He Made Us Pour His Concrete Slab 10 Inches Thick! (Waste of MONEY?)

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We were hired by one of our best customers to form, pour, and finish this house slab. The owner wanted to pour the entire slab 10" thick which is a little overkill for a basic house slab.
Was this a waste of money or not? Let me know in the comments.
Personally, I'll do whatever the owner is paying me to do. It's his money and if that's what he wants then that is what he is going to get.
I'm not judging. If you ask me for my opinion, then I'd tell you pouring the slab 10" thick isn't necessary, we've had very good luck pouring exact same slabs 6" thick and just thickening the edges to 10 - 12" thick by about 2' wide.
The slab pour and finish went very good and all is well. We ended up using about 25 extra yards of concrete pouring this thick.
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11 ноя 2021

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Комментарии : 2,9 тыс.

@TimothyFish 2 года назад

Builders always "overkill" their personal houses, but that doesn't make it "wrong." It just makes it the kind of house you want to buy after they are done with it.

@darthkek1953 2 года назад

Modern engineers will tell you the SF Bridge is "overengineered" and when you asked why they say "because it hasn't fallen down yet".

@Andy-im3kj 2 года назад

Sometimes the cobbler's kids do wear shoes lol if you catch my drift.

@warrenpuckett4203 2 года назад

Yep I live in a 70 year old slab house. Short answer the slab moves with the weather. Got a lot of rain this summer. Some of the interior doors would not close. Then a dry spell hit. Now they close.

@davidfechter3635 2 года назад

If this home is being built in a cold weather climate zone then the additional concrete will act as a heat sink. Whatever heat is "created" by their radiant heating system will make the home more comfortable and will pay off by holding the days heat throughout the night..

@j0nnyR00k 2 года назад

I have a tornado bunker

@fastflo1 2 года назад

Concrete is cheap. The guy is a builder he knows what’s up. More concrete is better. Everything now is so cheap and built to a minimum . Nothing wrong with doing things right . That is how I would want mine done . 👍🏻

@nicholashartsock2830 2 года назад

Concrete is cheap, what the hell are you smoking buddy

@meganswindall7839 2 года назад

@@nicholashartsock2830 Concrete

@chrisburke9279 2 года назад

@@nicholashartsock2830 my boss gets it for cheap 10$ a yard

@herberthenri 2 года назад

@@nicholashartsock2830 is somewhat cheap... if you put all the costs in building a house, concret is cheap

@jakej1837 2 года назад

@@nicholashartsock2830 It's all relative. Concrete is cheap relative to labor and many other materials, especially for the strength you get for it. For a regular homeowner working on a much smaller project, it may seem expensive, but if you are building a home from the ground up, it's a pittance compared to what you will be spending on rest of the project. This was probably like 3 truckloads more concrete, so I'm guessing probably around like $3-4k more concrete?

@aeronothis5420 2 года назад

Owned a big house (3.5ksqft) on a float slab that was 6" and there are already foundation issues 20 years into the houses lifespan. Thicker slab and/or extra rebar will increase the lifespan of a house and reduce the cost of future issues. Absolutely worth the extra initial cost to put in the extra crete.

@fastflo1 2 года назад

Great experience. Well said.

@JeanFrancoisDesrosiers 2 года назад

I saw only 3 houses on slab as they are rare in northern Canada. All were severely cracked after a couple of years.

@Blackshuck51 2 года назад

It's only $3,500 extra

@jeremyharsh 2 года назад

This is like saying just add more caulk to the crack. Proper ground prep and control joints will solve most of the issues. Thicker is not always better. Every post tension parking garage I have done the slab is 6" thick.

@fastflo1 2 года назад

@@jeremyharsh Those parking garages have high tension cables.... And specified engineered concrete. In a 6 inch exposed slab. Just a little different than jamming caulk in a crack. Not the greatest analogy....lol

@j.muckafignotti4226 2 года назад

10” is appropriate when the customer asks for it, also, he’s running hydronic heating for his slab. 10” will be a lot more stable than a minimum cheap 6”.

@rogerandjoan4329 Год назад

And don’t forget the body under it all. 10 inches goes a long way towards obscuring GPR.

@j.muckafignotti4226 Год назад

@@rogerandjoan4329 Laughin my ass off! That’s awesome! So noted!😂😂😂

@SoloFantasy 2 года назад

It's definitely not overkill. I have background in structural engineering. It depends on the soil and design of the house, I have seen my architectural friends pouring 12" of foundation. I have personally seen too many houses with foundational problems with typical 6" foundation.

@michaelpflaumer2487 2 года назад

Amen and if you have ever seen an injury caused by a slab breaking under somebodies feet and shattering thier ankles or had to tunnel under somebodies home to do a lift the thinking would change. There, now you have an opinion from the engineer (SoloFantasy). And me a lowly skilled worker that has to repair cheap pours...

@yu-jd5jg 2 года назад

@@michaelpflaumer2487 If the soil underneath is not well compacted, a 10" thick RC slab will not make the foundation any stronger

@LoneTiger 2 года назад

Here in Mexico slab foundations are very rare, have seen them on commercial buildings, while stem wall foundations or granite / concrete footings are more common for homes, may take a bit longer to build, but once built the home isn't moving anywhere, it stays in place. 👍

@thenarrator1984 2 года назад

I have a friend who Made his 24" Lol

@LoneTiger 2 года назад

@@thenarrator1984 Tell your friend that the Cold War already ended, bunkers are so last century... so last millennium, actually. 😁

@MrMNRichardWright 2 года назад

With radiant floor, the 10” slab should provide more thermal mass for heating in winter. Would be interesting to see if impacts heating costs and comfort.

