink, then filled the heatsink with black potting material (Probably also silicone-based? I'm pretty sure it is not epoxy). It sounds like some boards don't have much glue here, but my board had a lot of both the clear and black adhesive holding the board to the inductor (it looked like the black material had splashed up on my board when it was injected). I found it really hard to separate this glue, especially since I had to heat the inductor pins with the soldering iron in order to release the board from the pins at the same time as I pried on the glue. After lots of trial and error (prying, cutting, heating), what worked for me was: Take a thin spackle blade / putty knife, heat the entire surface of the blade with a heat gun at 400F, then slide the blade between the board and inductor and push the blade into/through the glue, then remove the blade before it cools (or else it may stick to the glue and get stuck between the board and inductor). For me, 3-4 cuts like this from different directions was enough to free the board. * After de-soldering everything, you should use isopropyl alcohol to clean/remove all of the flux you added to the board and pins in the process of de-soldering. Any remaining flux could lead to corrosion and/or could absorb moisture and lead to arcing. After re-soldering you should again clean/remove as much flux as possible. I used solder containing "no-clean" flux when re-soldering, which reduces the likelihood of long-term corrosion, although even "no-clean" flux should still be cleaned/removed when possible. * If you add more white heatsink paste between the new chip and the heatsink, be aware that some heatsink paste may be conductive, and this chip operates at 350V, so you must be very careful to ensure that any excess paste does not touch any pins or get too close to the high voltage pins! * My board was covered with a soft conformal coating, and some of the high voltage pins had clear silicone applied over them (likely for corrosion resistance and partial waterproofing). You must remove this from around any pins that you need to de-solder/re-solder, to avoid contaminating the solder. (Both the coating and silicone peel off easily.) However, you should avoid removing it from any areas that you will not be soldering. When reassembling, it would probably be a good idea to apply some sort of coating over all of the high-voltage pins (both to replace any removed coatings, and to cover areas that were not originally covered, such as on the chip being replaced and the large capacitor pins). I used hot glue for this, although that is not reliably safe (as some hot glues are conductive or corrosive, or can absorb moisture and become conductive or corrosive). Clear silicone caulk (or a proper electronics-grade coating) would probably be safer. * To align the new chip with the board, put the new chip's pins in the holes on the board, then place the board on the heatsink and push it all the way down (over all of the desoldered pins), then screw the new chip to the heatsink, then solder the new chip to the board (with the board and chip held in place on the heatsink). After that, you can unscrew the chip from the heatsink and remove the board again to clean the flux, check the heatsink paste, coat the chip pins, etc. * On top of the board, there are two small stacked ceramic capacitors soldered to two of the chip pins. These are soldered across the positive and negative side of the 350V DC power input to the chip (which comes from the big capacitors that you must desolder to remove the board). They are meant to dampen any harmonics caused by the chip intermittently pulling a large current from this input as the chip intermittently powers the motor coils. These stacked capacitors sit very close to the +15V DC power input to the chip (used for the chip's internal logic) and could easily arc to that pin and destroy the chip and board if you re-solder them slightly too close to that pin, so you must be very careful about the placement of those capacitors when you re-solder them to the chip pins. This is another area that should probably be covered with a coating after re-soldering.

Curious what ST Microcontroller they used. I can't make out the micro's part number from any of the photos and it would be nice to know.

Hi Mark, I have the 2.0HP model and getting a heatsink overheat error with the system attempting to cool down and restart indefinitely. Do you have any experience with this. I did notice in the diagnostic menu that the heat sink temperature is all over from -40 deg C to +83 deg C. Have you dealt with this type pf problem, I believe it may be the RTD, do you have any specs on the replacement values or model if I were to open and perform a replacement. Also, when you put the pump back together what did you do to seal the unit back up so you could prevent water from getting back in and causing more damage - thxs

Do you have the part number for the thermistor on the driver board. Location is near the left edge mid way on back side?

Hi Mark. I had to take some time to thank you for the video. I had a slightly different control module than you, but I had the same symptoms. After replacing the big IC, I just fired it up, and it started to run without a problem. Like others mentioned, the most difficult parts of this repair were: - separating the top housing from the base since it's got a silicone sealant (just need to gently pry around the entire gap) - desoldering (Don't try to use a manual solder sucker; splurge with the money you save and get a real desoldering gun...the Aoyue 8800 made the job incredibly easy) Now the question is, how long will this repair last before it dies again? I'm in Arizona, so I'm going to follow your other tip and construct a cover to shade the unit to help with the overheating issue. Again, many thanks Mark! ---John

Bravo!!!!!

Thanks for the video. Was the IC glued in place also or was that just thermal compound/paste under it?

Mark, do u repair these if sending them in to you? If so, how do we PM you or get ur information and cost?

What temperature/wattage soldering iron did you use? I've tried my electronics desoldering tool and 2 other solder irons. Solder is not melting. Is it silver solder? What temp is required? I'll have to get another. Thanks.

Same problem here as tons of other people have. I see no mention of getting rid of the problematic electronics on this thing and reverting back to operation with a timer.I dont want to spend $$ on a "drive" that I have no confidence in longevity. I see no reason not to try. Any thoughts?