@orcoastgreenman 2 года назад

Major mistake with a radiant floor slab, not to insulate underneath, as the earth below, is an infinite mass, 55 degree, heat sink

@orcoastgreenman 2 года назад

Lol… commented at just before 2 minutes in, and hit the “send” icon, RIGHT as he says “they are going to lay styrofoam…” Insulated, a hydronically heated concrete slab will make an excellent thermal mass. My neighbor has a SIP home with 10” of foam in the walls and roof, that has a hydronically heated slab, that he warms with a wood boiler. Was supposed to be 24” thick, but the cost of concrete went up so much, between the architectural phase and construction, he had to scale back slab depth and fill with more sand before the foam and rebar went down. He would have been able to go a longer period between firings, if he had been able to put in the size of thermal mass he wanted.

@rudddude5294 2 года назад

@@orcoastgreenman there is insulation down.

@orcoastgreenman 2 года назад

@@rudddude5294 - yup... it’s right there in my second comment.

@CDN_Torsten 2 года назад

I think one key benefit of having such a thick slab is that it's thermal mass will allow it to maintain a warm house during power failures for several days.

@sbrazenor2 2 года назад

If he's been a builder long enough, he knows why he wants what he wants. He's obviously got the money to burn on it, so I don't see what it would matter. I usually go with overkill options when I do things, because I know that I'm going to get a level of quality that far exceeds the minimum.

@ChuckHaney 2 года назад

Plus, I think he saved some money on the grade. He also probably knew that less water would equal stronger concrete.

@conanobrien1 2 года назад

In Slovenia, Europe, where I design houses, this wouldn't be enough and layers would be different. 1. We start with dig that is 45-50" below ground level. 2. 20" gravel filling compacted with roller 3. 2-4" concrete without any rebar to which we lay hydro insulation 4. 10" termo insulation that also prevent bigger damage in event of a earthquake 5. 12" reinforced concrete slab (with probably double amount of the rebar used from what I can see you used) 6. once again hydro insulation 7. brick walls 8. 6" systemic termo insulation board with channels for floor heating (much closer to the final layer and more efficient) 9. 4-5" "dry" screed depending on expected load 10 tiles, parquet or whatever you decide to walk on

@memadmax69 2 года назад

It’s his money, it’s his house, and the customer is always right. Personally, If it was my house and I had the money to make it bulletproof, I would do the same thing.

@crazy8sdrums 2 года назад

The customer is not always right. That is a myth that everybody who has customers can see right through. The reality is that the customer is rarely right, but they are the ones that are paying and they usually get what they pay for.

@cyberpleb2472 2 года назад

@@crazy8sdrums I don't think you understand the meaning of this saying.

@crazy8sdrums 2 года назад

@@cyberpleb2472 You are correct. You don't think.

@nonusbusinissus5632 2 года назад

@@cyberpleb2472 Whether the saying is used incorrectly or not, you can perfectly understand from the context what he meant. Its the customer's money so the customer gets what he wants. Its no skin off of your back.

@theseed1066 2 года назад

@@crazy8sdrums That saying was literally created to convey the idea that no matter how wrong the customer is, they're the ones with the money so they're right even when they're wrong.

@swilldenn7160 2 года назад

Most builders know minimum code. Since its his house, he's probably tested the soil and has calculated everything twice, between how much weight is going to be added, plus how much settling the slab is expected to move.

@joecifelli1253 2 года назад

Smart decision by the home owner. The increase in strength and piece of mind for only 20+ yards of concrete is a wise choice.

@adubs. 2 года назад

I've designed radiant systems like that for a living and 10" is a lot more mass to bring up to temp, but once its there it will stay for some time. Also helps to protect the tubing long term because of thermal stress. The thinner slab is more prone to cracking which will put pinhole leaks in that system. Once you start getting leaks, its game over for that loop because you basically have to use glycol, and therefore should not hook it up to the water system for makeup. The only problem I see is those tubes were laid out below the rebar. They need to be closer to the top surface. Ideally 3-4" down. its insulated of course but you're still going to see a ton of back losses.

@paulperano9236 2 года назад

I think it's a simple answer, "If the client wants a 10" slab or a 20" slab then its right." Foundations should be built to become a nightmare for a demolition crew to remove. As Fastflo1 said below, in the long run 'concrete is cheap' so don't be cheap laying your foundations !

@bustersgarage 2 года назад

I did my garden shed 6" minimum thickness. it varied 6 to 7. I said I want the concrete to outlast anything I throw on it. :D The builder said, "most people do 3 to 4 inch slabs" That being said, I didnt go to the local building supply to get my shed kit. Its a proper Scandinavian 70mm wall thickness log cabin . :) it's heavy and sturdy. I wanted to be able to work on a car and even install a lift if I wanted to go that route later without needing to do any piers. I spent 11 yards and it was worth every penny.

@chouseification 2 года назад

plus let's face it - dude may plan on building a Batcave, which may be why he wanted them thick in the first place - so he can carefully excavate under it later. :P

@bustersgarage 2 года назад

@@chouseification +1 for batcave!!

@stevecopper1667 2 года назад

He's buying it he's paying for it now if he was literally building something unsafe and you're like dude that's going to fall on your kids I can understand that who the hell cares how much concrete the man wants

@jameslmorehead 2 года назад

My grandpa poured a slab for his garage/workshop back in the 60's (40'x60' building). He did a 2'x2' grade beam with two additional interior beams in a cross. Those were set with 5/8" rebar every 6 inches both horizontally and vertically. He let those set, then poured a 10" slab on top with the lines to let the slab fracture set above the beams. To this day, that building has not moved. Our soil around here sucks. It's 180'+ of heavy clay with layers of sand. Hydraulic movement is a big problem. We even added a second story to the building back in the 80's. I don't think the contractor's 10" slab is overkill. I bet he won't have problems with it in his lifetime.

@markcundiff1697 2 года назад

A slab with grade beams is appropriate where there is a highly expansive clay substrate. This is referred to as s floating slab as it is intended to move as a unit. Dallas is an area where this is often used because normal slabs and footings will break up due to heave.

@jameslmorehead 2 года назад

@@markcundiff1697 Down here in Houston, we have the same soil. I think bedrock is much deeper here though.

@tippyc2 2 года назад

This house is on a rocky hillside. There's probably not enough clay to worry about, and the weathered bedrock is shallow enough you can see it exposed in the earthwork. Heave is not gonna be an issue here.

@brucetec6597 2 года назад

The only problem is if a pipe under the slab leaks then that's alot of concrete to go through.

@jameslmorehead 2 года назад

@@brucetec6597 The only pipes in the slab are sewage. Fresh water is ran in a crawl space between the first and second floors. The sewage lines only run 4 or 5 feet to get to the edge of the slab.

@techburnsca 2 года назад

You don't gain much by adding 4" more concrete without adding reinforcement. Doing it that thick, might as well double layer your rebars to make it worthwhile thickening your slab. Concrete is very strong under compression but weak under tension, that's why we use reinforcements. Thicker slab does not increase tensile strength that much. I'd rather go 8 inch with double layer reinforcement than 10"with one layer.

@thenarrator1984 2 года назад

More bar would have helped.. But the concrete absolutely has its own strength.... This isn't a wall where the bar holds it structurally.... The only problem is shifting under the pad ôr weight on top. I highly doubt bar would have been necessary.

@krlenjuska 2 года назад

Same as me. We always go with 8 inch with double rebars. You cant compare double rebars with single. But of course preparation of the ground under is most important part. You can pour whatever you want if you have bad job under.

@thenarrator1984 2 года назад

@@krlenjuska technically what do you consider a job under? Becuase if you think putting gravel and packing it is the best you're 100% wrong. Especially for anywhere that freezes. The best is finding naturally. Compaction layer that contains no organize and going from there. It's why people use foundations not just slabs

@techburnsca 2 года назад

@@thenarrator1984 Yes, adding bars would've been overkill, but thickening the concrete without adding bars isn't much better either. It does improve compressive strength but tensile strength is only increased by about 4% over a 6" slab.

@tightbhole420 2 года назад

On the other hand a thicker slab reduces compressive deformation effectively raising tensile strength...

@amead78 2 года назад

I’ve always been fascinated with watching a house getting built from beginning to end. You only get one chance to lay the foundation. Might as well do it so you’re happy.

@ritste1654 2 года назад

With radiant floor heating, the thicker concrete will hold more heat so the system won't have to cycle as much. He can probably schedule the floor heat to come on when he is getting the cheapest power. Not sure if this is the reason, but would be a good one.

@mriguy3202 2 года назад

A typical slab has literally tons of heat storage capacity, and the 'downside' of that heat is that it does not respond fast enough to heat up the house when needed. There is no need for more heat storage, not that there is literally zero benefit but the drawbacks are also a factor.

@zacharybelford3771 2 года назад

this is it. Factor in the cost of high end in-slab heat + loss of efficiency from a thin pad in colder climates... pays itself off in probably less than 5y.

@MalleusDei275 2 года назад

Yes, this will help with the termal mass, It will help provide a constant temperature in the home year around

@mikeiver 2 года назад

I troubleshoot and repaired a heating system that worked by heating up a large mass of thermal bricks over night and regulated output from the units by controlling dampers based in the outside and inside temps. This is a bit different but if som intelligence could be built in I suspect that it could enjoy some of the same benefits of heating when rates were cheaper. But this will be a boiler system and as such rates are not a concern.

@jasonji1900 2 года назад

That’s a really good thought. If he’s heating the working fluid electrically, doing so at night preferentially makes a lot of sense. Most don’t use AC here (portland OR) because it isn’t useful but for a week a year tops, and heat is usually natural gas, which is bulk rate supplied, so this didn’t even occur to me.

@albertosa6140 2 года назад

The owner is absolutely right. He Did a nice radier, solid foundation for his house. The difference of material equals a long life and healthy structure.

@MikeDayConcrete 2 года назад

I think so too.

@mdmconstruction 2 года назад

Better to be over the top then under minimum

@tippyc2 2 года назад

Except he kneecapped the life of the structure by not having a deeper perimeter. There's gonna be erosion undermining problems in this house's future.

@MarkB-vp9ki 2 года назад

There's still alot of good contractors out there but I'll tell you... you guys really layed that slab out like professionals...great job

@matthewwatkins6616 2 года назад

I did a 12" thick slab in Ontario Canada and it was excellent. The slab really held the heat, and also provided cooling in the summer. My shop is done the same way. It's even more noticeable in the shop due to the fact that it's only occasionally heated.