I just finished installing the new IC an hour ago and the pump is fixed! Thanks Mark! One interesting thing I observed, Across the mains connector, there is a capacitor and an SMT resistor who's sole purpose seems to power a small LED to indicate mains power is present. The resistor on my board had charred and burnt to a crisp. I ended up just removing it and the rest of the board seems to operate fine without it. Any idea why that 22k resistor would burn up like that?

Hi Mark, Im wondering if I can wire from the breaker or pool timer, directly to the motor and run at full speed until I get the replacement control module?

Hi Mark, Great video! Are you repairing these drives for people? If you are how much would it cost for you to fix it? Mine just stopped with the drive error message. Thanks

Hi Mark, I appreciate all your help and walk through videos. I had a question and could use some help if you could lend some time. I'm currently trying to repair my same motor and drive, its practically new and great shape but had an electrical issue where the power terminal on the circuit board blew off. The board and copper traces look good but slight burnt, I bought a new terminal plug to solder back in and was wondering if this would be okay to do?

Motherboard for Hayward SP3400VSP, water got into motherboard now circuit breaker is popping , can it be save ? I took cover off and did not see a burn

Mine was a 120v model, sent 240v to it and bang. You think its repairable? Would love to see what tool/technique your using to desolder your boards, I've never been able to get solder off and look that good. I have solder sucker and braid and just seem to struggle

Hi, do you have a schematic available for this pump driver? Mine had a few burnt out parts and I can’t tell what they are. Thanks!

Hi Mark, how do you know that this is a 6 pole permanent magnet motor. The permanent magnets will make this a synchronous motor.

I am currently working on a drive unit damaged by lightning surge and found that the Varistor is destroyed. The black disc at 15:51 in front of the orange Relay?. Do you have any pictures showing the markings on that component?

excellent video. Mine had no display, and trip the circuit as soon as I tried to switch on the power. I was able to take it apart after watching the video, and found a burned component (just like strayblackcatsmeow said:The black disc at 15:51 in front of the orange Relay). Not sure whether it is a varistor or thermistor. label says NTC 25 1132? but I am not sure I got the whole thing or only the partial labels.

Where are people buying the IRAMX16UP60B-2 IC from?

Hi Mark; You inspired me to take mine apart; I found a burned thermistor, it is located between the coil and the transformer, It got melted because one of the wires going to the motor was shorted. Do you know where I can get it? It looks like a common thing that goes out It’s NTC 25 1216 that thermistor is or which one to buy? Any one out there that has more information on what or where to get one would be appreciated too. It’s the black one next to the orange component.

Mark and everyone: do you know if the part IRAMX16UP60B can be replaced by the reference IRAMX16UP60B-2? I have been unable to find it. Many thanks

Hi Mark! Where are you located? How much would you charge to fix mine?

I tested the 3 leads against each other coming from the motor and and I am getting zero ohms or zero resistivity. Mark K. cited here we should be reading 0.5-0.7 ohms. By metering zero between all 3 leads against each other, does that then mean my motor is no good? Same original error as in the video - pump stalled. The shaft turns freely but again, zero resistivity between those 3 leads from the motor. Drive problem? motor problem? or Both? Please comment. thanks.

Mark, Looks like I also have the same issue on the same pump. I am in San Diego, do you know anywhere I can get mine repaired?

Exact same problem. What a bitch to repair. Switched to a Pentair pump and hoping it lasts longer.

Ok, my turn. My Hayward SP3400VSP just died with the same "stalled" error. Simple troubleshooting ( 20 minute reboot, shaft spinning just fine, etc...) did not alleviate the problem. What's my next option? Had it for 4 years now so out of warranty. I do not have the tools nor time to fix it myself. Anyone in the LAX area fixing these? Would seem like a pretty good business. My local pool store said "sorry". Haven't called hayward yet - I know they won't help. Advise? thanks and really good video by the way. thanks for posting it.

Mark Will A IRAMX16UP60B-2 Interchange With A IRAMX16UP60A-2

Seems the IC has been discontinued. Any suggestions for a replacement?

Does it need a 10 or 16 amp IC?

On the underside of the board I noticed that there is a capacitor joining two pins together, was it the same for you?

There is a varistor on this board that burned on my unit. Do you know what value it is. I have part of the information. It is NTC 25/12______

I have the same pump. It works fine. But when I push quick clean it stalls. Only if I hold the panel down with my fingers then push quick clean it will work

Mark, about 3 year ago I sent my variable speed drive to you and you were able to repair it and its worked great for the last 3 years. Just yesterday the pump drive controller died again. This time its tripping the breaker with the motor leads disconnected (red, blue, black). I am pretty sure its a small capacitor on the site of the drive circuit board. Are you willing to let me send you a few pics or even a small video of the short when I connect it all (nice white flash on side of circuit board when I connect it) Either I can pay you to tell me the parts (capacitor is fried and can't read the part) or if you prefer I can send it to you again. Please let me know. Also, It doesnt look like you accept private messages. Are you willing to turn that feature back on so I can message you privately? Either that or look back to June 3, 2016 from me and please give me a call. Thank you! - John

If your pump have the same symptom as I describe in video I might be able to repair yours please PM me for cost and condition.

can I send you mine?

OMG! Your kidding me right? 😳

Hi Mark, could you please confirm component R7 (Chip side of PCB)? I believe it is labeled NTC 25 1216. Is it a Thermistor, Inrush Current Limiter, Varistor. Do you have a source for the component?