@brandenperez694 2 года назад

Yes, i was thinking it would hold heat longer

@jari2018 2 года назад

just what i thought here

@gregorymoats4007 2 года назад

Yes. Thermal mass

@brandon13774 2 года назад

not only that but if the guy is installing a hoist/lift for his vehicles then the concrete needs to be a minimum of 10in thick to be safe

@mwolrich 2 года назад

He has radiant heat, that’s why he wanted a 10” slab, that will be a very large mass to cool down, so the house’s temperature will be much more stable, and take a lot longer to change as well. My basement slab is 4”-5” thick and has a 15 mil vapor barrier above dual layers of R10 solid foam insulation, so it’s independent of the earth temperature and also mostly vapor proof. Garage slab is similar, only 1 layer of R10 foam, but the same 15mil heavy vapor barrier

@MitchOfCanada 2 года назад

hes screwed with the pipe at the bottom it should have been 2 inches from the top. that thick of a pad should of been two layers of rebar at 3" off bottom 3" off top.

@burnhamrobertp 2 года назад

@@MitchOfCanada Yeah this is what I was thinking. That radiant heating is crazy deep in the concrete.

@MitchOfCanada 2 года назад

@@burnhamrobertp the reaction time from heating will way outway the benefits. -10c to a -35c day you will not be able to get the heat from pipes to the room in time for it to work. And once it does, You can have the pipes off for a week and still increase in temperature. Quick fix will to be put down another layer of heating pipe ontop of the slab and do 1.5-2" Self Leveling slurry on top and start again.

@wingmanbomer 2 года назад

This seems like a legit reason. You're not wrong.

@noneofyourbusiness6749 2 года назад

@@burnhamrobertp I've never done a double mat under 12" thick. 30 year ironworker

@hedge685 2 года назад

One advantage is the huge thermal mass of that slab...once it gets up to temp it's going to stay there for a long time!!

@thelampstands8181 2 года назад

I built a home in northern Wisconsin with 36" piers under a 12" monoslab. Works as a heat sink. Passive solar. Its pretty sweet.

@Tacompton425 2 года назад

Was thinking same thing.

@joshuasmith1215 2 года назад

That's the first thing I thought

@jayb8476 2 года назад

I just wrote the same thing

@rudybishop9089 2 года назад

and it won’t take longer to warm or chill ? maybe smart concrete ? 10 slab for what a 747 ?

@nightwaves3203 2 года назад

The floating slab I'd think the wedge or foundation footing helps keep water from saturating right under the main slab. But seeing it appears to be on a slope maybe he's more concerned about the house sticking together if the slab gets torque by the slope shifting. Seen that plenty especially on patios with a slope below them. Compacting isn't a miracle.

@bigtxbullion 2 года назад

We did our slab in 2007 and this brings back memories. Pouring concrete is one of the most satisfying things i love watching. Harder by a mile if doing without enough help or tools go down. Some workers just suck at it and get in the way. Great vid

@gtfangel 2 года назад

I can see how the 10" consistent slab saves labor putting in the haunches on a 6" slab. Would there be a $3k labor savings? Like someone else mentioned, there is a lot of thermal mass here, which helps in temperature moderation

@MikeDayConcrete 2 года назад

It was probably a wash.

@sparksmcgee6641 2 года назад

@@MikeDayConcrete Then it was worth it for the comfort. I would have done more insulation but I'm in colorado

@nicholasr7987 2 года назад

Plus grading was all machine. In n out.

@godbluffvdgg 2 года назад

Yeah, when it gets cold, it's like a giant hunk of ice...So awesome...Or conversely; when it gets really hot; It' feels like you're in a brick oven...That's awesome, right? wait...

@IAintScaredOfNoGhost 2 года назад

@@godbluffvdgg no... instead of house that quickly changes temperature from warmer to cooler with the day/night cycle, you have a giant block of concrete that keeps the temperature. The radiant heat/cooling per season does the rest. It makes for very comfortable floors, always radiating heat in the winter or absorbing heat in the summer. In short: Air changes temperature quickly, giving drafts and chills. Radiant heat/cooling is different. It's more stable and comfortable.

@koriko88 2 года назад

No matter what you're building (literally or figuratively), the stronger the foundation, the better the results. Spend as much time, money and effort on getting the basics right and you'll be able to weather other problems much more easily!

@ShrekMeBe 2 года назад

Absolutely agree, but to do right a house this size, you'd want foundations, about an yard deep, standards be damned, nothing we build today will last even 70years. As a civilization, we're too poor to build cheap.

@alexshield7532 2 года назад

Brings back teenage memories doeing these slabs for the company of my dad. Hard work, especally twisting the rebar before the pour, but had a sense of accomplishment when its dry and solid and everything comes together.

@deonoon4572 2 года назад

how is tying rebar the hardest part lmao

@alexshield7532 2 года назад

@@deonoon4572 sure, there are harder jobs, but i can only speak about the work i did as a teenager and im not sure its a compitition who had the harder job o.O. And for my teenage self, twisting alone hundreds of rebar together while the sun is pounding you and you see no end in sight was a hard job. Especally because the stupid rebar twisting dodad only worked half of the time or you couldnt reach proper to use it and you had to make the twists by hand.

@richimiller8509 2 года назад

For the concrete and steel placement it's much easier, for all the subs. So therefore the 10" slab is best. I've built in NY and now Florida. In NY we have monolithic slabs, it tapers off on the edges to a thicker "Footing" not so much a "Grade Beam" which is more commonplace in Florida when we build on The water or near the water. Grade Beams will run around the perimeter, but also through the interior of the slab. Also with much more steel then used up North

@shoppe99 2 года назад

As Day said "It's probably a wash" regarding the 10" pour. In a wash situation, I'll take a 10" foundation for strength and thermal mass for the radiant floor heating anyday!

@Prariedog 2 года назад

Considering the overall cost to build .I'd say great idea to run with a 10 inch slab .I'd do the same .Great job guys

@frostycools1315 2 года назад

very bad idea

@hootinouts 2 года назад

You guys are amazing. How you can get that slab so level and great looking is admirable. I would imagine that the thicker slab will be a big plus with the radiant heat. Once the thick slab absorbs the heat, is will act as a reservoir (thermal mass) and give that heat back off slowly and evenly, kind of like the hot water radiators in older houses.

@shawnadams1460 2 года назад

Beautiful pour and well done, this guy new what he wanted and with having the heating on the slab 10" actually sounds very reasonable to me. I was an ironworker for a long time, and every time I have seen people go for additional reinforcement with additional steel it always seemed to work out in their favor, I would assume (yeah i hate that word too) that doing so with your foundation slab would also lead to less problems down the road. Great vid!

@robertmartin4821 2 года назад

Great to see an owner going overkill rather than skimping and cutting corners. You can't go back and fix bad work very easily, especially concrete. Also, the slump, placing and concrete strength are important factors that get missed far too frequently.

@jonnyd8399 2 года назад

i knew a builder who would slump test every truck delivery before letting the driver unload.

@robertmartin4821 2 года назад

@@jonnyd8399 Interesting, he was probably burned once or twice by wet loads. I'll bet the mixer drivers knew better than to leave the plant wet when going to his sites!

@scottkolaya2110 2 года назад

I'd have to calculate out the thermal mass of each, but certainly a 10" slab will give you much more thermal protection of the structure if the power goes out in the winter.

@ldtenenoff 2 года назад

yea my first thoughts as well thermal mass good alot of thermal mass is bettr

@tpike32 2 года назад

It will take longer to heat . And cost more

@thenightlifenj1 2 года назад

@@tpike32 it’ll hold the heat longer when heated and stay cooler longer when it’s hot out. It’s actually better than a thinner slab. May cost more to initially get it up to temp but it’ll stay there much longer than a thinner slab.

@dinosaurcomplaints2359 2 года назад

Nice video! Thanks.

@Valtrach 2 года назад

Great video. Super interesting. Thank you for your time and work.

@gordowg1wg145 2 года назад

His money, his call, your profit - seems like a win-win to me 😎

@gatorbuilt 2 года назад

Charge by the yard, not by the square footage always pays better

@mini2nut67 2 года назад

I would go above and beyond building codes of it were my personal dwelling. I think pouring a 10” is was worth every penny. You have a great team of professional employees under your wing. They made the pour and finishing details look effortless.

@MikeDayConcrete 2 года назад

It is easy working with these guys. Makes work fun!

@dorianleakey 2 года назад

Why is it worth every penny? In what way are they saving money in the furture?

@OfficialSamuelC 2 года назад

@@dorianleakey It’ll retain heat much longer, well proven, and have a nice sturdy and long lasting foundation.

@copperlocks1 2 года назад

@@dorianleakey The slab stays stable. foundation leveling after the fact is $$$$

@loriw2661 2 года назад

This was so interesting to watch! When I was a kid I use to watch my dad build his spec homes during his off time from his construction job, but I never got to see a slab poured. I really enjoyed this video, thank you!!

@dudelfreund 2 года назад

In Germany, foundation plates are mostly about 12 inches thick and have four times as much steel installed . However, they are then usually also loaded by three storey masonry and reinforced concrete ceiling panels.

@BenKlassen1 2 года назад

Good day's work for the crew. Not overkill. Looks like having wide separation between the two rebar mats would give the slab lots of tensile strength to weather any expansion of the subsoils without cracking. It will take a long time to get that slab heated up with that radiant heat, however.

@davidkelly9218 2 года назад

If he is going to be heating the slab itself (having that mass is awesome) and keeping that at a constant temperature and then using a air to air heat pump to make up minor temperature differences then this is what I would do. I have an 8 inch slab in my garage and the thermal mass is great as long as you keep the temp consistent. Even the equipment absorbs heat from the floor so even if the big doors open in the wintertime moving stuff in and out you get that air exchange but you change it for fresh air and it takes no time to heat up again from the floor and equipment.

@glenatwell8115 2 года назад

My first journeyman said "If a customer asks you for something you can do specifically, it's about getting what they ask for. Make them happy and you'll get a satisfied client and food on the table. Win win." Good to see good people working. Hope you have long term success.

@mygoogleaccount2354 2 года назад

The cost difference from 6" to 10" is worth it. Ive always wanted to do a build with a thick slab and have a crawl space under the whole house.

@terot8341 2 года назад

If you want crawl space, you do only support pillars with concrete, whole floor frame with 2"*8-10" wood.

@kastaway2 2 года назад

Spancrete

@beardedroofer 2 года назад

I'm used to being on top of the roof long after the structure is built, so it's good to see someone actually caring about the foundation beforehand. Good job.

@id10t98 2 года назад

Stay safe up there and godspeed!

@XLAMitchell 2 года назад

The concrete is also a thermal storage medium so when it comes to heating and cooling it may be a good payoff. I have not seen the numbers although with the heating pipes in the bottom of 10" instead of 6" the recovery time will be much longer.

@andygammie7394 2 года назад

Yeah, The floor is going to respond super slow, probably take several days. The 6-in slab in my shop probably takes 24 hours to come up a couple degrees. But with radiant slab you shouldn't really be changing the temperature anyway.

@jusrobington 2 года назад

That's my thought. A 10in slab will hold that heat incredible well. I think with the right boiler setup his heating cost would be low.

@MitchOfCanada 2 года назад

should have been 2 inches from top of the slab, Will take a week to get the temperature up on that slab and has a huge chance of overshooting now.

@blazeharding574 2 года назад

@@MitchOfCanada I think the point of the 10 inch slab is to bring the temperature to where you want it and leave it there. The first time he heats it up it is going to take a while, but its not going to need to change after that. Just set it at a temperature and maintain it.

@andygammie7394 2 года назад

@@MitchOfCanada two inches from the top would be ideal, for any slab top is better but hard to do. But if it overshoots I would blame the guy who sets sets up the rest of the system/ controls. For not picking the right equipment for a slow responding system.

@kriskorsmo 2 года назад

I never thought I would’ve enjoyed a 17 minute video on pouring concrete, but dude, that was very cool!

@willmoore8708 2 года назад

He's got the money to spend. From what I've seen so far, he's off on a really cool start. In fact, I bet after it's all done, you'd probably want that house for yourself. I probably would.

@bobkelley8291 2 года назад

Yup you betcha !

@gnusndn301 2 года назад

Wow I love to watch a efficient team work together you guys look like you're one unit. I'm retired now but I've poured some concrete over the years and you make it look much easier than I remember it being. I was actually a carpenter ,finish Carpenter so I didn't do as much concrete in the end years but I still appreciate all the trades that come together to make a nice product. Thanks for the video man.

@johnfitzpatrick3416 2 года назад

Actually Mike, I was thinking if he had radiant heating in the slab it would act as a bigger battery for storing heat to draw on in winter & cool in summer🤔

@MikeDayConcrete 2 года назад

It should John. We'll see in a year.

@SirTorcharite 2 года назад

Idk why RU-vid recommended this but now I know a bit more than I did before about setting foundation. The lingo was the best part. Never heard a couple of those words before.

@weerobot 2 года назад

Cool Team Work...

@leew3084 2 года назад

Mike another fantastic video. It's great to have a craftsman with your experience discuss in detail how you put slabs.

@MikeDayConcrete 2 года назад

Thanks Lee!

@isettech 2 года назад

I know in some buildings instead of a uniform thick pad, the pad is poured in a waffle pattern to get even deeper and shallow overall for a built in beam truss in the casting. The beams can be located to support load bearing walls and cross large spans. With rebar, this thick waffle is conservative in materials and very rigid with less possibility of cracking with settling ground as the truss is rigid and will bridge settling areas without sinking into them. A 4 inch slab on a grid of 14 inch deep beams 6 inches wide is very rigid.

@cspmsmc 2 года назад

You make this job look so EASY. You guys are awesome.

@perineum6 2 года назад

Wow, this was incredible to watch. Thanks for sharing.

@phillipsprangiii3112 2 года назад

Did a 300' x 300' slab in two pours for some guys from Jersey for a grow operation: 10 greenhouses. Heated slab with all the electrics in it for everything but the temp control, 20' wide corridor (that slab was even thicker in order to accommodate the main service line from the transformers) and thickened edges (Haunch, right?)...around a foot thick slab over a full-coverage Styrofoam slab that ended up being 12" thick at the thinnest part of each slope-to-drain greenhouse footprint. We split the pours: two separate pours for the banks of greenhouses with the corridor later on in the project(after the greenhouses were up). We started at 3 a.m. with trucks lined up down the road sometimes six in a row...big overhead pump going nonstop with a crew of 16 guys to place, screed and bull float, four finishers on power trowels...a gatdam circus but it worked...and once the floors reached ambient temperature the heat regulation was a walk in the park. filmed the whole thing just to remind ourselves it actually happened. I think there was an economy of scale to doing it that way vis labor saved in site-prep, placing the Styrofoam and the pour itself...climbing around all the rebar was enough of a challenge without having to deal with grade-changes while we placed all that mud. Great to see you guys working like a well oiled team. Got a few projects here in Oregon...you busy next spring !?

@MikeDayConcrete 2 года назад

Sounds like quite a project Phillip. Thanks for commenting!

@diyschoolofhardknocks2943 2 года назад

Not over kill for two reasons...1. If the homeowner wants it, customer gets it! Also I think you will get better foam coverage while keeping everything the same level instead of any angles. Great job!

@mistermister1072 2 года назад

great crew!

@hamslice839 2 года назад

Radiant uses the concrete as thermal storage, more mass equals more storage so it's going to hold heat for a long time and that system is going to perform excellent. Great work!

@squealer42 2 года назад

I have no clue whether that 10" pour was overkill, but ... it was definitely badass, and a well earned brewski finish for the day's work.

@Thepriest39 2 года назад

I just did my back yard patio and driveway at 5.5". I heard the finishers saying that they have never poured this thick for a patio. I did all of the prep work/forms. I want it to last forever. Can't blame the home owner. Make it last forever and never worry about it.

@majoralpha1015 2 года назад

A 4 inch slab with a solid base and reinforced would last just as long as a 5.5 inch slab .

@majoralpha1015 2 года назад

No matter how thick a slab is it will always crack if it needs to .

@Thepriest39 2 года назад

@@majoralpha1015 I never said it won’t crack did I? My $$ so I get to do what I want.

@majoralpha1015 2 года назад

@@Thepriest39 Jesus dude 😂 I thought I was talking to an adult …. Guess not lol

@Thepriest39 2 года назад

@@majoralpha1015 You can’t argue with a fool. Have a good day.

@madscientistlife 2 года назад

Good work bro

@bigonprivacy2708 Год назад

You and your team does great work!

@generessler6282 2 года назад

I placed concrete on some military projects. We always liked constant thickness slabs because crack control was more reliable. Grade beams tended once in a while to crack in weird ways.

@user-fx4qz8pt3w 2 года назад

I would imagine it will take considerably longer to heat that slab, but it will stay warm longer once it's up to temp. Just replaced my garage slab here in Anchorage Alaska with a heated 4" - 5" slab and loving it! In fact, we're putting a vent and fan in that will direct the garage heat into the house, as we've found that the house heats up nice and quick when we leave the door propped open into the house. Loving the in floor heat!

@MikeDayConcrete 2 года назад

Awesome, sounds good.

@stillstanding123 2 года назад

Im from "over the pond" and admired your team and its work. Everybody will have a preference on their own home. For me the question is how stable is the sub soil, a thick slab will resist long term soil stability issues better, especially in areas which have been farmed or forested in that location.

@edwardmcguire3801 Год назад

Nice job!

@zo2913 2 года назад

Building something really well and over built is always ALWAYS good if you can afford it.

@MikeDayConcrete 2 года назад

It is, yes.

@robertnorris1808 2 года назад

Great job and just watching you guys do the work is amazing. Thanks for sharing this video.

@spiritofwaupaca 2 года назад

I like it. By the time you dig the grade beam, try to foam it up without breaks, properly compact - doing 10” for all had to be nearly a break-even proposition. The added thermal mass cannot hurt.

@jimthomas1466 2 года назад

It is not overkill to pour a thicker slab when you have radiant in floor heat. I noticed the plastic tubing laid over the pig mesh and under the rebar. By heating up a larger mass, it will stay warmer longer. I did a 7" slab in my home I had built in Michigan and the boiler only ran once or maybe twice and day at the most to keep the house at 72 degrees. Having granite, concrete, or stone counter tops also helps retain heat in the building. The Styrofoam under the slab is the key. I think code now is 3" but I have always used 2 layers of 2" staggering the joints. I really love slab homes.

@richardthomas1566 2 года назад

Anytime you pour concrete this thick it requires an additional Matt . The steel is what’s going to give the concrete strength. A single mat 2” from the bottom and another Matt 2” from the top would have been the proper way to pour this .

@luthoriousOG 2 года назад

When I was in construction I was surprised how many contractors would argue with the home owner. If the home owner wants something “overbuilt” then do it. Idk why people want to argue all the time.

@garysmith789 2 года назад

I am a PE with 50 plus years in the heavy civil construction business and I would have to go through the numbers. Lots of variables to deal with. (Frost depth, floor insulation, heating and cooling system, reinforcement structural loading, soil bearing capacity, soil expansive capacity to name a few) As a general rule on a slab this thin it is the labor that rules.

@bg9430 2 года назад

Awesome Job! I'm an Architect from Australia and I have done slabs this thick for residential work often in various areas, hot/cold areas, poor soil conditions/good soil conditions. Overall construction costs - its some of the best money you can spend on a good slab. But the truth of it is; doesn't matter what any of us think, if that's what the customer wanted and at the end of the project costings it can still be on the table at 10inch and within the overall budget, so be it!

@jeffostroff 2 года назад

I saw that you put down the insulation, but it is usually not all that waterproof so I am wondering why we did not see a layer of Visqueen plastic down on the ground before any of the rebars were added. This vapor barrier is important to keep moisture from getting up into the concrete.

@jeff59rt 2 года назад

Now you tell him….

@keahi7646 2 года назад

The vapor barrier of Visqueen also helps keeping moisture from getting to rebar that eventually could rust, expand, and crack the concrete.

@kimobailey2926 2 года назад

I used a new pool liner !

@darthvader5300 2 года назад

@@keahi7646 Why not mixed powdered brick equal to the volume of cement and reduce the sand? The Romans mixed slaked lime and powdered brick and sand (as a filler) together to make a water proof mortar. Cement is 50% limestone powder and 50% clay powder which are mixed and blended and fused-vitrified into clinkers which are then milled into a powder and thus creates cement. So every 1 bag of cement add one half bag of powdered brick (as fine as bleached white wheat flour) to react with the calcium content of the cement once water is added. You Americans are citizens of a superpower nation so I expect that your educational level and quality are of a superpower level too. So how come you need a Russian (using a multi-router re-router to penetrate anonymously into your American internet by secretly using an innocent American PC owner's PC as a conduit-pipeline-channel just to communicate with you Amerikansky from Kazan, Russia) to explaing everything to you? What happened?

@WillyK51 2 года назад

@@darthvader5300 Tavarish, In the US most houses are made of wood, so structural rigidity is not an issue, My mom came from Rostov na Donn to Venezuela in 1948. Here everything is made out of Concrete, Privet moi drug, Sorry about the Russian pronounciation

@curtisprice7133 2 года назад

Good decision to go 10”. The “bones” of the house will be strong. I bet, if and when he sells the house he will get back some of the extra cost.

@cri-brown-sec-channel5578 2 года назад

The customer is always right!

@mikemaben7485 Год назад

Nice job. Floor looks good

@waynemartin6841 2 года назад

In parts of western New South Wales there are areas on the slopes that have a type of black reactive clay. Normal slabs are not thick enough. Expansion and contraction of the clay can lead to slabs and houses cracking. The construction and thickness has to be different. Not saying its the case on your job though.

@davidf6425 2 года назад

More concrete is like more insulation, you will never regret it. Been in business for over 20 years and still feel the same.

@jesusprado6394 2 года назад

Awesome 👍 job!

@chilitoday 2 года назад

Beautiful pour

@rorygreen854 2 года назад

The 10" is good for thermal mass. Also I've found the thicker concrete reduces the size of shrinkage cracks that's desirable if the concrete is to be polished, which is a nice way to go with radiant heat. I wouldn't go more than 5" if the concrete gets covered with sheet goods and carpet but 10" would be nice with radiant and polished concrete.

@melvinmariott8609 2 года назад

Im thinking of doing the same thing on my house. But ill have to have a footing around the outer edge of it for the walls to set on

@mr.wizeguy8995 2 года назад

Thermal mass inside house is bad for comfort. There will be many times too hot and too cold when outside temperature varies a lot. Thermal mass would be only be good if you build like Antarctica or Sahara where all ways be cold or warm. But when outside temperature varies often best solution is to pour thin slab and use more insulation on floor, walls and ceiling.

@rorygreen854 2 года назад

You make a good point, definately worth considering depending on where you live.

@jsboening 2 года назад

So with a 10” slab could you install a car lift anywhere without worrying about hitting the radiant tubing?

@NANDOFFDataRecovery 2 года назад

Mesmerizing video to watch, thanks for sharing.

@thebobloblawshow8832 2 года назад

Nice job. 👍👍

@steveky7829 2 года назад

With the slab 10" and well insulated, it will make a great heat storage for his floor heat system, money well spent.

@ThelAdventure 2 года назад

He also basically gets a raft foundation. If the soils in this area are poor, this is a great idea to manage differential settlement.

@TSGEnt 2 года назад

Beautiful pour guys. Quite excellent. 10" will help when there is a question of soil shrinkage beneith the slab. Future voids can be an issue with 6" but 10" I presume would be better insurance. What do you think of 4foot deep concrete pylons spaced out on a pour like this to help with slab shifting on grade that may have more liquifaction and or shrinkage? I live in central texas and I'm near rivers and lakes and we have the Trinity aquifer beneath and the soils does shift. The biggest issue is when in a time of drought, soil dries and around the grade, the soil will shrink leaving the slab to sag and crack and shift severely unless you keep the soil moistened, and during drought using water like that can be a high cost.

@joeblues2000 2 года назад

Beautiful!

@SirPoofyPants 2 года назад

All comes down to what loads it's taking, the soil conditions, & how it's reinforced. A 6" slab could be fine if it's properly reinforced and detailed for the required loading.

@tpike32 2 года назад

As with most houses. The majority of the weight is on the perimeter and load bearing walls .

@mr.wizeguy8995 2 года назад

6 inch is fine? We always pour slight over 3 inch slab 4 inch maximum on living area when walls are built over own footings and it works well.

@dannoquin7322 2 года назад

Amazing how proficient you all are! With 10” I suspect the internal house temps will not fluctuate much.

@buzzaard7036 2 года назад

Glad you made this video I can see now why I would NOT choose your services!. I commend that you do what he says since he is a long time customer.

@jasonneal1581 2 года назад

Additional rebar or a pre-stressed slab would typically be more effective than just making a slab extra thick. In fact, you can end up having more problems by pouring a thicker slab without enough reinforcement. More concrete can cause more severe cracking from temperature and shrinkage if there's insufficient steel for the amount of concrete being poured (all that heat you talked about in the video). This is why there's a minimum percentage of reinforcement per ACI codes that must be placed in foundations, walls, and reinforced concrete buildings, etc., even if it is well above what is needed for strength requirements. Of course, having proper joints will help limit cracking in on-grade slabs, also. Also, if I'm seeing it correctly, it looks like the welded wire fabric has been pushed down to the bottom of the slab. It's really serving no purpose from a structural standpoint, either in terms of strength or limiting crack width. It's possible that WWF is there only for the heating system, but if it's supposed to be there any other reason, it was a waste of money being at the bottom of the slab. For on-grade slabs, you want the WWF and/or rebar as close to the surface of the slab as possible to maximize the ability of the steel to minimize surface cracks (while maintaining clear cover requirements, of course). You may need steel at the top and bottom for a mat foundation, but it's highly unlikely you would ever run into this in residential construction. As someone else mentioned in the comments, the 10 inches may have more to do with the heating system than just pouring the slab extra thick.